91 CRX Si ITA Build

[raffaelli]

So, I have tooled around with the car long enough, time to start building it. Had an 'incident' with the car which forced me to replace the driver fender and hood etc. So I started to pull it part the other day. I have collected the parts I need to fix it. I will do that first then track prep it.

Right now, I am looking to be track ready in the Fall of 07. This is a family project that we will pick at as time and money allow.

A bunch of you have already helped me out with advice and such, thank you. Any input you haved is appreciated!

How do you suggest I fix the solid sunroof panel. I want to remove the track, motor, etc. What is the prefered method to fix the panel?

I was thinking of welding flat stock.

[iagreen]

I bolted mine with small aluminum angle that went between the panel fixing points and the side seams of the opening. I also saw a nice job on another car where they bent the side seams over than pinched them between the panel and the metal bracket that surounds the panel.

If your pinched for money, make sure you get out what you can. If your sunroof is working properly it is worth decent money on ebay. Mine worked fine and I took a short video of it opening and closing and got $90 for it on ebay without the panel. Some of the ones on ebay with rust-free panels were going for $200.

[charrbq]

I covered the hole on my old A car with a "skillfully" cut piece of smoked plexiglas. Drew a bead of silicone close to the edge of the plastic, then pop riveted it to the roof. I've seen better, and I've seen worse, but few have been lighter. That sun roof stuff is heavy!

[stevel]

I've seen better, and I've seen worse, but few have been lighter.
[/b]

Not that I'm a rules nerd, but what you did isn't legal either.

To the OP, per the rules you're supposed to use a sheet of metal the same gauge as the surrounding roof. The cleanest ways I have seen is people make a cardboard template of the hole and trace that to a piece of sheet metal and then trace another that follows the original but enlarged by say 3/4" to an 1" all the way around. They cut that, you could use tin snips, and the extra is that you have is cut into tabs so to speak and bent at a 90" angle. So, you now hae a piece of metal that will just fit right in and then just bend those tabs back and use them as places to rivet/sheet metal screw to something secure around it.

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=530379&page=2

see the post about half way down by keithv to see what I'm talking about.

s

[raffaelli]

I bolted mine with small aluminum angle that went between the panel fixing points and the side seams of the opening. I also saw a nice job on another car where they bent the side seams over than pinched them between the panel and the metal bracket that surounds the panel.

If your pinched for money, make sure you get out what you can. If your sunroof is working properly it is worth decent money on ebay. Mine worked fine and I took a short video of it opening and closing and got $90 for it on ebay without the panel. Some of the ones on ebay with rust-free panels were going for $200.
[/b]


For sure everything pulled off the car will be up for sale. The sunroof works perfectly.



Not that I'm a rules nerd, but what you did isn't legal either.

To the OP, per the rules you're supposed to use a sheet of metal the same gauge as the surrounding roof. The cleanest ways I have seen is people make a cardboard template of the hole and trace that to a piece of sheet metal and then trace another that follows the original but enlarged by say 3/4" to an 1" all the way around. They cut that, you could use tin snips, and the extra is that you have is cut into tabs so to speak and bent at a 90" angle. So, you now hae a piece of metal that will just fit right in and then just bend those tabs back and use them as places to rivet/sheet metal screw to something secure around it.

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=530379&page=2

see the post about half way down by keithv to see what I'm talking about.

s
[/b]


Perfect, thank you, this is exaclty what I was thinking if I removed the panel altogether.

Do you think 2 rails in the 1/3rd points running front to back should be installed? Say 1/2"x1/2" to give the roof some strength? Or do you think the panel is good enough?

[stevel]

Do you think 2 rails in the 1/3rd points running front to back should be installed? Say 1/2"x1/2" to give the roof some strength? Or do you think the panel is good enough?
[/b]

I haven't seen the need for it. Don't forget you have the halo from the cage protecting you and the roof will hold up just fine, especially with that panel in. Though if you have the time and the means it certainly can't hurt. Just make sure it doesn't interfere with your noggen.

s

[gran racing]

Instead of bending the sheet metal "into the sunroof hole" you can just lay the sheetmetal on top of the roof, drill holes (I did mine about 1" apart) and rivet the new skin into place. Start from the middle, goto the other side, then begin working your way to the sides of each car alternating sides. Having a helper pull the metal tight is useful. (Also put a bead of silicone around the opening before laying the cut metal on top.) If you take your time, it will come out nice.

An pretty cool place to get the sheet is www.onlinemetals.com

(There was a discussion about sunroof plugs a while back that discusses some of the methods and goes into a bit further detail.)

[dickita15]

Instead of bending the sheet metal "into the sunroof hole" you can just lay the sheetmetal on top of the roof, drill holes (I did mine about 1" apart) and rivet the new skin into place. Start from the middle, goto the other side, then begin working your way to the sides of each car alternating sides. Having a helper pull the metal tight is useful. (Also put a bead of silicone around the opening before laying the cut metal on top.) If you take your time, it will come out nice.

An pretty cool place to get the sheet is www.onlinemetals.com

(There was a discussion about sunroof plugs a while back that discusses some of the methods and goes into a bit further detail.)
[/b]

And this simple instalation method is described nicely in a new book by some guy named Dave Gran.

[charrbq]

Not that I'm a rules nerd, but what you did isn't legal either.

To the OP, per the rules you're supposed to use a sheet of metal the same gauge as the surrounding roof.


[/b]
Sorry, I did say my old car. When it was done, the rule allowing us to remove the sunroof was new, and we still had to run the passenger seat. Since I no longer have a sunroof car, I didn't know the rule had changed. My bad.

[raffaelli]

:006: Thank you guys for the input.

[raffaelli]

FINALLY, the car is in the garage. :026:

Been waiting for this day for a long time. Remodel of the basement and rediculaous hours at the office have delayed me months!

Are there any speed shops I can goto ( I am near Poughkeepsie, NY) that I can start to touch and feel parts, seats, harness, etc?

I sat in Doug Case's car. That seat, Kirky, felt great. Anyone know what size that is?

I am hoping to have the interior cleaned out in a week or so. :happy204:

[raffaelli]

I ran over to Behrents yesterday. Nice group of guys. Jeff Behrent spent some time to show me around the equipement. Of course they mentioned I should talk to Tom about setting up the car.......

I came home with a Kirky Intermidiate Road Race Seat with a cover, Impact suit and gloves.

I made contact with Chris Howard, I am on his schedule. He is about 5 weeks from being ready for me. :eclipsee_steering:

[Bob Roth]

FYI, I have a Del Sol Drivers seat slider assembly modified for bolt up to any flat bottom seat (Kirky seat), in the garage. It bolts to the stock mounting points. $20 plus postage and its yours. Its a pro fabricated piece, probably costing me $100. Unfortunately I put it in my Sol and found I was sitting to tall so now we are bolted straight to floor.

I believe the Sol and the CRX seat mounts are the same, It's floor mounting hole areapprox 14.5" front to back and side to side between mounting points.

Word of caution though, any height above 5 - 10 and you start having helmet hitting roll bar issues. You can email me [email protected]

[raffaelli]

Thanks Bob. I am taller than 5'-10" so I think that I should mount right to the floor.



Spent a snow day today pulling out the interior.

Is there an easy way to pull off the sound insulation? heat?

[Gregg]

Is there an easy way to pull off the sound insulation? heat?
[/b]
Depending on where you are and how cold it is right now, a flat-head screwdriver and few taps of a hammer might do the job. If not, I've made very quick work of it on a few CRX's with a block of dry ice and the above implements. Just lay it out for 30 sec's or so and tap. The stuff wil shatter before your eyes.

[iagreen]

I rolled my car outside one night when it was below freezing. Then took to it with a dead blow the next morning. 98% of it was out in about 5 mins.

[snook]

Dry ice works wonders on the black stuff on the inside. I found heat will degrade it but it will burn and is rather smokey when it does! If you can liguid nitrogen will work very well, the car should be on a rotissere(sp) at least on it's side. I've not look for it locally but understand it's fairly cheap the most expensive part is the deposit for the dewar.

Martyn

[R2 Racing]

Whatever you do, don't use heat! You will just end up with a gooey mess. As Gregg and Ian said, just let it sit out during a cold night and then whack it with a hammer - stuff pops right off. You might have little tiny pieces left, but they can be chiseled up.

[Andy Bettencourt]

If you leave it outside to freeze, make sure you have a good plan for any water that may be in the engine if it's still in the car. Don't want to crack a block.

[raffaelli]

Thanks guys. I will down the heat down in the garage tonight to see if I can chip it off. If not, I will leave it outside for a bit....it was 11 degrees here this morning.

Here are some photos.

[Domino]

Welcome to the CRX club.

[raffaelli]

Thanks!

[gran racing]

Instead of using a screw driver, get a cement chisel (I believe that's what it it :) ) that's about 1.5" wide. Or use whatever you have in your garage that is similar. That will get 98% of it out.

See ya at Lime Rock in a couple of months. :D

[raffaelli]

Instead of using a screw driver, get a cement chisel (I believe that's what it it :) ) that's about 1.5" wide. Or use whatever you have in your garage that is similar. That will get 98% of it out.

See ya at Lime Rock in a couple of months. :D
[/b]


Thanks!

I bought your book yesterday. Looking forward to reading it.

[raffaelli]

About the wiring...


All of the abandoned wiring...can I coil it up and stick it in the dashboard? (Maybe put it in the glove box :happy204: ) Or does it need to be kept where the factory put it?

And the little plastic things that hold the wire in place...can I replace with a sheet metal screw through a zip tie?

[raffaelli]

I received Dave's book today. Great read! I am certainly not a reader (don't have the attention span for it) I am about half way through it.

Thanks for signing it Dave!

[raffaelli]

I picked up Impacts two layer suit. It if well in the shop, but when I got home, maybe I had too much pasta that day.....didn't fit well at all. I am going to return it.

Then I read Dave's book....He mentioned the costs of suits and they were half of what I paid. I was looking around the internet to see what he was talking about. Sure enough, I see the G Force suit is in the range Dave quoted.

Why the big price difference? Name?

What is the general opinion on G Force equipment?

[lateapex911]

I look at G Force as good stuff, but it lacks some Pizazz...when compared to say, a Sparco. Side by side, the Sparco is probably cut better, and has nicer features, stiching and so on, but the G-Force gets the job done.

The other issue is material and protection, as certain suits are made from materials that are supposed to be resistant for longer. Kirk K seems to know a ton about this, he might have more to add.

[spnkzss]

I consider Gforce as getting the job done. Sparco, Simpson and such as luxury. I like the gforce stuff. especially some of their new suits. My original gforce suit is hot and heavy. I have been looking for a new suit, and am looking at the new gforce. I use gforce suit, gloves, shoes, belts, and net. I have for 5 years now.

[raffaelli]

Thanks for the information. I think I will start thinking about other brands.



I was taking apart the HVAC today. Found a lovley birds nest.......with a bird skeleton! :blink:

[JLawton]

The heat issue is the biggest difference (besides style) in my opinion. If you're running in a hot area or plan on doing enduros, a good suit or cooling system will help.

