Break-in oil recommendations

[robits325is]

After three seasons I decided to replace the bearings and rings in my motor over the winter. I have heard rumors that the newest conventional oils do not contain the same ingredients as they used to and they won"t allow the motor to break-in properly. I"ve asked around a bit and most machine shops suggest using diesel grade conventional oil for break-in then switching to synthetic. Anyone here agree or disagree?
Thanks.

[tdw6974]

Rob, I think there was extensive discussion on the production board about the change in oil formulas(?) I know Rotella was mentioned as still having the better Formula for lubrication. We use Rotella in our tow vehicle. Since we don't have to be conerned about those things like lifters cams valves etc etc :rolleyes: did not do too much investigation. T W

[joeg]

Go to a non-synthetic Diesel oil--assuming you can live with the viscosity available.

[dj10]

Go to a non-synthetic Diesel oil--assuming you can live with the viscosity available.

I also agree with this too. Rings and bearings will seat in quickly, a good 1 hr on the engine you'll be ready to fly. I guess you know to vary the rpm's in the beginning. My engine builder told me you can use synthetic, it will just take a little longer to seat things in.

[shwah]

I used the Rotella diesel stuff for a few break in runs, a few dyno pulls and one qualifying session, then switched to Red Line (which dropped oil temps 20deg).

[MMiskoe]

Out of curiosity, did you come across anything that looked worn to the point of out of spec?

I've often wondered what the expected life span is of motors in cars doing this sort of racing.

[robits325is]

There was no visible wear at all. Cylinder walls looked perfect and the bearings were ok. Bearings and rings are a lot cheaper than BMW motors so I decided three years was enough.

[Chris Wire]

I was instructed by a well-respected circle track engine builder to use a non-detergent, straight -30 or -40wt and that seemed to work fine for me.

[924Guy]

I was instructed by a well-respected circle track engine builder to use a non-detergent, straight -30 or -40wt and that seemed to work fine for me.

That's what I've been using; specifically, Valvoline VR1 dino race oil, 40W, been very happy with it, bearings look very nice.

[bamfp]

Brad Penn 30wt is a great break in oil. Do you remember the old Kendall GT-1 that was green? Check out their website. www.bradpennracing.com

[Sandro]

I usually use Valvoline VR1 as it has alot of zinc and is easy to find. Here is an article from the prod forum that was referred to above:

http://prodracing.com/prodcar/viewtopic.php?t=5834&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=break+oil&start=0&sid=605b699b14854e5e72a7dc00eee80d15

[924Guy]

I should add, I was turned onto the VR1 by a coworker who drag races a Fiat-bodied rail... not quite a funny car, whatever's one step down?

Anyway, they don't ever break in an engine, since after all they only get a handful of passes on each build. They just fill'er up, and send 'er down the strip at full tilt! :eek: