Both feet in

[Topher]

My bran spankin’ new Regional Competition license came in the mail and is burning a hole in my pocket. I’m jumping into club racing this season and need some expert guidance.

A little about me: I live in Athens, GA. and plan to compete in Improved Touring in the Southeast division.
I figure to spend $10-15k on a tow vehicle, $3-5k on an enclosed trailer, and $5-10K on a starter car, and $5-10K for an annual racing budget.

First, everything but the car.

Safety Equipment:
Drivers suit- How much suit do I need? I don’t want to skimp on safety equipment, nor do I want to buy way more suit than necessary. What is the difference between a $700 suit and a $1400 suit? What features should I look for- 2 vs. 3 layer, liner material, boot cut vs. cuffed, weight in gm/sqmt, brands, places to buy?

I also need nomex socks, underwear and a shirt- don’t I? Shoes and gloves- any recommendations?

I tend to get hot, and as I will be in the southeast- should I consider a cool shirt system off the bat, or wait and see?

The dreaded H&N restraint device- HANS vs. Safety Solutions vs. Simpson. Doesn’t the HANS require a specific seat type and belts? Where did that dang goaheadtakethewheel article go?

Getting the car there:

Enclosed trailer- I found a thread on sccaforums on towing that was helpful.

Anything to add? What size (20 vs. 24), what features (lighting, wench, entry ramp, sway control, axles and brakes), what are reliable brands I can get in the Atlanta area?

A 20’ trailer won’t fit in a standard 3 car garage, will it? Options for storing the car and/or trailer offsite?

Tow vehicle- If a 24’ weighs about 4000lbs and the car weighs about 3000lbs then I need about 8000 lbs of towing capacity, right? If I’m looking for a crew cab truck with 50-75k miles on it with this much capacity, what are my options? Ford F150, GMC Sierra 1500, Dodge Ram 1500, Toyota Tundra, anything else? Gas vs. Diesel? Rear wheel drive, four wheel drive?
I won’t be using it for a daily driver, only to haul to 6-8 events/yr.

The Race weekend:
Who crews for you? Hire a local mechanic for the weekend? Bribe my mechanically inclined friends? What options are available for track side mechanical support and then for repairs and maintenance when I’m not racing? How long are you at the track for a race weekend?

The car:
I want to purchase a built, turn key car that I can start racing immediately. So many options on the classifieds- RX-7, ITA miata, ITA Focus or Neon. If you were starting from scratch what would you choose? How do I ensure that the car is legal in its class? How do you test drive a race car? Who can I get to inspect and tech it prior to racing? What does the logbook include?

Race Events:
What events can I compete in with a regional license? What is the difference between IT and Pro-IT? What is an ECR race- does it include IT classes? What is a double national?

And Finally- is it worthwhile to rent a car for the first few races? How much does this cost? I don’t want to spend what could be ½ of my car budget on a one weekend rental. What are some reputable teams to rent from in the southeast?

If there is anyone in the SEDiv that would be willing to spare an hour or so on the phone or at the next event, please let me know.

Thanks,

Topher

[mbuskuhl]

That's alot of questions in a single post, you might get a better response if you keep it to just a few at a time. I added some answers below and when it says "Google" that just means the question has a million answers/opinion and you'll get the most information to answer the question on Google.

Welcome to racing.


Safety Equipment:
Drivers suit- How much suit do I need? I don’t want to skimp on safety equipment, nor do I want to buy way more suit than necessary. What is the difference between a $700 suit and a $1400 suit? What features should I look for- 2 vs. 3 layer, liner material, boot cut vs. cuffed, weight in gm/sqmt, brands, places to buy?
- Google

I also need nomex socks, underwear and a shirt- don’t I? Shoes and gloves- any recommendations?
- Socks yes, underwear not necessarily - read the GCR when it is required. Google.

I tend to get hot, and as I will be in the southeast- should I consider a cool shirt system off the bat, or wait and see?
- Yes, buy one. One of the best purchases you'll ever make.

The dreaded H&N restraint device- HANS vs. Safety Solutions vs. Simpson. Doesn’t the HANS require a specific seat type and belts? Where did that dang goaheadtakethewheel article go?
-No, not specific seat or belt required but there are HANS only belts. Google.
http://www.goaheadtakethewheel.com/

Getting the car there:

Enclosed trailer- I found a thread on sccaforums on towing that was helpful.

Anything to add? What size (20 vs. 24), what features (lighting, wench, entry ramp, sway control, axles and brakes), what are reliable brands I can get in the Atlanta area?
- Get the 24 and that's from someone who didn't listen to others and bought a 20

A 20’ trailer won’t fit in a standard 3 car garage, will it? Options for storing the car and/or trailer offsite?
-No. Storage lot or self storage.

Tow vehicle- If a 24’ weighs about 4000lbs and the car weighs about 3000lbs then I need about 8000 lbs of towing capacity, right? If I’m looking for a crew cab truck with 50-75k miles on it with this much capacity, what are my options? Ford F150, GMC Sierra 1500, Dodge Ram 1500, Toyota Tundra, anything else? Gas vs. Diesel? Rear wheel drive, four wheel drive?
I won’t be using it for a daily driver, only to haul to 6-8 events/yr.
- Like you I needed a truck for towing only, I had a daily drive. Got a Ram 1500, totaled it towing home from a race when it didn't stop in time. Decided never a half ton to tow again and got a gas F250. Hated towing with it. Finally decided screw it and got a F250 PSD 4x4 Crew and now I daily drive it and love it. My last daily was German. Bottom line, get a 3/4 ton diesel and 2wd is fine.

