re-built aluminum drums ?

[CPLUCKER]

I posted over in the thread on rules, but I figure I should try here as well

I am working with a machine shop on developing a method for replacing the steel/iron liner on the aluminum drums with new material, we would machine out the old material , make a new ring, and thermally shrink the new material in place. are you guys potentially interested? at what price ? I am shooting to to get a pair done for testing this spring. I will keep you informed

Thanks
Chris Plucker
ITS 280z

[Ron Earp]

I think most everyone will be interested as the ally drums are NLA.

Figure in the neighborhood of $120-$140 per drum or so. New ally drums, when they were plentiful, were in the range of $100. My experience has been they last a good while so price seems less of an issue, especially since there are no other sources.

[quadzjr]

From just thinking about how much in machine work will cost I would assume they would be well over 150 bucks a piece.

[JeffYoung]

Still not a bad price.

I think all of us drum brake guys need to think about ducting to the rears to make that stuff (which is getting rarer and rarer) last longer.


From just thinking about how much in machine work will cost I would assume they would be well over 150 bucks a piece.

[quadzjr]

I know it is not optimal.. but do they offer steel drums?

[Ron Earp]

I know it is not optimal.. but do they offer steel drums?

Sure do. The ally ones are nice, but steelies are still available. Was discussed on another thread where someone wanted to use the NLA ally drums as a reason to switch to rear discs. Not too good of an argument, IMHO.

[pballance]

Chris, I don't want to take away from your thread, but I have also been in contact with a company that has been re-lining aluminum drums for another application for several years. I have been given a rough order of magnitude of about $900 for 4 drums, and promised they will come back "looking like brand spanking new."

The biggest holdback is the tooling set up that would be needed. No one wants to spend the money on tooling to only do 1 or 2 sets of drums.

I would think that the $130-$150 range would be about right.

BTW, I am going to start another thread about this for people to list how many drums they would like to have re-lined if we can get the price point to an acceptable level.

Paul

[CPLUCKER]

I don't know about you guys, but I use these things up like beer at a superbowl party ( at least1-2 drums a year ) because the keep cracking in the middle. so I think the volume is definately there to do the tooling required to do this. the problem I am having is finding the ring shaped cast iron or steel material. do you guys know if they are iron or steel ? I am getting one checked with a mass spectrometer tommorow to see what the originals were. I will have a price quote in a week or so, but it is going to be hard to get them down to $150.

but even at $200 to $225 the cost is not really prohibitive, heck some guys have front rotrs that cost that much !

Thanks
Chris Plucker

[MIKEL]

As I posted in the other thread also look at diff type steels may be a lot better about cracking and therefore lasting longer? In additiond there may be better thermal propties to some other types of steels. The OEMs were built to be cheap not for max performance. There may some solid benifits to the relpacing the stock liners. Then there is the weight situation if a stronger material is thinner or lighter (some of the high nodulars steels/stainless?)agan more weight loss would be a better thing yes?? So if they cost 250ea but were say 1-2lbs lighter lasted twice as long and cooled better the cost does not look so bad. Seem to me somone has access to some engineers/brake spicalists who might have some ideas about types of materials to look into. Like Paul said if there is enought intrest the tooling cost would come down and if you happen to come up with a "hot" part I bet there will be a market for it. That all being said you better make sure the powers that be are ok with "refurbished" drums at all. no point in doing all this if they say no go.:023:

[CPLUCKER]

I have no interest in what " powers that be" say .. I am re-building a part just like a brake caliper from autozone. it is the same fit or function. If we get to the point that some rulemakes have a problem with something like this, I am ging to pack up and go home !

Chris Plucker

[CPLUCKER]

Just had a mass spectrometer alloy analizer check the material on the OEM Nissan drums, it says they are SA-105 1018 carbon steel, this is good news because we can use steel pipe to make the friction surface rings !

[tim240z]

Just had a mass spectrometer alloy analizer check the material on the OEM Nissan drums, it says they are SA-105 1018 carbon steel, this is good news because we can use steel pipe to make the friction surface rings !

Thats a win right there! Unless we could ummm... improve the design :eclipsee_steering:

[CPLUCKER]

What would be an improvement ? I am making sure I don't use welded seam pipe I am unable to use Iron ( most rotors are actually Iron not steel) but what would be a good stable high temperature material that would outperform carbon steel?

Thanks Guys
Chris Plucker

[tim240z]

What would be an improvement ? I am making sure I don't use welded seam pipe I am unable to use Iron ( most rotors are actually Iron not steel) but what would be a good stable high temperature material that would outperform carbon steel?

Thanks Guys
Chris Plucker

Oh I have no idea... It was said as a joke as Im sure it wouldnt be legal...

[MIKEL]

Sorry I was the one that brought it up. I looked at the rules I dont think you can change the material, not that I see a tech insectors pulling brake drums and testing the linings at the regional level (maybe at the runoffs?). As far as an alternate lining material I would think asking some of the brake companies (willwood,AP, ect) what they use for there brakes might be a starting point? Though it may be a waste of time. Still if the cost is not to much refurbishing them still will be better than running the steel ones (lots wt+heat)thats why the 510 guys always tried to upgrade to the "Z" drums they are superior to the steel ones.
Has anyone looked into any of the JDM markets there is a lot RESTO companies making parts for the JAP cars in Japan. I have seen them talked about on the Nastalgic japanease car page? Just another thought for the OEM parts:shrug: