Progress on my car

[Z3_GoCar]

I thought I'd share these pictures from my web-site of progress made in the last couple of weeks. The motor now runs due to both a bad fuel pump, and a defective crank sensor. From my spare differential, the output flanges allow the axles to bolt up. The wiring is finished and clean, the stock cluster is replaced with gauges, the harness, the window net, the fire bottle, and battery cutoff are all installed. How many other racers have kept their leather interior? :D
Enjoy,

James

http://49thaero.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/.pond/diff_mounted.jpg.w300h221.jpg
http://49thaero.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/.pond/from_behind.jpg.w300h225.jpg
http://49thaero.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/.pond/from_passengers.jpg.w300h225.jpg
http://49thaero.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/.pond/racers_cockpit.jpg.w300h225.jpg

[JoshS]

James,

Looks very cool!

Note that there is a new requirement for passenger side door bars effective 1/1/07 that wasn't there before. Looks like you'll need to make a change, if I get this all correctly.

"Effective 1/1/07 and permissible 10/1/05 two (2) side tubes
connecting the front and rear hoops across both door openings
are mandatory. Door side tubes may extend into the door.
NASCAR-style side protection is permitted. The door window
glass, window operating mechanism, inner door trim panel,
armrest, map pockets, and inside door latch/lock operating
mechanism may be removed and the inner door structural panel
may be modified, but not removed to facilitate this type of
side protection. The stock side impact beam and the outside
door latch/lock operating mechanism shall not be removed or
modified."

[Z3_GoCar]

Hey Josh,

Thanks for the comments. I knew about the door bar rule, but won't worry about it untill the rest of the season is over in mid-November. I'm planning on taking advantage of the passenger side door gutt then too. Although in ITE it's wide open, I'd like to have a justification for removing the passenger side power window.

[Newbie]

Hi James,

I started doing track stuff in a '99 M Roadster. Tons of fun and I hope you do well.

I follow the Roadfly Z3 message board and I'm wondering if you've heard of a potential problem with the rear diff mount cracking. It can be welded and repaired, but my guess is that it may be worth it to have it reinforced during your original build. There is a James Spurling that frequents that board...any relation?

Steve Smyczek

[JoshS]

Be careful with that repair or any reinforcement. The rules say:

"All chassis/structural/electrical repair, if performed, shall
be in concurrence with factory procedures, specifications,
and dimensions. Unless specifically authorized by the
manufacturer for repair or allowed by these rules, no
reinforcement, i.e., seam welding, material addition, etc., is
permitted."

[Z3_GoCar]

Hey Steve,

Yes, I started on roadfly about three years ago when I got my 1.9l Z3, I post under the nom-de-plume of Ja_, as in the German pronounciation or "Yah". The proper factory repair is to weld a second bracket over the cracked one and then seam stich any broken welds, I guess this was done to enhance the rear chrush zone without really eliminating it as welding the seam solid would do. Really the best way to avoid this issue is to replace the soft rubber subframe bushings and the rubber differential bushing with aluminum/delrin. I'm planning on tackeling that this winter.

I just got the car on the track this Friday during a test/tune day at Buttonwillow. I've got to say the car was Awesome, wicked fast and fun. Four out of five straights, required a shift to fifth gear which means I was doing better than 100mph at the braking zone of those straights. I was just getting comfortable with the car and learning how this configuration looked at speed. Next weekend I race at Laguna Seca with the BMW club/vintage SCCA. It'll be a hoot. Good luck with the conversion, I wouldn't worry about the cracked differential mount, unless it's already happend to the car and you've got to fix it now. Just replace the sub-frane/differential mount bushings in the not to distant future and you should be good. BTW I know some one who's put over 100 track days on his '98 M-roadster and not had to deal with a cracked sub-frame yet. You might ask for Madman(John) and see what he has to say.

James

[BMW RACER]

James, which track configuration were ypu running at BURP? And what final drive?

[Marcus Miller]

:birra:

Awesome James, glad to see it coming together!

Marcus

[Newbie]

Ahhh yes...Madman,

He gave me some of my first tips on taking the Z to the track including compatible pads allowing a switch for track days without switching rotors. I don't have the problem on my MZ-3, but just wanted to make sure you were aware of any potential problems. I actually race a second gen RX-7, so my only problem with BMW's is getting by them with the tractor like torque they produce!

Steve Smyczek

[Z3_GoCar]

James, which track configuration were ypu running at BURP? And what final drive?
[/b]

Hey John,

Kevin told me he'd seen you out there on Saturday, I was parked next to Kevin's car and across from the Plavin's. We were running the same configuration as VARA, 25a clockwise. The car's got a 3.73 in it right now with a loose limited slip. I'm not sure about my lap times as I doubt any were taken, but I'm sure my timidity in Taledega didn't help my lap times, but I'm sure after a couple more sessions I'll feel more confident to just hit it flat out. I do know that I was going better with each session though. I'll see you at Willowsprings.

James