240z Aluminum Radiator Question

[spawpoet]

Does anyone have experience with the Arizona Zcar aluminum racing radiators? Based on the responses on the oil cooler thread below we are replacing our stock radiator sooner rather than later. I know a Chevy roundy-round radiator can be adapted to the z a little more cheaply, but time is going to be an issue, and for $350 the Arizona Zcar product seems like a decent price for a bolt-in option. I just wanted to make sure others haven't had a bad experience with them before going forward. Thank you again for sharing your experience.

[x-ring]

I know zip about the AZC radiator, but instalation of a Ron Davis stock car radiator was pretty easy, presuming you have easy access to someone who can TIG weld. Per the sales rep at Davis I got the guys at work to weld me four short pieces of angle on the side tanks, drilled four holes in the angle, and bolted 'er up. A quick thumb through the hose catalog at NAPA and I was good to go.

The difference in cooling versus a three-row stock design radiator, especially at this altitude, was unbelievable.

[spawpoet]

I know zip about the AZC radiator, but instalation of a Ron Davis stock car radiator was pretty easy, presuming you have easy access to someone who can TIG weld. Per the sales rep at Davis I got the guys at work to weld me four short pieces of angle on the side tanks, drilled four holes in the angle, and bolted 'er up. A quick thumb through the hose catalog at NAPA and I was good to go.

The difference in cooling versus a three-row stock design radiator, especially at this altitude, was unbelievable.
So with the Ron Davis unit none of the filler neck, inlet, or outlet tubes needed to be cut down to install it? You just have to fabricate brackets? Thats an easier mod then what would have been required for the roundy-round radiator I knew about. Thank you for the info Ty.

[JeffYoung]

Ditto for Ron Davis. I have one in the TR8. 20-30 degree temp drop once I got the spoiler and ducting sorted.

Ron Davis as a BOLT IN TR8 radiator. I suspect that for few extra bucks, you can get one made for your car with the necessary hardware attachment. Or you can go the Ty route, get a standard size that fits and add the hardware yourself.

Again, highly recommend the Ron Davis stuff. High quality and keeps things cool.

[kthomas]

We ran a Ron Davis. His cores are epoxied to the tanks (IIRC), but we had no problems. Especially for the money. For a few extra bucks you can get him to convert the Chevy inlet and outlet to something else. In our case we found a hose to fit the inlet and welded a 90 on the outlet.

[spawpoet]

What can I expect to pay for one of his Chevy units? Only pricing he has on his site is for drop-in street units. Also is it correct that when we mount an aluminum radiator we need to insulate the mounts with rubber to prevent it corroding?

[JeffYoung]

I think my radiator, again of the drop in type, was $500 delivered. Not bad. I would expect a 240z to be less.

I do use rubber grommets where the radiator meets the upper and lower mounts, more for vibration dampening than anything else.

[x-ring]

I don't think my tanks are epoxied to the core, but I'll look at it this weekend. In any case, no leaks in two years.

The one I ordered is what he calls a 'stock car' radiator, just a roundy-round generic fit. I don't remember right off hand what size I got, but it was just one of his stock units. IIRC, it was under $300. It is a double-pass type, so both necks are on the right. The stock car units used to be on the web site; you might look again.

The deal was that I needed a radiator RIGHT NOW, when some problem came up during testing the weekend before a race. I called them on Monday afternoon, to see if they had a drop in fit in stock. They did not, but the sales rep convinced me to order the stock car unit. They shipped it Tuesday, I got it on Wednesday; Phoenix isn't far from here. I took it to work Thursday and got the welders to fix me up (BTW, one of the welders commented that the Davis welds were really nice) and installed it Thursday evening. Drove to the track on Friday and raced Saturday.

I didn't have to cut down the inlet or outlet necks. The outlet is pretty close to the stock location, but it is bigger, 1 3/4" I think. NAPA had a flex hose that is 1 3/4" on one end and 1 1/2" on the other that is about the right length. The inlet is on the wrong side, but it is the right size. I bought two 90s, also from NAPA. One goes on the T-stat housing, one on the radiator. I connected them with a piece of thin wall (maybe 0.06" or 0.09"?) aluminum tube.

Given the luxury of time, I'd probably order a double pass unit with the necks on the left, and put a water-to-oil heat exchanger in between the lower neck and the engine.

OK, I'm off to class. I'll talk to you guys later.

[tim240z]

Well, we went ahead and got the Arizona Zcar unit. We'll take pics and post our findings after gathering some data.

Thanks everyone.

[ITZ34]

i've bought a couple of them with no problem. Very nice workmanship and fit. No drain plug though...need to take off bottom hose to empty. They may be changing that.
Had one damaged in transit and they replaced it right away.

Maybe if I stopped hitting stuff I wouldn't need to buy more than one.:)

[tim240z]

Drains faster that way anyways ;)

I might see if I can put a drain in... if not its not that big of a deal.


i've bought a couple of them with no problem. Very nice workmanship and fit. No drain plug though...need to take off bottom hose to empty. They may be changing that.
Had one damaged in transit and they replaced it right away.

Maybe if I stopped hitting stuff I wouldn't need to buy more than one.:)

[joeg]

I deal with HOWE for custom rads. Great service.