The Race weekend:
Who crews for you? Hire a local mechanic for the weekend? Bribe my mechanically inclined friends? What options are available for track side mechanical support and then for repairs and maintenance when I’m not racing? How long are you at the track for a race weekend?
- I've never had crew and am just fine with it that way. If you need a hand there are plenty of people around willing to help.

The car:
I want to purchase a built, turn key car that I can start racing immediately. So many options on the classifieds- RX-7, ITA miata, ITA Focus or Neon. If you were starting from scratch what would you choose? How do I ensure that the car is legal in its class? How do you test drive a race car? Who can I get to inspect and tech it prior to racing? What does the logbook include?
-ITS RX-7 or Miata. Read the GCR and learn the car then you know whether it's legal or not. Test drive it at the track or on a dyno. Visual inspection and reputation of seller. Call your region to see about local tech. A logbook has basic car info and your roll bar number. It gets signed at each event.

Race Events:
What events can I compete in with a regional license? What is the difference between IT and Pro-IT? What is an ECR race- does it include IT classes? What is a double national?
- Regional events. No Pro-IT or ECR here so don't know. Double National or NN is two national races in one weekend (Sat and Sun). IT is a regional class only and you have a regional only license. You won't be doing any National (N) or NN races. Double Rationals are a new thing - Regional and National on the same weekend on the track in the same groups at the same time. You can do those.

And Finally- is it worthwhile to rent a car for the first few races? How much does this cost? I don’t want to spend what could be ½ of my car budget on a one weekend rental. What are some reputable teams to rent from in the southeast?
- IMO no. Rentals are about $1000+/weekend, better ones closer to $1500+. Since used race cars are worth nothing in comparison to what they cost to build, just buy one. $5k will get you a decent IT car and $10k will buy you a nice one. You can sell it a year later and break even or only lose a few bucks if you bought right.

If there is anyone in the SEDiv that would be willing to spare an hour or so on the phone or at the next event, please let me know.
-I'm of no help in the SOWDIV but I bet one of the SEDIV people will be willing to help with the local culture.

[MMiskoe]

I’m jumping into club racing this season and need some expert guidance.


A couple of quick comments:

Good to see you have a realisitc veiw of what it is going to take to get into it. You will have a much better time with it in the long run since your eyes are open at the start.

Trailer - for a long time I used an open trailer. Many people still do. It still is not likely to fit in your single car garage (they are wider than you think), but attracts much less attention parked off to the side. Cheaper, easier to tow (read less truck needed).

Crew - agreed, I rarely have dedicated crew with me and it is fine. Don't let this be a big worry. If you can feed people, you will have friends at the track.

Which car to buy? - go to the track or look at results sheets and see what classes appear to be well subscribed and with what kind of cars. Then look at the prep levels allowed in the those classes to see how much time is needed fixing & building custom parts.

How long are you at the track? - when you're in race group 1 you never have enough time in the morning, but you're all done early in the day. When you're in the last run group you get to the track too early and feel like it will be after dinner before your group goes out. Friday's are for getting to the track, get home all wrung out and tired late Sunday and drag into work Monday w/ a big grin.

We're all experts here!

Good luck with it.

[JLawton]

Yes, go back to Dave's book/website, Go Ahead and Take the Wheel. I a lot of that information is covered.

Become friends (even if you have to bribe them with beer) with someone who is experienced and fast who lives near you. Paddock with them at the races. Best way to learn.

I wouldn't tow an inclosed without a Heavy Duty. 250 or 2500 at least. Tow vehicles are like horse power. You can never have too much.

Good luck!!

[Eagle7]

I tend to get hot, and as I will be in the southeast- should I consider a cool shirt system off the bat, or wait and see?
I ran 8 years with a helmet blower, then last summer switched to a cool shirt. After two weekends with it I think it was the single best decision I've made.

[seckerich]

Not playing yet, just to perfect a setup after recent threads. :birra:

[faketree]

And Finally- is it worthwhile to rent a car for the first few races? How much does this cost? I don’t want to spend what could be ½ of my car budget on a one weekend rental. What are some reputable teams to rent from in the southeast?




Contact Tom Fowler at OPM Autospors in Cumming, GA. He has Miatas, Integras, CRXs for rent and can provide you with support of most any of the Southeast races. 770-886-8199

[Flyinglizard]

You first have to prioritize your racing goals. Do you want to become a better driver or bag trophies? If you want trophies, get a small car in an under-subscribed class . ITC or so.
If you want to become a better racer, go to big classes. IE; SM or ITA.
Sounds as tho you are not happy fixing a car, the Miata is more for you.
I have 5 or 6 race cars run from my shop, the Miata we just change the oil, pads and wheel bearings. The cost per hour is un beatable. The racing is good. You will have instant feedback on your driving and racing skills. The first 3 cars will lap you ,if you are a beginner.
You may never get a trophy.

The racing cost per hr is directly proportional to race car mass. A 3000# car will cost about 2-3x the amount of a 2000# car. Or more.
That starts the whole domino effect on trailers, tow trucks, tires, etc.
IE, I tow a long way over most weekends, I use a VW race car or Miata, and tow with a 2011 Chevy 2500 Van on an open (3600# gross) trailer. I get 15.4 MPG @ 75 mph. on gas.
I recommend a trailer/ truck combo that keeps the tires and fuel out of the tow truck. My van locks up tight. The fuel goes in the back or seat, of the race cars.
Pickups tow nicer, ride better and are quieter. Vans keep the stuff dry and locked.
If your race trailer and car weighs under around 6000#, you could rent a truck per weekend, as needed. The Miata looks good there also.
If I was starting out again and I had some cash, I would consider the SRF class . The value is retained well and the racing is very good. You can t do many major repairs your self, sealed engines. Sealed engines are good for racing,IMHO.
M

[jumbojimbo]

Not playing yet, just to perfect a setup after recent threads. :birra:

Occupation: Vascular Surgeon?