[wacrxguy]

I have this g force suit here (http://www.safedrives.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GF545Suit&cat=35) and like it a lot. It seems light weight and it fits well. I have heard a lot of vendors say that it is comparable to much more expensive suits. the only downside is that it is offered in small, medium, large, extra large type sizes so if you dont fit into one of those sizes then you are kinda SOL. do make sure that the suit is a little bit on the larger size as apposed to the small size though.

[R2 Racing]

My suit is a custom made 3-layer Simpson. My socks are also from Simpson.

My gloves are OMP.

My shoes and helmet are G Force.

I really, really like all of them. The Simpson and OPM stuff was relatively expensive but damn they're nice. The G Force stuff was relatively cheap, but they do a great job too. The newer G-Force stuff they kind of stepped up their "appearance" on. Their stuff just doesn't have the cheaper look and feel that it use to. At least not as much. So that's why I bought their shoes and helmet a year ago when I needed some new ones.

[raffaelli]

Do I want a 5 point or 6 point harness? Does it matter much? Seems like a 5 point would be more comfortable.



About the wiring...
All of the abandoned wiring...can I coil it up and stick it in the dashboard? (Maybe put it in the glove box :happy204: ) Or does it need to be kept where the factory put it?

And the little plastic things that hold the wire in place...can I replace with a sheet metal screw through a zip tie?
[/b]


Can I coil up the abandoned wire and stick it in the dash?


By the way, the family and I are really enjoying learning and building a car together. :023:

[Domino]

Just the opposite 6 is more comfortable then a 5. But then again it depends on the belt manufacturer and how they design it. I have the Schroth Profi II and absolutely love it. Quality is absolutely first rate. The 2" vs 3" lap belt is more comfortable. It's FIA approved so it will in compliance with the rules longer. And you can change it from a pull-up to pull-down and vice versa. You'll spend a little more but it's worth every penny.

http://english.schroth.com/racing/produktd...?id=5&id_kat1=1 (http://english.schroth.com/racing/produktdetail.php?id=5&id_kat1=1)

[raffaelli]

Just the opposite 6 is more comfortable then a 5. But then again it depends on the belt manufacturer and how they design it. I have the Schroth Profi II and absolutely love it. Quality is absolutely first rate. The 2" vs 3" lap belt is more comfortable. It's FIA approved so it will in compliance with the rules longer. And you can change it from a pull-up to pull-down and vice versa. You'll spend a little more but it's worth every penny.

http://english.schroth.com/racing/produktd...?id=5&id_kat1=1 (http://english.schroth.com/racing/produktdetail.php?id=5&id_kat1=1)
[/b]

Thank you! 6 Point it is.

[raffaelli]

So I am shopping for a kill switch. Quite honestly I am not up to speed on the electrical system for a car...but reading about it everyday. I see that there is a switch which includes a resistor for alternator protection. Is that the switch I need or can I use the one without protection?

[Domino]

I cut and pasted this from a post some years back. No need for a resistor.


I wired my car (1990 CRX Si) as such:

Remove the large white wire from the alternator (output wire) and from the main fuse panel in the engine compartment. You can remove this wire completly from the wiring harness if you wish, I did, in order to ensure that it did not splice or "t" to any other circuits. It didn't.

Remove the stock battery (+) cable that goes from the battery to the main fuse panel and to the starter. Disconnect all three connections. Again, discard, if you wish. I removed the crimp on battery terminal from this wire and re-used it.

Install a white wire (or any colour you wish) from the alternator to one side of the disconnect switch. I used #10 wire, 12 or 14 is probably fine.

To the same side of the disconnect switch, run a red wire from the positive battery terminal. I used #6 wire, #8 is likely OK, Honda starters don't require a lot of juice.

From the OTHER side of the disconnect switch, run another large red wire to the starter.

From the starter, run another short wire (#10 is likely fine, I used #6) to the main fuse panel and connect it to the left terminal. This terminal is fused through the 60a main fuse, the other one (now unused) is not fused through the main fuse.

That does it!

To summarize, both possible sources of power (battery and alternator) are disconnected and isolated from the rest of the car through the switch. Any consumer of power, including alternator excitation, fuel pump, ignition, etc. is completely cut off by the switch.

Also, there is a path for the alternator current to flow to (momentarily) when you activate (move to OFF position) the switch, through the battery, which protects the alternator diodes.

[raffaelli]

Perfect. Thank you. :birra:

[raffaelli]

I sent the car to a body shop to check the chassis and unibody for straightness. Some minor work required to the unibody at the drivers headight. All else is good.

Spent Saturday trailering the car up to Chris Howard to build the cage and mount the seat !!!!! :happy204: :happy204: :happy204:

The kill switch, window net and hood pins arrived.

[raffaelli]

Some advice on the steering wheel please...

What is the deal with the costs of the after market wheels?


Due to my 'mass' I am going to need to be able to remove the wheel to get in and out. Can I get the hub from Pegasus (http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3400) and mount the OEM steering wheel to it? I notice that some of the circle track mail order places show wheels in the $2-30 range.


Can someone please give me a clue?

[raffaelli]

The cage and seat are in! Chris Howard did a great job.

http://www.putfile.com/raffaelli/images/83179

[tom91ita]

i loved the photos showing that the windshield washer bottle and heater/fan are still installed!

[raffaelli]

Thanks! Trying to stay on the safe side of legal.

[raffaelli]

Any input into locating the window net? Up and toward the rear seem to be the best? Keeping it out of veiw of the mirror?


Finally got my new welder wired up and am going to learn on some scrap I have, then put the tabs on for the net and kill switch.

[tom91ita]

i've got the window net set up to be quick release at top and bottom. I have a relatively solid strapping on "edge" through the netting. an earlier version was too small of an all-thread that was pretty flimsy.

also, pay close attention to any tabs that could be in the way during a rapid exit with the helmut off or when leaning into the car to get something.

also, i like the thin mesh that is not that obvious there is anything for visibility as opposed to the more conventional 1" wide solid webbing.

all of this is personal preference.

[raffaelli]

thanks tom.

[raffaelli]

I have seen a few cars with a mount for the switch very similar (if not exactly) to the mount in the link for the photo below. Any idea where this came from?

http://picasaweb.google.com/MadFrog71/Mf1/...816850503187410 (http://picasaweb.google.com/MadFrog71/Mf1/photo#5048816850503187410)

[silverkorn]

http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item...id=978&catid=14 (http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=978&catid=14)

[raffaelli]

Thanks, I have that switch. I was looking for the bracket it is mounted to. I looked around and can't find a pre-fab one. I will cut one up this weekend around trips over to LRP.

[raffaelli]

9.1.3.f. Carpets, center consoles, floor mats, headliners, sun roof liner and frame, dome lights, grab handles, and their insulating, attaching or operating mechanisms may be removed. Door interior trim panels may be replaced with 0.060” aluminum securely attached to the door. All other interior trim panels, except the dashboard, may be removed. Other than to provide for the installation of required safety equipment or other authorized modifications, no other driver/passenger compartment alterations or gutting are permitted. The door window glass, window operating mechanism, and inside door latch/lock operating mechanism may be removed and the inner door structural panel may be modified, but not removed. The stock side impact beam, if equipped, and the outside door latch/lock operating mechanism shall not be removed or modified. This gutting of the door shall only be made if roll cage incorporates NASCAR-style side protection extending into the door.



While at Limerock this weekend, I was looking at a bunch on ITA cars. I have a question about the passenger door. If I read this correctly, I can remove the passenger door glass and glass operating mechanism? The last sentence referring to 'this' gutting is in reference to the previous sentence or the entire passage?

[Andy Bettencourt]

9.1.3.f. Carpets, center consoles, floor mats, headliners, sun roof liner and frame, dome lights, grab handles, and their insulating, attaching or operating mechanisms may be removed. Door interior trim panels may be replaced with 0.060" aluminum securely attached to the door. All other interior trim panels, except the dashboard, may be removed. Other than to provide for the installation of required safety equipment or other authorized modifications, no other driver/passenger compartment alterations or gutting are permitted. The door window glass, window operating mechanism, and inside door latch/lock operating mechanism may be removed and the inner door structural panel may be modified, but not removed. The stock side impact beam, if equipped, and the outside door latch/lock operating mechanism shall not be removed or modified. This gutting of the door shall only be made if roll cage incorporates NASCAR-style side protection extending into the door.

While at Limerock this weekend, I was looking at a bunch on ITA cars. I have a question about the passenger door. If I read this correctly, I can remove the passenger door glass and glass operating mechanism? The last sentence referring to 'this' gutting is in reference to the previous sentence or the entire passage? [/b]

It looks like you have traditional X bars.

These are not the 'NASCAR style' bars you must have that allow you to 'gut' that door. If you looked at my car, you saw the entire stock trim panel housing the crank window and mechanism because I too have just an 'X'.

[raffaelli]

Yes, I have the X bars. I did look at your car also. Seems kind of silly to me to have the glass in that door. Do you know the reasoning behind keeping the glass in the door?



I will keep all the inerts of the door together, but I will replace the finish panel will the 060 aluminum (looks more racecar to me)

[Xian]

Yes, I have the X bars. I did look at your car also. Seems kind of silly to me to have the glass in that door. Do you know the reasoning behind keeping the glass in the door?
[/b]
I would presume that the rules were changed to allow removal of the parts b/c some felt that NASCAR bars were needed for additional safety. I would imagine prior the allowance for NASCAR bars you would have ben unable to remove these items. I'm sure Andy would have more info on the history/evolution of the rule.



I will keep all the inerts of the door together, but I will replace the finish panel will the 060 aluminum (looks more racecar to me)
[/b]
Not to sound like an ass (even though it may come across as such), the rules weren't written to make the cars involved look "racey". They were written for safety and to create a relatively level playing field across many different marques.

Christian, who doesn't like all of the rules in the GCR but loves the overall rules structure.

[raffaelli]

Thanks for your input, no, don't sound like an ass to me.



Some of the rules do make me kinda scratch my head, this one included. Seems like keeping the glass in the door raises increases the risk for on track debris problems. I understand that the rules don't account for the 'racey' feeling of a car, but it looks wierd to me. Retaining the interior of my E46M3 in Touring is the reason that I have not changed that to a race car - just looks weird to have a race car with leather.



Either way, rules are rules, so no problem retaining the inerts.



Does 9.1.3.b allow me to remove the window and lift if my reason to remove it is saftey and not performance advantage?



9.1.3.b Other than those specifically allowed by these rules, no component or part normally found on a stock example of a given vehicle may be disabled, altered, or removed for the purpose of obtaining any competitive advantage.

[raffaelli]

We spoke to Topeka today regarding this passage of the rules. John confimed that the window and lift can be removed from the passenger door, that is all that can be removed. The 'gutting' of the door refers to the rest of the tin.

[Andy Bettencourt]

ONLY if you use NASCAR bars. The removal of the window is NOT permitted on the passenger side unless your cage extends into that area. I can't see how John or Jeremy could have understood your question.

The rule you question in the last post is to say that 'if it doesn't say you CAN, then you CAN'T'. It says you CAN remove that window IF you excesize your option to use NASCAR bars on the passenger side.

Rule:

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Anyone else read this rule any different?</span>

[raffaelli]

We were fairly descriptive. I don&#39;t think there was a misunderstanding. We did say no bars, passenger door. We will call again to double check.

