Meaning of "Steering lock removal"

I'd like to hear the concensus on the following:

ITCS says "Steering lock mechanism shall be removed". Now on my car (Volvo 142E), the steering lock mechanism is an intrinsic part of the cast metal ignition switch part that clamps onto the column (i.e. the thing the key goes into). So in order to "remove the steering lock mechanism", I can either take a hacksaw to the ignition switch and cut off the actual latch part of the steering lock, or I can simply remove the entire ignition switch assembly and wire up a push-button start switch like on a proper racecar.

Given that the ign switch/steering lock is a single Volvo part number and can't be dismantled as far as I can see, my interpretation is I can remove the whole thing. If they wanted me to just cut off the steering lock latch, they should have said "modify the ignition switch to remove the steering lock".

What does everyone think? Clearly I'm looking for an excuse to remove the stupid ignition switch if I can get away with it.

Regards,
Nick Craft

[This message has been edited by beermoth (edited May 09, 2005).]

My car no longer has the ignition switch. I didn't know any way to disable the lock w/o removing the keyed assembly at the time.

Contrary to others, I personally don't see a problem with it. The way I personally see it (stewards and other rules nerds may see it differently), the rules tell you it must be done. They don't tell you how or limit how. I'm sure this will spark a big argument.

To further explain why I feel as I do, if the rules say you can or must do something, the how is pretty much free unless the rules limit the how (or how much if applicable).




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George Roffe
Houston, TX
84 944 ITS car under construction
92 ITS Sentra SE-R occasionally borrowed
http://www.nissport.com

I was able to grind off the swage that holds in the pin in my assembly. But then, I'm a NERD. http://ITForum.ImprovedTouring.com/smile.gif

K

I went through the same debate. Especially focusing on the "Ignition system" rule. I ended up keeping the entire lock assembly, but slid it back on the steering assembly so that the lock could no longer engage the slot to lock the steering wheel.

Just don't forget the key to the car!

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Bill
Planet 6 Racing
bill (at) planet6racing (dot) com

Since the rule does not say you can totally remove the assembly-we kept it and were able to remove the locking pin. My preference would be to not have a key start-but it says nothing about allowing a momentary switch-in place of-it. I am inclined to believe that the rule is as stated for those whose cars are still street registered.

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Grandpa's toys-modded suspensions and a few other tweaks
'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA #99
'03 Dodge Dakota Club Cab V8-Patriot Blue gonna tow

One of those 'legacy rules' that, in current light, is truly silly.

In the early days of column locks, someone got themselves all worked up about the 'dangers to racers', and it never went away. Given the litigious nature of our society...have you ever heard of a single lawsuit resulting from a steering column lock failure on even one of 30 million street cars ? No.

Of course, #1 on the 'silly rule' list is still the 'blood type' on race medical forms.

The p/o had ground the one off on my old ITB car. I personally don't get the requirement. If it's ok for the SS and T guys to leave them, why not the IT folks? If it's dangerous for IT, it should be equally as dangerous for T and SS.

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608

After trying and destroying one switch on my ITA RX-7 using the accepted wisdom method of disassembly, I ended up placing a blocking plate in the assembly to keep the pin from rising into position and locking the column.

The fact that the shim was made of aluminum recycled from a freshly emptied beer can was an unexpected side benefit.

[This message has been edited by Wreckerboy (edited May 10, 2005).]

i removed the whole switch and mounted it to the roll cage lock intact...works fine...

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Evan Darling
ITA Integra

On my JH the lock assembly was the bolt on type as seen on old cars - I just took it off. Easily wired up a push button starter to handle that chore. As my dash bar went right across the top of the column and through the turn signal stalk that is gone too, but I added a toggle switch back in the dash to control the turn signals so that I have them. End result is the column is entirely clean now.

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Ron Earp
NC Region
Ford Lightning
RF GT40 Replica
White Jensen-Healey ITS
Silver "Skull" 260Z ITS

I don't remember the details on my Nissan, but I recall that the lock/pin was somehow integral to the assembly and that modifying/removing it made it unable to be remounted on teh column.

I had to find an appropriate 3-position momentary replacement switch to replicate the On-Off-Start functions. Spent something like a whole day finding the right switch and designing the circuit! What a PITA and a waste of time...

on our Hondas I simply remove the entire ignition switch assembly, install a thin aluminum plate (using duct tape) over the hole in the steering shaft and then reinstall the ignition switch assembly. Now, the spring loaded lock cog cannot enter the lock hole in the shaft.

Using racer-025 description as an example.

***on our Hondas I simply remove the entire ignition switch assembly, install a thin aluminum plate (using duct tape) over the hole in the steering shaft and then reinstall the ignition switch assembly. Now, the spring loaded lock cog cannot enter the lock hole in the shaft.***

If we talk about how some people defeated the steering lock we may be defeated ourselves because the rule spec's "Steering lock mechanism shall be removed". Alum plate & tape is not REMOVED.

Have Fun http://ITForum.ImprovedTouring.com/wink.gif
David

...call the cops! http://ITForum.ImprovedTouring.com/biggrin.gif

I've done this in a couple of Mazda's & Nissans & found it easier to take it apart & 86 the lock than to re-wire the switch. Drop the steering column & undo the shear studs (chisle or centerpunch the side to make it turn out). Once that is done, a single drill hole usually gets rid of the pin and the hole thing falls out in your hand. Remove the lock pin, re-assemble.

Anything made on a production line has to go together easily. Therefore it should come apart as easily, provided you do it in the right order.

OTOH, my family had a car that the ignition jammed up & left my dad stranded once. He had access to a few tools, including a hammer & large screw driver. From then on the screw driver was used to run the switch since there was very little left of the lock cylinder. Made for odd looks at the tire shop when you dropped off the car & handed them a screw driver when they asked for the keys.

Bruce, be careful who you beat this year!
Dino

Hey its pretty tough to beat those VW's anyway... http://ITForum.ImprovedTouring.com/wink.gif

Quote:

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Originally posted by Geo:
My car no longer has the ignition switch. I didn't know any way to disable the lock w/o removing the keyed assembly at the time.

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On your car (and I suspect, a lot of others), you can remove the ignition lock assembly (which is actually a separate thing from the switch itself) and just grind off the pin that engages in slot in the steering column. My car has the key and everything, just like stock.

I don't know of too many cars where you cannot modify the ignition switch to not lock, but I think the rules allow you to remove it entirely and replace it with a starter button just like a "proper racecar" or a "proper Model T Ford". It doesn't say HOW you have to do it.

Cheers,

Chris Camadella
ITS Porsche 944S