Good questions, but hard to beleive that someone knowing enough to ask them wouldn't already know the answers or have the ability to find them in 15 minutes of searching. Except the questions about IT/PRO-IT/SAARC/ECR. Nobody understands that.

I suppose it is possible this is on the level, but I'd like to see a name and an explanation of current experience, (IE, how do you know this stuff to start with) before I waste my time answering anything beyond http://www.goaheadtakethewheel.com/ (http://www.goaheadtakethewheel.com/)

Edit: no offense intended Topher if you are for real. And just to prove it I'll give you this advice, check results of any car you are looking to buy. mylaps.com, check for % of DNF and consistently competetive lap times. I'm pretty sure if you do, you won't mention ITA Focus again.

[Darryl Pritchett]

Im in the SEDIV and would be more then willing to give you some help. In fact will be at Sebring next weekend and you are more then welcome to come hang out. 386-848-5129.

[chuck baader]

Road Atlanta in March will be a big race. National and Regional and lots of cars to look at the build quality and competitiveness. Look me up (I generally park down by the creek...#36 ITA BMW) and I'll be glad to answer any questions you may still have. Chuck

[Topher]

Faketree- I ran across OPM, it might be a good way to get my feet wet prior to deciding on a car and class, if the price is right.

FlyingLizard- Definitely in it for the driving, not the hardware. The Miata is attractive, large fields of cars, good support. A well sorted car runs more in the $10-15k range, from what I've seen. After watching the AARC I'm a little gun shy. My impression is that there are some deep pocket teams that don't mind banging fenders. Might not be the ideal place for a rookie to start. Am I wrong on that one?

I'll probably go with a truck, given the hauling utility around the house. Now its the open vs. closed trailer debate and deciding on how much truck I need. I'll probably store the trailer offsite, and keep the car in the garage when I'm working on it. Why the gas and tires out of the tow vehicle- theft, or safety?

Jimbo- *sigh* I have done my homework and my questions are real.

I've read Dave Gran's articles multiple times. It is helpful, but does not answer enough specifics. I signed up for the mentor program. Again, helpful, but I was assigned a mentor that does not race in IT or even the SCCA.

I've also flagged a race and tried to talk to drivers in person. I was met with a less than friendly attitude when I wasn't interested in purchasing the guy's car. Perhaps it was just who I was unfortunate enough to approach in the paddock.

Hence the reason why I'm crowdsourcing on the forum. There is a ton of info out there, both in Sportscar articles and buried in various message boards. But nothing beats the opportunity to talk to guys who are doing it weekend in a weekend out. I want to learn from their mistakes instead of trying to reinvent the wheel.

So thanks to everyone who has chipped in so far. Darryl- expect a call soon. Prob won't make it to Seabring (9 hr drive!).
Chuck- I'm on call that weekend, but will try to get down there.

I've had people question my credentials before, but never on a racing forum. Yes, I'm a vascular surgeon.
Go to health grades and search Christopher Everett Athens, Ga.

I would refer you to my practice's website but its about 10 years out of date and looks like it was designed by a 5 year old. Should have a new one up in a few weeks.

[RacerBill]

Topher: I would look at Grassroots Motorsports as a source of info. Their name says it all.

[tyler raatz]

Topher, I run a multi car team out of Atlanta region. I have affordable rentals available including an ITA Honda Civic, ITA Miata, Spec Miata, and a STL/EP Miata. I would be happy to answer any questions you have. PM if yo would like my contact info or rental info.

Tyler Raatz
RoadRace Gear
Arrive and drive rentals

[bhudson]

ECR is a Southeast Division endurance race series - race length varies but is usually 90 minutes with mandatory 5 minute pit stop. ProIT is an Atlanta Region series for IT cars (Spec Miatas also run as ISM) races are 45 minutes, no pit stop; pays money at the end of the year.

With a regional license you can run any regional SCCA races. Most regional races in the SEDIV are part of the South Atlantic Road Racing Championship (SARRC). You can also run in ECR's and ProIT. You may not run National races unless you have a National license and a car that prepped for a National class. A regional license will usually allow you to run in a concurrent Regional/National, commonly referred to as a "Rational."

Get a copy of "Go Ahead Take The Wheel." I wish it had been around when I was racing. Read the General Competition Rules (GCR). The size makes it look daunting, but it's important that you understand the rules. The unofficial "condensed" version written by John Nesbitt is very helpful for new drivers. It's available on the scca.com site. I believe the link is under Club Racing, then Cars & Rules.

[Chip42]

I'm in orlando so a bit far to be of much help in person on a regular basis, but I'd look at the following:

Look at hondas and mazdas. in whatever class, their racer support programs are first class (meaning you get halep with tech and parts costs)and their cars are excelent with few exceptions. Both makes also have huge numbers currently racing, so there's a lot of built cars and established knoweldge for the more popular models to help you get started.

you seem focussed on IT, which is smart - good competition, a wide variety of cars, reasonable costs, stable rules. I'd keep a specific class in mind when you make your decisions - basically, what's the level of competition and speed that you find most attractive?