[Xian]

Anyone else read this rule any different?</span>


[/b]

I&#39;m interpreting it the same as you Andy...

I can understand how a quick "glance" at the rule might lead a person to think that&#39;d it be allowable but, per my reading, it isn&#39;t.


"The door window glass, window operating mechanism, and inside door latch/lock operating mechanism may be removed and the inner door structural panel may be modified, but not removed. The stock side impact beam, if equipped, and the outside door latch/lock operating mechanism shall not be removed or modified."[/b]

Ok, the portion above gives the guidelines for what is and is not allowable. The next line is just as or even more important.


"This gutting of the door shall only be made if roll cage incorporates NASCAR-style side protection extending into the door."[/b] (bold added by me)

The "this" being referred to is the entire previous section. i.e. if you don&#39;t have NASCAR bars, you can&#39;t gut the door. Really, it seems pretty simple and self explanatory to me. :shrug:

Christian

[Knestis]

We were fairly descriptive. I don&#39;t think there was a misunderstanding. We did say no bars, passenger door. We will call again to double check.
[/b]

Eh - what&#39;s one completely new and different IT rule interpretation among friends? :)

I hope this doesn&#39;t get silly.

K

[raffaelli]

Last night I sent John an email describing the question. I followed with a phone conversation. The interpretation of what is written that the glass and lift can come out; that the paragraph is poorly written. (I agree with him on both accounts).

Also from the conversation I understand this passage is undergoing a revision to more clearly word the intention...which is to keep the glass and lift in the door unless there is a NASCAR bar in the way.



As I mentioned, I will keep the glass and lift in the door, cover it up with some 060.



Thanks for helping me through this question.



I am looking forward to buttoning this car up and get some laps under my belt with it.

[raffaelli]

Woohoo..picked up a complete stock engine for very very dirt cheap. At some point it will be shipped over to Mr Blaney for some work. :026:

[ewaugh]

Do you still have interior parts or did you toss &#39;em?

[raffaelli]

Some of them I sold, some of them I broke in my new saws all with, some of them were used as paint ball target practice.



Sorry, I don&#39;t have any interior parts left other than the two front seats. We were planning on making a car race video game cockpit with one of them.

[ewaugh]

What kind of shape is the other one in? We have one decent one...

[raffaelli]

ummmmm.....been outside since April......waiting for the saws-all.



Otherwise it is in good shape. I can send you some photos of it. If you cover the shipping you can have it.

[raffaelli]

I have uploaded some newer photos. I should have the interior paint this week.

[almracing]

Raff...

I saw your CRX stuff for sale. You may want to hang on to the spare tire. It is an easy way to add weight to the rear of the car... and to make min. weight.

[raffaelli]

Thanks for the input. I have kept a few items for the rear, just in case I needed weight. I am sure that my belly will keep the car over!

I kept the tire and jack...just in case.

[Tom Blaney]

The spare stock tire and all of it&#39;s associated tools are a valuable and legal weight gain, and put it right where it is needed. Your looking at upwards of 50lbs, which in conjunction to a few too many beers will eliminate the need to adding the recient weight penalty.

When you do re-install the tire, make sure you use strong new bolts with washers or plates to secure the tire, it would be a bummer to be wacked in the back of the head by your spare.

[spnkzss]

You also want to keep the stock spare tire because when you have an "incident" it is a lot easier to mount that on and get the car on the trailer then the full racing tire that sometimes won&#39;t spin. A small spare should be a mandatory "tool" :) Come in handy quite a few times, luckily it wasn&#39;t for me :)

[raffaelli]

I have some of the unibody painted on the front, the bumper bar, radiator, headlights are back on. I was going to go nuts and pull apart the engine compartment to paint it. But I thought time would be better spent getting it on the track. I can paint the engine compartment when there is a foot of snow outside. So I just painted what I could have direct access to while things are apart.

I started taking a wheel to the interior to remove the final traces of the sound insulation. Hoping to paint the interior this weekend.

[tom91ita]

i guess i never thought about the jack & tools, etc. staying.

that is allowed?

i can maybe wedge the jack into place but it is not really that securely fastened. i have seen some add bolting to hold the tire and as near as i can tell, i don&#39;t see anything in the rules for allowing that.

i did add some wire to the bolt for the spare just because of concerns from the grid workers that wanted me to remove the tire. only after seeing the wire did they realize that it was intentional.

but even the wire is likely making me a cheater.

[Xian]

i have seen some add bolting to hold the tire and as near as i can tell, i don&#39;t see anything in the rules for allowing that.
[/b]
I used two 1/2" bolts with large washers to mount the spare tire. Although the rules don&#39;t explicitly allow for this type of mounting for the spare, it is in keping with the allowances for mounting ballast. I wouldn&#39;t be at all comfortable with a 20-30# spare behind me with only the stock attachment point and I doubt that my mounting would raise any eyebrows in the tech shed :shrug:

Christian

[R2 Racing]

I used two 1/2" bolts with large washers to mount the spare tire. Although the rules don&#39;t explicitly allow for this type of mounting for the spare, it is in keping with the allowances for mounting ballast.[/b]
Does anyone else see a problem with that in terms of rules? If it is mounted "in keeping with the allowances for mounting ballast", shouldn&#39;t it be mounted in the only legal place in the car to actually mount that ballast?

I&#39;m not saying that I disagree with people doing this (I mean, it is safer), but that&#39;s a bad arguement that people could easily flag you on.....and we all know how things like that have been taking on a life of their own around here.

Signed,
Kevin, who re-did all of his oil cooler lines and moved his remote oil filter just so he could stick the stupid washer bottle back in. :rolleyes:

[iagreen]

Quit trying to cause problems Kevin! Hardware is open! Like all those extra 1/2" grade 8 bolts in my frame rails and connecting my cage to the whitebody! :D

[raffaelli]

Can anyone point in the right direction to learn about painting the exterior of the car? Wanna do it myself.

[JLawton]

Can anyone point in the right direction to learn about painting the exterior of the car? Wanna do it myself.
[/b]


I think Dave Gran&#39;s book talks about it............You DO have a copy of Dave&#39;s book, don&#39;t you???!!!!

[raffaelli]

Doh...!!!







Yes, I have it, should have checked there first!

[Tom Blaney]

Unless you have the right equipment and very tolerant neighbors, I&#39;d seriously rething painting yourself. I did it for many years (years ago) when paint was cheap and nobody cared about health issues.

Get in touch with a local Maiko or some other cheap fast paint shop (or make a side deal with one of the grunts that works at the local body shop). If you do most of the prep work and take all of the trim off the car, the shop might cut you a break since all they have to do is wipe it down with prep-sol, mask it and final touch sand it and spray it. They will give you a bit of a break, plus you won&#39;t have to worry about orange peel or fisheye or runs etc. And if you have some spare doors and fenders (count on fenders) they can spray them at the same time.

Compare that to you buying primer, thinner, paint, etc etc etc, and all of the other crap that goes along with it the $250 bucks for a basic Maiko is a cheap alternative.

[almracing]

I&#39;ll second the Maaco selection. I don&#39;t have one here in the boonies, but back in the real world, Maaco could paint the entire car for just the cost of paint at a body shop. They seem to make their money doing the prep work... bondo, etc.

They also paint most of the undercarriage in overspray. :P

[raffaelli]

I have been kind of on the fence about this. I have been wanting to do it myself but the time and cost seem to not balance well against having a cheapo job done elsewhere. I will mark this as money well spent and spend the time on something else. Thanks for you help!

[raffaelli]

Interior Paint:

Flat or Gloss: I bought a can of both, I like the way the gloss looks but I think that it might be too reflective.

The interior will be grey the exterior will be blue. Where should I stop the interior color? At the spot weld seam or along the outer edge where rteh exterior surface turns toward the interior. It seems logical to me that the color shold change at the spot weld seam but it will be easier (read as cheaper) to paint the exterior without having to be crazy masking the door jams. You think it will look goofy?

[R2 Racing]

It&#39;s a race car, not a show car. Do whatever is cheaper and easier. :023:

[raffaelli]

I taped off the car as if the exterior paint were going to extend to the spot weld seam. As I sprayed the inside of the car last night, I thought...wow, what a paint in the arse it will be to paint these door jams the exterior color. Tonight, when I go back to touch up the car, I will extend the paint to the outside...like you said, easier and cheaper.

Getting the interior painted feels like the 300lb Gorilla has left the room. :026:

[raffaelli]

I am considering a rear view mirror. Are there advantages to either the Wink or the convex mirror?

[R2 Racing]

Personal preference, really. I use to have a 4 or 5 panel wink mirror but was constantly busting my head on the damn thing when inside the car working on something. Then I tried a convex mirror and it took a little more time to get use to and didn&#39;t mount as securely (eventually fell off in the middle of a race). Now I just use a stock rearview mirror pointed towards the back and passenger side and a stock drivers side mirror.

[raffaelli]

I think I like the convex mirror.









We put the dash back in last night and connected all the harnesses. :happy204:



I have to make a few brakets for the center console and the end of the dash. All of that needed to be removed to be able fit around the horizontal bar. Fortunatley, I think I can just modify the OEM bracket with relocating some weld on nuts.



I started to cut out the sun roof panel. I was using my cutoff wheel to do it. I quickly learned that the cut off wheel is not the best tool for that. I contacted the local metal supplier to see if they would cut it. They wanted $100 plus material. Instead I bought an electric metal shear from Northern Tool for $50. Blew threw the panel like butter with a nice edge. A few minutes on the wire wheel and it is ready for 1,000,000 rivets. :blink:

[awd92talontsi]

Interior Paint:

Flat or Gloss: I bought a can of both, I like the way the gloss looks but I think that it might be too reflective.

The interior will be grey the exterior will be blue. Where should I stop the interior color? At the spot weld seam or along the outer edge where rteh exterior surface turns toward the interior. It seems logical to me that the color shold change at the spot weld seam but it will be easier (read as cheaper) to paint the exterior without having to be crazy masking the door jams. You think it will look goofy?


[/b]


Our CRX has a flat-ish black interior and it is hard to clean and make look presentable for tech. We are going to revamp the car this winter and i am going to go with gloss black so it just takes a quick wipe down.

bryan

[raffaelli]

I ended up using a gloss paint on the interior - looks nice. It took a while (couple days) to harden.

So tell me why I should not use spray cans on the outside of the car? I painted a small portion of the exterior with a can last night to test out what colors I like. I didnt prep the car at all, just sprayed it. It seems like it will be okay to do with some care. Am I missing something?

[Tom Blaney]

Sure for a gagillion dollars you can buy all the cans of paint you need and when your done you will have a 20&#39; paint job (from 19&#39; it will still look exactly like what you did) In spite of some of the crap that is running around the track, there is something to be said for a little pride in the craft.

Your still going to have to sand and prep and trim and mask, and it will take a whole lot more cans than you think to do a couple coats.

Beyond that there is the whole fade in the weather (think wind/rain/sun/rock chips) thing. I did some patch work on my trailer once with quality spray can. After a few weeks the luster was gone and the color faded faster than a backmarker RX7.....

