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I want to add a disconnect to make ingress/egress easier. I have several questions;
1. What shaft diamenter is a BMW?
2. What is the best type and why? Splined or Hex? Weld or bolt-on? (I use a Momo wheel)
3. I had seen debate about their technical legality. Are they legal?
4. A good, cheap source?
Thank you,
R
1- Dunno. Others chime in!
2- I prefer the spline, as it makes alignment easier (to get the wheel squre on cneter), and I think the quality units have slightly less slop.
2A- I like the bolt on method, as welding is a legal grey area. (not that anyone should realy care.........)
3- assuming that you're talking about quick releases? Sure, as long as they are considered to be part of the wheel. Thats where the bolt is key, as opposed to welding. But there is some debate on this point, LOL
4- I always put Pegasus in my loop when shopping. Ask for Bob Clark, he's a Honda IT guy, and on the ITAC as well, so he'll know what you're up to.
Call Louis at LTB Motorsport and order a Momo bolt-on adapter.
Buy my brandy-new LTB Motorsport quick-disconnect that I was *gonna* put on the MR-2.
Rob -Quote:
I want to add a disconnect to make ingress/egress easier. I have several questions;
1. What shaft diamenter is a BMW?
2. What is the best type and why? Splined or Hex? Weld or bolt-on? (I use a Momo wheel)
3. I had seen debate about their technical legality. Are they legal?
4. A good, cheap source?
Thank you,
R [/b]
No idea on #1.
#2 I don't know that one type or another is inherently better, but I can tell you I bought one of the $100 splined units and was not at all impressed with the amount of play in it. I've now shimmed, staked, and taped the splines to the point that I have to tap the wheel on with a dead-blow, thus negating the "quick-release" function. In speaking with other racers, and Dave at OG Racing, the only unit that I've heard of that is pretty much free of play is the very expensive Sparco release.
#3 the only debates I've ever heard were about legality of the weld-on units - I don't think there was ever a consensus on that one.
#4, see answer to #2. If you want to try one of the cheaper units LTB Motorsports is where I got mine.
Earl, you've got play with Louis' QR? Mine's dead-solid, no play. the one I put on our two SMs was also dead solid, no play. The one that's been on my NX for 5 years came from Smart Racing and it's still dead solid...
One new one I saw last year was something Matt installed on the MX5 Cup cars. Nice design from Paragon:
http://www.paragon-products.com/prod...qrhub_race.htm
I wouldn't reject splined hubs out of hand. And, I wouldn't weld anything on the steering column...
Greg, I bought mine over 3 years ago; I've noticed within the last year he's offering a "new design quick release...almost no play". I've been tempted to try one of the new ones, but every time I've started to I just tell myself to wait until I have the extra $$$ for the Sparco release. And besides, with the smaller wheel and tilt column I don't absolutely need a QR to get in and out of the car.Quote:
Earl, you've got play with Louis' QR? Mine's dead-solid, no play. the one I put on our two SMs was also dead solid, no play. The one that's been on my NX for 5 years came from Smart Racing and it's still dead solid...
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I've got this one:
Xtreme Performance quick release. It's great. Only goes on one way, includes electrical connections, and absolutely no play.
http://www.xperformance.com/01_store/quickrelease.gif
The store is run by a friend of mine, and his word is good -- he'll really give you a 100% money back guarantee, so no reason not to go for it.
Irregardless of the legality of welded on QR's, if you go that route in all probability you will not be able to remove the steering shaft from the column w/o cutting the spline/hex off and trashing the shaft.
I am looking for a good splined unit that doesn't cost an as much as some suggested here. Who pays $219 for a QR anyway? They must really want to win at all costs. (Greg - ;)).
When I find one I'll reply back. Likewise would be much appreciated.
The route I want to go is to cut the internally splined section out of the stock wheel, weld it to the QR spline and use a tuner-wheel lug nut thru the QR spline to bolt the assebly to the shaft. That way the QR spline is splined to the shaft and I get to use a generic QR. I'd like to take credit for that one but it was Hotshoe's idea. It may or may not work for you depending on the threads on your steering shaft.
I use a SpA QR. The involute spline geometry ensure that you a) can only put the wheel on one way and 2) you have a very large amount of surface area--therefore given the same initial tolerances and materials used the splined unit will last longer.
I am very picky about my steering system's lack of slop. After all, how are you supposed to give/receive accurate input/feedback if you have slop in the wheel?
I have never felt a hex type without some amount of play. Some are much better than others and I recently inspected a car that had a relatively tight hex unit---no brand anywhere on the unit though, so I can't help you there. It had a 360* pull to release ring, was steel and the hex piece on the shaft had a large dimple machined into each facing.
I use LTB Motorsports QR and mine is free of play.
If you want a conventional (weld-on type) splined unit that's quality, try Sweet Mfg.; they make several types and they are......well........sweet! :D
darn gregg,, why did not tell me you had a ltb quick disconnect lol im looking for one and order it yesterday, for my ita miata ....
ok miata has one that bolts on. used it in my itb car,, real good except cramped close to the turn switch housing, and with gloves on makes it a shore sometimes
Who pays $219 for a QR anyway? They must really want to win at all costs. (Greg - ;)).
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That's the blown, injected, Isky cam, Heddman Headers, version with the super cross-mirved gingrods! Improves laptimes 10 seconds a lap at LRP - legality questionable! :D :D :D
I've been using a Longacre hex style QR for years, alittle bit of play, but not bad. And you can adapt it using a tuner lugnut, just like whats discribed in an earlier post. To check these units out, just go to http://www.ioportracing.com, they sell for around $30 and use a single pin release. Look under steering wheel equiptment, not the adapters.
racerb
http://www.sweetmfg.biz/products3.asp?edit_id=52
Great quality, no play and cheaper than its competitors.
I have this puppy on my CRX: http://www.upgrademotoring.com/qwikrelease.htm
No slop and bolt on!
~Brian
Brian, what steering wheel are you using with this? I have a Grant 5-bolt wheel that I really like and want to add a quick release to it.Quote:
I have this puppy on my CRX: http://www.upgrademotoring.com/qwikrelease.htm
No slop and bolt on!
~Brian
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I have a Sparco .
It has six bolt holes.
I would write them and see what they can do....
~Brian
Support who supports racers. Get the one from LTB. Not only will you get a great deal but you'll get a great product. :023:
I love my LTB QR.Quote:
Support who supports racers. Get the one from LTB. Not only will you get a great deal but you'll get a great product. :023:
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Ditto...
Another vote for the LTB unit. Quality product, quality guy.
I personaly would prefer not having one that only goes on one way. My setup often includes asymetric front alignment, and I like to straighten the wheel after arriving on grid.
I decided on this one and installed it last night. Simple bolt on, tight fit with no play. Seems like a decent piece. I was going to get the LTB one, but he didn't have an adapter to fit my wheel.Quote:
I have this puppy on my CRX: http://www.upgrademotoring.com/qwikrelease.htm
No slop and bolt on!
~Brian
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BOT?
Round and free?
Christ Greg, she's got 6 posts. When are you gonna zap her ass!!
I've PM'ed webmaster figuring I'd let him frag her mainly because I'm not sure how and am too lazy to find out.
DOH! I's ain't payin' attention...Quote:
BOT?
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Can't figure out how to zap either, I'll just kill the posts...
(For those of you reading this afterwards, it was a spambot randomly posting... - GA)