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Davegt74
03-24-2010, 03:14 AM
Hi all new to the Honda world with the purchase of this CRX SI

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/Davegt27/ITA%20CRX/newracecar005.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v624/Davegt27/ITA%20CRX/?action=view&current=newracecar005.jpg)


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/Davegt27/ITA%20CRX/newracecar001.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v624/Davegt27/ITA%20CRX/?action=view&current=newracecar001.jpg)


so far the only thing I have done is change the oil, order a shifter extension of Ebay, suck out some of the old brake fluid and add some more.

oh I did put the car on the scales
the K&N filter is pretty beat up so I might change that

David
C1R (Code One Racing)

ITA_honda
03-24-2010, 09:00 AM
Welcome!
You will enjoy the CRX. Its a great car...and not to mention...its a Honda :happy204:

If there is any advice/help you need, there are plenty of us on this forum.

raffaelli
03-24-2010, 10:19 AM
Congrats! I love that car. There are lots of very smart Honda type people around here and always willing to help out. Keep posting!

Davegt74
03-24-2010, 12:05 PM
I've been doing some searches to get an idea what might be needed
and getting ready for the drivers school this weekend (that's if it does not snow)


David

quadzjr
03-24-2010, 02:22 PM
nice looking MR2 :023:

Ohh.. yeah.. congrats on the honda thing to! haha.

Davegt74
03-24-2010, 11:23 PM
oops fixed

received the shifter extension Pic after i get 4 posts LOL

David

vBulletin Message
In an effort to stamp out forum SPAM only members with 4 posts or more can post website links or email addresses.

Tom Blaney
03-25-2010, 06:00 AM
Dave
If your going to the NJ Motorsports park event this weekend, I will be one of the instructors, so look me up. I've been racing CRX's for a number of years (just retired a year ago) and can give you some tips.

I also manufacture some custom parts for that car as well as winning motors and gearboxes.


([email protected])

Davegt74
03-25-2010, 10:15 PM
Thanks Tom

I am in CO

you can do so little to an ITA car i cant think of what you would make.

I did not want to make to many changes to the car so i bought this shifter extension off Ebay

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/Davegt27/ITA%20CRX/stuff003.jpg

Davegt27

quadzjr
03-26-2010, 08:22 AM
don't know exactly what his capability are, but here is a short list.

Spherical suspension bushings
Custom wiring harness
Stand alone ECU
headers/exhaust
Sway bar end links
Sway bar mounts
speedway rear bar
Final drives
etc...


then there is the whole building motor and tranny thing.

There is a few people around that can do all of these if you are in the market for them, myself included.

Davegt74
03-26-2010, 03:14 PM
don't know exactly what his capability are, but here is a short list.

Spherical suspension bushings
Custom wiring harness
Stand alone ECU
headers/exhaust
Sway bar end links
Sway bar mounts
speedway rear bar
Final drives
etc...


then there is the whole building motor and tranny thing.

There is a few people around that can do all of these if you are in the market for them, myself included.

I see
I got out my 2004 rule book and the CRX got a pretty big wt reward
on the scales the left front is over 700Lbs but the tire load rating is 1135lbs
this scares the heck out of me

question can we use 15" wheels? (I am guessing 15" tires will have a higher load rating)

David

quadzjr
03-26-2010, 03:20 PM
yes.. in ITA you can use 7" wide wheels.

15x7 are a common wheel size.

in ITB you can run a 15x6

Davegt74
03-26-2010, 07:20 PM
yes.. in ITA you can use 7" wide wheels.

15x7 are a common wheel size.

in ITB you can run a 15x6


so you can run 14x7 rims also?

also are the front hubs a hi failure item

with 61% weight at the front I can see how they would fail all the time

is this a dangerous condition I mean would a hub failure cause a crash?

thanks
David

quadzjr
03-27-2010, 10:41 AM
yes in ITa you can run 14x7. rule of thumb is you can run teh same diameter as stock or 15". 7" width maximum.

Hubs need to be inspected often, some replace more than others, just keep an eye on them. They are becoming more and more rare, and are not that cheap.

Hub failure can result in a crash, depending on where on track it brakes and how.

iambhooper
03-27-2010, 07:44 PM
are hubs getting hard to find for the 2nd gen CRX? i know they are o the 1st gen.

Xian
03-27-2010, 09:32 PM
You can still get hubs from the dealer for the EF.