so, with that in mind, look at the 3rd gen Integra GSR, 2nd gen RX7, NB/NC miata/MX5, 99-00 Civic Si, 2.2 and 2.3L Preludes for ITS. 2nd gen Integras and 3rd gen integra LS, CRX, NA (popup headlight) miatas, and various civics for ITA. 1.5L civics, accord LXi, older preludes, protege, and VWs for ITB (Tristen Herberts ARRC winning Golf GTI, for sale now, is a GREAT buy here but VWs make great ITB cars and are the one easy button suggestion outside of honda or mazda I'll make,and they do have a contingency program of some sort). I think ITA/S are the most popular in your area, so you might want to focus there.

trailering info is pretty good so far: 250/2500+ with enclosed trailer, you can get away with less using an open trailer, and you can never have too much truck, but easily can have too little, especially when you need it most. especially with the topography you will be seeing, I'd go bigger on the truck than your first instinct probobly suggests.

and if you would like to discuss IT, SCCA in general, etc... please feel free to email me (link in sig) or call me in the evenings at 407-six17-791eight

[tom_sprecher]

The best advice I can give you is to buy my car.

http://www.improvedtouring.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29956

It includes everything you need to go IT racing, I'm located in Marietta, and am willing to negotiate on price.

What's not to like?

[coreyehcx]

I just went through pretty much everything you are asking for the most part. I have a blog/thread in my link under STL build if you're interested.

I used goaheadtakethewheel, spoke with Dave Gran about a couple things, and did a lot of research on the forums.

Chip and the Trackspeed guys helped me with a lot of things and also helped me this past weekend.

I went with STL partly due to the car I already owned (modified Civic) and completed the double school at RRR this past weekend with Chip and some others.

I was surrounded by spec miatas for the most part and I think if I personally was going to start fresh and just purchase a vehicle, that would be the way to go.

Good luck!

[JeffYoung]

Toper, give me a call when you get a minute (9one9three ARGGHninefivetwothreeYELPonenine).

I'm basically "you" seven years ago. Professional guy, not much mechanical experience, loved racing and just wanted the rush of doing it. That sustained me for the first few years of non-competitiveness and then I wanted to make the big jump up to competitive. I've had a lot of ups and downs, and a lot of help from friends over the years.

As an initial matter, you are asking teh right questions. Here are some answers from my perspective.

Your initial budgeting works. I tow now with a Ram 2500 diesel I bought new in 07 for $33k, but towed for several years with a 99 Suburban 2500 I got for $10k. $10k for a used tow vehicle is reasonable. A newer Tundra, Ram 1500, Ford F-150 or Chevy 1/2 ton will tow 8-9k just fine. Older than the last 5-6 years though and the brakes/chassis might not be up to it.

$10k for a good used IT is spot on. There are several out there for that price now. I'm biased so I'll push ITS, but it is objectively true that ITS is pretty strong -- maybe stronger than any other IT class in the SEDiv right now (although ITA is very strong in the Atlanta region where you are). There are a couple of ITS cars out there that are good cars (a 240sx and a nice RX7) to start with.

$3-4k for a good enclosed is reasonable. I'd go 20 if you can find one. It's plenty of room for a starter trailer. Doubtful you can store it at you house unless you have a parking pad. I pay $120/month to store mine at a storage shed.

Some folks will let you test drive a race car but most won't. I think you are best off buying one that folks around this region "know" to be a good legal car. Once you get it, your local tech inspector (contact Bowie or someone in Atlanta to help you find out who that is) can give it an inspection and yoru "annual" tech. Try to do that BEFORE your first race weekend; nothing worse than showing up and flunking tech and thrashing to make a race.

Regional IT license gets you in all IT events. In the SEDiv we have:

SARRC -- the is the "premiere" year long sprint race series with races from VIR to Daytona to Sebring to Birmingham. Best six finishes count plus the double points year end finally at Roebling. This is my series; very competitive in ITS. 30 min races.

Pro-IT -- 45 min series with small payouts in the Atlanta region. Well run.

CCPS -- 45 min series at CMP in SC and Charlotte.

TarHeel Pro -- New 45 min series at VIR.

ECR -- 1.5 hour or 3 hour enduros. Year long series like SARRC.

Safety. to start, I'd get a cheap three layer suit, the low end OMPs and Sparcos and Momos work fine. With a 3 layer, you don't need underwear but wear it anyway.

Nomex socks you will need.

Crew. It varies for everyone. i started totally by myself, barely knowing how to change brakepads. Somehow, I raced consistently. You can do it yourself, but the best "crew" is having friends at the track (preferably in cars similar to yours) who can help if you have an issue. Most of us in ITS race that way, and help each other when someone has an issue. Good tight group of guys.

I have a friend in Cary who has a lift. He is gracious enough to let me use it some, and I rent a shop near my house for $210/month for "normal" work and parts storage. Find a friend with a lift! lol.....

I also am busy at work, as I suspect you are, and while I do a lot of mechanical work myself, I do farm it out when necessary. Find a local shop you can trust and use them. OPM is top notch.

Call me and we can talk more. And welcome! Of all the things I love about racing, the one I love the most is hanging out with my racing buddies and shooting the shit in the paddock at night after a great day of racing.

[chuck baader]

Chris, One of the first things you need to decide is rear wheel drive or front wheel drive. There are competitive cars in both configurations but the driving dynamics are quite different. You may want to rent each and run for a weekend to see which you like best. Buy vs. build...search this forum for all the arguments for buying. A competitive/winning car will certainly cost more, but realize you are getting more...usually a 99% sorted car so you can go to the track, change tires, check tire pressures, and race. Chuck

[benspeed]

Hey Topher - welcome to the most fun ever. I'm similar to you and Jeff - corporate exec professional guy, got into wheel to wheel racing 11 years ago. You are approaching the whole game very well. Get solid and reliable tow vehicle and trailer. Get a well built ITS car - that's where I started. Its a fast class and allows a lot of growth. Big fields. My suggestion - Buy a 3 series BMW - you can't go wrong and it'll have all kinds of other potential for other classes.