[raffaelli]

the color faded faster than a backmarker RX7.....

[/b]






LOL.....paint shop it is.





I updated the photos in my signature.

[lateapex911]

. After a few weeks the luster was gone and the color faded faster than a backmarker RX7.....

[/b]

You&#39;ve never be accused of not being an elitist, Tom.....

[Tom Blaney]

Just as I expected I knew one of you guys would take it to heart. Jeeze lighten up!!! Pretty soon one of you guys will be requesting the Comp Board make a rule not allowing anybody to use the "B word" (as in backmarker)

[lateapex911]

If you knew that people would take it to heart, yet you didn&#39;t mean it Tom, then why&#39;d you type it???? If you were kidding, I am sure you would have put some kind of hint in there, like a smiley or whatever......right?

[Tom Blaney]

NOPE

[lateapex911]

Well, then expect people to read what you write and draw logical conclusions.

[raffaelli]

I will be at Limerock Saturday. Hopefully someone will be kind enough to let me see under there dash for some fabrication ideas. Any volunteers? :)

[ITC Racer]

Perhaps this is too late, but I like a lighter color (my car&#39;s interior/engine compartment is white-flat, I believe) which makes it easier to clean and see any leaks, etc.

[lateapex911]

I painted my backmarker cars interior with silver. Not too bright, not too dark, and glossy so it is a breeze to clean.....

[Tom Blaney]

What an opening!!! But I won&#39;t

[raffaelli]

We have to keep you guys separated?

LOL

[raffaelli]

I poked around a bunch of car this past weekend at Limerock. Thank you to those that took a few minutes out of their day to educate me.


What is recommended for the thermostat? Use OEM, change temp, remove?

[Tom Blaney]

Use any good quality (parts house or OEM), and if possible try and get a 165 or 180 degree. Make sure your bleed the system of air before you start it, and then once again after the first warm/cool down session (in the garage or on the track)

[raffaelli]

Thank you Tom. I will start with the 165. This is tonights project! Looking to knock some of the rust off with a few laps around the block this weekend. Been a long time since the car has run.

[bonespec]

Autozone used to carry a 170 degree Tstat.

Also note, unless tuned out via the ECU, your in cold start loop until 165-170 F, 180 is perfect H2O temp.

Start getting around 195 and the ECU starts pulling timing.

[raffaelli]

Thanks for the input. I didnt get to work on the car yesterday. I will get to it tonight.





Do 225 wide tires fit on this car?

[Xian]

Do 225 wide tires fit on this car?
[/b]
Mine do. 14x7&#39;s with 225 Hoosiers. You&#39;ll need to thoroughly roll both the front and rear fender lips in order for them to fit. Offset will also be very important as clearance is tiiiiight on the rears.

Christian

[raffaelli]

Thanks. Do you know what the offset range should be?

[Xian]

I got my TD&#39;s from Tom @ OPM... Link (http://www.opmautosports.com/)

They&#39;re 14x7&#39;s with 38mm offset that weight 11.5lbs. I run a very thin (2 or 3mm??) spacer in the rear to keep the tires off the trailing arm. OPM typically has the wheels and spacers (if needed) in stock.

Christian

[jlucas]

Here&#39;s a general question for all you CRX guys. Is it getting hard to get parts at all?

[Gregg]

I&#39;ve never had an issue sourcing anything I&#39;ve needed.

[spnkzss]

I&#39;ve never had an issue sourcing anything I&#39;ve needed.
[/b]

And he would know....

I&#39;m sorry Gregg, but you&#39;ve been dormant for too long. You come back and all the pent up wise craking releases in a flood. :)

[Tom Blaney]

Based on Gregg&#39;s past performances, he has to buy things in "BULK" so product availabilty issues might not reflect what he seems to do.... :birra:

[Xian]

I&#39;ve never had an issue sourcing anything I&#39;ve needed.
[/b]
Same here.

[Gregg]

And he would know....

I&#39;m sorry Gregg, but you&#39;ve been dormant for too long. You come back and all the pent up wise craking releases in a flood. :)[/b]


Based on Gregg&#39;s past performances, he has to buy things in "BULK" so product availabilty issues might not reflect what he seems to do.... :birra:[/b]

Yup...motors, hardened hubs, suspension pieces, core supports, front crossmembers, radius rods, fenders, hoods, tailights, headlights, wildly illegal camshafts (uhhh....kidding with that one...REALLY! :018: ), I&#39;ve never had a problem getting what I needed very quickly.

BTW--I love you guys. :023:

[raffaelli]

Thanks for the input.

I have not had a problem locating parts. Some of the Honda forums are full of parts. Been able to find some body parts in the junk yards. I hit the dealer for the small things.





I started the car! It has been sitting dormant for 15 months! What a huge relief. Well, at second thought...I would have preferred it didn’t work so I can send it off to Blaney&#39;s shop. I wasn&#39;t so lucky this time.

I turned on the car and with about 30 seconds of cranking it turned over. After a few minutes I smelled gas. I did not work on the gas lines or tank at all. But I had my gorilla hands in there changing the T stat and heater core hoses and such. I turned off the car and found that the drivers side of the engine compartment was wet with gas and there was a wet spot in the floor under the engine about 18" in diameter. I checked all the hoses, thinking maybe I dislodged the return line. I could not find the leak. I cleaned up the engine and soaked up the floor with kitty litter and went to bed.

Next night I tried it again. I could not reproduce the problem. No leaks at all. Raced the engine, idled it, shut it off and on trying to get some fuel to leak. Nothing. The clamps and hoses seem fine. Any ideas?

[Tom Blaney]

check the end of the fuel rail where the end cap is, also check the rubber lines by bending them with the key on but motor not running.

Don&#39;t run until you find something that kind of problem doesn&#39;t fix itself (unless you consider a melted pile of junk fixed alright). Rubber lines can crack from age or get nicked during install, but on driver side I&#39;d suspect fuel rail

[raffaelli]

Thanks. I will poke around again tonight.

[bonespec]

check the return line at the fuel pressure regulator.......

[raffaelli]

Can someone post some photos or direct me to some of the connection of your harness to the cage and floor?

[raffaelli]

I have updated the photos.

[raffaelli]

I am going to do a couple of track days this fall at LRP to shake down the car a bit. In the spring I will hit the school and start racing. :026:

I will be a the runoffs on Saturday. (and heading back there on Sunday for the walkathon event).

I am interested in purchasing a set used tires that have enough life in them to get me through two track days. Looking for 225, 15&#39;s. I will chuck them after the track events then purchase new sets to start next season. Anybody have some tires to sell? I can wait till after the event to receive the tires, I am not under a tight time frame at the moment.

[JLawton]

Check with Smarty on Saturday. He&#39;s always got tires that the fast guys are throwing away.

[raffaelli]

Thanks! Will do!

[raffaelli]

Man I think I am falling in love with the UPS guy. He brings me packages all the time these days! The guy behind the counter at Autozone is up on my list also!

[tom91ita]

yea, if you are at the runoffs, go scrounging by the tire trailer. you should be able to snag something for a couple of track days.

[raffaelli]

I could not get there early as my son had a JV football game. A good one, they won with a 20 yard field goal with 5 seconds left. I arrived just after the ITA group. I stopped by the Hoosier trailer...sign up "No used tires".

Anyone have any for a 15x7 rim?



Painting the car this weekend in the front yard pending some clear weather (and UPS showing with the paint!)

</span>

[raffaelli]

Well, the car is painted. I am going to do a bit of sanding and cost it again, then hit it with clear.



I am going to sit tight in a rim purchase till the spring. I have 14x6 on the car now. Anyone have some 14" 195-205 tires for sale for Novembers track days?

If I buy new tires now, use them in November, what do I need to do to them to keep fresh till the spring?

[raffaelli]

I am registered for a NASA track day at LRP for 11/8! :026:

[Andy Bettencourt]

Updated Pics!!!!

[Tom Blaney]

Don&#39;t try for any track records the first time out....

After the first session while your telling everybody how great it was, go around and check as many nuts and bolt as you can for tightness.

Then go have some fun. That is what it is suppose to be about.

[Andy Bettencourt]

Make sure you also understand the noise limitations of a NASA event at Lime Rock. I wouldn&#39;t be surprised if it was 89dB...and that will require some additional thinking on exhaust.

[raffaelli]

The exhaust is still OE except for the cat so I don’t think that I should have an issue with the noise level.

I will get some pictures up this weekend.

All that I need to do now is make a few adjustments on the harness, change the transmission fluid and mount rubber. :026:

[raffaelli]

Mothe$%)$# Fu%$)@#) Son of a B@)#(^@#

:mad1:

My oil burner popped last night. I have a new one being delivered today. I will install it tomorrow. It has to be done before I leave for the track or I am in the dog house. Figures.

[raffaelli]

So the oil burner went in...yes, it sucked doing it.



LRP was an absolute blast. I had more fun in the CRX on that track then I do with my E46M3. I will put up some photos and thoughts a bit later.

Thank you for everyone who helped guide me in this. :eclipsee_steering:

[raffaelli]

I have updated the build photos. I will put some photos and video of track day up a bit later.


Make sure you also understand the noise limitations of a NASA event at Lime Rock. I wouldn&#39;t be surprised if it was 89dB...and that will require some additional thinking on exhaust.

[/b]



There were a few people warned about the 89 limit. I believe there was one car sent home for noise.

[raffaelli]

I updated some more photos and videos.



So we ended up at the track around 6:30am. The gate was not open yet.



I rented Uhaul trailer since I have not purchased one yet. The trailer is a piece of crap. The ramps are too steep. Plus there is an inner rail guard to keep people from driving off inside the trailer. This got caught on a bunch of stuff under the car. It was a pain getting the car on and off. I had to use the hill to flatten out the ramps. Plus with the frost on everything, the Kuhmos did not want to back up the hill. This was a chore at 6:30am at 35 degrees that I just did not want. Needless to say, the next time the car is moved it will be on a proper trailer.



I kind of cruised around in the first session. I was trying to figure braking and shifting spots and well as feel out the car – hoping I tightened everything down. I left the stop watch home. The track did have frost on the grass. A few puddles inside the left hander were iced over. For some reason I was in a run group with some pretty high horsepower cars (GT3, Cobra, C6). I did not see them often though.



The second run I was much more confident in the car. I cleaned up the shifting spots, using 3rd gear for most of the track, 4th on the three straights. I was much cleaner and felt stronger in the car.



The third run was an experience. I was pushing the car harder, trying to break later, turn smoother, shift cleaner. The car was a little skittish at the higher speeds. I am sure this was due to my lousy alignment job. As I built nerve on the downhill, I was faster into the Big Bend breaking zone, bringing my brake point from 1 to 3. I tried to clean up my line into Big Bend so I can reduce the breaking point. I found that keeping the outside tires on the outside edge of the concrete kept me moving and quicker to the short chute to the left hander. However, about half way through the session, turning into the left hander, my steering wheel fell into my lap! Holy crap! I was holding it up incase it was going to get bound. I stuck my arm up out the window and slowed down. I have the OE assembly. I did take it down to mess with the dashboard. I could not figure out what was going on since I thought I was looking at the bolts in place. I make it around the track and into the paddock. As soon as I turned the car off, I saw it…………the tilt wheel lever………it had come loose and dropped the wheel. Geez.



