WTB - Class C Motorhome

I am looking for season end deals on an inexpensive Class C motorhome. Needs to be in good shape, sleep 5, able to tow the open race trailer, and available for inspection in New England.

Does anyone have any leads or trading up before next season?

I dont have one for sale, but have also been looking at these. My concern is that I also want it to be able to tow a 24 foot trailer, so about 7 to 8K lbs.
I just dont think they are capable of this. Do you know what they can tow?
Guess most are based on 350 or 450 chassis, but they already have lots of weight with the living quarters...
They can be found pretty reasonably priced if you get one a few years old with a gas motor. Although a diesel running on biodiesel would be preferable :)

Matt,

I agree that a smaller Class C on the 350 or 450 chasis would have a difficult time towing an enclosed trailer. I plan on keeping my 18' open trailer for that reason. A diesel motor would be great but I am not finding any in the northeast.

Class C diesels are rare, as are C's with the tow capability for an 8K# trailer.

One exception (that can tow 10K) is the Gulfstream Endura. They've only been out a couple of years, though - so they're probably out of your price range. A new one with the diesel package is about $100K. I very seriously considered one, until I ran across a "steal" on the Monaco Knight (Class A diesel pusher) we bought. They're still selling on eBay for more than I paid over a year ago. :)

One caveat - if you DO find a diesel, make sure it has a diesel generator. An LP generator WILL NOT make it through an average race weekend without at least one refill of LP.

I sell RV's, so if I can help with info (or even a sale), just ask. We specialize in diesels. I am taking in a real nice class C, 1995 Travel Master 24 ft with a 460 Ford engine, new refridgerator/brakes/tires etc, owned by a little old couple.(!) I'm even considering it. Please be real careful in considering a coach. Alot of manufacturers have terrible towing set ups. Scary build structure and more. Heat is a major problem also (transmisions etc.) Diesel class C's weigh a great deal more than gas and thus their towing capacity is less, plus the noise is deafening. Remember, the engine is right by your feet, not 18 inches out front with a fire wall between it. Obvious, rear diesel class A's are the best way to go, but a Daytona Prototype may not be what you are racing. Email me with any questions, or if you have found a coach already, I may have info on what to look for and what may be a fair price. RV's are wonderful "creatures", but like my ole MG's, you have to walk around them with a pair of pliars and a screwdiver often.

David

[email protected]

My first suggestion is to drive a class C gas, then a class A gas and try to carry on a comversation. My wife and I did, and immediately went looking for a diesel pusher. You can purchase older high line class A diesel pushers with really low mileage for what you would pay for a used C...you just have to look harder. I found a 94 Holiday Rambler Imperial with less than 40k on the 250hp Cummins diesel engine. (94-95 pushers will be quite a bit cheaper since that is before sildes became popular) A quick upgrade made it 300hp with 925ft/lb torque (if I can just tune the BMW for that torque) and actually helped mileage. I get 10+ without the open trailer, and 9+ with.....hills??? what are those???? Usually drive in the 1600-1700rpm range which is the mid 70s. The nicest thing is that my wife and I can carry on a conversation at the same level we do at home. I have to remember to look at the backup camera to remind myself that there is indeed a trailer following me. Very good time to look...spend a lot of time on e-bay but remember that the camera hides MOST imperfctions...what looks great on the screen could be junk in person. I realized that after I drove my second 8 hour trip to look for a "deal". Good luck, Chuck

[quote]
Do you know what they can tow?
Guess most are based on 350 or 450 chassis, but they already have lots of weight with the living quarters......

Most are rated for 3500 to 4500 lbs. ONLY, pleeeeezz be careful, you just do not know how many bent frames I've seen from over loaded towing, and you would not believe some of the things I've seen towed.
With that said, you can modify frames for heavier trailors, but you have to watch your GCWR (gross combined weight rating)
Most RV manufacturers lengthen the frame rails, some to Ford's specs, some not.
Get under the coach and look at the frame rail and the hitch. The extention should be both welded and BOLTED, as Ford supplies the actual holes in their frame for the extentions.
Look at a new National RV class A extention, it will scare you to death, They are a very good coach over all, but the way they extent the frame is appalling.

David

Dave,

Thanks for assist. Perhaps I would have more luck looking in Florida and not the rust belt of northern New England. I do not find a lot of quality deals here. (Possible Sale??)

My problems is parking and storage so I would like a unit under 30'. I will be towing an 18' Econo open trailer with tire racks and a 3000#(and growing?) ITS BMW. I would guess loaded trailer weight to be close to 5000#. Do you think a Class C would easily tow through the hills of New England when headed for Lime Rock or WGI?

All advice is welcome.

Dave,

I have a used 2005 Class C with just a little over 2000 miles. Email me at [email protected] for pictures and specs.

Wally

Quote:

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Originally posted by wally@Nov 1 2005, 10:56 PM
Dave,

I have a used 2005 Class C with just a little over 2000 miles. Email me at [email protected] for pictures and specs.

Wally

[snapback]64226[/snapback]

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Sorry Dave, I meant Ed.

Wally