Press in wheel studs

[Ralf]

Currently have the Bildon 60mm screw in wheel studs installed but last race wasn't able to get proper torque on 3 lug nuts on the rear of my car, which leads me to believe they are pulling out. I want to fix that prior to next race.
What press in studs are you using? I would like to keep the same M12x1.5 thread since the front hubs are new and the screw in studs are holding for now and don't want two different sets of lug nuts.
Jegs lists M12x1.5, 2 1/2" long wheel studs that fit late model Camaro/Firebirds and Corvette. Would these work?
Any other tricks that I could try to keep the current ones from pulling out? I have drums, so don't believe welding would work.
Center punching the back side to make the material wider?

[Knestis]

Call Cameron at RennGruppe Motorsports. He's got them in stock or can tell you the GM part number that we use. They are a "race" part with a nice ball nose, left over from when the Citation was in the program.

K

EDIT - http://renngruppemotorsports.com/

[Dave Zaslow]

Ralf,

I have had a love/hate relationship with wheel studs for a long time (mostly love). They have come from Bildon, Turner, BBS, etc. The only crappy ones came from a tire store.

The proper tightening torque is whatever you torque the lug nuts to.

The screw threads and receiving threads must be absolutely clean.

The wheel must always be flat against the mounting surface. Ant movement will cause the stud to fail.

I use loctite red just to make sure that no other contaminents can get into the thread area (the braking heat will mean the loctite will lose its hold).

Do not use stud installer/extractor tools to install. It will screw up the threads. Double nut the top and torque down using a torque wrench (the same one you trust for tightening the lug nuts). The ones with a hex at the tip are for the convenience of starting it, not for full install/torquing.

If you feel one is backing out (i.e. not allowing the lug nut to be properly torqued), take off the wheel and any spacers and replace. You can inspect for any defects or cracks at a more convenient time. Check the hub/drum as well to see if there is any damage to that threaded surface. It is flexing and over-torquing that are the primary causes of damage to the stud.

Use the right lug nuts for your wheels. You can put a ball on a cone, but not a cone on a ball.

Make sure the lug nuts are the right length and you have at least 1/4" of thread showing when everything is tight.

Use the same brand/length on each individual location. That way you'll know when one looks different than the others on that wheel.

DZ

"...don't let Dave touch the tools"

[G-Man]

Dave - Thanks for a very helpful post. This answers questions I had and some I didn't know to ask. Thank you.

[chuck baader]

Been running the ARP Camaro studs for years. Only drawback is the hubs must be removed and the back side flattened so the stud will sit flat. Press in with about 9 thousands interference fit and forget!!! Chuck

[shwah]

I use the same GM motorsports stuff. Only took one screw in stud failure entering Grants tomb in Memphis to learn that lesson. They did recently get more expensive...

[Knestis]

Bummer about the price. They were always super-affordable from GM Motorsports. There's also a particular drill size required for the job, that I don't remember offhand.

K

[jmracer17]

I was recommended these. The guy that told me about them runs a FP VW and said hes never had an issue. Hope it helps.

Moroso 46150- Wheel Studs