Does Kumho have a serious problem? Answer = No

[Bildon]

See recent posts for updates.....


First off let me say that I'm not some paid Hankook or Hoosier driver...
Anyone who knows me, knows that I've been running Kumhos forever and that I have always been very happy with their tires. The cost to performance ratio combined with the regional Contingency program is hard to beat.
However, we recently had our first real bad experience with Kumho in all these years of running them and I'm posting this not to embarrass Kumho but to alert anyone out there to a potential problem. Even if it was a bad batch or an already addressed issue...this info should be in the public domain for safety reasons alone!

The Tires in Question:
Kumho V710, size 225/50-15
The markings on the tires are as follows:
K60, 1305, YA5B, DOTH2MP

Mounted on brand new 15x7" wheels and run on the FRONT only of our ITS Corrado.
Each front corner weight: about 870 lbs.
Springs ~900lb/in.
Cold Pressure ~28psi
Hot Pressure ~38-40psi
3* of camber
Temps as they came off track just prior to discovering the problem:
~180/170/175 << dont draw any conclusions about camber. (quick cool down lap but long pit lane.)
But they were not over 200*
They were mounted and balanced correctly (inside facing inwards) and were never dismounted and remounted.

So here is the story.
The tires were purchased with Kumho bucks from an ITB victory in summer of &#39;05 and then stored in bags until late this Spring when they were mounted for use. They were fitted to the car to make sure there were no clearance issues and removed. At the same time some 205 Kumho V710 were purchased and were used without incident in the first tests of the year and the first race of this year at Nelson Ledges. Also some 225 Victoracers (older) were used in tests without issue.

Watkins Test
In late July at Watkins Glen we had these 2 V710 on the front during some of our runs on the Friday test day. They were stickers at the beginning of the day. Since we were working on rear brake bias problems and splitter/air damn issues we never got to running them hard for a prolonged period and were in and out of the pits a lot. I&#39;d say we did about 3 sessions and a total of maybe 10-15 laps on them. They were not on the car for every session. While they never felt bad we did record a high 233* on the inner left and 210 on the inner right when checking the tire temps during the hottest part of the day. (came in hot, pit #1) 40 psi HOT, track temp 100+

Pulled the tires off the car and put them in the truck. Didnt notice any problem. (Didnt look for it)
We then ran 205 V710 rears and Hoosiers in the front for the race weekend.

Next event: BeaveRun.
Saturday the 225 V710 were mounted to the front and again 205 V710 were mounted in the back.
Session 1: We were bedding in new brakes and checking for problems with our recently repaired suspension. All was well. No hot laps were run.
Session 2: Was sunny and dry so we went for a good time. I had plans to do only a few laps, bring it in to do tire temps (needed data at this track) and then go out and do a few more laps. We did just that. temps were in the 180*s. However during that second session we nearly took out a number of cars in front of us when going into the hairpin, immediately upon applying the brakes the car locked it&#39;s tires and pitched sideways. I immediately knew this was not a driver mistake and that something was amiss so I brought the car in where the crew saw the damage to the tires and told me they were "blistered". This was odd as I had not been locking the fronts other than maybe once and even then it was a very fast lock and release...they were not dragged along the track.

Upon removing the tires we were VERY surprised to find that the tread of one of the tires had actually began to simply peel away from the belts. And in the case of both tires there were "stretch" marks along the shoulder of the tire like the tread was straining to tear away from the inner plys. Also each tire had a large patch of "rubber" that had chemically altered it&#39;s composition. Even though they tires had cooled to the point where they could be easily touched, both had a large area that was the consistency of "Playdoh". IOW, it felt as if it was no longer rubber but a VERY soft doughy material with no elasticity. It was literally as soft as a wet kitchen sponge.

These areas of altered rubber were not in the shape of a sqaure "flat spot", they were also not on the inner side where the 3* of camber would cuase a flat spot to be located. Nor were there marks in any sort of radial patter that would indicate rubbing on the fender liner or bumper cover. They were simply large "blobs" on the middle and outer middle of the tire as if cornering heat from underneath had caused this. << Total guess on my part.

Below are the photos of the tires as they appear today. The "Playdoh" areas have settled a bit and have less of the "cottage cheese" look than they did when warm. The pics do clearly show the perfectly good peice of rubber that peeled away on the one tire and the beginnings of what appear to be another imminent "peeling" on the other.

