Clutch/PP question

[PSherm]

I've been running an oem replacement type clutch and PP in teh Peon, but last year noticed a bit of slippage on upshifts. For reference, when I upshift, as soon as the gear is engaged, my right foot is on the floor and i essentially dump the clutch. Took everything apart for an engine rebuild, the clutch disk looks fine, flywheel/PP are a little glazed (after 2 years in the car). Is it worth it to get an aftermarket clutch with a bit more clamping pressure? I don't want a tempermental clutch, but is the oem type a bit overworked for our type of racing? My gut says yes, not sure my wallet does...

Feedback?
Thanks,

[joeg]

It all comes down to driving style. If you are sympathetic to your equipment, OEM parts can work very well. There is no way an IT motor is going to put the OEM parts at risk with respect to torque capacity.

Once you start banging shifts--especially downshifts without any modicum of rev matching, all bets are off. You are gonna break that OEM clutch.

Now you can get a sturdier clutch and be more abusive. That has its drawbacks also. I once put in a bullet-proof clutch and was told you could not over-abuse it, so bang away. It worked great, all it had was a little roughness at takeoff.

However, when I replaced the wornout motor--normal cycle--everything was beat. First the flywheel and PP were heat checked and cracked. So was the crankshaft (whose thrust dimensions went way out of kilter. I also found that even the valve keepers and retainers were beat. It even had cracked the alternator mount.

Needless to say that while I would use such a clutch again, I simply went back to the OEM style and have more longevity in motor parts.

[Streetwise guy]

I run a Spec stage 2 clutch in my Neon, which is a 95, and uses the separate flywheel/pressure plate setup. In about 15 race weekends, I've torn the center out of a disc, and my last time out the crank broke at the rear main bearing. I do run hard- no strokin' around my world.:eclipsee_steering:If you run the modular clutch, I'd be concerned about tearing the middle out of the flexplate before anything else.

I don't know whether its me, or the clutch, or the engine, but I'm wondering about going back to a stock clutch to soften things up a bit. I know the stock clutches are quite sturdy.

[cjb25hs]

I had a 95 act that I ran in a. The clutch to run is to cOn err over to the later clutch style which if you are a 96 should be in. That's the setup that has the flywheel as part of the assembly similar to a auto setup. Molar has a performance unit that if I remember maybe from a pt cruiser but I am not 100% sure of that. It may be from a 2.0 talon/ eclipse. Same tranny designs.

I had that clutch in my car for over 10 double weekends with no issues. Stock replacement lasted me through drivers school and one double weekend

http://www.modernperformance.com/mopar-high-torque-clutch-9505-neon-p-1381.html

Here is the unit. No part number I bought through my local dealer at their cost since they helped me out. If you have a relationship with a dealer or repair shop that does should run you under 270 bucks

[Rabbit07]

I have always used and continue to recomend the PT cruiser clutch from a 2001 2.4 MT. I even just buy them from autozone ( read as lifetime warranty ).