Question on rust repair...

I know the GCR says "To factory specifications" however I'm not taking my car to a body shop when I know how to weld, and I'm on a budget here. What I want to know is how strictly tech inspectors look at rust repairs, here is a picture of what my repaired floor looks like now, I cut out the old rusty parts of the floor and welded in new panels. There is no material addition other than a slight overlap, I ma also considering welding the bottom of the floor too just to make it more secure. Is this good enough? For safety when the cage is installed I will shape the plate to also go up onto the undamaged part of the frame.


http://www.ubrfvideo.com/eMKay/floor1.jpg



[This message has been edited by eMKay (edited March 08, 2005).]

I always take before and after pics for my customers to keep in their log books just incase there is a question of why the new panel is in place.

While *I* think you'll be ok (unless the material was heavier than say 20 ga.), I would have made every attempt to replicate the factory pan. Spliting it at the floorpan/firewall joint, a separate panel for the rocker repair, spot welds for the tabs, etc.

Making a big huge patch panel right at the same area where your cage pad is going is opening yourself up for the possibility of a protest. Don't be surprised at how many times you have to explain it.

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Scott Rhea
It's not what you build...
it's how you build it
http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/images/IzysLgoSm.jpg
Izzy's Custom Cages

Quote:

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Originally posted by Speed Raycer:
While *I* think you'll be ok (unless the material was heavier than say 20 ga.), I would have made every attempt to replicate the factory pan. Spliting it at the floorpan/firewall joint, a separate panel for the rocker repair, spot welds for the tabs, etc.

Making a big huge patch panel right at the same area where your cage pad is going is opening yourself up for the possibility of a protest. Don't be surprised at how many times you have to explain it.

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The metal is 22ga and if you look underneath you can see what has been cut out, so I should be able to just have anyone with questions peek underneath. The patch is also pretty close to what the original floor looked like. The proximity to where the pad will be is what prompted me to ask, because if I saw it I would also be suspicious. But from underneath you can clearly see the patch.

Cripes...don't worry about that. There are no real factory specs for rust patching. A tech inspector is most likely going to appreciate a good safe rust repair rather than conducting an inquisition as to the thickness of metal used and its possible affect on cage feet.

This would be especially true if that area shown in the image is the only area repaired.

I do like the idea of keeping before and after pictures, though.

I agree, Don't sweat it. I had to rebuild the floors on both side of my car, passed tech no problem.

I'm glad people are saying don't sweat it. As I think about the bondo in certain areas. http://ITForum.ImprovedTouring.com/rolleyes.gif

If you were adding a very thick piece to place weight where you want it, then that would one thing.

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Dave Gran
NER ITB #13
'87 Honda Prelude si