Set Up for a 2nd Gen

I need help in getting a good starting point in set up specs for alinement for the front and rear wheels. (Toe and Camber)1986 ITS RX7 2nd Gen
Also this will the first time I will have the car cornered weighted.
Where do I start? Even out all four coners? Make the front heavier then the front or the rear heavier then the front. I heard of the ratio of the cross corner being important. I like the car to be neutral to loose. How much does the corner weight control this?
I bought JIC shocks and struts. Ride height is a seperate adjustment from the spring weight. I think the spring rates are 500# front and 300# rear

Thanks for your imput
racecarjohn:shrug:

you can start with l/f 3.5-3.8 neg camber (in at the top), r/f 2.5-2.75. toed out bout 1/8" to 5/32".r/r 1.5 -1.8 , l/r 1.75-2.0 with toe in bout 1/16"-3/32". if you have mostly right hand turns. you can flip sides if you have more left turns. i use the cross weights to balance the car.get close to 50/50%. also check front to rear % , get close to 50/50% . be careful not to go to lite ....2680 lbs for its , with little to no gas in car.you can use tire temps to fine tune the cambers on each tire. depending on the track your springs should be close.ours are abit softer.hope this helps

my advice is to take the car to a shop that knows ITS rx7's and let them work their magic.

another setup suggestion: lose the rear sway bar

Quote:

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Originally Posted by racecarjohn

I need help in getting a good starting point in set up specs for alinement for the front and rear wheels. (Toe and Camber)1986 ITS RX7 2nd Gen
Also this will the first time I will have the car cornered weighted.
Where do I start? Even out all four coners? Make the front heavier then the front or the rear heavier then the front. I heard of the ratio of the cross corner being important. I like the car to be neutral to loose. How much does the corner weight control this?
I bought JIC shocks and struts. Ride height is a seperate adjustment from the spring weight. I think the spring rates are 500# front and 300# rear

Thanks for your imput
racecarjohn:shrug:

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Let us know where you are located and maybe someone with experience can give you some help. Welcome to ITS.

are u in the southeast, we will be at cmp at the end of the month. steve and/or myself could help you then .

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Unlike some racers, I share most of the information I've learned racing our RX 7 with other mazda racers. Even help others with their car at the track. Getting a car to handle properly is my goal as a crew chief. Ask away!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by racingralph

you can start with l/f 3.5-3.8 neg camber (in at the top), r/f 2.5-2.75. toed out bout 1/8" to 5/32".r/r 1.5 -1.8 , l/r 1.75-2.0 with toe in bout 1/16"-3/32". if you have mostly right hand turns. you can flip sides if you have more left turns. i use the cross weights to balance the car.get close to 50/50%. also check front to rear % , get close to 50/50% . be careful not to go to lite ....2680 lbs for its , with little to no gas in car.you can use tire temps to fine tune the cambers on each tire. depending on the track your springs should be close.ours are abit softer.hope this helps

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Holy crap! How are you getting that much negative camber in the front? I already had to cut the hole in the top of my shock towers out bigger just to get it to where I could get a full -3 degrees on both sides!

-Vincent.

Call Speedsource at 954-578-7071 and get their comber plates. Cover the entire strut tower and allow up to -4 camber and proper caster. Best on the market for a second gen.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by seckerich

Call Speedsource at 954-578-7071 and get their comber plates. Cover the entire strut tower and allow up to -4 camber and proper caster. Best on the market for a second gen.

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LOL, I would but I've kind of hacked up my shocktowers now (drilled holes, made big hole ALOT bigger...so I would probably have to redo it all to get anything that's bolt in.

Mike at ISC used to have some nice bolt in camber plates, but he said that due to the fact that demand was so low, he had to go to the universal ones.

-Vincent.

the speedsource plates covers the top of the strud tower, even if you have cut them up abit. their plates should work. you will get the extra camber. miike's uni plates may work , but they are smaller in size (od). if you have cut towers alot mike's may not work. hopes this helps . ralph

Well I managed to cut the towers enough to get negative 3 degrees of camber on both sides. That should be enough for now...

-Vincent.