Printable View
After this wet weekend at Nelson, I have decided that a trash bag stuck in the window is no longer sufficient for towing purposes.
On my 91 civic, the driver side door has been completely gutted to make room for the NASCAR bars, and I was wondering if anyone has any pics or suggestions on making a lexan type fof window that I can insert/remove when the car is on the trailer.
thanks in advance.
Have you seen what Mitch Piper did w/ my original window? Very nifty. Basically an aluminum sheet bolted to the window (where the lift normally connects) and then the aluminum sheet just sits on the door's impact beam. Very simple and very good at sealing out the elements since the window makes a perfect seal.
I'll take a pic of that when I shoot the tire rack for you.
------------------
Gregg Ginsberg
http://www.ginsberg.org
'89 CRX Si -- MARRS ITA #72
WDCR-SCCA Rookie of the Year 2003
[This message has been edited by Gregg (edited April 26, 2005).]
In the past i have just used the OEM window glass, pushed up into place and held there with a 1x6 wood board pushed into the door bottom up into the bottom of the glass. It worked for me.
I too use the actual window. I hold it in place (this includes while its being towed on my open trailer) with two large pieces of 2-3" wide industrial strength velcro.
Adhere "hard" strips to both sides of glass, then leave the backing tape on the "soft side". Then you can use the long piece of "soft" side velcro to velcro from inside/outside over the top of the door panel onto the other inside/outside peice of velcro. (Sorry don't know how to word it clearly.)One strip set towards the front of the window (near dash), the other at the back (near b-pillar).
Its the cheapest thing I could think of (under $10) & it works. I've done this for 5 years now.
[This message has been edited by lyonel (edited April 26, 2005).]
Use Lexan.
The regular glass works fine sitting still, but you would have a mess if the block slips and the glass shatters.
You can't see through metal, which is a consideration driving on and off the trailer and around the rainy paddock.
Attach the Lexan with velcro, Dzus fasteners, nutserts or a short bungee attached to one side of the Lexan to the bolt side of a closed loop eye bolt; the other end of the bungee hooks into the "eye" after it goes over the top of the door.
Avoid plexiglass or clear vinyl.
I have also seen plywood, but that falls into the same category as metal.
Have fun.
on my G-prod, I made plexiglass windows using the stock windows as a pattern. I slid the window up into the stock weather stripping so that it was a snug fit.
I took a piece of wood about 18" long and about 1.5" wide by 2.0" tall and cut a rabbet the length of the strip of just the right thickness so that the wood rests on the window sill but the rabbet partially extends down into the door and presses tightly against the window from the inside.
Then I drilled three holes thru the window and the wood. I then installed threaded inserts into the wood. I use thumb screws with large washers. The screws install from the outside, thru the window, and into the threaded inserts. They take about 2 minutes to remove/install at the track.
The window can't really go anywhere since the stock channel keeps it from moving up or shifting forward or back, and the wooden strip keeps the window from dropping down.
They survived the tow from Wisconsin to Sebring last year!
Plain old plexiglass works just fine. Mine have held up for several years now and if I do break one, I can go to any hardware store and get new material. I did find that there were different styles of plexiglass and and I used the type that was more flexible. This seemed to follow the contour of the stock windo channel better.
You don't need to waste money on Lexan unless you want to. These are only for towing.
Edit - this is assuming you are using these for towing only.....if you are using these as a temporary window for a dual purpose daily-driver/racecar, then that's different. I would use Lexan in that case since it is stronger.
[This message has been edited by Greg Gauper (edited April 26, 2005).]
Pretty much same here. I purchased lexan from Home Depot, laid the glas window on it and cut around the lexan to match. I use velcro to hold it up and in. I also purchased two cheep plastic drawer handles and bolted them to the center section of the plexi. That gives me two handles to grab to put in or out.
You guys are making it too difficult. Just use your OEM window and hold in place by 2 rubber door stops jammed in between the window and door. Yes, I said door stops. The little triangle shaped things you buy for 99 cents. I tow with a open trailer and never once has the window moved or fall, even in the rain. I also do this at the track overnight and when it rains.
You are very welcome http://ITForum.ImprovedTouring.com/smile.gif
------------------
Richy Gonzalez
GB Racing<A HREF="http://groups.msn.com/TheGonzalezFamilyRichySheilaandNyah/projectitacrx.msnw" TARGET=_blank>
#24 ITA CRX For Sale LOW PRICE $7000.00</A>
LAMIN-X Protective Films
[This message has been edited by Richy Gonzalez (edited April 27, 2005).]
I want ot know how you get out of the car when the trailer fender blocks the door?
Some of us know to put the window in after we exit the car. I get out of the car the same way I would if the I was unable to open the door during an incident--through the window opening.Quote:
Originally posted by USGUYS:
I want ot know how you get out of the car when the trailer fender blocks the door?
[This message has been edited by Gregg (edited April 28, 2005).]
Cut a piece of vinyl to cover the window frame, make it like a pillow case. Slide over the frame. Velcro on the bottom. Exit the car, slip the cover over, press the velcro together, close the door. $10 investment 5 seconds to install, 5 years of open trailer towing, no water mess or fuss. I did copy this idea from an other racer.