ITS building advice

As we all know, my 95 Honda Civic EX will not be that competitive in ITS, but with the new IT2 being started < http://www.2litre.itgo.com/ >, I can still do very well without running up front!

I some advice:
For the sun roof, do you recommend just rivoting a piece of sheet metal over it or should I spend the time and fill it in?

What suspension should I use that will be fairly inexpensive and be good for my first couple of years of racing?

I will be running my stock fuel tank until I have time to put a cell in. Are there any things that I can improve on with the stock system?

As for the Header, I will mostly be running at Mid-Ohio, Should I run a 4-2-1 or a 4-1?

Can I run a cold air intake system that has a aluminum box w/filter that you mount in the front bumper opening?

Thanks for time, any other info is welcome.
Daniel Beeson
www.beesondesigns.com

Daniel,
I'm in the same boat. Want to go racing but don't have a large pockets to buy the best of everything. Anyway, this is what I did:

Suspension: I decided to run single-adj konis at first. I may not be able to lower the car as much but I least I can get out and start to race. Also, I can always rebuild them (race valved and shorten) later and not throw money away.

Header: Nothing's better than a 4-2-1 DC Sports for the money. I would tend to think that the 4-1 gives you a little more hp but it cost more. I would keep a close watch on Ebay for them.

By my reasoning, I could get on track quicker and start to learn how to drive (race) which is more important that what components I have starting out. And when I become a good enough driver, then I could see the benefits of better components by going from simply running to running up front. ....wishful thinking http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/biggrin.gif

Good Luck!


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Richy Gonzalez
ITA 89 CRX - 2002 Season

[This message has been edited by Richy Gonzalez (edited February 19, 2002).]

Dan, Are you ready to start building the car? We are starting on my Civic this week. We are going to use a panel over the sunroof opening and we are also using the stock tank. I don't know what we are doing with the suspension, but I'll let you know.

Let me know if you need a hand with anything!

We'll be at IRP in May. The Civic should be there, but I'll be running an FP Fiat.

See ya at the track!

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Matt Downing
www.downingracing.com

Make sure that whoever ends up in the Civic registers for his or her regional IT2 Jump Start championship at the IT2 site. It would be a neat opportunity for a renter to have a shot at a regional championship, even if it is a "virtual" one!

The registration form is up and running at www.2litre.itgo.com/register.htm - remember also that we need an IT2 Regional Administrator in each region. Maybe, as charter members (Dan, Matt), you would be interested?

Kirk

I just finished my 94 Honda CIvic for ITA. Here is what I did. Most of my decisions were made at the time of modification. In other words what the rules stated at that time I bought the stuff and did the work.

Suspension== Ground Control coil over conversion kit+Tokico, I asked for custom spring rates when I called GC. I found a deal on Tokico 5 ways.

Exhaust header==DC 4-2-1, the 4-1 starts working at 7k rpm. The 4-2-1 gives more mid range power increase. I notice more power between 4k && 6k. my rev limit is 6500, I'll never hit 7000 rpm, so the 4-1 was out. Your EX stock ecu limites at 7200 rpm if I am right?

Ram air is not allowed. I fab'ed some fiberglass parts to try to keep the hot engine air away from the ait intake filter. I removed all of the factory air intake boxes and resiviors. I run aluminum tubing directly into the engine bay but not ramming it into the air filter. I bought one of the Iceman type after market air intake setups and I bought some insulation to keep the hot engine bay temps from warming the air intake. I Don't know if it helps, I cannot afford dyno runs after each mod.

I searched and searched for advice on removing/disabling the steering wheel lock. Iwas able to remove the lock and keep the factory key switch. Here is what I had to do.
0.disconnect battery
1.Remove stering wheel and airbag.
3.Remove all plastic covers from steering column.
4. The ignition switch and tumbler is held onto the steering column by two bolts that have no head or way to turn. I used a high speed rotary tool (Dremmel) to cut a slot for my flat head crew driver.
5. The turn the bolts and then the assmebly will be detached from the steering column.
6. Then use the high speed rotary tool to cut away the dead bolt.
7. place evrything back and you are done.


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Greg's advice is all good. You can NOT fill in the gap of the sunroof cover. If it is glass take it out and all of the mechanisms the operate it. Use large head pop-rivets to hold down. If the car was availible without sunroof then you can replace the panel of the roof. If it is not glass strip all of the mechanism out and attach the remaining roof panel with its gasket in the opening. I used aluminum strips that were about 3/16 thick. Caulk the gasket inside and out or you will get wet when it rains.