What's bent?

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10-03-2005, 05:05 PM
jake7140

Couple questions:
- hit the wall and flattened the driver's side, most likely also pushing the axle toward the psngr side
- straightened frame, now rear end sits about 1/2 to 3/4 inch further out of the passenger side fender well
- measuring wheel to frame underneath, there is the same discrepency (frame straight, axle mounting bad somewhere?)
- when removing the rear end, looks like maybe the brackets that hold the trailing arms might have been tweaked, tho it's hard to tell for sure.

- I suppose the trailing arms could be tweaked, hard to tell since they would all be tweaked? I am running stock bushings which seem to have quite a bit of play tho.
- if the brackets on the axle are tweaked, can they be straightened and/or gussetted/welded?
- The Watts link pivots, so I wouldn't think that those links would get mashed?
- Do I "just" replace all arms and rear end?

PS: I don't neccessarily want to continue down the RX-7 path in the future
10-03-2005, 05:50 PM
Speed Raycer

First thing I would check would be the control arms. The tubes should be straight even with the offset bushing ends. Any chance that one is in backwards ( \ \ instead of / \ )?

The mounting brackets can be repaired, although gussetting them would be illegal unless authorized by the factory repair manual :wacko:

Also, check your toe and camber on the rear end housing. If you smacked it that hard, it could be tweaked.
10-04-2005, 07:39 AM
joeg

Was the frame straightened on a frame machine with a good technician?
10-04-2005, 12:00 PM
ddewhurst

Steve, is the car you talk about the "X" James car ? If so was the rear correct when you received from him ? Give me a hollor if 4 eyes are better than 2.
10-04-2005, 12:13 PM
jake7140

Quote:

Originally posted by joeg@Oct 4 2005, 11:39 AM
Was the frame straightened on a frame machine with a good technician?

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An unknown to me, but based on reccommedation from experienced racer/team mgr. Good equipment, experienced tech (does a lot of spec piniatta work lately!). Some initial quick measurements (based on factory manual) looked good.
10-04-2005, 01:53 PM
jake7140

Quote:

Originally posted by ddewhurst@Oct 4 2005, 04:00 PM
Steve, is the car you talk about the "X" James car ? If so was the rear correct when you received from him ? Give me a hollor if 4 eyes are better than 2.

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David,
Yes, it's the x JO car. I was in fact thinking of taking it back to the same place 'cause it was very nice after his encounter with the kink wall. The rear was correct prior to 'the incident' (duly recorded in my website's videos section)

I'll take a closer look, but could it also be the Watts link pivot point on the punkin? The guy says he did "try to straighten it out cuz it looked crooked" with a hydraulic ram.

Anyone have any spare gsl rear ends???
10-04-2005, 11:44 PM
lateapex911

I know you don't want to continue on the RX-7 path, (why? ) but....

Instead of getting another GSL, if the axle is straight, and the mounting components are responsible, just get rid of the Watts and convert it to a Panhard set up. (If you're going to have to dork around with it, at least move frward!)

(Assuming it's an ITA car)
10-05-2005, 11:28 AM
jake7140

Quote:

Originally posted by lateapex911@Oct 5 2005, 03:44 AM
I know you don't want to continue on the RX-7 path, (why? ) but....

Just feeling it's time to move on to something else. There's lots o' stuff to drive out there, and so little time.

Quote:

Instead of getting another GSL, if the axle is straight, and the mounting components are responsible, just get rid of the Watts and convert it to a Panhard set up. (If you're going to have to dork around with it, at least move frward!)

(Assuming it's an ITA car)

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Well, it is Spec-RX right now, so my plan would be to keep it spec and sell it. If I do keep it, I would agree that the tri-link setup would be the way to go and prep for ita/7. But then I'd have to go up against Dewie over here, and.... well.... that would just be a no-win situation :smilie_pokal:

On that note, do the tri-link setups use any of the existing mounting locations, or is it all weld up? It was suggested that the most likely bending would occur at the Watts link mounts on the frame. Will have to check that out too.
10-05-2005, 12:05 PM
ddewhurst

***On that note, do the tri-link setups use any of the existing mounting locations, or is it all weld up? ***

Steve, no existing mounting locations are used for the Tri-Link. A couple mounting tabs need to be welded to the pumkin & at the front location for the G-Force Tri-Link you locate, drill holes & use bolts. IMHJ using a Tri-Link with the Wats link is wasted energy. You should also add a Panhard bar to replace the Watts link. I have a ISC Racing Panhard bar. The bar attaches to the chassis on the drivers side & leaves the passengers side open for an over the axle exhaust without special crap. My over the axle is 3 inch diameter.

Hey if Dewie ain't around for competition Mike Picko & Kelly from MN. will be. I am thinking 2nd gen ITS. :blink:
10-05-2005, 05:16 PM
jake7140

Quote:

Originally posted by ddewhurst@Oct 5 2005, 04:05 PM
.... I am thinking 2nd gen ITS. :blink:

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Need a good car to start with??? 91 gxl, It's a sunroof tho.
10-06-2005, 01:50 AM
Chris Taylor

Quote:

Originally posted by ddewhurst@Oct 5 2005, 04:05 PM
The bar attaches to the chassis on the drivers side & leaves the passengers side open for an over the axle exhaust without special crap. My over the axle is 3 inch diameter.

The last car I put a G-Force setup on the exhaust fit just fine after the install... fuel cell had to be moved, though. :023:

It was an SDJ Header, the system was off Prather's EP car, FWIW.
10-06-2005, 08:18 AM
ddewhurst

Chris, when one understands the end result function of the Panhard bar along with doing an analysis of the tracks one races on there is solid functional reason one chooses the right side or the left side of the chassis to mount the bar. A larger reason than exhaust clearance. ;)