I will be showing this info to the Kumho engineers who I hope can tell me this is indicative of a bad batch they had. I had heard of V700 problems a year ago but I am not aware of any V710 problems.

http://www.bildon.com/pub/KTire33.jpg

More pics:
http://www.bildon.com/pub/KTire32.jpg
http://www.bildon.com/pub/KTire31.jpg
http://www.bildon.com/pub/KTire30.jpg
http://www.bildon.com/pub/KTire29.jpg

http://www.bildon.com/pub/KTire28.jpg

[RSTPerformance]

Interesting... I don&#39;t run kumho&#39;s but I have seen weird "flatspots" as a result of lockups in the rain on other makes of tires... probably totaly seperate issue though as you were in the dry.

I know Hoosier has been good to us when we have shown them tires "with issues" hopefully Kumho will do the same!!! let us know how they respond.

Raymond

[erlrich]

Bill - there was a thread on another board about this not too long ago... here it is: http://www.roadrace-autox.com/bbs/forums/t...id=1112&start=1 (http://www.roadrace-autox.com/bbs/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1112&start=1) .

The two thing I took from that discussion were that proper heat cycling is muy importante, and that this seems to be mostly a problem with FWD cars. Not sure if that helps. I have tried to get in touch with Bob Vilven to see if he could provide some insight, but Bob can be difficult to track down sometimes.

[David Ferguson]

That is most certainly a tire construction problem. I had a bad set of Hankook slicks that did the exact same thing. (only happened after 3 - 5 laps on my Sports Racer). It was traced to a mold-release compound used for one batch of tires, a few other examples were found, and the entire batch was recalled.

Your pictures along with any numbers on the sides of the tires (batch codes) should be forwarded to the US Kumho representative. You may be able to get a couple of replacement tires.

Good Luck!

[joeg]

Bill-Beaverun seems to be especially tough on tires and I think it is caused by the R, R, L Over the top R combination with the curbing. In a FWD car it seems that you are literally erasing the rubber.

I swear by my KUMHO Victoracers--in the damp-- but I won&#39;t use anything but a Hoosier in the dry.

Cheers.

[Campbell]

Tires can&#39;t "uncure" if the rubber is mixed properly with the curatives. It appears the tread rubber was not mixed/cured properly or there was a contaminate/foreign material introduced in the manufacturing process.

Flat spotting or improperly heat cycling the tires will cause premature wear but not spongy rubber. Actually rubber cures its entire life.. the rate of cure is drastically reduced from what happens in manufacturing but none the less it never stops, that is why old tires get so hard.

It will be interesting to hear what the Kumho response is.. it is unfortunate these tires got through quality system but how they handle it will show what kind of company they are.

[Bildon]

I have received a quick and excellent response from Rudy at the Kumho Tech center.

So is it Kumho&#39;s fault? Sort of, but it&#39;s not what you&#39;d think.
On the Kumho and TireRack web sites, the recommended camber settings for both the Victoracer and the V700 are -2° to -3°
" will perform best when camber is adjusted into the -2° to -3° range. "

Therefore when we began to run the V710 we looked for setup information on this exact tire and could find none. I even emailed Rudy back in March to ask about exact dimensions on the 205 V710 but neglected to ask if the camber recomendations had changed. Therefore, given the info on their website I assumed nothing had changed, right? WRONG !

What follows is the response I have received. I will be folowing the advice to the letter and will be letting you all know how I make out. I have also asked Kumho to please have the TireRack and Kumho websites updated with accurate setup info in the interest of safety for others.
----------------

Bill,
Thanks for your message. My conclusion is too much negative camber. I know it&#39;s hard to accept this, but the V710 actually prefers around -1 to -1.5 degrees of camber. We have seen this failure mode on cars with camber about 2.5 degrees negative.

The pics with the outside of the tire starting to show some degradation is due to the fact that there is barely enough contact area towards the outside shoulder. This leads to less footprint pressure and the tread area that is actually in contact with the pavement has higher level of shear stresses because there is not enough normal force at that point to keep the footprint glued to the road.

The V710 has a very round mold shape which means a very round shoulder profile. The tire was designed to roll over onto the outside shoulder during cornering. I would also expect that you have poor braking and acceleration performance as well because the footprint is triangular in shape due to the high negative camber.

