how long are they good for before you replace them. i am thinking that mine are 13 years old. thoughts?
thanks rick
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how long are they good for before you replace them. i am thinking that mine are 13 years old. thoughts?
thanks rick
In theory if your lines are SS & Teflon these materials don't really deteriorate. I would however not trust a 13 year mechanical crimp and it's ability to hold pressure of 1000+ psi that you would generate when using your brakes. The cost of these lines; depending on how many you need; can cost less then $100 and certainly less then $200. Any "crash" that may occur if you have a line failure while on track almost always cost you more then the cost of replacement of the lines.
I would feel comfortable using my lines for up to 10 years depending on use. I think that the amount of use the car gets is more important then years. If you race the car 10 times a year this is much more "wear & tear" then someone who only races 2-3 times a year.
Ten years huh? I had someone recently tell me "yearly". I thought that was excessive, but some say that.
Ya.. I've had people tell me to replace them yearly. then I ask how many miles they put on their street car, how much dirt is packed in the wheel wells, and the last time they replaced their brake lines on their tow rig..
"Uhhhhhhhhhhh"
;)
I have had one fail sitting on the grid for a hardship session and missed the race 6 hours from home so it can happen. I am told the reason they can fail is that unlike the stock rubber coated ones grit can get in under the metal and work into the rubber or whatever that is that holds the juice in.
Having had it happen is not enough to make me change them before they fail but it has made it so I carry spares with me so I don’t lose a whole weekend.
I had one pop at the entrance to Rollercoaster at VIR. Fortunately for me I was just about ready to let off the brake following turn-in, so when the pedal went to the floor I only had maybe an excess 5mph or so to loose. If it had let go at the end of the back straight, or the next hard braking zone into T1, the results might have been slightly more carnage-tastic than me just coasting around the rest of the lap and pulling in to stop via e-brake. The failure was right at the braided hose-fitting connection. They were on the car when I bought it; and probably 6 or 7 seasons old, but the previous owner only did 3-4 events a year tops.
There are rubber lines on the car now for the simple reason they are easier to inspect for distress points. And I carry spare lines now too.
heat shrink around the connections can help with this problem, but it's not a cure all. rubber coated braided lines are becoming more popular for "tuner" cars as they tint the rubber, but would likely be a very good overall solution for racers.Quote:
Originally Posted by dickita15
thanks for the advice. new ones are on order.
Not to disagree, but refer to my statement above. 10+ years on lines installed on a street car. How much dirt and how many emergency stops do you think that car has encountered in the life of those lines that are ~50k miles old.Quote:
Originally Posted by dickita15
the only lines I've ever had fail was one that I melted trying to weld something inside the wheel well and the ground clamp contacted the line. I've had a few die of mechanical abrasion because they rubbed inside of a wheel. All of that is 100% my fault.
I'm not saying one should never replace lines, but the failure mode most of the people freak out about is a misnomer in my experience.
In regards to stock lines, I've had several fail over the years due to heat inside the wheel well and/or other internal failures. more of those have had problems than my stainless lines.
I've seen guys changing brakes just leave the calipers hanging from their braided lines. THAT would be more of a concern to me, personally (and could certainly lead to the failure Rob described above)
I can't find the article, but I read once that the two primary failure points are at the connections and where dirt gets under the braid, and wears out the inner hose where you can't see/inspect.
I am ordering them for my new car, and plan on a 5 year replacement cycle. That should do it...
Every 5 years on a street car the SS lines need replaced. OEM rubbers lines last 20 years, go figure.
I have had both Goodridge and Russell SS braided (front) lines fail on a street car after approx. 6 years/100k miles.
Those OEM Rubber replacements from NAPA are what I put back on the CRX.
Pucker factor at 70 mph on the interstate and traffic comes to halt, you jump on the brakes knowing you car will be fine....until you hear that POP and the pedal sinks.
NOT FUN!!!!
The second line kit I bought was vinyl coated to proect the braid from the elements.....didn't help IMHO.
I got some of those, and the LF popped "in battle" on one of my cars (burst the hose) first use. Really scary and lucky not to get somebody killed as it was braking off main straight - must have been a Chinese knockoff? - Vendor wouldn't reply to my inquiries, and not worth getting lawyer over.... Not sure how my driver collected it.. replaced with "old school" non-rubber coated lines from a trusted brand. One issue with regular replacement is, you never know when you get a defective one......Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip42
yeah, unknown quality on the "tuner" crap is certainly a problem. I was speaking more toward the concept of the rubber. good info though, I'm glad the cars survived the line blow (bone and spin').
I've been pushing the NAPA OEM replacements for street car for good reason.
IT racers, you should replace them as needed!
When I was 17, I had a brake line op at the bottom of an exit ramp. I learned the hard way, that the left pedal parking brake was not as effective as I would have liked, and when fully depressed, added some instability to the affair. I got it stopped between a dumpster truck on the right, and a concrete wall on the left. Right mirror needed replacing, but I got away with one.
The other issue with the rubber lines is when they swell internally.
So replace the NAPA units every 5-7 years of racing?
Only $50 IIRC for the front pair.
I was impressed with the hardware from NAPA, looked better than OEM.
Do a " drip test" to verify non swollen inner tubing. Open the bleeder and watch the flow. All bleeders should flow something. The bleeder closest to the MC will flow a lot more usually. But the other 3 should be close.
Most replacement hose failures are related to scuff holes in the hose or over extending.
I've used Goodridge G-stop lines on my autox car for 8 years now
and never had an issue. I currently have an unknown brand on my IT car and have plans on replacing them. Would Russell be considered a trusted brand?
$93 for a full set (4 lines) from Summit Racing seems like a good price.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnW8
I used a set on my street Mustang and never had any issues and I did track the car a few times.
Russell makes good stuff.
the best part about an off the shelf -3AN hose setup is that the fittings generally DON'T go bad, so you can keep one of each length you need and they are cheap, like ~$20-30 max per hose. we run Allstar prefab hoses on the prod car and they've worked great.