15x6 wheel .........hmmmm?

[philstireservice]

So, after years of listening to the ITB and ITC crowd hope and wish for a wheel to call their own, myself and an associate have set in place a plan for a strong, functional, attractive and for the most part, light 15x6 wheel to offer to the deserving lot of you.

Interested ???

[Aged racer]

Hell yes. There's only so many used Miata wheels left.

4x100?

[philstireservice]

Yep, 4x100
right around 12lbs
30mm offset
silver or black (possibly with a polished lip)
5 spoke (i'm pretty sure)
$115 (most likely)

[StephenB]

Do you get a deal if you purchase them wrapped in a rubber :)

I actually don't need them but this is a GREAT price IMHO!

Stephen

[joeg]

Only 4 X100...ugh!

[RacerBill]

I knew it! As soon as I buy an ITA car to replace the B car, good 15x6's become available. I'm sure that a lot of B and C teams will want to replace some older wheels.

[itracer]

Most likely -- yes. Even the 14x6 are getting hard to find reasonable and light.

[Flyinglizard]

Jason.Please send me a few pics and info onthe Rocc.
Addy in sig.
MM

[Knestis]

I'd be interested for sure, Phil. Keep me updated as the idea moves forward.
K

[philstireservice]

Only 4 X100...ugh!

Just to start.....

[joeg]

Then that's encouraging---please 4X 108.

[Bill Miller]

Pretty cool Phil! :023:

[ShelbyRacer]

Don't forget 5x100...

[ribbie78]

and maybe some 4x114.3 :)

[Jake]

Is this happening? Any ETA? Pics?

[Chip42]

Is this happening? Any ETA? Pics?

They are being made as we speak! taking longer than quoted but we should have notice that they are complete soon. ~ a month after they shouldbe ready to ship.


http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa89/chipperpunk/CR6/CR6silver.jpg

I present to you, the TrackSpeed Motorsports / Phil's Tire Service exclusive D-Force CR6, also avaialble in flat black. Contact phil or myself and we can hook you up!

specs:
15x6"
4x100mm (14mm bore with 60° conical seat)*
35mm offset**
12 lbs (±??)
67mm center bore
single valve stem hole
$115 each

* the wheel has a pocketed hub face to reduce weight so it is only cost effective to retool for 4onXXX bolt patterns. those of you who have 4x108mm hubs (ford, old audi, 928s, etc) speak up! if there's enough interest I'm sure we can make it happen.

**some fitments will require a spacer for caliper clearance, typically 5mm. I have verified A2 and A3 VWs, AW11 MR2 need it, EF/EG hondas and 99-03 (BJ chassis with 4 bolt hubs) protégé do not. I will know about Accord LXi, and older hondas soon. hubcentric rings and spacers available through TrackSpeed, and I believe Phil has them as well. The CR6 wheel is based opn the 15x7 SE30/SM wheel from D-Force and getting the inch out of the width and a FWD offset meant loosing a lot of the available caliper clearance. The upside is that the wheels are much lighter than their 15x7 cousins but still strong, passing the 500kg load test.

[Jake]

Awesomeness! Are there pockets on the back of the mounting face for bolt on spacers? ideally I'd like to run a 15-20mm bolt-on spacer on my AW11, and that would leave some stud sticking out.

[quadzjr]

Awesomeness! Are there pockets on the back of the mounting face for bolt on spacers? ideally I'd like to run a 15-20mm bolt-on spacer on my AW11, and that would leave some stud sticking out.

not necessarily for spacers but they would be in the best location to allow room fot bolt on spacers. I do not believe there would be enough room to clear a normal sized nut. I could be wrong.

If you are running that large of spacer, you can get spacers that have pockets for the nuts to fit below the spacer surface. I believe Chip has them on his MR2.

[Jake]

Yah - that's the kind I'm talking about. The stud may still protrude 10mm or so.

Sounds like me and Chip need to talk. I'm looking at pulling my old IT MR2 out of storage...

[Chip42]

Jake, My ITB MR2 is #22 so we definitely need to talk!

I have 15mm spacers on the car now with miata wheels (45mm offset, so 30 combined). I think 15 and the CR6 (20mm offset combined) will be too little offset for the fenders, but that might depend on your ride height.

the ones I use are made to bolt to the hub and have additional stud, but I knocked out the second set of studs and just use longer studs in the hubs and bolt it all together with the lugs (I do use the thin lugnuts to hold the spacer to the hub behind the wheel for ease of use). plenty of thread engagement with this setup. ARP studs for Lexus IS300 (PN 100-7715) fit the AW11 and are ~2" long when installed with rotors. twosRus.com usually has them in stock. not sure if the bolt-on spacer/bolt wheel to spacer setup will fit, I don't have a set of stock lug hubs with rotors handy, but it looks close. worst case you try it and convert to ARPs if it doesn't work.

[Jake]

Thanks Chip! I haven't run my MR2 since it changed to ITB. I used to run 14x7 revolution wheels with a 25mm offset (anybody want em?) with a 225/50 Hoosier. It fit perfectly with the drop I have - and about a -3deg camber all around. So with 10mm less tire each side and 10mm less offset - a 20 mm spacer will get me back where I was. It's probably. not necessary to go all the way there - but thick spacers make me a bit nervous without another set of bolts.

[Chip42]

but thick spacers make me a bit nervous without another set of bolts.

hub-cebtric spacer and wheel keeps misalignment down to near zero. using nuts to secure the spacer to the hub on elongated studs adds a small margin of safety and can be accomodated on thick spacers. doubling the number of bolts doubles the number of failure points for all failure modes associated with the studs, as well as noting that the wheel studs are pressed into aluminum and that a small misalignment of the wheel means a greater angular deformation of the "second" stud than the same misalignment and long studs (because of the spacer). that greater angle is supported in the steel into aluminum press fit which is much weaker than the steel-steel press fit at the hub.

generally this all works out to be plenty safe and strong enough, but why add the weight and complexity when, if done right, long studs through the spacer are the better solution in all respects except maybe cost, which isn't at all prohibitive?

[DoubleXL240Z]

hub-cebtric spacer and wheel keeps misalignment down to near zero. using nuts to secure the spacer to the hub on elongated studs adds a small margin of safety and can be accomodated on thick spacers. doubling the number of bolts doubles the number of failure points for all failure modes associated with the studs, as well as noting that the wheel studs are pressed into aluminum and that a small misalignment of the wheel means a greater angular deformation of the "second" stud than the same misalignment and long studs (because of the spacer). that greater angle is supported in the steel into aluminum press fit which is much weaker than the steel-steel press fit at the hub.

generally this all works out to be plenty safe and strong enough, but why add the weight and complexity when, if done right, long studs through the spacer are the better solution in all respects except maybe cost, which isn't at all prohibitive?
:shrug::(:shrug::o

[Jake]

Makes sense. Thanks!