PDA

View Full Version : welded or quafe



Tim Dugan
06-02-2010, 09:15 PM
looking for a vote money versus reliability will a welded dif take the abuse on a 85 vw gti or dose sombody have a quafe for sale for short money. AAAAHUM ( Jason Benaugh ). Any ideas or sugestions are welcome thanks :smilie_pokal:

Ralf
06-02-2010, 10:12 PM
Not sure what you call short money, but here is a really good price considering how much they are regularly. http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_II--8v/Drivetrain/LSD/ES1928138/

Lael Cleland
06-02-2010, 10:59 PM
MK1 I would say Quaife, MK2, Larger brgs & Hubs.....Welded!
But ECS has a killer sale on LSDs now for the 020.........

shwah
06-03-2010, 09:09 AM
Welded.

Greg Amy
06-03-2010, 09:42 AM
Welded.
As noted in this thread (http://www.improvedtouring.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27865), I'm not a fan of gear-type diffs for racing. Further, last November I drove Pablo at Road Atlanta with a welded and liked it.

Given the choice between Quaife or welded, I'd also suggest welded.

GA

OTLimit
06-03-2010, 10:28 AM
After paying for several different options...we keep coming back to WELDED.

Anyone want to buy some lightly used diffs?

Lael Cleland
06-03-2010, 12:26 PM
Do you have a clutch style Lesley??????? please please please.... My tranny has been apart 5 times in the last year.......6 ain't going to hurt....

Peloquin poss for sale.....

Tim Dugan
06-03-2010, 04:43 PM
thanks everyone i think im gonna go with welded for now till it brakes than maybe try someting else :026:

Lael Cleland
06-03-2010, 05:25 PM
Since your there, ya may want to change your FD ratio.....3.67 to a 3.89/3.94/4.25 ish...It depends on your race track configuration & Horse power....

Flyinglizard
06-03-2010, 10:23 PM
Real men drive locked.. 3.94 is good all around. MM

shwah
06-03-2010, 10:57 PM
If you are running the short 13s, and a stock cam/head class you might want to stick with the 3.67. If you are running stock diameter 3.94 it is.

Get the diff crack checked before welding. Also after. I have only seen one break, and it appeared to be due to cracks that were there when it was welded.

Don't turn the wheel much when backing up or you WILL break outer CVs. Otherwise it has not proven to be hard on parts for me.

racer_tim
06-04-2010, 10:56 PM
I run a welded diff, but would go with a spool, and save some weight.

http://www.aptuning.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=388&category_id=564&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=14&vmcchk=1&Itemid=14

shwah
06-05-2010, 11:26 AM
Kind of defeats the cost objective. You can make a welded lighter, but I think they have released a 'lightweight' version since then.

I think the spool will be an improvement in reliability over a welded up 100k + mile diff.

RHallRacing
06-05-2010, 04:04 PM
Anyone try the WaveTrac diff?

shwah
06-05-2010, 08:19 PM
Chris Abin has one that has been used once after a fresh rebuild with more aggressive friction material on the little friction disks. It is basically a quaife with friction surfaces as well.

Knestis
06-05-2010, 08:45 PM
My new 'box is getting a spool. I think we'll still run the gear diff for enduros but I'm confident the welded diff is faster - particularly where there's time to be gained on the curbs.

K