Kill Switch

[digger]

Hello, I am uprading wiring/sensors on my 1995 DOHC Neon. I am also want to change the way ignition is shut off. I currenty have a switch wired into the green/red wire @ the ignition coil to kill the engine. Has anyone used this setup or has anyone have a tried and true method to shut off the car ?
Thanks,
Digger

[RacerBill]

Hello, I am uprading wiring/sensors on my 1995 DOHC Neon. I am also want to change the way ignition is shut off. I currenty have a switch wired into the green/red wire @ the ignition coil to kill the engine. Has anyone used this setup or has anyone have a tried and true method to shut off the car ?
Thanks,
Digger

Digger: Please reference the 'kill switch' thread in the Tech section of the forum. The third diagram - JimLill - will probably be the easiest to follow and is about what I did in my Dodge Shelby (granted, there are no where near the electronics in my car). Chris Childs will probably chime in as he races a DOHC Neon.

[Streetwise guy]

The ASD (Automatic Shut Down- $30.00 words meaning "MAIN") relay powers up lots of stuff on a Chrysler. Coil, injectors, field windings in the alternator..... I cut into the wire from the control circuit of the ASD relay to the ECU for the small terminals of the kill switch. Upsides- you kill the alternator field immediatly, so no voltage spikes to harm your shiny Mopar performance ECU. There is also very little amperage on the control circuit, so your kill switch should last for many happy years. If this doesn't make sense, I can check the wiring diagram and be more specific on colors- its been a while since I set it up on mine.

Edit: Have I answered the correct question, or are you just wanting an on/off switch?

[digger]

Thanks for your reply Streetwise guy ! You answered my question. Looking at my 1995 service manual, the curcuit you are speaking of is the dark blue / yellow wire from cavity 18 of the PCM to ASD relay , it is one one that supplies a ground path for the ASD. I hate to ask you for any more of your time, but if you can confirm this it would be great help to me. I have been fighting a hot sputter/miss for a long time and would like to put that problem behind me without adding another.
Thanks again,
Digger

[splats]

For an even easier way, take the smaller battery cable to the main fuse panel (the one next to the battery) & put your kill switch into it (i.e. battery to kill switch to main fuse panel). You only need to run a two-post switch. The alt. is regulated by the computer, so no need to wiring anything to the alt. (i.e. the four-post switch). I've run this set-up for going on three years & have had zero problems. The wiring on our Neons stink, so I cut/splice as little as possible.

[Kolin Aspegren]

I did mine like Mark describes, super easy and realiable. Spent 3/4 of my time mounting my kill switch in a easy location for driver/safety workers.

k

[Streetwise guy]

I you just cut into the small battery cable, you leave the alternator and starter main power cables connected to the battery. No issue for voltage spike, and it will shut the car off, but isn't the main reason for having a kill switch to isolate the battery from all the stuff you've just smeared against the back bumper of that Civic?

[Streetwise guy]

I also forgot the part about moving the main sterter cable up to the main stud on the fuse box, then running a new cable from B+ to the kill switch big post, and returning from the other big post with a new cable to the main fusebox stud. The only thing left live is the battery cable to the kill switch.