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Asking this for a friend.
He has an 88 or 87 325I E30
What would be the best suspension set up for ITS.
After that what would be best for $1500 to $2K
I would think Coil Overs with good Shock Inserts with adjustability but what brands available and spring rates.
THanks in advance for any advice.
have him call bimmerworld and get the complete ground control
/advanced design setup. will be great in the e30 and near the desired price range.
i have run this setup in my e30 ITS and e36 ITS cars.
I thought the Advance Design units leaked and needed constant recharging...a MAJOR headache in a strut based insert.....
dunno about that. been using a/d dampers for 6 years. i just refresh them each winter. work fine.Quote:
I thought the Advance Design units leaked and needed constant recharging...a MAJOR headache in a strut based insert.....
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the inserts are easy to get out of the front when using the shortened strut tube and race springs.
I'd heard the same thing from bimmerforums, just goes to show that you can't always trust what you hear. Althought GC are the only people who can do the service....Quote:
I thought the Advance Design units leaked and needed constant recharging...a MAJOR headache in a strut based insert.....
[/b]
Another option would be TC Kline racing's dual adjustable Koni's. It'll be just over the top of what you had budgeted at ~$2100. However, you'll be running standard Koni inserts with redesigned valving for the higher spring rates. You can find their site here: TC Kline
Good Luck,
James
Actually, you can recharge them at the track. You just need teh appropriate adapter, guage and a bottle of nitrogen.
And on some cars gertting them out is easy, on thers it is next to impossible.
People have had, from what I understand, mixed experiences with the GC AD units. Some leak, others don't. AD reps say theres no issue. Sevice can be reasonable, or take over a month. I have DAs on my car, but after bending the second one, I am switching to Konis. I feel they are just a bit easier to service and the company has nothing but praise in the racer community.
I will give my report on A/D struts after I hear from the company...I want to see how they handle my issue I had at the ARRC...
Buying someone's suspension is just the tip of the iceberg. You have the correct spring rates with the correctly valved shocks, but the other nuances of setup will have to be added. First, shortened struts: and make sure to get the long front inserts. Second, you will have to make arrangements for camber/toe adjustment in the rear. eccentric bushings will work, but on a race car I prefer the modified subframe. Also, consider the subframe mounts along with the swing arm bushings. Good luck, Chuck
Since we're discussing an ITS, car, is it legal to modify the subframe?Quote:
Buying someone's suspension is just the tip of the iceberg. You have the correct spring rates with the correctly valved shocks, but the other nuances of setup will have to be added. First, shortened struts: and make sure to get the long front inserts. Second, you will have to make arrangements for camber/toe adjustment in the rear. eccentric bushings will work, but on a race car I prefer the modified subframe. Also, consider the subframe mounts along with the swing arm bushings. Good luck, Chuck [/b]
It doesn't help that the ecentric busings are know failure points and tend to slip in their setting over time. Also, it doesn't help that Jeff Ireland at Ireland engineering makes a kit to replace the mounts which works far better than the ecentric bushings, which are made for street cars out of soft street grade urethane. All of this is an academic exercise though, because as Jake points out modifying mounting points is an IT no-no. Best bet is to replace any bent pieces and live with the camber and toe you get from lowering and use centered delrin bushings in the arms.
James
2007 GCR. Page 300. 9.1.3.d4
ah. so the modification is the slotting of mounting holes? Gotcha.
Reinforcement and slotting are both allowed... I stand corrected.
James
Note, once the eccentrics are installed they need to be tack welded in place after the camber/toe is set. Mine moved toeing out the LR and the handling was very interesting :026: Chuck