The fourth run was by far my best run. I felt good in the car, getting more speed in the down hill, memorized my shift points, tried to shorten the break points and turn smoother. In the down hill I was in third full throttle or fourth with partial throttle. I was able to break down to 2 under the bridge. I felt good about the turns before no name all day. I am surprised at how well the track holds onto the car in the uphill, hit the little kink in the curb on west bend. I think my line is OK for now. I just need to get some more confidence in the car. I few times I felt the car slide around a bit. Mostly they were in the left hander and into big bend. I know I can be faster everywhere, but I think the two spots for me to work on the most is the downhill and through big bend. Some more suspension and horsepower could not hurt also… Although I was not in the track with similar cars, I was never in anybody’s way (except that crazy fast M Coupe) I was able to pull people on the turns. I felt good about that even if we were not racing.



The drive train and engine is OE, no work on them. Exhaust and air are OE. OE sways. I have no idea how old the plugs, wires, etc are. The suspension is AGX. I have no idea how old they are or what the springs are. They look like crap and I am sure the car is way too soft, felt it anyway. With the 205 Kuhmos, in roughly 40 degree weather all day, we went from 30 psi all around to 26 front and 22 rear. The car felt better at those settings. The PSI came off at about 4 psi higher, 5 in the front left.



I think I need to adjust my belt a bit better. I think the shoulders were too tight and the lap too loose. I had a couple sore spots on my left thigh that I think I could have prevented with a tighter lap. After a few laps I noticed I was slouched down. Shoulders too tight?



I don’t think I am crazy about the Wink mirror.



My wife and kids were trackside. We let them play hookey from school. They worked on the car and wanted very much to be there. I can see that this is going to be a great family time at the track, regardless of how well we perform.









I remember talking to someone in IT with a rabbit a few years ago. It was one of my first trips to Limerock to start peeking my interest. He said to me "I regret I didnt start this 20 years ago". I can see why. I have driven my street 2003 E46 M3 around LRP and Pocono. Although that is a great car, this CRX is lots of fun.



Man, I can’t wait till the spring. :eclipsee_steering: :happy204:

[quike]

This is my first time reading this thread. I live in Fishkill, NY . Let me know if u need help getting to Lime Rock next time. 845-592-0184 Eric

[raffaelli]

Your right down the road!



I will definitely look you up! Thanks!

[JLawton]

As Andy said in the other thread, put the NHIS school at the top of your list. If you have some driving experience and keep your head out of your a$$, you might get signed off.

Has all the hard work made it worth it??? :D


There is a secret to getting through Big Bend in a low horse power car that they don&#39;t tell you at any of the schools. If you use the traditional line that they do in the rear wheel drive, high HP cars, you&#39;ll be getting passed there all day long!! ;)

Of course, I&#39;m probably not the one to tell anyone how to drive LRP!!

[Tom Blaney]

If you have some options for Driver School, I would suggest that you look to Summit Point, the CRX likes that type of track a lot better than NHIS. I have found that NH requires a lot more torque off the corners thatn the CRX has, and tracks like Summit, The Glen, Road Atlanta, and even Pocono are more friendly, since they have fast sweepers and more momentum corners.

[lateapex911]

I&#39;d suggest that the track isn&#39;t the be all and end all when choosing a school. After all it&#39;s not about winning, it&#39;s about learnig the system and getting comfortable with the art of driving off line and still going fast, the art of passing and being passed, and the general environment that is a race.

I&#39;d suggest going to the school that gives you solid track time and has a good instructor base in the types of cars you&#39;ll be racing (IT). And, go to a school that your crew can be at for the entire event, because having a crew can be vital.

[gran racing]

So what you doing with that video camera outside the car?

Are you planning on doing any more HPDEs next year at LRP? If you go to one of the SCDA events, bring the family along and have them take a ride with one of the instructors. My wife has rode with me a couple of times and I was absolutely shocked at how much she enjoyed it.


Where will you be racing the most? If you plan on racing at NHIS a few times a year and maybe only go to Summit once a year, I personally say do the NHIS school. You&#39;ll learn a ton about the track from the schools and might as well apply that to a track you&#39;ll be racing on more often. If you don&#39;t plan on doing NHIS, Summit it is!

Speaking of which....pencil the SCCA Summit Point Labor Day double race weekend down on your calendar. That is such an awesome event - I need to go back there next year for it and drag a few of you guys with me. Oh gesh. Maybe you should do the Summit school then. :lol:

[raffaelli]

As Andy said in the other thread, put the NHIS school at the top of your list. If you have some driving experience and keep your head out of your a$$, you might get signed off.

Has all the hard work made it worth it??? :D


There is a secret to getting through Big Bend in a low horse power car that they don&#39;t tell you at any of the schools. If you use the traditional line that they do in the rear wheel drive, high HP cars, you&#39;ll be getting passed there all day long!! ;)

Of course, I&#39;m probably not the one to tell anyone how to drive LRP!! [/b]



Yes, the hard work is worth it!



With some more seat time I will figure out better lines around the track. I have only driven that track in my E46 M3 so I quickly realized that the lines I used will not work in that CRX. I am looking forward to following some ITA cars around to see whats what.




If you have some options for Driver School, I would suggest that you look to Summit Point, the CRX likes that type of track a lot better than NHIS. I have found that NH requires a lot more torque off the corners thatn the CRX has, and tracks like Summit, The Glen, Road Atlanta, and even Pocono are more friendly, since they have fast sweepers and more momentum corners.
[/b]



I am completely open to any track for any school. I want to get it done as early as possible.




I&#39;d suggest that the track isn&#39;t the be all and end all when choosing a school. After all it&#39;s not about winning, it&#39;s about learnig the system and getting comfortable with the art of driving off line and still going fast, the art of passing and being passed, and the general environment that is a race.

I&#39;d suggest going to the school that gives you solid track time and has a good instructor base in the types of cars you&#39;ll be racing (IT). And, go to a school that your crew can be at for the entire event, because having a crew can be vital.
[/b]





I have a few gear heads (which I am not) that will be able to help me through school. They will also do through a school later in the seaon. We intend to run an enduro together laster in the season if we can.




So what you doing with that video camera outside the car?

Are you planning on doing any more HPDEs next year at LRP? If you go to one of the SCDA events, bring the family along and have them take a ride with one of the instructors. My wife has rode with me a couple of times and I was absolutely shocked at how much she enjoyed it.


Where will you be racing the most? If you plan on racing at NHIS a few times a year and maybe only go to Summit once a year, I personally say do the NHIS school. You&#39;ll learn a ton about the track from the schools and might as well apply that to a track you&#39;ll be racing on more often. If you don&#39;t plan on doing NHIS, Summit it is!

Speaking of which....pencil the SCCA Summit Point Labor Day double race weekend down on your calendar. That is such an awesome event - I need to go back there next year for it and drag a few of you guys with me. Oh gesh. Maybe you should do the Summit school then. :lol: [/b]



It is now killing me that I did not have a camera in the car. I made two lists when I was prepping the car. One list was the performance improvements. The other was saftey and reliability improvements. I decided that I would not tackle the performance list until the saftey list was fully resolved. Unfortunatley, the camera mount is on the performance list. It will be under the Christmas tree though.



I did not realize that my wife could get a ride with an instructor. She would love that. She is going to run some HPDE&#39;s this summer. She has it in her blood a bit - she used to race endurance bikes in the desert in southern California. I intend to get as much track time this summer as I can. Until I am cleared to race, I will goto HDPE&#39;s, mainly at LRP since it is nearly in my backyard.



I think I will be at LRP the most. Depending on scheduling, I would also like to try NH an WG this summer. I did not consider Summit, but I will pencil it in.

[quike]

Your right down the road!



I will definitely look you up! Thanks!
[/b]


Right down the road is right. I&#39;m at rt. 376 / rt. 82 junction. Also, I&#39;m sure Tom Blaney has been helpful as he is familiar with the car and full of information. I believe he is pretty local to say. Anthony Serra at mecchanic shop north is very very good at at car preperation and suspension set up. His set up may be too agressive for the learning curve imo. though but he can surely help you out.

[raffaelli]

I am just off 55 at 82/55.

Tom has been helping me with advice. His input has been very valuable to me. It is time to start repaying him by adding his parts to the car.

Is there someone local I can go see to obtain a log book this winter?

[raffaelli]

So now that I have a trailer. I have been thinking of some ways to build some cabinets on it. It has a tire rack. I was thinking of filling under the tire rack in for storeage etc. Any ideas?

[Tom Blaney]

I don&#39;t have any good pictures, but what I suggest is that you do a couple of things. First close the opening between the rails on the bed. This will keep all of the road slop from coming up under the trailer and onto the underside of the car. I used thin diamond plate and spot welded it to the rails. Close the front of the trailer by using some sheet aluminum (from the dirt track shops) and make a three sided box from the tire rack frame. Now you have a realitivly dry area where you can put water tight boxes that contain your spares and things like the jack, jack stands, etc. Your good tools should stay with your tow vehicle since at some track things get legs.

This is the closest I could come to a closed trailer without all the hastle of trailer boxes. The good quality plastic containers lock well, can be stacked and once in a while you can empty all the junk out give them a quick hose down and your ready to go again.

[quike]

Having a trailer is like gaining new freedom. I actually bolted an aluminum storage box from a pick up truck on my trailer&#39;s tire rack<FREE>. It seals water tight, has locks, and is not permanent just incase I want to actually use the tire rack for tires! I leave my jack, jack stands, empty fuel jugs, tools, spare parts, etc.... in it all year round.

[raffaelli]

Thanks guy. As soon as I can get to the trailer (snowed in) I am going to start with placing the car on it and adjusted the strap locations. I am not so fond of the current locations. They seem to be too far away at the corners of the platforms. I think I&#39;d like to enclose the area under the tire rack with an aluminum lockable made in place cabinet with some shelves inside.

Has anyone seen a platform at the top of the tire rack used for viewing? A buddy suggested it. Thought it was a bit much.

[raffaelli]

Hey Fellas, Can you give me some direction on obtaining a log book? I have reached out to a few people in Region 23 (where I am) to get some advice. I suppose due to the holidays and off season, my request is not at the top of the list. I would like to get the log book accuired as soon as I can. Am I limited to NYR? Can you put me in contact with someone who can issue log books?





Merry Christmas and have a safe a prosperous New Year!

[lateapex911]

I would repost this in the NE section. I would mention that I&#39;d be willing to tow a bit, and would bring a 6 pack of choice, or something similar.

barring that, NER has a number of preseason tech sessions for annuals and new log books, to ease congestion at the first events.

[tom91ita]

the issuing tech inspector should have the log book. things that you might want to have with you are the photos of your car and a 3/16" drill bit in a cordless drill in case they want any other inspection/thickness holes.

i typically try to do the pre-race annual inspections for the following reasons:

more relaxed atmosphere and you can ask the inspectors for advice on things that can be done different ways for window nets, belts, etc.

they appreciate not having to do at the track

if there was anything i overlooked, there was time to correct. i&#39;d rather tow 50 miles each way for the tech inspection than 300 miles one way for a race and not be able to....

and cookies never hurt at a tech event either when there are several cars being done, etc.

this last year is the first in three that i did not do a pre-race annual due to timing but i was very nervous when bringing the car to tech 3 years ago since the car had not been teched since 1998 and there were several updates i had to get done and i was afraid i had over-looked or ignored something.

good luck. and after tech, don&#39;t forget to put the ARRC and the IT Festival at Mid-Ohio on your schedule.