Or go for the Porsche - I think they're the best but you will pay a premium :-)

Keep us posted - this forum is tremendously helpful and we've got some trolls and other oddballs to keep the posts interesting.

[gran racing]

Sorry...work, site, and life have been so crazy lately. I know...blah, blah, blah. I promise that I'll be avail for a call in couple of weeks. :) Your questions are very specific and probably won't be answered by any one general resource. I'll send you an IM.

As far as cars, right now I'd suggest either Tristian's ITB Golf (I'd buy it if circumstances were different) or I'd consider a Miata whatever. This is said from a guy who kinda, sorta, not really has an ITB car for sale which does "okay". Of course it's all driver. LOL

[RacerBowie]

Just read this...

I'm in Winder (which is maybe 20 minutes from him for all 14 of you reading out there) and race ProIT locally in an ITA Miata. Give me a call sometime after 4 (but before 8, as I've got a 2 year old. :o) and we'll talk.

six seven 8 - 5 seven oh - 6 four 99

Bowie

[chewy8000]

I would start with Dave Grans book "Go Ahead take the Wheel" It's where I started 4 years ago... Will answer a lot of your questions. :023:

http://www.goaheadtakethewheel.com/

[RacerBowie]

Alright, I talked the poor guy's ear off this afternoon, so if we never hear from him again we'll know why. :D

[ShelbyRacer]

On the tow vehicle and trailer topic (a dissertation)-

Trailer- Will you have a race support vehicle? Will you be sleeping in it? How much do you want to pack/unpack before/after a weekend? Cabinets? Tool boxes? Gear?

If you will be using the trailer as a home for the weekend, I'd say 24 minimum, or even 28 if you have a support vehicle bigger than a scooter (ATV, golf cart, etc.). I have a 28, and run a small ITB/ITA car (15-ish feet long). Full cabinets in the trailer. 250cc Quad as support. I have a comfortable amount of room to get around everything, and room for coolers, bags, and other niceties. It makes it nice to take my wife and 2 daughters along. If I was alone, I could squeeze it all into a 24, but stuff would touch and rub possibly. I've seen people jam a quad and small car into a 20 or 22, with no built-in cabinets, and stuff was stacked floor to ceiling... My trailer, unlike most other things, is very nicely organized, with a place for everything. Arrive at the track, drop the car and quad out, blow up the matresses, and bed down for the night. Oh, and having two small matresses and one queen size gets tight in anything smaller than a 28... One other nice thing- if you need to pull over and sleep, the 28 is big enough that I can roll the quad back and pull out a sleeping bag, and spend the night on the floor without unloading anything. I bought mine used (looked like new) for $9k, but that's a trailer that costs $15k new... As for source, I'd be leary of the huge NC/GA trailer sources, where you can get a brand new 24' for under $6k. I'd stick with Pace or Haulmark on the low end, Vintage or Motiv (steel version of ATC) in the mid-range, or if you can afford it, go ATC or Featherlite.

One other minor concern- most 20' trailers have 3500 lb. axles. When you get to 22 or 24, you often have 5000 lb. axles available. Make sure you get the heavier setup.

Oh, and no matter what size you get, you'll want bigger. (Yeah, that's a set-up.)

If you are in the flatlands of the south (ha ha) a 1/2 ton would work, but since going to almost any track down there involves some kind of mountain towing, I'd go 3/4 ton. Gas motor will pull even a 28' just fine (especially an aluminum like Featherlite), but diesel will do it very comfortably, last longer, and have much better resale value. Matt Rowe (also on IT.com here) tows a 28' Featherlite (about 8k lbs. loaded) with a 2005 1/2 ton Dodge, and I pull a 28' Vintage (about 10k lbs. loaded) with a 2005 3/4 ton diesel. On the trip back from MidO, I believe he averaged about 9mpg, while I pulled 12, running the length of the PA turnpike (nice mix of hills and flat) together, averaging 65-70 while moving. In a panic situation, I'd rather have the 3/4 ton brakes too...

That all said (told you it was a dissertation), I've seen guys make do just fine with a 20' lightweight towed behind a 4-runner or Dakota... Or a nice van with an open trailer.

[Topher]

Bowie- Thanks for taking the time, it was very helpful. I'm trying to arrange my schedule and attend the March event at RA. If I find a car I can't live without I might take you up on that offer to borrow your open trailer. I'll barter you for a free Carotid operation.

Matt- The part I found most surprising about your post was that your are able to convince not only your daughters but also your wife to camp out in a trailer for the weekend. Don't think I'll have any such luck with my Fiancee. Not without spa service.....

I had not considered a support vehicle. Storage space for the car, a tire rack, tools, and gear would be nice. Speaking of- essential tool list? Jack and stands, air compressor and tank, a winch?

[Chip42]

tools:

aside from the obvious hand tools, make sure you have some decent pry bars and big hammers in the trailer. you'll know why as soon as you need them.

the air tools are great if you have them. if you plan to use the air for more than filling tires then I'd recommend a 30 gal or better tank. cutoff wheels and air body saws are great to have handy, as is the impact gun. of course, this presumes you will have power, so make sure to have some quality extension cords and you might as well have some lights - a drop light and a flood on a stand or mounted on or into the side of the trailer.

jack, stands, and 1/2" plywood cut to 1x1ft squares to place under the jack stands when paddocked on turf. a long board from the same material to use as a runway for the jack is also handy. the squares can store and transport in a milk crate and the runner can usually be stowed against a wall or under the car.

a decent folding table and canopy (easy up) for light bench work, lunch, etc...

dry erase board on the trailer door for notes, with a cork board or clip for sups, schedule, etc...

drain pan, rags, brake clean, fluids, and appropriate storage. stacking bins work well, and you can locate them with some angle aluminum on the trailer floor. drill a hole for a tie down if needed.

a winch is nice but tends to take up a lot of room in the trailer by denying use of wall space. it's also not needed if you have a small crew all of the time or make friends, which you will. besides, not having one is further incentive to keep the car able to drive itself onto the trailer.

