Shock mount trouble, any help?

[Scooter]

I got some used Advanced Design shocks and struts a while ago and I'm finally getting around to putting them on my second-gen RX-7.

The problem is the bottom shock mount in the rear, where the shock mounts to the hub.

I got new mount-bolt things from Ground Control that are supposed to replace the part that bolts into the hub and sticks out for the shock to bolt onto. It's a piece that's a bolt on one side of it, and a post on the other side that the shock goes onto.

The problem is that the part that I took out has bigger threads than the part that Ground Control sent me. Ground Control claims that the part they sent me is the correct part for the car. This doesn't seem right to me, as the part I took out seems to be the factory piece with no modifications.

Has anyone else changed out this part? Are there two different hubs or something with different size mounting bolts that go into them?

Ground Control says that there are no other, alternate parts for that car. How can this be?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[lateapex911]

I can't tell you about the fitment issue. But...and this is just my (one guys) opinion....., from my experience, and from watching others as well, I'd think twice about using the ADs.

They need to be recharged regularly. (I know guys who do it daily) They are very fussy about the right charge level, and they leak. GC considers this "normal" and will sell you a recharge kit. You supply the nitrogen tank. Now, if the style of your fronts puts the valve in the bottom of the strut tube. (I think the 2nd gens run strut tubes, I could be wrong though), recharging the fronts becomes a major PITA.

On top of the day to day hassles, I've had a 50% failure rate ...

YMMV, but I'd think hard about other options. I sold my remaining stock on eBay...

[Scooter]

Oh good. Hilarious. Anyone with another viewpoint of these shocks? I spent a lot of money on them! Help me out here....

[mbuskuhl]

Has anyone else changed out this part? Are there two different hubs or something with different size mounting bolts that go into them?

Ground Control says that there are no other, alternate parts for that car. How can this be?



The rear trailing arms are all the same. It should have been a 17mm bolt you took out, I doubt someone had to tap that hole and use a larger bolt sometime in the past. You need a shock mounting stud like the one on page 4 here http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/pdfs/catalog/09_Suspension.pdf but that part # is no longer available from Mazdaspeed. It's for a Koni, but the threads are correct and I would bet the stud diameter and length would fit your shocks. Surely any of the Koni dealers could probably get the studs.

Sounds to me like GC has their inventory mixed up.

I use Koni's.

[Scooter]

Yes, this seems right. I noticed that Flatout sells these as well. So the question now is whether or not the Advanced Design shock holes are the same size as the Konis.

Anyone?

[Scooter]

Just spoke with Nick at Flatout. (Thanks Nick!) Who let me know that the AD shocks and the Koni shocks are different at the bottom, and the Koni/Mazda Motorsports mounts won't work.

So I guess it's back to Ground Control. Hopefully they've come to their senses about sending me the wrong part.

Unless anyone has these special Advanced Design tiny mounts they want to sell?

[xr4racer]

If I remember correctly I removed the stock lower shock mount from the hub carrier and got tapered spacers and put a very strong bolt through the tapered spacers directly in to the hub carrier. If you find that Ground Control has a different stud that goes into the hub carrier, please let me know. I have not had any problem with my setup in the 6 weekends I have used them. I will be checking the nitrogen charge before I take it to the track and I will let you know if they lost the gas from sitting over the winter. I had mine rebuilt last year by SRP and the nitrogen stayed in them for 4 months without any leaks at all. I agree it is a PITA to check the front nitrogen as you have to take apart the strut to get to the Schrader valve. You definitely need to check for leaks after every event.

matt