Master switch wiring

Request advice!

I have wired in my master switch (3 pole, single throw from Truesports). The only deviation from the diagram supplied with the switch is that instead of running a wire from the ignition switch to the MS and then to the coil, I ran a wire from the main output side of the MS, thru a single pole single throw switch to the MS and then to the coil.

The main pole of the MS is directly downstream from the positive battery and the output side ties back into the factory wiring harness.

Starting sequence - turn on MS, turn on fuel pump, turn on new ignition switch, turn on old ignition switch and turn to start position. Car starts, no problem.

Shut down sequence. turn old ignition switch off. Motor shuts off. Any other sequence does not shut off the engine!

When the engine is running and the MS is on, my voltage gauge shows a steady voltage. When the engine is running and the MS is off, the voltage gauge flutters slightly.

My thoughts are that the electrical system is getting current from the alternator, but I can't figure out how to isolate that circuit. I intend to bypass the factory start switch and wire in a lead from a start switch (single pole, momentary closed) to the wire that would normally be attached to the factory start switch.

Should not having to turn on the factory ingnition switch allow the MS to function properly?

Thanks.

I have provided this answer before-but you need to revisit what you are doing. The way our Longacre 2 pole MS is wired is that the 2 large terminals are in series witht he Positive lead from the battery to the MAIN fuse panel. This is a key to the way our setup works. The second set of smaller terminals are wired in series with the 50 AMP Ignition feed from the MAIN fuse panel to the stock Ignition switch.
The reason is simple-the rules require that the Master switch remove ALL power. In order to do this and fully shut the car down you must cut power to the Alternator Field circuit. In our case (CRX) this happens to be a feed off the stock switch. I have also run auxillary power feeds from the small terminals and can set up the pump and fans off that instead of relying on the stock wiring. I am not sure that one can eliminate the stock switch, so this approach is an option short of taking the wiring connectors off the stock switch and rewiring them to a setup such as you suggest for the different functions.
Hope this gets you going.

Thanks for the reply. I understand what you said, makes sense.



Here is the documentation that came with the switch. There are two large terminals, and two sets of two terminals. The large terminals and small teminals 1 are wired as drawn.

Small terminal set 2 shows the switch in series between the ingition coil and the ignition switch. This is the way I have it installed except that I am using a secondary ignition switch, not the stock switch.

What you are saying is to take a hot lead from the main fuse panel and wire terminal set two in series to the input side of the stock ignition switch. Am I correct?

Thanks, again.

Edit: Sorry, I don't know how to include images.

Bill:
Not being fully familiar with your switch is not a problem. You really only need to cut power such that the ECU or Ignition box (MSD for example) along with the pumps and FIELD are killed. As I said, I did this with the feed to the stock switch-kills everything without having any other switches involved. Your setup uses a start panel I assume and that would be fed on its own fuse the same as I am doing.
If you can scan a drawing and e-mail it to me I will edit as needed. It really is simple :) Jim

FYI: Write up on the Northeast SCCA Webpage...

http://www.users.fast.net/~nescca/tech.html


Raymond

I have mine wired as described in the tech article. I actually tapped into one of the ignition coil control wires underneath the dash, but it has the same affect. I don't have any other switches in the path between the master switch and the coil. The resistor ground circuit must go to the connectors labeled 1 and the coil circuit to the connectors labeled 2. The 1 connectors are closed when the master switch is off and the 2 connectors are open.

David

Quote:

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I have mine wired as described in the tech article. I actually tapped into one of the ignition coil control wires underneath the dash, but it has the same affect. I don't have any other switches in the path between the master switch and the coil. The resistor ground circuit must go to the connectors labeled 1 and the coil circuit to the connectors labeled 2. The 1 connectors are closed when the master switch is off and the 2 connectors are open.

David
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David and Ray: Thanks for the advice and guidance. I will get out the jumper wires and try several configurations and see what works. #1 terminals are wired correctly. Just don't know where I'm getting the feed from the alternator!

Bill:

If you have a feed from the alternator to the "main" fuse panel underhood that is attached to the Positive feed of the battery-it also need to be switched. This is easily done so that it is properly isolated. Another thing-many Alternators do NOT need a resistor at all.
I did e-mail you ,btw

Bill:
Check you e-mail again.
Do try the alternate that you mention in your PM and let me know.

fwiw, here are pictures of the affected section of the wiring diagram for my 1st gen crx and where i connected everything to for the typical shut-off switch.

the notations are rather cryptic but i think you should be able to get the gist.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tom91ita/page16/

the resistor was just wired to the cage where the kill switch was attached.

tom

Thanks to all who replied to my query. Looking carefully at the shop manual and the ingnition switch, I found the connectors on the harness that were fed by the ignition switch. I ran a line from the small terminal on the master switch, thru my switch panel, and back to the harness. That made all the power that normally would come out of the ignition switch controlled by the master switch.

Held my breath last night, and fired it all up. Motor starts and runs with the master on, and what do you know, stops when the master is turned off. :happy204: :happy204: :happy204:

Now, just waiting for the shift linkage to get back after changing the fastners!!!