Calling all Z driver's

[pballance]

It has been a little dead in here lately so how about some advise from the sage's for a noob.

I will be entering the world of SEDIV ITS with a 240z next year and while I am new to W2W, I am not new to the the Z or motorsports. Most of my high speed driving was done over a 25 year period in a Crown Vic interceptor :P .

I am trying to put together a list of spares to head to the track with. Other than the usual brake pads/shoes/fluids, etc. what are the common failure points on a race prepped Z?

I have half shafts that I plan on bringing, but what else should I bring along as well? Lower control arms?, front crossmember and rack? Give me some ideas so I can see if I already have them or have some time to get them.

Thanks in advance,
Paul :biggrinsanta:

[dspillrat]

Hi Paul,
Welcome to the world of ITS....
My Spares package includes:
Tranny, 1 good half shaft, 1 Stub axle.."and correct nut and flange!!!" ,, motor/tranny mounts Misc wiring, electrical stuff, important bolts...Tranny, strut nut,spare strut, pads, shoes, drum...

David

[zracre]

be sure your braking system is up to the task...and bring spares. My car was ultra reliable and the only failures I had were the roll pins inside the tranny (bring a spare gearbox...they are easy to change) and brake parts (extra pads/shoes/fluid). Be sure the alignment is good and rotate the tires around if you want them to last!! Good luck and enjoy! That is one of the most satisfying cars you can drive when they are right.

[pballance]

Hmm, I wouldn't have thought the transmission would break that easy. Oh well, so far I have everything you guys have mentioned. Before I bought the race car I managed to pick up a 72 parts car. Body was toast and while the RR suspension was no good, I got a lot of good parts from the rest of the car.

No for the list:

1. Brakes for front and rear+fluids and lines How about Master/wheel cylinder/caliper(s)
2. Half shaft(s)
3. Transmission and mounts (Mustache bar? as well as the fron limit strap)
4. Clutch/pressureplate/throwout bearing/ How about Master, slave and hydraulic hose
5. Stub axle with correct nut
6. Misc wiring, nuts, bolts, etc.
7.
8.



Ok, what else do I need to add. Thanks for the replys and keep'em coming. BTW, I already have Dave's book :114: Thanks Dave!

[x-ring]

How much room do you have in your trailer?

Seriously, keep in mind that these cars are 35 years old. Even 'new' stuff from a parts car is old.

Brakes. A new or reman caliper is way easier than trying to rebuild one at the track, and isn't very expensive. I carry two. These cars are brutal on front brakes. The dust boots around the pistons will probably crumble away from the heat in two weekends. I don't bother turning rotors. I can't detect any difference between OEM and checker auto rotors, and the checker auto ones are so cheap they're not worth the trouble to turn. I generally ruin two sets or rotors per set of pads (Hawk Blue), so an extra set is in the trailer (lightly used from my street car, not new).

I've never had a problem with the rears, except choking up the coin to buy new drums (and shoes).

Electrical. 30 year old car equals 30 year old wiring. 'Nuff said.

Did Spillman mention transmissions? <_< I can change one now in under 45 minutes. Either double pinning the forks or, even better, replacing the pins with socket head cap screws makes them last a LOT longer.

Motor mounts are cheap. I&#39;ve only ever had one fail, but they&#39;re easy to change if you have the part. Ditto transmission mounts, but I&#39;ve never broken one. I can&#39;t imagine a moustache bar failing. Those things are harder than a whore&#39;s heart. Ever try to drill one? It&#39;s like trying to drill a hole in a file.

Stub axles will fail on a semi regular basis if you run a welded diff. I&#39;m told they don&#39;t if you have a LS, but I wouldn&#39;t know.

Bring a good supply of metric nuts and bolts. Even if you check them regularly something will eventually shake loose.

I&#39;m sure I&#39;ll think of something else.

[Tom Donnelly]

Here&#39;s what I&#39;ve carried to the track as spares:

2 sets of wheel bearings (F & R) (new)
2 rotors (new, just in case)
2 rotors (used but not worn out as backups)
2 sets of pads
1 set of drums
1 set of shoes
1 master cylinder
2 sets of halfshafts (rebuilt)
2 sets of u-joints for the whole car
1 tranny
1 spare diff
2 sets of spark plugs
case of oil and filter
transmission fluid
lots of tie-wraps
safety wire
lots of duct tape

2 extra sets of wheels / tires (you can use a session to get a heat cycle on a new set)
Plus a set of rain tires

What I ended up using (besides the tires)

Lots of duct tape
brake fluid
safety wire
sometimes the brake pads

Usually if something broke I didn&#39;t have it, left it at home and borrowed from David or Mike. :D

Get it all fixed before you even get to the track is the best advice
I double pinned the shift forks too, and ran safety wire thru the middle.
That allowed the pin to brake but the wire held for the last 2 laps.
When I&#39;ve used a heavier pin I broke something more expensive.

At home I have a complete suspension, several sets of tires, exhaust system,
3 transmissions, 3 diffs and another set of carbs. Working on a spare engine.

Tom

[pballance]

How much room do you have in your trailer?