[raffaelli]

Thanks guys. I picked up a trailer a few weeks ago so I am now mobile. I would certainly like to get the instpection done with well in advance of any track event

[brownaimer]

Strongly recommend getting the car "teched" prior to first race. Some inspectors get real cranky at the track and they can find something wrong, if they want to and delay you more. Get in contact with an SCCA person - I am in MidDiv - and we have a designated contact person at each track and they can put you in touch with a licensed tech person. Good luck. I have a 91 CRX Si built by Tom Fowler (Atlanta) that I am still getting to know. Just haven&#39;t had time to race as much as I expected. The car is faster than the driver at this point.

[raffaelli]

Fuel Sample Port for reference

http://www.improvedtouring.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23455

[raffaelli]

The last two things I need to do to the car are stickers and kill switch connections. I will wrap them both up this week. I should have an inspection ready car by the end of the weekend!:happy204:

[raffaelli]

I have a few questions about the kill switch

http://www.improvedtouring.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20130&page=3

[raffaelli]

The car passed the inspection this past weekend! Cage stamped 2-2337!


Thank you Dick for taking the time out of your schdule to the inspection and put up with hours of questions. Very much appreciated!

I have updated the photos.
http://www.putfile.com/album/83179 (http://www.putfile.com/album/83179)

[dickita15]

Chris, you did I nice job on building the car. You showed very good judgment with regard to where to put your priorities. It looks like a safe solid platform to start your wheel to wheel career. Now comes the fun of developing the driver and the car. Welcome to the Dream. :happy204:

[Andy Bettencourt]

VERY nice! Can't wait to race against you!

[raffaelli]

Thanks guys. Don't run me over when you lap me!:eclipsee_steering:

[lateapex911]

Sigh...if only it were that easy for me and my RX-7!

[raffaelli]

Ahh..I have seen your car...you will be on the list of people lapping me...:eek:

[JLawton]

Ahh..I have seen your car...you will be on the list of people lapping me...:eek:




Only if he doesn't catch on fire!! :p


Come hunt us down during the weekend.

[raffaelli]

I will, thanks for the offer!

[raffaelli]

I am going to order a suit in the AM.
This is the one I am thinking of:

http://www.racerwholesale.com/product_info.php?cPath=37_85&products_id=88

Any reason I shouldn't?

[Tom Blaney]

Although that is an ok suit, you might want to consider contacting Driving Impressions in Dover NJ. Bob Zecca is a good guy, and is putting time and money into more than one attempt at the northeast IT racing series. I am sure his prices are as good, and the quality of his suits are better.

Two birds with one stone, better product, and your directly supporting a northeast series sponsor.

[lateapex911]

I'm a firm believer in the try it on tactic for suits, gloves, boots and helmets...Tom gives good advice here.

[raffaelli]

So my transponder arrived yesterday. I was looking for a good place to mount it. I am thinking of to the side of the chassis rail near the passenger side engine mount in the engine compartment. Where do you have yours?

[lateapex911]

Same place, hardwired to the kill switch. No reason to have it on a separate switch, it draws zero power, and forgetting to turn it on would be awful. One less thing to remember.

[raffaelli]

THe transponder is in. It is against the engine side of the passenger side chassis rail. It is about 1/4" behind the rear lip of the lower cross member. There is not material directly under the foot print of the transponder. Sound OK?

[lateapex911]

Perfect. Same spot as mine. Amazingly, it would work even if there were plastic there, or so they claim. Your's is better than fine. Now memorize the number, and enter it into your cep phone so you can find it instantly!

[gran racing]

Or just write the number in your vehicle's log book.

[spnkzss]

Or just write the number in your vehicle's log book.

That's the only way to do it. That and leave the log book in the glove box. You'll never lose it then. LOL

[raffaelli]

It is written in my log book and on my helmet.


Tatoo is next...:eek:

[lateapex911]

That's the only way to do it. That and leave the log book in the glove box. You'll never lose it then. LOL
Not that it happens much, and jeez NOBODy would do it to MY car, LOL, but I always get nervous leaving the logbook IN the car, because why give a thief EVERYthing?

kinda like leaving the title in your street car.

[spnkzss]

Not that it happens much, and jeez NOBODy would do it to MY car, LOL, but I always get nervous leaving the logbook IN the car, because why give a thief EVERYthing?

kinda like leaving the title in your street car.

IF there was some kind of national registry of log books (like the DMV) then I would have to agree with you, but having a log book won't prove much if it is taken. At least not enough that I wouldn't already have that information elsewhere. That and I have a title for my racecar which would mean more than the log book anywho. :p

[dickita15]

Put the log book in your helmet bag. You will have it when you go to tech and the mice won’t eat it like happened to a couple of VW’s I know.

[arpenn]

raffaelli (http://www.qloy.com/index.php?q=aHR0cDovL3d3dy5pbXByb3ZlZHRvdXJpbmcuY2 9tL2ZvcnVtcy9tZW1iZXIucGhwP3U9ODg4OQ%3D%3D),
I was just looking at your pictures of your car, nice job by the way. My brother and I have a 90 Civic Si and we are doing some updates to it also. We have to add a fuel test port to our civic so I was looking at yours in the picture. Correct me if I am wrong, but if during a wreck if something came back and hit your fuel test port depressing it, wouldn't it spray fuel all over your hot engine causing a huge fire? Maybe that port works differently than I am thinking. It is convenent to get to but, I am not sure that is the safest installation. What if a person added a valve between the supply line and the test port?

Where did everyone else mount their test ports?

[raffaelli]

raffaelli (http://www.qloy.com/index.php?q=aHR0cDovL3d3dy5pbXByb3ZlZHRvdXJpbmcuY2 9tL2ZvcnVtcy9tZW1iZXIucGhwP3U9ODg4OQ%3D%3D),
I was just looking at your pictures of your car, nice job by the way. My brother and I have a 90 Civic Si and we are doing some updates to it also. We have to add a fuel test port to our civic so I was looking at yours in the picture. Correct me if I am wrong, but if during a wreck if something came back and hit your fuel test port depressing it, wouldn't it spray fuel all over your hot engine causing a huge fire? Maybe that port works differently than I am thinking. It is convenent to get to but, I am not sure that is the safest installation. What if a person added a valve between the supply line and the test port?

Where did everyone else mount their test ports?



Hi, thanks for the compliment.


I suppose that could happen - although I think that the value would need to be pressed against the fire wall, and have something pushing on the front of it. That would be quite a bit of damage to the car, probably includes moving the engine into the fire wall.
I have added a cap to the valve with a zip tie so that will limit the flow of fuel, if any.

[raffaelli]

I am going to buy a camera mount today.
Pegasus https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=648 (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=648)
Or
IO port http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CM&Category_Code=IOPP (http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CM&Category_Code=IOPP)
Any opinions?

[arpenn]

I think those are the same mount, but I could be wrong. The arms are adjustable which is what you are seeing in the picture at Pegasus. My brother and I have the I/O port camera mount in our civic. We haven't shot any video from it yet because we just got the car but the guy we bought the car from used it and his videos look good.

[lateapex911]

Do yourself a favor. Go out to the car with the vid camera. Climb in the back, turn the cam on, and zoom back to it's widest setting. Now, adjust your position to please. I like to get the windshield in completely, if poss., but most vid cameras won't have a wide angle setting that will accommodate.

In any case, see where you are when you like what you see in the viewfinder. Which mount will facilitate that position? The Pegasus mount is more expensive, but appears to have great range. The I/O mount is cheaper but looks like it has a smaller range of possible positions.

The I/O mount might be sturdier as well, because of that limited range, and produce better, more vibration free images.

[stevel]

I am going to buy a camera mount today.
Pegasus https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=648 (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=648)
Or
IO port http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CM&Category_Code=IOPP (http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CM&Category_Code=IOPP)
Any opinions?

Neither. Get this one:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/375297-REG/Bogen_Manfrotto_2910_Super_Clamp_with_3025.html

It's cheaper and has more range of motion.

And Jake made a great point about a wide angle. Pretty much every consumer camcorder I've used in car has a really narrow field of view. You can't mount it far enough back to get a large enough field of view, at least for my tastes. I HIGHLY recommend getting a screw-on wide angle lense attachment. I recommend a 0.5x wide angle, this will double your field of view and allow you to get the entire windshield in the picture, you can ALMOST see the side view mirrors in the camera. You need to find out what size filter thread you have and get a lense that size, or most include different adapter/step rings. Most camcorders are in the range of 27-40mm. The size lense you get won't matter as long as it has the step ring for you camcorder lense.

Something like this:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/480672-REG/Impact_DVSWA4537_DVS_WA45_37_37mm_45x_Wide.html

Wide angle makes the picture so much better.

s

[raffaelli]

So I decided on the IO Port mount. Will arrive today. I lined up my camera and I can get 98% of the windshield mounting directly over the horizontal bar with the .5 wide angle lens.

All I need to do is pack up and change the number on the car and I should be set for the school.
I made some flash cards from the GCR regarding pre-race, on track and post race procedures so it can become second nature.
Hopefully the rain holds off. I will be attending with my Kuhmos and street all-weathers.

[raffaelli]

So the school was great. A week later and I still feel like I can drive each one of the 150 something laps over again in my head. I met some great people. Aside from the track and all that, it was the people that made this event are great and fun as it was. good to finally put some faces to the screen names. Plus I think I found a good group of guys at my and my car's performance level that we will have lots of fun together on the track.


I don't have any contact damage to the car. I did notice that the front left axle has some issues. The axle nut lip is torn and the axle has a crack in the end from the keyway into the dimple in the centerline of the axle. I don't know what that happened but I have spares.:shrug:

Also the front end of the car does a lot of knocking, especially when I started to get tight to the tires in turn 3. I have all OE bushings, probalby most are original to the car. Time to change them. I amy be developing a problem with the transmission. At high RPM it clicks when I put it into gear. You will be able to pick it up on the video when I post it.

Looking forward to next time.:eclipsee_steering:

[raffaelli]

Am I eligible to participate in the Tuesday test days at LRP with my signed novice permit?

Is it on and off whenever you want or is it done in sessions? If it is on and off whenever you want it seems like a great $/lap ratio and a great way to get some seat time.

[dickita15]

Am I eligible to participate in the Tuesday test days at LRP with my signed novice permit?

Is it on and off whenever you want or is it done in sessions? If it is on and off whenever you want it seems like a great $/lap ratio and a great way to get some seat time.
yes your novice permit should work.

between 2 and 4 rotating sessions depending on turnout.

[JLawton]

You'll usually get 5 sessions or so. Not as good a value as NHMS though....

[lateapex911]

But, it's hours closer for you, and not Mickey Mouse like NHIS either, LOL (At least the "Classic" layout.

Which brings up an interesting point...see NE section thread...