14x7's are fine. I wouldn't worry about the corner weight and tire capacity... it's a non issue. You don't want 15x7's b/c fitting 225/45 Hoosiers is a real PITA on the rear. It can be done but the offset is crucial and they still barely fit. The 14's are going to be just as fast but easier to get on the car.

4.7 FD is the best "all around" although different options may be better for specific tracks.

The weight adjustment was part of the Great Re-alignment. The CRX was one of the bogey's for the class and the weight really hasn't slowed them down.

Sphericals are good but especially important in the radius rods. You can run a mix of OEM and poly on the rest and be just fine.

IT allows a shit-ton of development and parts. You can spend some serious cubic-dollars when looking at a full prep car.

Christian

Davegt74
03-28-2010, 11:44 AM
14x7's are fine. I wouldn't worry about the corner weight and tire capacity... it's a non issue. You don't want 15x7's b/c fitting 225/45 Hoosiers is a real PITA on the rear. It can be done but the offset is crucial and they still barely fit. The 14's are going to be just as fast but easier to get on the car.


good points, spent some time looking for some 14x7" rims but as luck would have it i cant find anyone that sells the lightest ones listed on wheel wts.net


4.7 FD is the best "all around" although different options may be better for specific tracks.

the guy that sold me the car tried to sell me a 4.7FD but I did not have any more money also I figured since its a Honda they should be easy to get.


The weight adjustment was part of the Great Re-alignment. The CRX was one of the bogey's for the class and the weight really hasn't slowed them down.

Sphericals are good but especially important in the radius rods. You can run a mix of OEM and poly on the rest and be just fine.


I had to look up what a radius rod is but it should be easy to make one (other cars call them strut rods)



IT allows a shit-ton of development and parts. You can spend some serious cubic-dollars when looking at a full prep car.

hope its less then the FP/GTL cars (one guy e-mailed me and said unless I am dynoing 7 motors in the off season forget about GT)

I know I wont be some hot shoe so my goal for this car is to just make it faster then it was when I first got the car

if I can figure out how to hook up my narrow band AFR meter then I can work on the very rich mixture it has now

thanks
David

Xian
03-29-2010, 10:39 AM
14x7 Team Dynamics are plenty light and strong. They're also not terribly expensive.

Yep, 4.7FD isn't too hard to find. Plenty of folks make them... do a little searching/asking to see which will be the best blend of price and reliability. I'd suggest having it cryo'd and REM'd while your at it.

Radius Rods are the ones that go "forward" off your front LCA's to the front subframe. Progress Suspension makes a kit or you can make your own.

Yes, less than FP/GTL but still quite a bit if you want to go full-tilt-boogy. If you're running a stock ECU along with aftermarket intake/header/exhaust, I wouldn't worry too much about AFR being too rich. They make good power in that configuration and there's no sense leaning it out when that could impact reliability. IIRC, the stock ECU doesn't look at the o2 sensor at full throttle anyway... just runs the regular "open loop" program.

almracing
03-29-2010, 02:30 PM
Dave,

I also run a CRX in the Northeast and have quite a few parts/spares for the CRX. Drop me a note if you need anything (ie, transmissions, doors, heads, suspension parts, OPM LSD, springs, shocks etc.)

Davegt74
03-29-2010, 11:04 PM
14x7 Team Dynamics are plenty light and strong. They're also not terribly expensive.

Yep, 4.7FD isn't too hard to find. Plenty of folks make them... do a little searching/asking to see which will be the best blend of price and reliability. I'd suggest having it cryo'd and REM'd while your at it.

Radius Rods are the ones that go "forward" off your front LCA's to the front subframe. Progress Suspension makes a kit or you can make your own.

Yes, less than FP/GTL but still quite a bit if you want to go full-tilt-boogy. If you're running a stock ECU along with aftermarket intake/header/exhaust, I wouldn't worry too much about AFR being too rich. They make good power in that configuration and there's no sense leaning it out when that could impact reliability. IIRC, the stock ECU doesn't look at the o2 sensor at full throttle anyway... just runs the regular "open loop" program.

yep your right don't make any changes, I have to force myself to keep hands off for now

the Narrow band O 2 sensor is in the wrong place anyway it would never light off way back where its at.



I also run a CRX in the Northeast and have quite a few parts/spares for the CRX. Drop me a note if you need anything (ie, transmissions, doors, heads, suspension parts, OPM LSD, springs, shocks etc.)

Tony, got any Eibach springs this thing only has 430lbs springs in the front
the A-Arm's has been contacting the Kioni/GC coil overs and putting marks on them.