Accurate tread temperatures need to be taken immediately after a hot lap and near the pit lane entrance. Our experience is that tread temperatures cool down at a rate of 20 degrees per minute when at rest. A rolling tire can cool down as much as 60 degrees on a cool down lap.

I will not rule out the possibility of defective tires. Let&#39;s first get your setup changed and see what happens. Since you have been a Kumho supporter, I&#39;ll go ahead and replace your tires, but please change your setup.

Kind regards,
Rudy Consolacion

[johng]

Bildon,
I&#39;m the one who started the thread on rr-ax.com. I&#39;ve been trying to work with Tire Rack since that&#39;s where I made my purchase. I called and spoke with Sara who told me to email her pictures. That&#39;s been over two weeks with no reply. It&#39;s not like I was even asking for anything other than a reply, but getting no reply makes things worse.

My set up is similar to yours (between 2.5 and 3.3 degrees camber depending on track), but I&#39;m using the 215/50-13. Pressures are pretty much identical to yours, and the "event" I had was also similar to yours.

I&#39;ve put pictures up on the other thread and mine split like a banana. This is only 1 of 4 with similar issues.
http://jellybeanracing.com/John/Misc./Kumh...res/tire1-4.JPG (http://jellybeanracing.com/John/Misc./Kumho%20tires/tire1-4.JPG)

Do you have contact info for Rudy?

John

[Bildon]

I IM&#39;ed you with his email.

According to him, your camber (and mine) is way too high for these V710. Why they dont publish the correct setup info is a mystery to me especially since they already knew of cases where "excessive" camber had caused delamination.

Anyway, I&#39;m going to do what Kumho says and run a lower pressure, less camber setup. I&#39;m also going to go as low as 28psi due to his suggestions about my spring rate and what the V710 wants.

If I&#39;m still fast and the tires last a whole weekend I&#39;ll still say they are good tires. But as for not publishing the proper (safe) setup info, that&#39;s still an open issue.

PS - For those of you out there running the V710. If you are in this questionable camber range here is something to look out for. If you ever feel the car is unusually unstable, especially under braking... unstable like you are getting odd yawing motions while braking, this is indicative of the problem. This is the sensation I had before the tires "went". I was thinking it was due to my alignment or some crash damage that was not repaired. I did not hear any flapping or feel vibration like you normally do with a bad tire. When they went, they went FAST!

[RSTPerformance]

We run more than -5 degrees of camber in our tires, looks like we wont be getting any Kumo&#39;s anytime soon :wacko:

Bill- Out of curiosity what do your tempatures come up to? Only reason I ask is last weekend at lime Rock I ran with -5.1 degrees of camber on the left front. Tire presures came up to 42psi and the tire temps came up to (outside edge) 202 (Middle) ~180 (Inside edge) 163. That would indicate to me that I need more camber, correct? The cool down lap should be cooling the outside edge of the tire more than the inside with all that camber, so for us we usually want the inside edge to be hotter not the outside...

You are running a car that is as heavy as ours in the front so I would think you would need a lot more than -2 degrees camber to get your car handling well???

Just wondering, I know this is "top secret" info, my bro will probably shoot me for posting it!!!

Raymond

[Nomex95]

hey Bill,
I was running the Kumhos for the first time at Beaver Run. i&#39;m used to the Hoosiers. but they don&#39;t make the size I wants any more. Anyway I felt that in the dry pratice the car would slide into a turn and then grip almost violently. I didn&#39;t know if it was just me getting used to the tires and that is the way they handle? Also under braking the car would not stay in a straight line a couple of times, i thought maybe I was overdriving the car. i also had a lot of camber on the car and the spring rate is pretty stiff. Is this something you also felt on the handling of your car. I thought the Hoosier were easier to tell when they lost grip with the Kumhos I was waiting to feel the grip come on.
Like to know if that happened to you also
Thanks,
Charlie

[Bildon]

>>> Also under braking the car would not stay in a straight line a couple of times,
>>> i also had a lot of camber on the car and the spring rate is pretty stiff

This is exactly what Rudy was describing and is what I felt too.
Back the camber down to 1.5*
Also run the pressures lower and lower until you see you times stop improving. Try getting it down to 34-35psi HOT. You want to tire to roll all the way over to the first groove along the sidewall.