[/b]
Never enough, but for now I can still fit your suggestions in the tow vehicle/open trailer



Stub axles will fail on a semi regular basis if you run a welded diff. I&#39;m told they don&#39;t if you have a LS, but I wouldn&#39;t know.
[/b]
Currently welded, but I have an open and an R-190 as spares, well check that, Hopefully I can get the 190 rebuilt in the next couple of weeks, install it and used the welded as a spare.

I&#39;ve got a complete non running engine, but need to rebuild. Not sure I would haul the thing anyway. Right now I know I won&#39;t be competitive I just need to concentrate on staying out of the way of the rest of you. :P

You have already made me think of some things I wouldn&#39;t have thought of otherwise

1. Brakes for front (rotor, caliper, and pads) rear (drum and shoes) +fluids, lines and Master cylinder
2. Half shaft(s)
3. Transmission and motor mounts (Pin/wire the shift forks)
4. Clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing and master/slave cylinder
5. Stub axle with correct nut
6. Misc wiring, nuts, bolts, Safety wire, duct tape, etc.
7. F/R wheel bearings
8. Drive shaft/u-joints
9. Spare diff
10. Extra wheels (bring rains as well)
11. Plugs
12.


Okay, what else needs added? BTW, I am assuming NGK plugs but the PO of my car has Champion or A/C in them right now. Also, how about Dizzy/coil/sensor modules?

[kthomas]

Did anybody mention brakes?

We used solid 4mm bolt stock for tranny pins. Took care of that little problem. 3rd gear is the next weak link, but we always carried an entire prepped tranny as a spare.

Water pump belt. In 69+ race weekends the only thing to ever DNF us (besides accidents) was a water pump belt. Now we did break a stub axle once on a welded diff but finished, although I have seen cars totalled because of that failure. I prefer you never need that spare at the track. And we did break roll pins but never DNF&#39;d because of it.

Brakes.

Pressure plate. Unless you get something with "4 straps" you will fold up the 2 straps on a stocker eventually. Never needed anything else clutch related. Actually didn&#39;t need a spare pressure plate either but loaned the spare out on several occasions.

Gee, the only time we ever broke a spark plug was if we dropped it. But I suppose we had a spare set. NGK. A Z will be mad at you if you put Champions in it. All the stuff you have on the list is good.

Brakes.

Spare tires for the trailer. By far the most used spares of all.

We used to have 4 sets of wheels. One set had the tires on it for the race, which were the previous event&#39;s qualifiers. One set was used in qualifying, which is just about the right amount of time for breaking them in, which in the case of Hoosiers means you don&#39;t take them out of the dark for at least a week after that. One set was "good, used" for practice, and the fourth set of wheels was for the rains, which if you spend a lot of money on means you will never have the opportunity to use them (probability of rain is inversely proportional to the money spent on rain tires). We would have liked another set of wheels for an intermediate tire.

If prepped right, you never need a spare, of course. Except for brakes. Anybody mention that? For the last few years of our Z program our spares spent more time in other peoples cars than in our trailer, which is one of the great things about club racing....

Now you want a list, ask me about D Sports Racing. We had spares for the spares....

[pballance]

Did anybody mention brakes?

We used solid 4mm bolt stock for tranny pins. Took care of that little problem. 3rd gear is the next weak link, but we always carried an entire prepped tranny as a spare.

Brakes.

Brakes.

Now you want a list, ask me about D Sports Racing. We had spares for the spares....
[/b]

Thanks for the tranny fix, I seem to see a pattern developing here.

BRAKES :bash_1_:

I have three extra sets of wheels right now so that one won&#39;t be a problem.

DSR, hmmmm, good friend has one. He is currently installing the new motor so he can race next year. He and I have discussed how many spares he will need. Let&#39;s just say I fully understand the need for spares of the spares of the spares.

Thanks again to you all. I am sure someone else has something to add.

[ITZ34]

Sounds like you guys have it covered.

:dead_horse: Front brakes, hubs, rotors, bearings, ball joints, bushings, WP belt, alternator, stub axle, rearend,MSD box, coil, plugs, Pertronix,duct hose, plus the usual maintenance fluids, and hardware. We were carrying all 4 corner suspension assemblies, but felt we were getting carried away. Does come in handy if you get tagged though.

Haven&#39;t thought about bringing a spare tranny, probably should.

Our car has been pretty reliable, but it always is up on stands and we&#39;re snooping around every time it comes off track. 30 year old cars and parts need attention.

Dave Ciufo

[JeffYoung]

I&#39;d carry a distributor. Don&#39;t drive a Z, but have a 25 year old ITS car and they fail. Steve Parrish had one fail in November on his Z.

[Parrish57]

The short answer is, as Ty pointed out, bring whatever you have room for on the tow rig!

When I first started racing Z cars there were so many at the track that you could find any widget that you needed. With fewer cars on the track now, you need to be self reliant. I&#39;ve had my share of DNF&#39;s and here&#39;s the short list of causes:

1. Tranny (roll pins)
2. Fan belt
3. Distributor (Pertronix Ignition module, actually)

Did anyone mention brakes?