David

USGUYS
03-31-2010, 12:50 AM
DAVE
I ran CRX in ITA for a number of years. I have converted my cars to FP. I would happy to tell you some of the mistakes and good ideas we developed over the year.
I also have two sets of 14X7 Panasports Rallye wheels that I would be happy to sell. I use 13X7 in FP.
My best finish with the cars was a 2nd place at the June Sprints, running the car only slightly changed from ITA specs. I even ran the Hoosier DOTs.
My e-mail is [email protected].
Good Luck
Tony Machi

Davegt74
03-31-2010, 02:14 AM
thanks Tony I will e-mail you next week.

the car did not do to well with the tech inspection so I have to fix some stuff before Friday

of course I am trying to figure out how it got through tech last year

I've been busting butt since I got back from the inspection

David

Davegt74
04-01-2010, 07:58 PM
Updates

I had to add padding, the red is what I put in

it was a pain since some of it did not match the tube diameter

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/Davegt27/ITA%20CRX/updates002.jpg

had to install this also

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/Davegt27/ITA%20CRX/updates001.jpg

still need to do the window net the one that's on the car does not have an SFI label

and also the batt cover

when did the start to require a SFI certified window net?

David

quadzjr
04-02-2010, 10:03 AM
why do you need a battery cover? I thought stock was okay:shrug:

Xian
04-02-2010, 09:32 PM
Stock is just fine.

Bob Roth
04-04-2010, 10:08 PM
A couple of things to get started.

1) It looks like the car has been around a while. Something that CRX's develop problems in is cracks in body suspension mounting areas. Carefully look at the rear bulkhead where the lower a arm mounts, that bulkhead will crack and actually tear off of the car. Also look for cracks in the steering rack mount and in in the front wheel well area. i don't want to freak you out, just keep an eye on these areas so you don't get unhappy surprises.

2) I think either the 14 x 7 or the 15 x 7 will be good. the 225 50 14' will fit with massaging in the rear. But just don't assume they will fit. Hopefully that work has been already done. Something you do not want to have happen is not clearence the rear as the tire will hook up into the rear wheel arch and its like hitting the brake at apex - instant oversteer.

3) Talk to tom fowler on hub life. They do break. If you were using stock hubs, I think change every 8 races? One thing to note, If you are racing, and all the sudden your peddle goes low, but you have brakes, be very cautious, and if in practice come into pits and check to see if you have slop in front wheels. Its a classic sign of a hub failure. They give you that early warning, next stop in a couple of laps is the wheel breaking off the car.

Its a great car, youl enjoy it!

Davegt74
04-05-2010, 04:53 AM
thanks Bob for the info,

i think i will buy some hubs and start out fresh

Davegt27

Davegt74
04-06-2010, 08:24 AM
sorry to say the CRX was hit buy a BMW during my drivers school

tore up the side caved in the b piller and lower rocker

I spun in front of the BMW and he hit me

if anyone needs any parts let me know
it supposed to have a lot of good stuff but I wouldn't know good Honda part if you hit me in the head with them

sure was a fast car
David

quadzjr
04-06-2010, 09:00 AM
pics? can't be fixed? find another tub and transfer the parts over?

raffaelli
04-06-2010, 09:24 AM
sorry to say the CRX was hit buy a BMW during my drivers school

tore up the side caved in the b piller and lower rocker

I spun in front of the BMW and he hit me

if anyone needs any parts let me know
it supposed to have a lot of good stuff but I wouldn't know good Honda part if you hit me in the head with them

sure was a fast car
David


Sorry to hear that. Don't give up on it, hunt around for a tub.

raffaelli
04-06-2010, 09:36 AM
Around Denver

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/1676032033.html

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/1675289946.html

Maybe you can ask this guy for the shell:
http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/1667695234.html

Xian
04-06-2010, 12:16 PM
Easy Button: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/1650664879.html

Christian, who's a little familiar with the car above...

Davegt74
04-06-2010, 02:04 PM
some pics

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/Davegt27/ITA%20CRX/crashpics001.jpg

in the rear there was a small tear like if a bolt had been tore out but it was a sign of things to come
I tore it the rest of the way

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/Davegt27/ITA%20CRX/crashpics004.jpg

the Body shop said the car had been through the ringer and I could spend 3K fixing it
it had 1/4 inch of bondo where the BBS is at

I could smoke the tires in 2nd gear on pit out, this car has some pwr
I might even take it to the chassie dyno

joeg
04-06-2010, 02:49 PM
That is only a door, a good professional tug and some Bondo.