These tires were designed to roll over far more than what we&#39;re used to according to Kumho.

Temp target should be 200* and can go higher. 230-240* may not be too high. As he mentioned though get the temps immediately in the first pit stall... dont waste time getting back to pits either...you should be at race pace much to the corner workers&#39;s chagrin B) Best to do it before the session is over.

I&#39;m not sure when I&#39;ll be able to test this new setup. But I will be reporting on my findings.
If it works, great, if not..... :angry:

Raymond:
>> We run more than -5 degrees of camber in our tires

:119: Yikes. What are you front corner weights?
How much does the car roll? Spring rate?

>> I would think you would need a lot more than -2 degrees

Anybody who has followed me knows my ITS Corrado does not roll .. but it rocks! :figo:

Top secret? heh heh I thought it was becuase you could drive? :eclipsee_steering:
Now I know!

Nobody races Corrados and Audis so dont worry about it B)

[Nomex95]

Thanks for the info Bill. I was going to the Glen for the weekend with the enduro and was going to do the three hours on Hooisers that were still good and do the sprint the next day on Kumhos. But it looks like I would need to change the set up for the sprint and back out some of the camber I would use on the Hooisers. Just when you think you have a setup that works it changes :( I would like to know if you plan on going that weekend any info we can share may help.

[Bildon]

I&#39;ll be there.

If I were running an Enduro. I&#39;d do it on Victoracers. Not quite as fast as these newer tires but you cant destroy them if you tried. Camber, no camber, it doesnt matter. They last a long time too. We&#39;ve won many ITB races on Victoracers.

[JohnRW]

Last year we started running 710s&#39;s on the enduro cars, rather than the Victoracers or the Ecstas that we had run for years. It was a bit of a mental exercise for us to get used to the radically lower pressures of the 710&#39;s, and we never had camber issues (Showroom Stock and Spec Miata...not much room for creative cambers there), but the 710&#39;s were ab-so-friggen-lutely amazing. Better life and better &#39;feel&#39; on the brakes and corner entry than we were used to on the Ecstas and VR&#39;s, and tire life was as long...or longer. Won SM at the Nelson 12 Hour this year (CenDiv...&#39;open&#39; SM tire rule for Regls), only changed 1 tire and even ran the heavy rain sessions in the 710&#39;s (really).

Don&#39;t give up on them yet. Awesome tire.

[erlrich]

I just noticed this, from the Tire Rack website:

NOTES: While ECSTA V710 tires have an inflated shape with rounded shoulders to complement camber-challenged cars, they still benefit from vehicle alignments that offer significant negative camber.

Looks like they didn&#39;t get the memo either.

[dj10]

Don&#39;t give up on them yet. Awesome tire. [/b]



What&#39;s the weight & speed difference between SM (RWD) & Bill&#39;s Corrado (FWD)?

[rick88civic]

I am on my second season with these tires and only had a problem with higher pressures. Drop pressures so that you have 35psi Hot. I am running 2.8 - camber with no problems.

RIck J
ITA 88

[Bildon]

Kumho used to post the results of their national racing program on their site. I searched the SCCA site for results but cant find any. Does anyone know how Kumho is stacking up against the competition this year? I&#39;m particularly interested in knowing about the T2, T3 results.

[Colin@KW_Suspensions]

Bill, How did Rudy explain the "playdoh" type rubber that you noticed on the tire? I find it hard to believe that too much camber will change the consistency of the rubber. Did the "playdoh" type rubber harden up after it cooled?

Colin

[Bildon]

The rubber compound did permemantly change consistency after it blistered / tore away or whatever.
It never returned to the same state as it would have had it not separated from the cords and "balled up"

New tires arrived today. Will let you all know how I make out with the low presure, lower camber testing.

[Colin@KW_Suspensions]

I can understand some blistering and that type of thing from too much camber and improper tire pressures, but the "playdoh" type rubber consistency is baffling me. Other than an impurity in the rubber or some sort of chemical getting on the tire, I can&#39;t see how that is possible.

[JamesB]

Well not that I have seen that before, but you never know if the bonding agent they are using is having a bad reaction with too much heat in that area of the tire thus turning the normal blistered rubber into something mushy.

