Clutch assembly-D15

I am at the point of selecting a clutch assembly for my Honda, 88-91 (D15),for ITB/ITC.
I am searching for opinions, good or bad, on the various clutch manufacturers.

Thank you,
Dave

I've run the ACT (stage 1) clutch in my D16Z6 and loved it! I ran this clutch for 7+ seasons and only replaced it when I re-shelled the car. The clutch and pressure plate I removed looked great and had plenty of life left. I'm now using the Centerforce clutch (from Jegs) and it just as good (or better, but I can't tell since it works great). No heat issues, no slip...

I have had good luck with stock from honda with my 86 crx Si. That said, I came across an aftermarket PP in a parts car that was 1 # lighter and have been using that.

Matt, any weight reduction in the aftermarket ones you have used?

I ink given the low HP of our cars, I'd look to reduce rotating weight if u can.

Usually the cheapest thing on Ebay. We dont make enough power to wear them out. If you can save a few lbs for $100 or so, Id say do it. If you wanna go cheap, I have a few discs and PPs you can have for shipping. I think they have meat on them, I can mic them. I was just gonna scrap em.

I had some warping with my act pressure plate. I went to clutch masters on both plate and 6puck clutch . No problems. Late pedal engagement ie fast shifts

If you are running a 90+ flywheel, get a OEM clutch for 2001 Civic.

D17 pressure plate has more clamping power, 17-20% IIRC.

Buying new, Centerforce Dual Friction is my choice.

I never compared the weight of a stock unit against either of the options I've used. I tried to run a 'stock' clutch when I had the quake installed and that didn't work well. It would slip under hard racing conditions. I was guessing that the open stock diff used to eat that and the quaife showed me the next weak link in the process. That led to the ACT stage 1.

I agree with Matt, the ACT stage 1 is the one I used in my 90 CRX's all with Quaiffe diff's, and the one I recommend to my clients. My second choice would be the Centerforce. They are set em' and forget em' installs.
Good luck

I put in a ACT HD pressure plate when I pulled the trans last August. Just the pressure plate change which is a Exedy OEM PP rebuilt by ACT took off 2#.

The old PP was the "other" Honda supplier aside from Exedy back in the late 80's. The plate had a lot of small diaphragm fingers verse Exedy's 10 or so larger fingers. Weight difference was very noticeable when I had them side by side.

Also went with an ACT stage 1 sprung clutch like Matt. The major difference I have noticed is the pedal feel and throttle response. The ACT racing clutch will be just about as much as an OEM (I saw the ACT clutch for $100 on Amazon; New OEM was $80). You can buy a kit with a HD PP and clutch for ~$320. Most of the expense is in the PP as a new OEM is around $100.

I also had the flywheel resurfaced and balanced with the PP at a local shop. Was around $40 for the surfacing and another $60 for the balancing. How much difference it made I am not sure but the 2# difference and balancing made the engine feel "snappier" from the previous setup. Could also be the awesome trans rebuild from Bone. :eclipsee_steering:

or losing a few pounds off the flywheel (shrug)... :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mossaidis

or losing a few pounds off the flywheel (shrug)... :)

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Well I did ask that if much balancing is needed taking weight off would be preferred. Ultimately I think the machinest had to take off 6 oz to get the balance which is 3/8 of a pound. Not sure how much resurfacing took off but quessing around the same. So maybe round it to 1 pound for the balancing. :023:

:) I am fine with it. To Satisfy others, let's call it "balancing and blueprinting"... LET THE GAMES BEGIN! just kidding.

Thank you to all who responded to my post. Very, very helpful information.
Thank you,
Dave