Have them do the pull (for cash) and get a new door. Bolt on the door. Leave the rear qtr alone for the time being.

Steven McWilliams Jr
04-06-2010, 04:13 PM
Wow, that's too bad. The car was, and still is beautiful. You can surely pull the dent out. I saw a Mini and a F350 Super Duty tugging on a Miata at VIR last year. the tag team straightened out the frame pretty well. you should definately give it a try. If the frame is still somewhat bent, you can always just try to balance the car with corner weights.

Good Luck,
Steven

Xian
04-07-2010, 08:01 PM
Yeah, that's repairable. Might want/need a new lower subframe welded into the rear but definitely not the end of the world. For the $$ though, you may be better off buying the roller I linked to earlier.

boywonder
04-07-2010, 09:40 PM
I can vouch for the CRX being able to take a licking and keep on ticking; I drove mine head first into a wall at Mid-Ohio last year and an afternoon of careful hammering with a BFH and yanking on it with it strapped to my F350 in the paddock and I was able to race the next day. I've seen worse than yours repaired before so don't throw in the towel yet.

The important question...were you able to finish the drivers school and get your novice permit?

Good luck!

Davegt74
04-07-2010, 11:22 PM
I can vouch for the CRX being able to take a licking and keep on ticking; I drove mine head first into a wall at Mid-Ohio last year and an afternoon of careful hammering with a BFH and yanking on it with it strapped to my F350 in the paddock and I was able to race the next day. I've seen worse than yours repaired before so don't throw in the towel yet.

The important question...were you able to finish the drivers school and get your novice permit?

Good luck!


yes I received my novice permit, reading between the lines I figured if I spun one more time I would have been out.

got the door off

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/Davegt27/ITA%20CRX/crashpics2003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/Davegt27/ITA%20CRX/crashpics2005.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/Davegt27/ITA%20CRX/crashpics2001.jpg

Dave

Steven McWilliams Jr
04-08-2010, 12:43 AM
At least you finished the school. Now you have time to get your car all straightened out before your Novice Permit expires (a whole two years) You'll get it back out there in no time. I saw a VW T-Bone a CRX at
100+mph. It moved the CRX's roll cage back about an inch!! I think he just replaced the subframe and was good to go, so you'll have no probem with this.

Good Luck and have fun!
Steven

joeg
04-08-2010, 08:11 AM
A good frame man, cash money and some beer will get a lot of that pillar area back in shape.

almracing
04-08-2010, 09:02 PM
Dave...

First - sorry to see that, especially during your first event.

Second - that can be fixed! A good body shop can pull that out and get the door to shut. Trust me... I know. DOH!

The CRX is a tough car and as long as the four corners are straight and true, you will still be able to run well.

That split between the rear wheels is what someone mentioned in an earlier post... it is a weak spot on the car. You can have it welded up and then add a bar across the rear suspension points (you can find them online). But remember, you can't use a sta-bar in the rear and front... only one or the other.

Don't let the wreck discourage you. Unfortunately, it is part of the sport. You just got it done earlier than you would have hoped to.

gran racing
04-09-2010, 08:05 AM
Ask around where a racecar friendly shop is. Cash, and be specific that you want it functioning properly but are not as concerned about cosmetics.

Too bad about this happening, but don't give up and before you know it, you'll be out there again.

Davegt74
04-09-2010, 09:08 PM
Thanks everyone

the place I took it to was a guy that does alot (about:blank#) of race car repairs and he did not even want to touch it

one option is to take it over to the local Junior collage, they have a frame machine

this is one bad a** car

David

Davegt74
04-12-2010, 07:22 PM
I tried to order the rear lower cross member but the Parts place I use says its no longer available


Collision Catalog - 1988 - Honda - Crx
Rear body, Rear body, Rear crossmember, Rear

before I head to the junk yard does anyone know where I might buy one?

thanks in advance

David

Ed Funk
04-12-2010, 09:06 PM
Try MyHondaPartsStore.COM

Steven McWilliams Jr
04-12-2010, 10:33 PM
hondaautomotiveparts.com they have almost eveything.
Also, you can register with Honda and Hondaracing.com/hpd for crazy discounts on everything you'll need. Doors, fenders. And other parts that you may need. But it ships from CA. They call to verify your order and get a card number so I'd go ahead and ask about shipping.

