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anyone know of a good source of info regarding maint of a 99 k2500 'burb? doing a brake job and the rotor/hub doesn't look like my race car. need details on how to change the rotors. haynes manual is useless. recommended manual? internet site? anyone here?
thanks!
marshall
mlytle, As I recall that K2500 has a floating rotor? If thats the case not much to the brake job, but the basics. 1st off clean keep it clean! The GM use a 3/8" Allen head bolt-slider to hold the calpers on. Also by a very goog type of pad I like the Bendix Fleet Mets. the best, but any high end pad should work also do not use a solecone grease they dont take the heat get a grafite based one & ck the drop point. Ok now you are ready to start! pull the calipers off hang them up coat hanger or zippy tie them, rotor might need a little tap tap use a dead blow, make sure your pads are correct! Push the pistons back into the boar as you open the bleeded screw! (do not just push it back up the line!) Clean off the pins/ sliders ck the rubber slider o rings and clean the braket and calpers where they touch. Clean the rotor hat frt and rear & the stud-hub area. Replace or turn-true the rotors then clean with brake clean then wash in soap and water dish soap (low phosferuse) is fine. Put rotor back on, grease the sliders and bracket, put calipers on and toqure to specs make sure that there is not any graes on the rotors. Depress pedal toqure wheels road test 15-20 stops 35mph to 5mph if you can. Take it easy for 500 miles to burnish/mate the pad and rotor. you are done ! do not forget to check the rear brakes! Glenn
Marshall call if Questions arise (760) 347-0205
i wish...
the whole rest of the job is fairly straight forward as you say, but evidently k2500 front rotor is pressed on and is part of hub assembly. i have the praise-dyno stage two kit ready to go on, but am staring at the rotor scratching my head... http://Forum.ImprovedTouring.com/it/wink.gif
thanks glenn, if you are familiar with the k2500's, i'll will try to give you a call.
marshall
Quote:
Originally posted by mlytle:
i wish...
the whole rest of the job is fairly straight forward as you say, but evidently k2500 front rotor is pressed on and is part of hub assembly. i have the praise-dyno stage two kit ready to go on, but am staring at the rotor scratching my head... http://Forum.ImprovedTouring.com/it/wink.gif
thanks glenn, if you are familiar with the k2500's, i'll will try to give you a call.
marshall
In certain cases- the hub must be removed, and the whole unit must be assembled and re-installed.
Picture here:
http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.as...ype=221&PTSet=A
Some Honda's are like this as well...
Pretty mch a pain in the A** ....
A good general Tech Q&A is on our website here:
http://www.raceshopper.com/how_to_install_brakes.shtml
~E.
If its a 4x4, and they didn't change from '95 to '99 you need to take the hub off the knuckle - 1 big nut in the center for the stub shaft, 4 bolts through the knuckle into the hub (these get rusty in the northeast, can be a pain). Get the caliper out of the way and then don't drop it on your foot. Remove the ABS sensor. I forget how the rotor seperates from the hub, if they are bolted, but I do remember using my 5 pound hammer. There may be something that holds the gravel shield, but that stuff is minor as I remember (did this job last summer). If its not rusty, its pretty straight forward, everything turns counter clockwise to unthread.
thanks edwin and mmiskoe!
yup, it is a 4x4 k2500 and they didn't change from 95-99...and it was a northeast vehicle.
i am hoping to also find some specific tech info on this procedure with torque values, etc. actually, a source of a good shop manual would be great. if only bentley made one. i don't hesitate to take something apart on the race car, i can always just leave it in pieces for a while. just a little more hesitant about disabling the tow vehicle that i need occasionally in the driveway! http://Forum.ImprovedTouring.com/it/wink.gif
marshall
marshall