VW Parts

[backformore]

OK, so I'm starting the winter rebuild on the Scirocco. Everyone agrees that using top quality parts is the way to go, especially for bearings, hubs, etc. So, where is/are sources for good quality parts? Dealers, ask NAPA for highest quality, other?

I'm sure there will be plenty more ?s as this is the first VW I've raced. Thanks in advance.

[flaboy]

Billdon motorsports is a great place to start.Since your in the Atlanta area i would try mabe OPM motorsports and see if they have any parts left over,currently they are running hondas and miatas. But i wouldn't hurt to ask them.

Tim
ITC rabitt

[backformore]

I've talked to some of the guys at OPM. They can help me out with prep/fab, etc., but I got the sense they are out of the VW parts business.

[shwah]

I recommend 247-parts.com. The proprieter, Gary, is a VW racer himself, and is a good guy. They have everything from OEM stuff, to racing specific items like delerin Golf cross member bushings, ARP harware, suspension bushings etc. You may not find all of the racing stuff on the website, so I suggest you give them a call.

[sneville44]

For general OEM parts AudiCarParts.com http://www.audicarparts.com/ has some really good prices on VW parts. I have had good service from them recently.

[backformore]

It's interesting that I have several links for parts that use almost an identical menu/search engine. I can't help but wonder if they are all the same folks. Different links do seem to have different prices, so it is worth looking at them all. The audicarparts.com is one of these similiar links and does seem to have cheaper parts.

The question still remaims, even ordering through these sources, how do I verify or ensure the quality?

[JLawton]

Go with Bildon and Shine. You'll never have to worry about quality or being steered wrong. They're both VW racers.

[JamesB]

Too many good places to recommend. You have those above plus long term guys that have been supporting VW's for years when it comes to quality maintinence parts. Mike Potter out west at www.parts4vws.com, you have the boys at Adirondack in NY that have never failed me on quality OE replacements. I am a bargain hunter, its the only way to keep costs down, so I might check 4-5 places prices and go with whomever I can get the best parts for less to my door.

[Eric Parham]

Napa sells TIMKIN roller bearings for the front hubs. The dealer and most aftermarket have SKF or FAG ball bearings (and lesser brands). The roller bearings last longer, but are probably slower. YMMV.

On the issue of the hubs themselves, be VERY careful. Some off brand cast junk is available now instead of the forged OEM versions. I ended up with one that I wouldn't even give away.

[Bill Miller]

There are sevral good sources, many of which have already been listed here. I've always run SKF front and rear wheel bearings and haven't had a problem. I'm not sure who the OEM was on the hubs, but try to find them. I use Lobro CV joints/axles and ATE or Brembo rotors.

[RSTPerformance]

Got to plug the sponsor...

Force 5 Automotive (www.force5auto.com)

Chris (the owner) is great. He has a lot of experience with rally cars, and over the past 5-6 years we along with several other NER VW drivers have him up to speed on Road Racing stuff. He wont get anything for you that is not "race worthy" as he is a stickler on reliability (the rally guy in him). He an get anything you may want for a VW or an Audi used or new from the dealer or any other source.

Mention our name when you call him so he knows we are giving him plugs!!!

Raymond

[backformore]

THanks Raymond. Nice 1 stop shopping. I'm in the SE so hopefully shipping will not be prohibitive.

Thank you also Bill. That is probably the kind of information I ultimately need. I can find plenty of places to buy alll kinds of parts but I need to know what brands to buy or not buy. Generic stuff like bearings, brake rotors, etc I usually am familiar enough to recognize good brands. Hubs, axles and the like I am not sure.

Any more input will be welcomed.

[sneville44]

Glad to see Bill's endorsement of SKF wheel bearings (which I normally buy) and were also recommended by some of my engineer/gearhead buddies.

As far as hubs, my VW racer/buddy/pro-mechanic Carlos Suarez says to only buy FEBI hubs, which are German-made.

[Bill Miller]

Scott,

Febi is a logical OEM source for hubs, as they were OEM for a lot of VW parts. I use Febi ball joints.

What I've found w/ A1 VW hubs/wheels bearings, is that they're a consumable product. I've heard that cryo-treating the hubs (legal AFAIK) prolongs their life. But, I don't think anything will help if you don't have the axle nut tight enough. I subscribe to the 'jack handle over the breaker bar w/ three friends standing on it' approach. I really don't think there is such a thing as 'too tight' for them. My friend has a 3/4" drive impact gun that's hooked to a compressor that normally runs at 175 psi. I think it moves 35 scfm @ 90 psi. I've never measured the torque, but I'd bet it's North of 400 ft-lbs.

The moral of the story is, use good parts, torque the crap out of the axle nut (new one every time it's off), re-torque them every weekend, and change them every 5 or 6 weekends. It's cheap insurance against the alternative. Also, just about everyone that I know that races and A1 VW w/ stock hubs, has had one fail (myself included). Some have been lucky, and not had the wheel leave the car. Others not so.

Also, I only use German knuckles, not the Brazilian ones.

[backformore]

Well Bill, since you mention it. Where do you get your German Knuckles? Are knuckles consumables, or just hubs and bearings?

[Bill Miller]

Just saw this, sorry for the late reply.

Most of the early A1 knuckles are the German ones. I'm not sure if all the Westmorland Rabbits had Brazilan knuckles or not. They say 'Germany' or 'Brazil' on them, so they're easy to tell.

And IMHO< they&#39;re not consumable. I have two sets, one that are on the car, and the others that are fresh, as spares. When I swap the fresh ones in, I just put new hubs and bearings in the ones that came off, and they become the new spares.