[raffaelli]

I am going to install a shift light and new tach. I was thinking of putting the 3 5/8” tach within the OE gauge cluster with the shift light to the right, outside the gauge cluster bezel. Also, down the road, I plan on putting a fuel gauge and speedometer inside the gauge cluster. I am going to put the balance of gauges in the center console.

I notice that many replacement tachs are outside the bezel and some are the 5” size. Any particular reason?

[raffaelli]

Any reason not to use Summit brand gauges?

[raffaelli]

Hey! Check this out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elrAZOpXo08 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elrAZOpXo08) :happy204:


If you were near me in any of the sessions at the school and you want video of me passing you:eclipsee_steering: (or at least spinning out in front of you!:eek:), please drop me a note with your mailing address and I will send you a disc.

[JLawton]

Chris,

I just realized no one had responded to your question on the tach.

The bigger the better, the more in your line of site (without blocking your view. Duh) the better. Same with the shift light. It's amazing how distracted you get on the starts and fail to see the laser shift light burning your retina out.............

If you haven't forgotten to shift on a start and have half the field pass you as your rev limiter kicks in, you haven't raced enough!! ;)

[raffaelli]

Hi Jeff,

Thanks for getting back to me.

Are the RPM’s that important to see or it is just the shift light I need to see?

Watching the video of the sessions I was surprised at how many times I was against the rev limiter - FAR:blink: more than I thought I was – partly because I was not watching the tach and partly because I did not have enough umph when I shifted. I know I forced the limiter going uphill. There is a practice start that Greg made me look like I was literally parked - sure enough, I didn’t shift.:026:

[JLawton]

Hi Jeff,
Are the RPM’s that important to see or it is just the shift light I need to see?

Watching the video of the sessions I was surprised at how many times I was against the rev limiter - FAR:blink: more than I thought I was – partly because I was not watching the tach and partly because I did not have enough umph when I shifted. I know I forced the limiter going uphill. There is a practice start that Greg made me look like I was literally parked - sure enough, I didn’t shift.:026:

I think you answered your own question!! :)

I want to know how close I am to needing to shift and I want to know how close I am to hitting the rev limiter. It is important to me.......

[raffaelli]

Aight, looks like a 5" with lite it is.

[raffaelli]

So I am going to put the whole gauge thing on hold a bit.

I put in a AEM short intake last night. Looks cool.
Someone said the coating on the tube attracts trophy girls…we’ll see.:rolleyes:

I am considering building an exhaust, header back. Any tips?

http://www.improvedtouring.com/forums/showthread.php?p=267964#post267964 (http://www.improvedtouring.com/forums/showthread.php?p=267964#post267964)

[raffaelli]

So, I noticed that the battery has been going dead a lot faster than I thought it should.

It was charged about a week ago. Today when I went to take a spin around the block, it was dead. I put my jumper box on it and got just a bunch of clicking and some lovely white smoke from the alternator. Then I attached another car to jump it and as soon as I connected the batteries, the alternator let out a big puff beautiful smoke. I smell electrical burn. The alternator looks original to me.

Would a bad alternator drain the battery?

So I started to yank out the alternator. All was going well until it was time to pull out the lower pivot bolt. I have been working on that bolt for 5 innings of the Yankees/Ranger game. IT WILL NOT BUDGE. I have tried all I can think of. Unfortunately, I cannot just take the bracket off the block because the alternator blocks access to one of the bolts.

How do I get this bolt out? Fortunately, it is late and I am too tired to get the grinder out and cut the bracket apart. :blink:

What would you suggest before I start demolition?:shrug:

[raffaelli]

So i post the above, grab a handful of Cheeze-Its and drop under the car again. I literally pushed with my finger on the bolt and it fell out.:o:happy204:


But, how am I supposed to get the alternator out of the engine bay? It seems too large to get it out of the top side or bottom.:blink:

[raffaelli]

So th alternator fianlly came out of the engine bay. I disconnected some the upper arm and shock bottom so I can get some wiggle room with the axle.

Everything seems. No more smoke.

[lateapex911]

Chris, I'm not a Honda mechanic, but one thing I know: PB Blaster. I spray it one stuff before I need to take it apart, it's pretty good stuff, better than WD40. If I can schedule it, I spray a day before.

Just a tip you probably already know!

[raffaelli]

Yeah, I had that on there also. I think that is what caused me to be able to just push it out with my finger. Interesting though how cheap work on the car becomes when you do it yourself.

[trobbins]

I've probably replaced , let's see about 6 of these before . Only one car more than once .
I soon realized that you don't have to take any of the suspension apart .
Once the part is free of the bracketry you can move it "alternator" aside and loosen the lower bracket either from the engine or just remove one bolt push it up and out of the way enough to get the part out and the new one in .
Remember to use some anti-seaze on the bolts when you button it all up .
One other thing you may want to consider is if you didn't like doing the job once you really won't like doing it again any time soon .
Don't buy cheap rebuilt parts . I buy Honda parts when it comes to that type of thing .
The only time I ever bought a parts store reman part and put it on my street car I ended up doing it all over again within a matter of two days because the part didn't work correctly .

You've probably got it done by now but I hope this helps . :023:

[raffaelli]

So my first race has come and gone. What an eye opening experience!:024:

We arrived with the car Thursday night, go the lay of the land, registered and hung out for a bit.
Friday, my crew and I volunteered at T&S all day as part of my license deal. The group up there is very nice and a pleasure to work with. I have added T&S to my list as something to do on a regular basis.

Saturday come….it was NOT supposed to rain. I woke up and “FFFF” dark clouds…. I was not prepared for rain…no tires. Anyone that saw me at the school knows I was tooling around on 100K mile street tires. I was NOT going to do that again. Assuming that Smarty would not have tires, we decided if there is rain, we would pack up and go home. So the qualifier comes and the rain starts.

During the qualifier, I felt like I was driving my mirror more than the track in front of me. I was not holding a good line, I found myself waving EVERYONE by, and sometimes even waiting for them to catch up and pass. I was trying way too hard at not being ‘that guy that F’ed up someone’s run’. As a result, I ruined my own. The car is way underdeveloped in handling and horsepower. Driver is way underdeveloped. Although I feel had I been on my game, I could have driven faster that the car wanted to go. To be quite honest, I was overwhelmed. I remember seeing Andy, Chandler, and Driscoll in my mirror, then next to me, then gone. I watch them as they went by. I was in awe of the power can skill to place the car wherever and the ability to correct for the growing slick conditions as if it was second nature. It seemed like there were 5 Driscoll’s behind me at the same time! Then those nutty Audi’s….they sound like a train. The cars seem REALLY LOOOOONNNG and go on and on forever when they pass. I do remember passing my first car – that was a thrill!

So I get out of the car, catch my breath, rain starts heavy. My chief financial officer gives me the ‘I am having a great time, I love being at the track, your entire family is here (I had a crowd of about 20!), go get some rubber'. While you were all eating at FOM I was off to Smarty…..he actually had a set of 14” Hoosier rains for me! Mount them up, and guess what? As soon as I handed over the card, someone said they looked at the radar, rain will last an hour. I few minutes later, no more rain. Damn. But at least the rain tire deal for me is over. I actually was hoping for more rain cause I really wanted to try those tires. IA few fellow IT drivers came over and thanked me for buying tires because that would guarantee that we would be racing in the dry….sure enough, those pretty rains, still have stickers on them.

Andy comes up to me and says “Get on the wheel”, right away I looked for an excuse…he cut me off, saying “I don’t want to hear it, just do it”.
Doug Case and Dave, who have helped me since the beginning of all this, were a tremendous help that day giving me information about driving, and mostly how to keep my mind in the task at hand.

So the race comes, I started 36th – not surprised, and where I thought I would be. I remember from the school that I was left behind on the practice start because I was not prepared for the green. Not this time, I was in the right gear at the right RPM and ready! So there is the green, the track goes from 2 lines to an array of cars across the entire track and them some. I felt good as I was able to keep up into the first turn. There were cars outside Big Bend, then I saw a hole open in the driving line…at first I said, hey look at that…then it was 'you ass, get in there', so I did. I was able to pass a bunch of cars through Big Bend and into the left hander. I think that is where I stayed for just a short bit. Again I found myself waving people by. I was not sure if they were passing for position or just lapping me. I am sure they were passing for position now that I look back on it. But I felt like I was far more on the wheel than I was in the qualifier. I did hear Andy in the back of my head in lap one. There was a yellow car that I qualified next to and was using as a benchmark. I passed him and pulled away. Then I noticed I was loosing power in third gear, it seemed like I was slowing down (it was in my head because the lap times do not reflect this). The yellow car was creeping up on my.

I came out of Big Bend, saw Greg off the inside, a BMW and Miata outside, that lap, heading down the down hill I heard a BANG. I had not heard that noise in the car before. I thought maybe I made contact with the tailgating Miata, but his windshield was turning black, then the smoke. ‘Oh crap oil” I heard in the back of my head. I slid the car off the track at just about track out, and tried to keep it off the pavement and off the wall which was a little tricky given the wet grass and the lack of full stopping power. I was able to coax the car along and tuck onto the access bridge over the stream just shy of start finish. I watch the rest of the race from there. The double yellow come out just a minute or so later. I was thinking – damn it, I caused the yellow?”. Then my crew told me that someone was off somewhere else and it was not me….whew.

The workers were very friendly and understanding. I waved to my new friends at T&S as I crossed start finish….under the power of a pick up truck. They dragged me to my paddock as I watch the rest of you in impound. So I ended up with a fist sized hole in the block at the #3 rod. I was not upset, I was TOTALLY thrilled about being on the trackl. The impulse buy of tires and the detonation really were not even on my mind at all. I loved every minute of racing, even if I didn’t realize it at the time. I want more, I will learn and will get better.

My family was totally impressed with the level of stuff that was at the track. They have ZERO racing experience, even as spectators. They did not understand what I was getting into. They were not aware of how safety minded the entire event is. I am glad they were there. Now they can stop calling me crazy - or maybe not. They will be back. They really enjoyed the day of hanging out.

I was called to the tower. I expected to hear that I would not get credit for the race since I missed about half of it, and that I would not get the signature I needed since my car blew up. My wife and I reported to the tower. We spoke with Terry. He shook my hand letting me know that I did a great job getting off the track, keeping my oil to myself, and tucking onto the bridge. He signed my book! HOLY SHIEET! Sweet. On my way out, my buddies at T&S let me know that I did enough of the race to avoid the DNF. Score again! :happy204:I finished 35th and 6th in class.

So I unwind the next day. Get the car in the garage and start planning. I am a do it yourself kind of person and I have another engine to drop in. I don’t have a clue how to swap an engine. But I have been out in the garage every night figuring it out. Tom Blaney had some post race comments for me that are, very helpful. What an asset he is.

The broken engine, which now smells like burnt popcorn is out of the car and in the corner of the garage like a beaten orfan. I have the accessories transferred; I am waiting on a new clutch disc before I wrap it up and put it back in the car. I hope to be done Labor Day weekend.

I plan to be at the Runoffs. I will not have a faster car, but I will be more on the wheel (it is etched into my brain) and looking to learn more.