[gprodracer]

Not being an expert by any means, rubber does not "uncure" by excessive heat. It will melt, and turn "mushy" (sort of) but will harden back up when it cools back down. This will be interesting to follow up on, as I agree that this sounds more like some sort of "chemical" reaction, not one of just excessive heat buildup due to too much camber.

Please keep us posted!

Mark

[Bildon]

>> Please keep us posted!

OK :D so far the new V710s, while perilously close to the Corrado have shown no signs of fatigue or failure. :P
Will update you all after WGI.

http://www.bildon.com/pub/free.jpg

[Bildon]

OK we finally were able to get out to another race on the Kumho V710s.

We followed Kumhos advice and lowered our pressures and camber settings.
The result was that we were able to run through the qualifying session (front row) and 90% of the race with no tire related problems. :023: Temps were well within spec and the hot pressures stayed under 35 psi as instructed.

Unfortunately we suffered a transmission related failure due to damage from our wreck at WGI earlier in the year... so we didnt get any full race length data afterwards. But the tires appear to be fine outwardly.

We qualified the car in 2nd place, took the lead at then ran in 2nd place for 9 laps until trans broke. (see that report elswhere)

We will continue to keep our eye on these as we run the remaining races this year. Will update here if there is anything of interest to report.

[erlrich]

Bill - not challenging your findings, but it occurs to me that if indeed your first set was from a defective batch you would probably have had similar results this weekend, don&#39;t you think? I would like to ask, did you noticed any difference in the feel of the car with the new setup?

The reason I bring this up is that I ran the Labor Day double at Summit on a nearly new set of V710s (had run 6 - 7 laps for heat cycling back in July). I decided to go with the recommendations you had passed along from Rudy (even though I&#39;m in a rwd car) and so droppped my starting pressures to 28f/30r (normally start around 34 with Toyos) and my front camber from almost -3 to around -1.5 degrees. I left rear camber at around -2, since it is a much bigger pain to adjust on my car.

I unfortunately had to miss qualifying, and so started the Sunday race from the back of the pack with an untested setup. Long story short, the tires held up fine but the handling suffered (although I was still almost a second faster than on Toyos). The car developed a nasty understeer thorugh T10 and just generally didn&#39;t feel as comfortable to drive. So for the Monday race I said wtf and went back to camber & pressures that were closer to what I had been running with the Toyos. Specifically, I upped starting pressures to 32f/33r and moved camber back to -2.75 degrees. The car felt much, much better, and the tires still looked fine at the end of the day.

Now obviously I didn&#39;t get the chance to do any real testing, and I know every car is different and will need to be set up differently to get the most out of these tires, so I will withold final judgement for the time being. But my gut is telling me that the problems you (and others) have had may be less a result of improper setup than other issues. I have already made plans to do the test day before MARRS IX, so I should have more conclusive data to base an opinion on after that.

[dj10]

Bill - not challenging your findings, but it occurs to me that if indeed your first set was from a defective batch you would probably have had similar results this weekend, don&#39;t you think? I would like to ask, did you noticed any difference in the feel of the car with the new setup?

The reason I bring this up is that I ran the Labor Day double at Summit on a nearly new set of V710s (had run 6 - 7 laps for heat cycling back in July). I decided to go with the recommendations you had passed along from Rudy (even though I&#39;m in a rwd car) and so droppped my starting pressures to 28f/30r (normally start around 34 with Toyos) and my front camber from almost -3 to around -1.5 degrees. I left rear camber at around -2, since it is a much bigger pain to adjust on my car.

I unfortunately had to miss qualifying, and so started the Sunday race from the back of the pack with an untested setup. Long story short, the tires held up fine but the handling suffered (although I was still almost a second faster than on Toyos). The car developed a nasty understeer thorugh T10 and just generally didn&#39;t feel as comfortable to drive. So for the Monday race I said wtf and went back to camber & pressures that were closer to what I had been running with the Toyos. Specifically, I upped starting pressures to 32f/33r and moved camber back to -2.75 degrees. The car felt much, much better, and the tires still looked fine at the end of the day.

Now obviously I didn&#39;t get the chance to do any real testing, and I know every car is different and will need to be set up differently to get the most out of these tires, so I will withold final judgement for the time being. But my gut is telling me that the problems you (and others) have had may be less a result of improper setup than other issues. I have already made plans to do the test day before MARRS IX, so I should have more conclusive data to base an opinion on after that.

