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[color=#000099][b][size=3][font=Courier New]I have coilovers, discs all around, cold air intake, about to get, neuspeed exaust, and GIAC chip, what should I do next, besides roll cage, seats, harnesses, and all around lightening.
Any replys can come back here, or throught this address, thanks a lot for your help, in advance.
http://www.myspace.com/billakabosh
headers, struts and matching springs for your spring rates, sway bar(s), wheel bearings, brake lines and real agressive pads, transponder, clutch, axles, spare wheels with race rubber (15X7) and rains, master kill switch, extinguisher, truck/trailer to tow it, racing suit , gloves, shoes, helmet and a LARGE bank account to go race it!! :D check with Bildon, he races a VR6 Corrado...
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[color=#000099][size=3][font=Courier New]I have coilovers, discs all around, cold air intake, about to get, neuspeed exaust, and GIAC chip, what should I do next, besides roll cage, seats, harnesses, and all around lightening.
Any replys can come back here, or throught this address, thanks a lot for your help, in advance.
http://www.myspace.com/billakabosh
First thing to get is a copy of the GCR. You can download it for free from www.scca.com You really need to look at the rules before you start building a car. And as far as 'coilovers' go, if they're some street setup, you can probably toss them, as they won't really be up to snuff for the track. Not a knock against you, but I see kids all the time on the VW site (Vortex) that constantly say "I want coilovers", but have no idea about the spring rate, free length, or shock valving.
It's got the wrong engine in it (or right one, depending how one looks at it) but...
http://it2.evaluand.com/gti/
K
Every VW GTI ever made has "coilovers". The shock valving and shaft STRENGTH are what's important.
CAI, build an insulated box around the cleaner or reinstall the stock air box.
GIAC chip. A compromize.
neuspeed exaust << scrap it. Way too heavy and restrictive.
Seat(s)? << You only need 1. Sparco Circuit is a good deal.
>> what should I do next
Hawk HT10 (or 9012 Blues if your are a rookie) with hoses from ducts in a deep front spolier. HP-Plus in rear.
Spherical bearings in all suspension pickups, 800-1000 lb front springs, 800 rear. Remove front sway bar.
Add large rear bar. Steel camber shims rear, camber bolts front, solid upper strut mounts, wheel spacers, LIGHT wheels
Light 4 or 6 puck clutch. Clutch type differential and 3.94 or 4.20 R&P with 'low drag' gearbox assembly.
Engine stay rod.
Most important, precision engine build with higher compression, balanced everything, tuned race exhaust and a custom ECU tune to maximize the gains.
Depending on what series you plan to run you can also add quite a few more items that will drastically improve performance.
A VR6 does not make a good dual purpose car. Either modify for 100% track use or stick with a lighter, softer sprung 4 cyl. In race trim the VR6 would be deadly on the street.
Ask me how I know :P
http://www.bildon.com/racing/races/R.../WGI_crash.jpg
Well you haven't really explained what it is you intend to do with your car. Even if it's assumed that you plan to run in IT there are many compromises that can be made. I'd say that the best $20 that you could spend is to check out this book. http://itforum.improvedtouring.com/forums/...?showtopic=8472
Decide what you want to get out of this, make a plan, and stick to it. It will save you tons of money in the long run.
-Bob
Looking at his Myspace page, it apears as though he lives in Hawaii. I was out thier last year and looked up SCCA's region. I went to the only track out on the islands and from what I understand the land was rented and an agreement could not be made so the track was due to be torn down and replaced with condo's. That was a year ago so I imagine that has probably already happened.
With all that he is probably sticking to autocrosses and street use.
Raymond
PS: If the track does still exist, it is a relatively tight twisty track on relatively level ground.