[lawtonglenn]

...make sure you have some decent pry bars and big hammers in the trailer...


A version of Murphy's law: Whatever tool you need will be the one you forgot to bring

Corollary: Whatever tool you bring you will not need

Conclusion: Since I don't want to be prying bent bodywork off the tires, I had better bring a big prybar

.

[gran racing]

Damn, you really are going both feet in on this. With all that you're talking about, it almost seems like an arrive and drive deal would be something to consider. No tow vehicle, big trailer, tools, working on the car...

Here's (http://www.goaheadtakethewheel.com/build-repairs-maintenance/tools-needed-to-work-on-a-racecar.php) a basic tool list that I had put together. Best advice I have is make friends with people you race with and you'll never be lacking a tool. On multiple occasions I've wanted to throw in the towel and call it a weekend only to have one of my competitors come over and get things repaired.

[JLawton]

. Speaking of- essential tool list? Jack and stands, air compressor and tank, a winch?

You'll learn as you go. Plus, some cars have their specific warts and may do a lot of working on those warts at the track.

but you can always count on other guys in the paddock having just about any tool you'll need if you need to borrow something in an emergency.

one of the good things about buying a car like a Miata is that there will be a hundred other Miata racers in the paddock and you'll be able to borrow any spare you can imagine......

[dickita15]

The tools and part you carry with you are directly related to what you think you can see yourself fixing in the paddock. As you get more experience that list grows. I would now do thrashes to get a car back going that I never would have considered 10 years ago.
Don’t discount what Dave says about borrowing parts and tools. It is pretty amazing how competitors often rally around to get someone back on course.
If I was going to give one piece of advice before picking a class or car it would be to find people I like to hang out with and then but the same thing they run. This makes for a huge shortening of the learning curve.

[JeffYoung]

VIR has a spa.....





Matt- The part I found most surprising about your post was that your are able to convince not only your daughters but also your wife to camp out in a trailer for the weekend. Don't think I'll have any such luck with my Fiancee. Not without spa service.....

[preparedcivic]

I've been reading through and admire your enthusiasm and earnestness to shall we say, cannonball into the deep end of the pool. :)

If I was starting with a blank check, but to keep things reasonably economical, here's how I'd go about it. This is from doing this play with cars thing for 25+ years starting when I was in my early 20's:

* Truck - if DD'ing, and these days they are pretty plush, a heavy 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton extended or crew cab, depending on how much of a back seat is needed. As new as possible, with the most powerful gas engine and shortest gears avaiable. If only towing, buy used. Look for an 04-06 3/4 ton from any of the Big 3. $10-12k should net you a decent truck that will last in this role a good many years.

* Trailer - Reasonably sized enclosed is the way to go. I have a 20' with front cabinets for an 18' floor length and it works fine, but then I race a CRX and a Civic; OAL of 12.5'. I see no reason to go more than 24'. The trailer can double as a garage bay for the race car, and also as said, sleeping quarters at the track.

* Race Car - We are all obviously partial to IT cars here. And there are lots of deals to be had given the economy. To get your feet wet and your water wings under you, I would buy something that is cheap, reliable and easy to work on. Two years ago I bought an ITB '87 CRX for $4500 with a pile of spares. It has gotten both me and my son licensed, only having one real mechanical failure (tranny) where I got to learn how to rebuild one from stealing the bustificated part from the spare that came with the car. Other than that, it was only been normal race car maintenance (brakes/bearings/hubs) and a couple of small things, over 16 race weekends the past two years. Honestly, I'd look for a deal like that. Once you are settled into a race routine, then a decision can be made to start making improvements to the car, or to buy something bigger/faster/blingier.

* Tools and Parts - At the track I have the basic repair parts: brakes, spare hubs, radius arms, tie rod ends, plugs, cap, rotor, axles, and spare wheels and tires. All carried around in a bunch of plastic tubs. Occassionally I do bring a spare tranny with me. The most I've ever done at the track are hubs and brakes. And those hub changes usually end up getting done 15 minutes before needing to be in false grid.....Tool wise, Sears sells a great 250 piece set all nested in it's own toolbox. Best thing I ever bought. I also carry small and large floor jacks, a couple of breaker bars, a cheater pipe for when 1000 ft-lbs of torque is needed to bust a nut loose, and an assortment of various glues, epoxies, gasket goop and sealers. Example: at Watkins Glen last October, I discovered a small CV joint boot tear. Rather then swap the axle, a friendly competitor suggested to get some grease in there, clean it up and super glue it. Did the arts and crafts project at the start of beer time Saturday night, and the fix held all through the 45 minute race the next day, as well as a full double-dip 8 session race weekend 3 weeks later that the kid and I ran. Mr. Murphy's laws and order will always leave you without the exact thing needed to fix a problem, but people you have never met before will jump in to help, usually with exactly what is required.

[Racerlinn]

Don't forget your beer budget.

[ShelbyRacer]

a winch is nice but tends to take up a lot of room in the trailer by denying use of wall space. it's also not needed if you have a small crew all of the time or make friends, which you will. besides, not having one is further incentive to keep the car able to drive itself onto the trailer.

