is it worth the money and will it make the life span ot the tire decrease
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is it worth the money and will it make the life span ot the tire decrease
It all depends on the tire? Toyo and Kuhmo @ full tread are good rain tires, but shaved to 4/32" are for the dry. Hoosier's and Goodyear's don't need shaving.
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Tim Linerud
San Francisco Region SCCA
#95 GP Wabbit (Bent)
http://linerud.myvnc.com/racing/index.html
I've ran 205/60-13 Kumho Victoracers and Toyo RA-1s w/o problems. I have a lot of experience with the Toyos and find that shaving the tires is worth at least 2 seconds on most tracks with a low hp ITB type car. The difference may be more with faster cars. In addition, tire consistency is pretty constant with the Toyos, so I was able to fully use the tire until some cord showed. Not sure about the Kumhos, but other tires are often replaced due to heat cycles before they are physically worn out.
[This message has been edited by Joe Craven (edited June 29, 2004).]
The toyos were intended to run in the dry shaved. Trust the engineers who designed them and run them the way they intended. You will go faster and if its hot, you could chunk the tires with full tread in the dry. It's not common like Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I have seen it.
Also, the car will feel MUCH more responsive if on shaved tires, there is much less tread squirm.
Finally, no it doesn't appreciably shorten the life. Heat cycle them once, let em cool, then run them for the rest of the season, rotating occasionally. Save up over the winter and buy new ones (depending on how many races you run a season)
Sometimes shaving can make the tires last longer. Since they generate less heat shaved, they are less likely to chunk. I agree with Joe, shaved vs non shaved good for at least one second.
John Norris
(Toyo Dealer)
Joe,Quote:
Originally posted by Joe Craven:
I have a lot of experience with the Toyos and find that shaving the tires is worth at least 2 seconds on most tracks with a low hp ITB type car. The difference may be more with faster cars.
Do you believe that would be true of a pro7 at Fernley?
I'm trying to find some "missing" time...
Marcus
[This message has been edited by Marcus Miller (edited June 29, 2004).]
Being a cheapskate and knowing that the tires weren't going to be the limiting factor for me this season, I went with full-tread Toyos. They were great in the rain or mixed conditions and I've been moving them around on the car to use them up as evenly as possible.
They just seem to get grippier as they wear and I've never had a problem chunking them - noting that I've yet to run them in really punishing heat. I broiled off the inside edge of the inside front at Roebling but blame that on too much negative camber and a right foot that didn't accommodate the lack of a proper diff. Even at that, it's only down to a couple 32nds.
K
I've never seen a Toyo chunk, blow out, or do anything but work consistently from the day you buy them until the cord starts showing. I'd be interested to hear if anyone has ever successfully chunked a full tread Toyo.
I've been an avid enduro fan in the NASA NorCal region, and other than an experiment with Kumho and Hoosier tires, Toyo RA1s have worked the best given their performance and long life. In the 12 hour enduro races, I've been able to start the race on full tread tires and finish the full 12 hours w/o changing them with my ITB VW GTI. In addition, the same tires last another 6 months as competitive shaved race tires. The 12 hour old tires stick as good or better than new shaved tires. BTW, even new shaved Toyos require about 4 heat cycles before they are at their best. I ran the 25 hour race last year and we started the race again on full tread Toyos. The fronts had to be replaced at about the 16 hour mark but there had been rain off and on.
I should also mention that I've started a 12 hour enduro with 4/32 shaved Toyos. I had to make 2 tire changes, they didn't last 12 hours.
Marcus, to answer your question, yes, shaving them will make you faster. I ran Fernley once, and my estimate based on the track configuration is that a Pro 7 should gain 1 to 2 seconds. I was able to take the S turns at the end of the front straight flat out with shaved tires, probably couldn't do that with full treads.
Thanks,
I was lifting up the bump leading into the 2nd 's', and I was entering with just a quick lift, then back on the gas before turn in.
thanks!
Marcus
I would agree with Joe on the Toyo's. I have run 2 12 hour enduros on full tread Ra1's on a Pro7 car. The first was a 50/50 rain/dry and we ended up with a perfect 4/32 tread tire in the end. The second was a full dry race and the right rear corded. Ok when we came off track the tread was peeling off, probably due to sliding after cording. It was a handfull to drive the last 40 minutes but, we made it.
[This message has been edited by wlfpkrcn (edited July 02, 2004).]