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So just got a transponder and am mounting to the car.
1. How good a window does it need? I riveted it to the side of the front frame horn a couple inches up from the bottom. Will that be ok?
2. Any concern with using the keyed 12v+ that goes to the coil for the hot power? (my kill sw is on the - side, so it will go off with the kill sw).
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/2229/cimg1437.jpg
Thanks!
Mine is mounted in the same way, EXCEPT on the INSIDE. That way, there is a little protection. And I wired mine off of the fuse block using the radio fuse.
If you have to have a window - say there is something underneath the transponder, 6 inches is the best. Direct power is best. Possible loss of poer to the transponder when something you attach it to is not good if you attach it to something that also uses the power.
Power it from the car's battery (fused of course).
It doesn't draw much power and is on and off with your kill switch. Wiring it to any "shared" component can be trouble.
Don't wire it off the coil wiring. In the event that the HT wiring fails, that many thousands of volts is going somewhere. The transponder will not work after it takes a shot that was intended for a spark plug. Been there, done that.
hm.. thanks for the feedback. will ponder.. (mine is the direct wired variety)
Datadude, when I said "window" I meant the emitter sight window from the device... there is nothing below the mounting with the bumper on - its clear to the ground. I just wondered if the rail itself would shield the device too much or if it could "see" ok as mounted. Also wasn't sure if the device had to be rotated a certain way either (delivered instructions aren't very good)
Thanks.
You have the device oriented correctly. That is the same set-up on my car and it works fine. I believe most people mount the transponders like that.
Where is the best place to buy a transponder these days?
Rob--I purchased my last one off of eBay, but due to mylaps registration issues, you might be better off buying a new one from AMB or retail merchants-like Pegasus.
Thanks folks..
I got mine from OGRacing... the whole AMB thing is a racket, so consequently there generally aren't deals to be had. Combine that with the mylaps thing, and may as well just suck it up and get a new one.
Pegasus has free shipping on it's AMB transponders. $380.00.
Most on ebay go for close to that, so why not just buy new?
I don't see why they need to be so expensive.
Last year I was thinking...."how could I pickup another tenth
of a second in qualifying?"....hmmmm
If we pass over the timing mark at 90mph ... that is 132 ft/sec
So, all I have to do is put the transponder on a 13ft long
slide under the car....cross the line with the transponder
aft (at the latest possible time), then during the lap, pull
the transponder forward 13ft on the slide, and it would cross
the timing line 0.1 sec sooner.
Of course every other lap would suck :)
I like the 13' slide idea!!
I do wonder however how important it is to mount your transponder at the verry front of he car?
Are results based on who has the very front of their car in front or who's transponder is in front?
Would it benefit me in a "photo finish" to have my transponder mounted at the very front of my front bumper?
Transponders are (supposedly) not used for finishing position.
All finishes are visual as well as having tapes and charts done by t&s..Quote:
Originally Posted by NORRIS
I had a 510 with the Xponder mouted at the rear of the car. Plenty of room, protected from debris, and a large window to the ground.
Finishing positions are visual.
Quote:
Originally Posted by datadude
Just ask Scott Goodyear and Al Unser Jr. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If finishing positions are visual where does T&S get the winning margin from?