Steve Parrish
1970 ITS 240Z #57

[jmark]

It has been a little dead in here lately so how about some advise from the sage&#39;s for a noob.

I will be entering the world of SEDIV ITS with a 240z next year and while I am new to W2W, I am not new to the the Z or motorsports. Most of my high speed driving was done over a 25 year period in a Crown Vic interceptor :P .

I am trying to put together a list of spares to head to the track with. Other than the usual brake pads/shoes/fluids, etc. what are the common failure points on a race prepped Z?

I have half shafts that I plan on bringing, but what else should I bring along as well? Lower control arms?, front crossmember and rack? Give me some ideas so I can see if I already have them or have some time to get them.

Thanks in advance,
Paul :biggrinsanta:
[/b]Paul, Glad to see another 240Z coming out to play. I don&#39;t race them but I own a couple and really enjoy shooting pics of them. I usually shoot VIR, RA, Roebling. Hope to see ya out there.

[kthomas]

Oh, forgot gaskets. Especially the manifold gasket.

What state did you drive your Interceptor in? Forget it, doesn&#39;t matter, if it was in the southeast I proly got a ticket from you anyway...

[pballance]

Oh, forgot gaskets. Especially the manifold gasket.

What state did you drive your Interceptor in? Forget it, doesn&#39;t matter, if it was in the southeast I proly got a ticket from you anyway...
[/b]

Huntsville and unless you were in triple digits, I probably didn&#39;t write it but may have been on the business end of the laser/radar.

Thanks for the help guys. I hope to make school at RR and at least one event at RA. Barber and Memphis are on the list as well.

Now I wonder if the team owner will understand a Christmas list that says Stub axle, roll pin/safety wire for Z tranny, etc.. :happy204: :happy204: :happy204:

[x-ring]

That depends on your Santa.

Last year mine brought me ten new Hoosiers. This year I&#39;m asking for a new air compressor.

She&#39;ll probably have a hell of a time getting that down the chimney. :biggrinsanta:

[JeffYoung]

Now that is a Santa. I want that West Coast Santa. East Coast Santa just brings me caliper rebuild kits....

[x-ring]

Odd, I always assumed that Santa moved across the country east to west, with the setting sun, after the good little racers went to bed, and that the reindeer local union made sure that Santa unloaded the heavy stuff first.

:snow_cool: :snow_cool: :snow_cool:

Shows what I know.

[pballance]

Paul, Glad to see another 240Z coming out to play. I don&#39;t race them but I own a couple and really enjoy shooting pics of them. I usually shoot VIR, RA, Roebling. Hope to see ya out there.
[/b]

Thanks, I look forward to being out there and hopefully I will be able to stay out of the fast guys way.




That depends on your Santa.
:biggrinsanta:
[/b]

Well, she said order what I needed and she would write the check so I guess it will be Ho, ho, ho this year after all. :emgift: :emgift: :emgift: :emgift:

BTW, she also told me to get off my A%^ and get the 24&#39;x32&#39; shop built to hold the race care, spares, etc. :OLA: I am meeting with the contractor next week :023:

[fingertight]

Is the R190 legal in a ITS 240Z? I though R180&#39;s were the only legal size for the 240Z&#39;s.

Getting the rotors cryo treated & they&#39;ll last longer, but it&#39;s illegal. Just saves you money.

There&#39;s lot&#39;s of 4 speeds available cheap. I have three I can&#39;t seem to give away. The stock OEM replacement pins I&#39;ve bought from Nissan are a improved spiral wound design and legal. I never broke one. I suggest Red Line MTL for the gear box. However there are other lubricants equal to or better than Red Line.

Don&#39;t fill the gear box up to where it comes out the fill drain plug. I suggest 1/2 inch down from plug.

I was shot down pretty hard by the SCCA for making improvements that inhanced the reliability of my Nissan.

Safe Racing,
Harry

[JeffYoung]

GCR 17.37 allows cryo treatment.

[Tom Donnelly]

"I have three I can&#39;t seem to give away"

Where are you located? If you&#39;re giving away three transmissions that work I&#39;ll take all 3.

Tom

[Nickel Dime]

Somethings I carry for my 510 (not already mentioned) are starter, alternator and radiater hoses.

Has any body had any problems breaking diff mounts? I&#39;ve gone through 2 on my street/track car 280Z.

Also in case nobody else has mentioned it - brakes, brakes and more brakes.

[kthomas]

"Has any body had any problems breaking diff mounts?"

Stock ones will break all the time. Unfortunately, stock is all that&#39;s allowed in the IT rules. You can either put a twist in the leather strap thingy that wraps across the top of the nose of the diff so that there isn&#39;t any slack in it (if you do it right it takes a floor jack to get the diff back up in there), or you can have an accident with the drill. Not that I would condone such a thing, but if you accidently drill a couple longitudinal (fore-aft) 3/8 holes in your stock diff mount and insert a rod in each one and weld them in and grind the welds flush and then paint it black and put the factory part number sticker back over it nobody will ever know you accidently drilled the holes. And, by amazing coincidence, you will quit having to buy new diff mounts every other race.
;)