My winch is mounted to the side, with a D-ring in the center to which I attach a snatch block to pull straight in. I haven't needed it yet, but I'm glad I have it just in case.


An addition to Glen's law and corollary post: If you make too many comments about how you won't need your recently purchased Porta-Power since you now have it, you will be rammed off at MidO and actually need it.

Sorry. Too specific?

[preparedcivic]

Actually, Matt does make a sort of good point in a way. You really have to be psychologically prepared to get your shit whacked, at times through no cause or fault of your own.

I caught that mentioned Mid-Ohio incident live on my video camera, as he and I were having a decent scrap when slowish ITS car caught us and managed to drive into his side going through Madness.

[bhudson]

tools:

jack, stands, and 1/2" plywood cut to 1x1ft squares to place under the jack stands when paddocked on turf. a long board from the same material to use as a runway for the jack is also handy. the squares can store and transport in a milk crate and the runner can usually be stowed against a wall or under the car.

.

Road Atlanta, Barber, and other tracks require the plywood squares under jacks & jack stands in the paved paddock to prevent damage to the asphalt.

[ShelbyRacer]

Oh, and if you intend to have electricity in the trailer, get a *shitload* (TM) of cords. HEAVY ones. Or make your own :)

Oh, and a 20" box fan on a 600W inverter will pull down a decent size deep cycle battery in about an hour or two less than you want to sleep.

And Topher, it's a lot easier to deal with these expenses if you can get the family to buy in. You will actually find quite a community of racers' wives and kids at the track. It's really nice when they look forward to going to a race almost as much as you do...

[Topher]

Good stuff, everyone. Thanks for the input. Simple, small things like having plywood for the jack stands can make for a much smoother race weekend.

My plan:

Purchase safety gear in the next week or two.

Buy an ITA, ITB, or ITS car, borrow a truck and trailer to haul home (bribe friends with beer).

Scramble to make the March Pro-IT at Road Atlanta.

I may rent my first ride if I can't get everything together in time.

[chuck baader]

Suggestion...on the jack stands, cut a piece of .080" steel and have welded to the bottom of each stand. One less thing you have to keep up with. Chuck

[Hotshoe]

Alright, I talked the poor guy's ear off this afternoon, so if we never hear from him again we'll know why. :D

...Oh No...........Not Bowie........ Yeah, he's gone...:blink:

[MSPERBER]

Ok I have followed this and so much of this is great advise, go buy your personal gear, make it the best you can find that it's comfortable, but don't you dare buy and jump in to racing at rd Atlanta with the pro it group with your first car all in less than a month. You have some of the best available rental groups in Atlanta with wonderful equipment. Rent, rent , rent for a season for a few races , ensure that you love it, make sure your better half at least likes it an can support it or a tolerates it. Buy later the deal is always out there. Enclosed trailer is great, I have been using on open with a shell on the back of the truck for 15 years, it can be done. Rd Atlanta was my home track for 10 years, VIR is now home. Everyone at rd Atlanta helped keep my two pos's running long after they should have been, I went from ITC to ITB now running an ITA. The learning curve that teams like OPM offers can not be estimated. Rent now buy later.

[evanwebb]

Or, just do what I did when I started in 1992. Drive the race car to the track with the tires and tools and crap all stuffed in there with you, and unbolt the muffler and swap the tires and have at it. I did this coming from Baltimore and raced at Charlotte, Summit Point, Nelson Ledges, Mid-Ohio, Pocono... And I drove it home every time :-) Coming back from Charlotte at about 3AM Monday morning I was so tired that I was hallucinating and I pulled off to the side because there was a dragon in the road.

On second thought, no, don't do that.

[JS154]

A version of Murphy's law: Whatever tool OR SPARE PART you need will be the one you forgot to bring

Corollary: Whatever tool OR SPARE PART you bring you will not need

Conclusion: Since I don't want to be prying bent bodywork off the tires, OR REPLACING ENGINES AT THE RUNOFFS I had better bring a big prybar AND A COMPLETE SPARE ENGINE WITH ANCILLARIES

.

Fixed for you. :-)

Eric Heinrich
GULF E30 M3
STU

[JS154]

Ok I have some insights on the tow vehicle and the trailer.

for the tow vehicle, consider things like

adjustable headlights
color of interior gauge lights (red is easy on eyes, white, not so much)
mileage
range - look at fuel tank sizes available
interior cab space

whatever you do, get a weight distributing hitch and a sway controller. Makes huge difference in making towing easier.

for the trailer - I am going to politely disagree with ShebyRacer's trailer assessment of trailer needs.

I have a 22' enclosed steel frame trailer. Haulmark. It's a 22' box on a 20' frame -when you look at trailers, look at LOA tip-to-tail. What i found is 24' and up is a big step up in weight, GVWR, and required towing capability of the tow vehicle.