Thanks to everyone that helped me get to and through that day. I was a top five of my life day for me!:smilie_pokal:

[bonespec]

LOL...........

Bonespec = transzex = Mista Bone


Cheers my friend, get to MO and we shall toast together.


What was the reason??????


LOL!!!!!!!

[JLawton]

Nice job Chris. Glad you had fun!!

- The urge to buy new tires will NEVER leave!! LOL Make sure you bag them and store them properly (they were the Hoosier Rain, right??)
- Andy gave good advice!
- Having gotten to know you this season, you've got the right attitude and frame of mind. Everything else is easy. You'll do well in this sport.
- Make Mr Blaney your best friend. He has been known to do a pretty good job behind the wheel of a CRX!! LOL
- Hope to see you at the NARRC Offs!!

[raffaelli]

LOL...........

Bonespec = transzex = Mista Bone


Cheers my friend, get to MO and we shall toast together.


What was the reason??????


LOL!!!!!!!

Geez bud, your everywhere!

MO is penciled for next season.

[raffaelli]

Nice job Chris. Glad you had fun!!

- The urge to buy new tires will NEVER leave!! LOL Make sure you bag them and store them properly (they were the Hoosier Rain, right??)
- Andy gave good advice!
- Having gotten to know you this season, you've got the right attitude and frame of mind. Everything else is easy. You'll do well in this sport.
- Make Mr Blaney your best friend. He has been known to do a pretty good job behind the wheel of a CRX!! LOL
- Hope to see you at the NARRC Offs!!

Funny thing about tires. I race radio controlled cars also. I can't seem to leave a hobby shop without tires! Yes, Hoosier Rains.

Thanks for the comments. Guy like you make things more fun.

Counting down to the runoffs!

[bonespec]

Funny thing about tires. I race radio controlled cars also. I can't seem to leave a hobby shop without tires!

BSR foamy's?

[raffaelli]

BSR foamy's?

HA! Nah, I prefer Jaco or GQ (mostly GQ)

[bonespec]

HA! Nah, I prefer Jaco or GQ (mostly GQ)

I'm a old friend of John Foister who has owned BSR for quite some time. It was the "tweak" of my 1/10 scale carpet car that taught me about corner weighting WAY before I even thought about Autox.

It's not that much different! (OVAL setup)

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m307/bonespec/RC%20Stuff/P4180001.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m307/bonespec/RC%20Stuff/P4180002.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m307/bonespec/RC%20Stuff/P4180003.jpg


Spec class, RC cars under IT rules :)

[raffaelli]

I have a similiar board for my road racing cars. the setups on the RC car translate directly to 1:1 car. gReat training.

BSR caps on the track I used to race at were the ticket.

[raffaelli]

So the replacement engine is in. All hooked up. After a few minutes of sweet talk, the engine startups and run with no issues.:026:

EXCEPT....

I stepped on the clutch and down to the floor it goes and does not return. The linkage it hooked up at the lever.

Damn. It is the first sunday of football. I will deal with it this another day.

Any thoughts on where to trouble shoot?:shrug:

[ITC Racer]

Have you adjusted the clutch cable? Where the clutch cable housing attaches to the trans, there is a threaded adjustment there to allow for clutch wear. The factory manual talks about this adjustment. If that is good, perhaps the throwout bearing is not installed correctly?

[Xian]

Have you adjusted the clutch cable? Where the clutch cable housing attaches to the trans, there is a threaded adjustment there to allow for clutch wear. The factory manual talks about this adjustment. If that is good, perhaps the throwout bearing is not installed correctly?

Yep, check the clutch cable adjustment first. If the arm it attaches to at the tranny has no resistance and if the pedal goes to the floor and doesn't come back up then I'd guess the spring on the throwout bearing wasn't installed correctly. :(

[raffaelli]

Thanks guys. I had the coupler stuff at the lever all crazy like. I refered to an old photo to see how it was...and changed it.

The adjustment nut was a few turns off. Works now.

[Tom Blaney]

It's all about preperation, the little details will kill you. One thing I learned is to check the installation of each part as you go it save a lot of steps backward

[raffaelli]

It's all about preperation, the little details will kill you. One thing I learned is to check the installation of each part as you go it save a lot of steps backward


Your are totally correct. Attaching the clutch cable was the last thing on my check list before I turned the key. I jumped into the light instead of walking to it. All I needed to do was give the adjustment screw a few turns and move the bevel washer to the other side of the lever. All good.

There were high fives going around when that engine started up. That was a big chore for the untrained. Doing 98% of it solo took about 30 hours. I didn’t really run into big problems other than some very stubborn bolts in the exhaust. Getting the engine back into the bay was a bit of a chore. The passenger side mount and front mount could have been designed a bit different to allow a bit more room to drop the engine in.

I feel like the next time I have to do engine work, I will not be intimidated.

One thing I learned…don’t fill up the tranny until the axles are back in….ask me how I know.

[gran racing]

- The urge to buy new tires will NEVER leave!! LOL

Ain't that the truth. :(

Nice write-up and I'm sure you'll work you way up the pack soon enough. Too funny about the tranny fluid!! The first time I did the engine thing it took me much longer to remove it than put back in. Guess that's what happens when you go a bit crazy with a digital camera, printing pictures, and labeling it all. See ya at the NARRC Runoffs.

[trobbins]

Chris .

Getting the engine back into the bay was a bit of a chore. The passenger side mount and front mount could have been designed a bit different to allow a bit more room to drop the engine in.

You kind of have to understand how the car was originally built .
The drivetrain was installed as a unit with the cradle from the bottom .
Dang production based cars .

[raffaelli]

I am fairly certain that this sucks......and I dont mean my driving.:blink:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hM2XOK91-tw

[raffaelli]

I wanna get rid of the stalks on the steering column

http://www.improvedtouring.com/forums/showthread.php?p=274138#post274138

[Sandro]

put a blown fuse for the wipers and they won't go on, but if its a rainy weekend don't forget to change it.

[raffaelli]

I am looking for some photos of the connection to the cage front and rear of a right side net. Anyone?

[raffaelli]

So I have a suspension on the car now, radio install is next.

I have installed some of Tom Blaney's bushings. Top Quality without a doubt. Recommended.

[lateapex911]

Well, you handled the "event" well. Nice pull off! Well, at least you didn't have to sit there in the pouring rain, LOL>

[raffaelli]

Thanks. I left my helmet on for a few minutes while I was hanging out on the bridge so no one would see me screaming at myself.:026:

[raffaelli]

I think about seat time per dollar...

Attendance at a school count as a race toward regional/national license?

[spnkzss]

Most schools won't let you attend again if you already hold a current license.

[Andy Bettencourt]

I think about seat time per dollar...

Attendance at a school count as a race toward regional/national license?

I would highly doubt it.

You can do as many schools as you want. Just understand that Novice Permit holders will receive first priority if there is a waiting list - but we haven't had a full school since ???

Seat time per dollar? TEST DAY.

[raffaelli]

Seat time per dollar? TEST DAY.

Yeah, thats what I figured. More track time than a typical track day run by SCDA or PDA or similar?

[lateapex911]

Yeah, thats what I figured. More track time than a typical track day run by SCDA or PDA or similar?

not at Lime Rock, LOL. As a one man band, I went to LRP for a test session last year. of course, they delayed the start until "after lunch", then even later as the "Club guys" (all 3 of them, 2 in Miatae) circulated. you can imagine the suspense as we all twidled our thumbs. At least the club guys could have run Bugattis or something fun!

Then it was rush rush rush, get your sessions in and get outa here, LOL. I really wish it was like the old days, when one guy could do the stuff he has to do between sessions, but the schedule made it tough. Thanks to Forrest and the guys at Flatout, they pitched in with tire temps!

Bottom line, be prepared to spend top dollar for not so much time, and have your ducks in a row if you expect to be able to actually use that time.

[JLawton]

Yeah, thats what I figured. More track time than a typical track day run by SCDA or PDA or similar?


Although I'm sure there will be an increase this year, the NHMS test days are the bext bang for the buck.

If my memory is right, $100 for a 1/2 day and $150 for the full. And some times the morning is an open session depending on how many cars are there.

[Andy Bettencourt]

It depends. Not more 'time on track' than SCDA (which I highly recommend) but maybe more 'quality time'.

First you need to establish your goals. If you don't mind only being able to pass in certain areas and knowing you will get frustrated a fair bit, SCDA is for you. Lots of on track time.

If you want to simulate real passing situations, a test day is what you want. LRP only does half day test days that start at 1:00pm and go until 5pm.

IMHO, the best weekend for your money would be a test day at NHMS (8+ 20min sessions for $150), then the school, then the Regional.

[lateapex911]

IMHO, the best weekend for your money would be a test day at NHMS (8+ 20min sessions for $150), then the school, then the Regional.

Yea, you'll leave with a worn out car, LOL. But, you'll have nailed the setup by the end.

And Chris, I know Lime Rock requires you to not even drive, it's so close, but if you gang up the events like Andy suggests, it won't cost a lot, and you will have to take a day off anyway for SCDA, an LRP test, or an NHMS test.

To bad NHMS sucks, LOL. But too bad a test 4 hours at LRP is what $250? Acck. Skips going to run that place into the ground. :(

[raffaelli]

I have a different untested engine and clutch in the car along with a totally new suspension. I would like to stay at LRP till I get it sorted out since I can load drive and unload in less than an hour.

I would really like to make the 6 hour trip to the test day school and regional but I am not going to do it with so many unknowns about the car. I guess I will sign up for a track day in april at LRP hoping to get things sorts so I can goto the school weekend in NH.

[JLawton]

I would really like to make the 6 hour trip to the test day school and regional but I am not going to do it with so many unknowns about the car..


Don't be a wuss!! And if it takes you 6 hours to get to NHMS, you must tow like my granma!!


:cool::D

(you're not a rookie anymore, get ready for the trash talk!!! )

[raffaelli]

LOL.......guess I should leave my skirt home...

[raffaelli]

Don't go toe to toe with 'em Rock!



http://www.improvedtouring.com/gallery/displayimage.php?imageid=279

[lateapex911]

SIX hours! It's 3:15 for me from down on the coast in Fairfield! Of course, yea the track sucks, but hey, it IS a good deal....

[raffaelli]

SIX hours! It's 3:15 for me from down on the coast in Fairfield! Of course, yea the track sucks, but hey, it IS a good deal....


248.5 miles door to door. About 25 of it at 30mph. With a pee stop at that big rest stop in NH, 6 hours.

[Andy Bettencourt]

Don't go toe to toe with 'em Rock!



http://www.improvedtouring.com/gallery/displayimage.php?imageid=279

I want this picture. Can you send me a high res version? Dang that splitter/spoiler is low under braking...geez.

This pass happens at 11:20 in Greg's video here:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=8402032115544622275&ei=mu-hSemcJI2grwKpwoDNCg&q=greg+amy+pro+it

Awesome! Of course if you watch long enough, you will see me get murdered on the restart...

[raffaelli]

This is one of the Roz photos. I will scan it at a higher res and sent it.

[raffaelli]

The dust is coming off the car....

By labor day, hope to have a prepped engine, tranny and exhaust in the car. Maybe show for the race in NH if I can get a test day in first.