No Brake Lights

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08-19-2004, 11:23 AM
Mike Spencer

No Brake Lights

The good news is, I know where the problem is. I even know how to fix it. I'm just looking for a "better" solution.

My trusty multi-meter and I determined that I have continuity and voltage through the brake pedal switch and down the harness to a large connector located just behind the driver's seat. After that, I have continuity but no voltage. (I should clarify; I have continuity from the "back" of the connector to the tail lamps)

If I can't come up with a better fix, I can always tap into the wires on either side of the connector and "jump" over it. I was just wondering if anyone had come across a way to actually fix the problem. (I have been diagnosed as obsessive/compulsive. I like "neat" solutions http://Forum.ImprovedTouring.com/it/biggrin.gif )

Thanks, in advance!

(EDIT: clarification)

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Mike Spencer
NC Region
ITA/7 RX-7 #60
1990 RX-7 Convertible (street car)

[This message has been edited by Mike Spencer (edited August 19, 2004).]
08-19-2004, 01:42 PM
joeg

Mike--Just jump it temporarily with some scotch locks or whatever.

However test it with the car running.

You can then do a proper solder job later.
08-19-2004, 02:10 PM
David Ferguson

Have you determined if you have a bad contact in the connector, or a wire is broken where the terminal is crimped on?

You might consider replacing the entire connector (both halves). How many pins, and what is the largest gauge of the wire?

Many connectors, terminals etc used for OEM wiring can be found at "Terminal Supply Company". I have their catalog at home, I'll try to post contact info later...
08-19-2004, 02:12 PM
racer_tim

Just don't forget to hide the "on-off" switch from the tech inspectors.

Turning off the brake lights really messes up the folks following you.

Note: 1 time usage only, before they catch on to what your doing.

Tim
08-19-2004, 05:19 PM
Mike Spencer

Quote:

Originally posted by David Ferguson:
Have you determined if you have a bad contact in the connector, or a wire is broken where the terminal is crimped on?...

When I unplug the connector, I get two halves. The "female" half is at the end of the section that leads back from the dash. The "male" half is the beginning of the section that leads back to the rear bumper.

When I meter the female side I get 12V. Therefore, I presume that side works.

When I check continuity between the male side and the wire at rear lamp, it says that works, too!

The only explanation I can come up with is that when the connector is... well, "connected" they AREN'T TOUCHING. Or am I missing something????? http://Forum.ImprovedTouring.com/it/confused.gif

Quote:

Originally posted by racer_tim:
Just don't forget to hide the "on-off" switch from the tech inspectors.
Turning off the brake lights really messes up the folks following you.

Note: 1 time usage only, before they catch on to what your doing.

Tim

Thanks for the "heads up". I decided to use the hide-in-plain-sight philosophy. I'm using the push-to-talk switch mounted on the steering wheel!

<KIDDING!!!!!> http://Forum.ImprovedTouring.com/it/biggrin.gif

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Mike Spencer
NC Region
ITA/7 RX-7 #60
1990 RX-7 Convertible (street car)
08-19-2004, 05:29 PM
gsbaker

Mike,

Do a continuity check across the connector.

Gregg

[edit: connector, not switch]

[This message has been edited by gsbaker (edited August 19, 2004).]
08-19-2004, 05:35 PM
dickita15

the mark donahue trick was not to turn the brake lights off but instead have a second way to light them (horn button). when being followed he hit then button and then 2 seconds late hit the brakes. then after a few lap he just hit the brakes a suckered the following car in too deep.

as for the harness repairs, I feel you pain. of the three ita rx7's that i help work on mine is the only one that uses any of the stock wires on the others i ran new wire to everthing that matter as the harnesses were so bad. I wish i could throw the harness away and just have the seven wires i need to race the car but when i floated that idea here i got shouted down pretty strongly. rules creep. the car would be a lot cleaner if i could dump that 22 year old bundle of crap.
dick patullo
08-19-2004, 05:51 PM
Nigel Stu

I'd agree with checking continuity across the connector. If you are lacking continuity, load up that connection with dielectric grease and check again (I'd suggest filling the female PIN with the grease, taking care to not bridge any connections).
08-19-2004, 06:49 PM
Speed Raycer

I dunno... Have you checked for a ground problem?

Pull the socket and run a + jumper and ground the light to see if it will burn with the stock harness.

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Scott Rhea
It's not what you build...
it's how you build it
http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/images/IzysLgoSm.jpg http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/images/7sig.jpg
Izzy's Custom Cages
08-20-2004, 12:17 AM
lateapex911

Quote:

Originally posted by dickita15:
..... the car would be a lot cleaner if i could dump that 22 year old bundle of crap.
dick patullo

You are such the clean freak, aren't you? http://Forum.ImprovedTouring.com/it/wink.gif

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Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]
08-20-2004, 01:39 AM
JohnRW

Many cars have brake light circuits that switch the ground to the light, rather than the +12v, sorta like you switch the neutral on a ceiling light in residential wiring.

Just because you have +12 at the connector, don't assume that the switch is working unless you can see a 'change in state' when the brake pedal is depressed/brake light switch is opened/closed.

(self-confessed technoid nerd)(in recovery)(which is a very slow process...)
08-20-2004, 06:46 AM
Bill Miller

JohnRW brings up a great point. Switching the ground side, while not totally common, does happen. Will drive you nuts if you're not looking for it!

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608
08-20-2004, 06:49 AM
dickita15

Quote:

Originally posted by JohnRW:
Many cars have brake light circuits that switch the ground to the light

good point john, but the ita rx7 has a more traditional circuit.
dick
08-20-2004, 06:53 AM
dickita15

Quote:

Originally posted by lateapex911:
You are such the clean freak, aren't you? http://Forum.ImprovedTouring.com/it/wink.gif

gee jake no one has ever said that to me before, especially after seeing my car. oh right that was sarcasm.

as we speak (type)the motor is out of my car due to a oily failure and while ruining the ozone layer while cleaning the engine compartment it just reminded me of how silly it seems to me to keep this soggy pile of crap in the car.
dick
08-20-2004, 11:12 AM
Mike Spencer

Quote:

Originally posted by JohnRW:
...Just because you have +12 at the connector, don't assume that the switch is working unless you can see a 'change in state' when the brake pedal is depressed/brake light switch is opened/closed...

Excellent point! However.... while I neglected to mention it, I DID (and do) see a change of state. From 0V to 12V when pedal is pressed.

I'll have more time over the weekend. Will probably try the dielectric grease. If that doesn't do it, I'll grit my teeth and put in a jumper. http://Forum.ImprovedTouring.com/it/wink.gif

Thanks for all the great ideas!!!!

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Mike Spencer
NC Region
ITA/7 RX-7 #60
1990 RX-7 Convertible (street car)
08-20-2004, 11:23 AM
JohnRW

Quote:

Originally posted by Mike Spencer:
Will probably try the dielectric grease.

What you do in the privacy of your garage is your business.
08-20-2004, 11:54 AM
Mike Spencer

Quote:

Originally posted by JohnRW:
What you do in the privacy of your garage is your business.

Well.... I guess I asked for that one!!!