[/b]



You need to compare apples to apples. If your springs, shocks, sway bars are set for one setting of camber, and car in general you would need a good test day to change setting to compare the things you are talking about with the tires. Doing it on a race weekend would not be what I would call a good test. IMO

Good luck

[Zneed4speed]

Hey Bill,

Please send me Rudy&#39;s contact info. My car started to wiggle under braking at Roebling Road a couple of weeks ago and my crew spotted a weird looking tire. It looks like it is de-laminateing--if there is such a thing.
Not nearly so bad as yours, but we caught it early.
The tires have about 5 track sessions on them. I had heat cycled them once then ran them a couple of months later for 4 sessions when the problem occured. PSI is good but I do run more camber than Rudy told you.

Thanks.

[erlrich]

Hey Bill,

Please send me Rudy&#39;s contact info. My car started to wiggle under braking at Roebling Road a couple of weeks ago and my crew spotted a weird looking tire. It looks like it is de-laminateing--if there is such a thing.
Not nearly so bad as yours, but we caught it early.
The tires have about 5 track sessions on them. I had heat cycled them once then ran them a couple of months later for 4 sessions when the problem occured. PSI is good but I do run more camber than Rudy told you.

Thanks. [/b] Here are Rudy&#39;s phone and e-mail info:

1-330-670-2619
1-800-HI-KUMHO

RConsolacion @ mail.kumhotech.com (no spaces)

For what it&#39;s worth, I had almost the exact same failure as Bill (minus the gooey patch) at my last event at Summit Point in November. A patch about the size of my palm blew out in the center of the front left tire. Fortunately there was no catastrophic failure, in fact I didn&#39;t even realize it had happened until after I got back to the paddock and was checking over the tires. The tires were on their 6th heat cycle, and while I was running more front camber (2 3/4 degrees) and pressure (around 38 psi hot) than Rudy recommended to Bill I still think this is completely unacceptable. If Hoosier, Goodyear, Hankook, and Toyo can all get their tires to hold together under the less than perfect setup conditions many (most?) of us club racers subject them to, I see no reason why Kumho can&#39;t also.

Now that they have come out with a 225/45/15 I will be starting next year on Hankooks.

[charrbq]

Until this year, I&#39;ve used Kumho Ecstas for enduro&#39;s and damp track situations and never had even a remote problem with them. Then Kumho quick making 13" so I had to change brands.

One thing I didn&#39;t notice...or maybe missed...was that no one checked or reported the DOT number on the side of the tires in question. They are "street" tires, so they&#39;ve got to have one. This is an absolute must in tracking a tire&#39;s history. It tells the week of manufacture and the location of the plant...along with other things. Every manufacturer has the potential for mistakes, but the good ones, like Kumho, try to correct and to avoid them. But, there is a good chance that a raw materials supplier had a problem. This is not unheard of in the industry, but is more difficult to track. The tire manufacturer should get the info needed to track the production and the distribution of the tire, and this is best done through the DOT number. If they have the tires now, then I would assume they are doing/or have done that.

Contrary to what we might think, the making of a tire is an amazingly complicated process with tons of variables, anyone of which could cause a problem.

Also, Tire Rack is an excellent company that I&#39;ve enjoyed doing business with for many years, but when it comes to diagnosing problems with the products they sell, you&#39;d have a better chance at Walmart.

The Kumho rep should be commended for taking the time to listen and act in the manner that he did with the problem.

[philstireservice]

Just another bit of info on the Kumho V710......

Autocross sweet spot temperatures are ideally in the 140 - 150 degree area (in most cases)
Roadrace sweet spot temps ideally in the 180-200 degree area (in most cases)

Hoosier makes an A6 for autocross and a R6 for roadrace.....

Kumho makes one tire, one compound....V710.....

I should add that the Kumho V710 was the hot tire last year in autocross before Hoosier came out with the A6.

[iambhooper]

Performance wise, how do the Hankook&#39;s compare between the Khumo 710 and the Hoosier? Also, do they only pay contingency to the top overall finisher&#39;s in the group, or is it per class (like Khumo)? Khumo has an excellent contingency deal, yet I want to be on the safest most competetive product I can afford.

Those that are running Hoosier&#39;s on your ITC Honda&#39;s, what tire sizes are you running?

Thanks!