Good luck!
steven

Davegt74
05-03-2010, 12:54 AM
Well I haven’t had any luck getting the lower cross member from Honda
They say it’s discontinued

I did contract with a guy that says he will fix the car $650

But I have to fix the lower cross member myself
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/Davegt27/ITA%20CRX/crashpics003.jpg

I will head to the junk yard tomorrow and try to get the lower cross member.

I also need to get a door
The question I have is what year doors are the same?

I mean can a 90 door fit on an 88?
I have already been to the junk yard once and it looked like the later doors had the seat belts in the door
And it had some metal hooks (or something) on the door

This looked different then my 88 so I did not buy the door.

Thanks for any info

David

joeg
05-03-2010, 06:59 AM
Try looking for that part from Canadian Vendors.

Davegt74
05-24-2010, 08:24 PM
Well I have some good news; the CRX is back from the body man

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/Davegt27/ITA%20CRX/crashpics2006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/Davegt27/ITA%20CRX/crashpics2010.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v624/Davegt27/ITA%20CRX/crashpics2011.jpg

David

quadzjr
05-25-2010, 08:45 AM
Looks good!, how did the rear subframe turn out? how much of that is bondo?

Davegt74
05-25-2010, 06:03 PM
I haven’t fixed the rear sub frame yet since I can’t get the part

I don’t think there is much bondo since I saw the car after the replacement quarter panel had been welded in

They do have the special gauges the can tell you for sure how thick it is (body filler)

I bought the door so that has no bondo, he bought the rest and it was real straight

David

joeg
05-26-2010, 08:57 AM
Search in Canada for that part!!

Davegt74
05-26-2010, 08:55 PM
Sorry, we do not currently have this part in stock. Our catalog uses real-time inventory which is updated daily. Please check back with us later to see if your part is in stock.

-Auto Parts Canada

joeg
05-27-2010, 08:37 AM
Try and contact "Number 7 Honda" in Toronto, Canada for that part. I am informed that they found the piece a couple weeks ago for a buddy with the same issue.

You can also look up the number on Hondapartsdeal.com, if you do not know it yet.

The piece came out of the Montreal parts depot, but I do not know if any are left. It is in excess of $200.00, I am told.

cjb25hs
05-28-2010, 12:02 AM
if you strike out go on car-part .com my search showed at least 30-40 of them across the us from 40-100 bucks. Not sure what your zip code is so I would go that route.

Davegt74
05-28-2010, 01:10 AM
Thanks I sent them a message asking if they had the part

David

StevenS
06-28-2010, 12:02 PM
Any update on the rear subframe availability? I'm now in need of one as well. Absolutely no chance of repairing what is in the car now. I tried the various parts places listed above and either got no response or was told that the part is no longer available from Honda. I'm starting to think the only way to get this thing is to cut it out of a junkyard shell, which makes me really nervous...

I'd really hate to part out a repariable racecar because of such a small issue.

Steve Sancricca
1988 CRX ITA #27

Davegt74
06-28-2010, 11:03 PM
Sorry I haven’t looked for awhile
I am in moving mode right now going to a new F16 unit
The car is in storage

But a junk yard item seems to be the way to go, I already bought one of those spot weld removing drill bits just need to get time to find one in a junk yard

Davegt27

Davegt74
07-24-2010, 06:23 PM
I made it to a Junk yard and bought the rear lower cross member I needed

$150 :blink:

They cut the back half of the car off then I marked out the area I needed (small enough to move around)

I was able to use the local Auto hobby shop and drill out the spot welds

So we are making progress
David

Davegt74
10-15-2010, 02:46 AM
Hi everyone

I just picked up the CRX from the frame shop and it is all repaired now


I Found a place that had done several Hondas before and knew how to do the job

David

lateapex911
10-15-2010, 03:20 AM
Sorry I haven’t looked for awhile
I am in moving mode right now going to a new F16 unit
The car is in storage

But a junk yard item seems to be the way to go, I already bought one of those spot weld removing drill bits just need to get time to find one in a junk yard

Davegt27

The repair work looks super!
F-16 unit? jet jockey? If so, I'm jealous, LOL.

Davegt74
10-15-2010, 09:03 PM
The repair work looks super!
F-16 unit? jet jockey? If so, I'm jealous, LOL.



No just a Tech

The car will go on the alignment rack tomorrow

I am new to Hondas so I don’t even know what specs to give him

Anyone have any spec they can share

David

lateapex911
10-16-2010, 01:49 AM
If i had to align a CRX, this is one guy here on the board I'd write:
http://www.improvedtouring.com/forums/member.php?u=10430

Christian Shipp, CRX racer.