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I've recently changed to the plastic float (brass one broke, caused fire, yes fun!) but seem to be having a heck of a time getting the float level set. It's either flooding or starving in connecting turns. Anyone else having this issue with the plastic float? I've probably ajusted up or down 10 times but get the same result.
I've used the 32/36, but never had that particular problem. First question for you is: What is the orientation of the carb to the engine? Float bowl toward the fender, or toward the grill? If it is toward the fender, then the problem is usually starvation in one direction only (when cornering opposite direction to that of the float bowl). Solution is to look for the adapter used on a V6 Capri circa 1970-74, which rotated the Weber 90 degrees.
Aside from that, with past experiences with Webers, I'd look for two areas:
First- Is the float, or linkage rubbing/binding along the walls of the float chamber? Work the motion with the top tilted in the corning attitude.
Second- You might try to taper the lower outside edges of the float so that it rides lower when cornering. Some floats are made that way for Holleys. You might need experimentation in this area. Just an idea.
Your best performance solution might be to return to the brass float, if that was the only solution that worked for you on the track. I know the risks, but the odds of it happening again might be very low. Also, on occasion, the composition material floats become sponges, and engorge with fuel causing the same problem...sink to the bottom of the well.
The usual symptom that preceeds the fire, is a degradation in performance (excessively rich) that you might be able to catch, before fuel spills into the engine compartment.
Hope this helps.
Bill:024:
Bill -
thanks for the tips. I haven't had any issues for years with the weber... Only when I use the plastic float, so I don't think it is a setup issue with the carb itself. I went back to a brass one for a session and the issue went away. But I want to get away from the Brass one since they break (which I've heard 10 times already), just can't seem to find the right float level. Mechanically the new plastic one I have looks like it should operate correctly - Doesn't seem to bind, stick etc.
I raced a Fiesta from 1988-1995 and i also owned a 3 Capris before that and I used the 90 deg. addaptor to bolt on my Weber to the Fiesta manifold. I used the 1974 version but took a mill to it and machined off most of the extra bosses and material that wasn't needed. Then used some epoxy to fill the gaps left and to built a divider inside the addaptor to split the air flow to match the stock Fiesta intake flange. The Capri addaptor is open so you should do something to smooth the airflow into the manifold. Never any fuel starvation in the turns.
As for floats I have used the plastic ones as well as the brass ones. Never had a problem with either. Where are the brass ones breaking? How are you setting the float level?
I
I did have the carb turned 90 a while back, then some guy said he knew how to fix the issue. He did his magic and it's been sitting non-90 for 4 or so years now with no issue... Until I used the plastic float. On my brass type, one of the floats actually came off the cross arm.
How do I set the float? For the first measurement I push the float until it touches the little ball on the needle. The second measurement is when it's just hanging down. And I use the specs that weber recommends for each type of float. Seemed to work great for the brass one, not good for the plastic one.
When i set the float level I place the carb top upside down and adjusted the closing point so that the float was a bit higher then level. That is when the top is right side up the closing point is when the float is level or just below level. Never want to get it past level.
As for the brass float I would guess that the quality control is just not what it used to be. Have you tried to re-sodier the float to the cross bar?
I use to have plenty of carb parts but all I have now is a small box of misc. main jets, idle jets, air correctors, and emulsion tubes. Can't give them away as who uses carb anymore?
I use one on my Chumpcar. It is too small so I am taking it off. It is turned, float to driver side. I had a few issues with starvation one way or the other, so I just raised the plastic float. Now it will perculate flood on a hot shut down. We work around it by shutting of ff the pumps upon pit entry .
It works fine, only not enough air for my 2.0. I am going to a Rochester 2bbl.
I have plenty of parts..
MM
Really? Kind of surprised I've never heard of that. Makes me wonder if you could adapt one for use on the ITC '84-87 Civic/CRX manifold. My 32/36 DGV always made the most power, but I got so sick of dealing with the crappy driveability of it, that I eventually just went to the lower-horsepower-making 34/34 DMTR and it's dual-bowl goodness. Once many years ago I too sent off my DGV to a guy who claimed he could fix the stumbling issues with it, yet I would've been better off just setting fire to my money, cause it didn't help at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by billf
Anyone got an extra one of those Capri adapters laying around? Would be neat to see if I could make it work on the Honda - and give me a reason to blow the dust off my '85 ITC car.
Why not use a 34 DMTR?
I would not rule out dirt. I would go through the carb--disassemble, clean and reconstruct.
Problem solved... I think.
I was measuring wrong for using a gross-jet. Needed to push the ball up until it stops. Just looking at how much fuel sit's in the bowl, seems to be right.