That siad, I'm pulling a 2400# (dry, empty) STU car, with a spare engine, 5 sets of wheels and tires, tools, cabinets, pipe canopy (love the pipe canopy, even though it takes extra time to set up!) 55 gal fuel barrell, etc etec. I bring a bicycle for a paddock vehicle, or just drive thr truck (5.7L tundra, huge cab, comfortable tows like a champ, but sucky mileage and range (small fuel tank))

When we have *everything* packed in, fuel barrel and spare engine, yeah it;s a snug fit, but it definitely works. And even loaded up it doesn;t require a bigger heavier truck like a 350/3500 or a deisel dually. The extra 2' come from the bigger box on the 20' frame, so it tows like a 20' trailer.

keep a trailer ramp handy and a 12v impact and a spare tire (or two) within easy reach, for when you eventually get a flat

I've slept in the trailer (keep a folding cot and sleeping bag and blanket packed away) at NJMP in the late spring and NHMS in late October. The wife, when she comes with me, will have no part of that whatsovere, so we get a room somewhere. Most tracks have showers - (Mt Tremblant and Lime Rock do not!) SunSHower bag works in a pinch.


when you are looking at trailers, look at LOA, axle rating, type of axles, curb weight. It;s got to make sense, a 28' trailer with a 7000# GVWR is going to be cheap for a reason.
aluminum trailers are more expensive than steel trailers. canpoies - pipe canopies are cheap and allow tons of flexibility, and can be easily added to any trailer, so don't overpay for a canopy. Holliday or ShelterSystems wold be good to look into.

if you;re buying a used trailer, plan on replacing all the tires including the sapre immediately unless they are new. if you're handy with wiring, installing a high mounted chaepo foglight pointing down, on the back of the trailer, wired to your backup ligts will make life easier backing in the dark and helps people behind you know when you are reversing.
----

Congrats on getting your license!

the best thing you can do is decide what you want to get out of racing - do you have a particular car/brand you want to race, are you looking to just get out and race for fun, are you really into winning against the best? read the rules for the different classes carefully - some cars can crossover well into other classes - IT cars, for example, can run in ST...but there are some exxceptions.

Whtever you do - dive right in. Life is short, enjoy it while you can.

Because Racecar, right?

Eric Heinrich

GULF E30 M3
STU

[ShelbyRacer]

for the trailer - I am going to politely disagree with ShebyRacer's trailer assessment of trailer needs.

...

Whtever you do - dive right in. Life is short, enjoy it while you can.

Because Racecar, right?

Eric Heinrich

GULF E30 M3
STU

Actually Eric, I don't think we disagree on the trailer, we just have different philosopies, and our trailers support that. I think that more than anything, someone needs to hear a bunch of different "what works for me" stories, and then decide what they need to work...

And as for your closing thoughts, I could not agree with you more!

Topher, when are you coming up to visit those of us that are closer to the Mason-Dixon line?

[Topher]

Eric and Matt- It sounds like there is a lot a variability in trailers and rigs, tailored to individual needs. Hearing what works for you guys is very helpful.

Once I get all the pieces together I'll let you know when I'm headed up that way. VIR is about a 6 hr trek.

Safety gear came today. Woo Hoo! At least I'll look the part...

While the SFA ratings are the same for a 2 and 3 layer suit, why do some racers assert that you need to wear a nomex base layer with a 2 layer but not a 3?

[Chip42]

all SFI suits use the 3.2A/X certification, but you need to wear fireproof underwear if the number after the slash ("X") in SFI 3.2A/X is less than 5. if it's 5 or higher then underwear is optional.

what gear did you wind up getting?

[Topher]

I went with Oakley shoes and carbon x base layer, Hybrid Pro Rage restraint, Alpinestars gloves. Initially got an Alpinestars GP-T suit. It was a little small and heavy, so I'm sending it back for the 3 layer GP-Pro.
I like the cut and features of the OMP suits but would have to be at the Evo or One level for a comparable suit which were a couple hundred bucks more than I wanted to spend.

[chuck baader]

Buy the lightest suit you can stand...you'll thank me during the summer. Also, consider the cool shirt system...you work in AC all the time and summer in a race car takes quite a toll. Chuck

[Topher]

Hello, my name is Topher, and I am a race addict.

I ran a ITA Miata rented from OPM in the Pro-IT series at Road Atlanta this past weekend.

It was the most fun I've ever had. And now I'm officially hooked through the bag and back.

The qualifying/practice session on Friday was an enlightening experience. Getting passed through turn 7 by 4 cars while trying to hold my line was a little hairy.
So was running in the rain Saturday morning for the second qualifying.

By lap 5 of the race I was comfortable with the traffic and having a fantastic time. No where near competitive, but I knocked 7 seconds of my qualifying time on my fastest lap.

Tom and the OPM team were fantastic. Professional, welcoming, and very supportive. The car was well sorted and easy to drive.

By far the best part of the weekend was Saturday night spent cooking out in the paddock with Bowie, Matt, Chuck, and their friends. The IT racing community is definitely a family, and I'm grateful to be a part of it.

Thank you to everyone on the IT.com forums who took the time to post here or talk to me over the phone.

I'll see you guys at the Buck Muse.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee309/topher006/Pro-It%203-17-12/DSCN0664_042.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee309/topher006/Pro-It%203-17-12/DSCN0689_060.jpg

[lateapex911]

^ :023:

[benspeed]

You look like a Pro!

[Andy Bettencourt]

Tom does a great job with his customers! Always someone I like to catch up with when I see him. Great stuff.

[BruceG]

Ok I have followed this and so much of this is great advise, go buy your personal gear, make it the best you can find that it's comfortable, but don't you dare buy and jump in to racing at rd Atlanta with the pro it group with your first car all in less than a month. You have some of the best available rental groups in Atlanta with wonderful equipment. Rent, rent , rent for a season for a few races , ensure that you love it, make sure your better half at least likes it an can support it or a tolerates it. Buy later the deal is always out there. Enclosed trailer is great, I have been using on open with a shell on the back of the truck for 15 years, it can be done. Rd Atlanta was my home track for 10 years, VIR is now home. Everyone at rd Atlanta helped keep my two pos's running long after they should have been, I went from ITC to ITB now running an ITA. The learning curve that teams like OPM offers can not be estimated. Rent now buy later.

Good advice.Seems like Flatout Motorsports offers the same great experience for newbies jumping in to the sport here in New England, as well.:023: