Best way to paint interior?

[Jiveslug]

Hey gang. We are almost done stripping the interior! Woohoo! I know, I know, its only the beginning but Im just happy to be making some measurable progress... Anyway, Im looking at ideas to paint the interior of the car. Im assuming I should wait until after we install the cage? The only thing that concerns me is that between the time that the interior is all out (i.e. next weekend) and the cage is installed (i.e. I have no idea when), will I have to worry about rust? Its winter-time of course, but Im in L.A., so its not terribly wet. Also, what color should I paint it? I dont want to blind myself from glare. Im thinking a flat white/grey/black? The car itself is looking like it will be Grabber Orange and flat black, so Id kind of like to co-ordinate colors.... Thanks everyone!

Ryan

[dave parker]

Ryan,
Here is the way we do it.
After the cage is in and all metal work is DONE. And you have removed all the insulation and sound deadening material from the interior.
1. Vacuum any dirt and metal out with the shop vac.
2. Cover or remove all glass.
3. Vacuum again.
4. Wipe down all surfaces to be painted with a rag that has Brake Cleaner on it.
5. Allow about twenty minutes to "air out".
6. Use Krylon Hard Hat Primer in the spray can. We use the "Light Machine Grey" (picture a shade lighter than battleship grey) color for less interior glare. But there is "Dark Machine Grey" as well.
7. Apply the paint in thin layers, with about an hour of drying time between coats.

Paint everything, floor, ceiling, cage, firewall, etc. Allow to dry for 24 hours. Your are now ready for the fun of putting the car together.

We have done all of our cars this way. One was done this way in 1993 and the grey paint on the interior looks great with no cracks or blemishes visible.

Good Luck
"dangerous" dave parker
wdcr ITC->HP #97

[spnkzss]

Originally posted by Jiveslug@Nov 17 2005, 03:29 PM
Hey gang. We are almost done stripping the interior! Woohoo! I know, I know, its only the beginning but Im just happy to be making some measurable progress... Anyway, Im looking at ideas to paint the interior of the car. Im assuming I should wait until after we install the cage? The only thing that concerns me is that between the time that the interior is all out (i.e. next weekend) and the cage is installed (i.e. I have no idea when), will I have to worry about rust? Its winter-time of course, but Im in L.A., so its not terribly wet. Also, what color should I paint it? I dont want to blind myself from glare. Im thinking a flat white/grey/black? The car itself is looking like it will be Grabber Orange and flat black, so Id kind of like to co-ordinate colors.... Thanks everyone!

Ryan

65718



I am not as careful about it as Parker, but I agree with the light machine grey from home depot or lowes. It doesn't look dirty when it is, you can get it anytime, it's easy to touch up. I will go in and vacuum, but that's about all I do. I paint right over the dirt and anything else. Paint everything and every once in awhile (every couple years) reapply as needed. Works great.

[joeg]

Krylon all the way (I prefer "Classic Grey").

I also like to paint all the roll cage tubes (masking the joints for fishmouthing and welding) AFTER bending and test fitting, but BEFORE welding/final installation.

For the Cage tubes you should also prime them with something compatible with the Krylon top coats.

AFTER welding, you just paint the welded joints.

It is difficult to get a nice complete paint job on the tubes after they are installed.

[lateapex911]

All good points..

If you are going to paint the car, (it's easy) then get yourself some Prep-sol, or whatever prepaint cleaner your supplier has for the paint lines he sells. Brakekleen may work fine as a cleaner, but there are different formulations, and you could have a compatibility problem.

I agree, vacuum and clean everything ...prep is 79% of the secret.

I like a glossy medium grey, and if you go the spray can route, krylon is your ONLY choice, unless you get carried away and go Wirth or something.

Prepaint the tubes, good idea Joe.

I like a metalic finish, so my interior is silver, and i hate the one coat metalics, so it was a base coat then a clear coat application.

Good luck, and do a good job!

[Speed Raycer]

I've done it just about every way possible. I've brushed, spray bombed, prepainted the tubes and used an HVLP gun. Each has their plusses and minuses.

If you go with the Rustoleum in the 1 qt can, be aware that it isn't compatable with the same color in the spray can.

Prepainting is definitely the way to go, although I don't always do it, or I'll just do the areas I know I'll have trouble getting to once the cage is installed. Just depends on how much I'm going to be climbing around in the car during the install.

The HVLP gun probably turns out the best with rattle can coming in second. I've yet to try one of the hvlp detail guns. I'm thinking that one of those would make easy work out of it.

Scotch Brite pads work well for tube prep.

[MMiskoe]

SEM makes a nice grey that covers well, sticks to anything, can be clear coated and is easy to recoat later. Did mine w/ a HLVP gun & it came out well. Stuff also works well for inner fender areas, under the trans tunnel etc. Can be brushed on if the finish isn't so picky. Lighter colors sure make it easier to work in later. Masking will take longer than you think.

I also konw a guy who sent is SM car off to Macco and they did inside & out for about $500. He did all the dissassembly/reassembly. He said they didn't get too many of the gauges painted over.

[Chris Wire]

I am in the process of painting my interior now (and have been for months!). I spray bombed the last car I built and was disappointed with the appearance and durability of the finished product.

Currently I have done all the proper prep (per Jake) and broke it down into sections. That's because I went a different route with the paint, using Krylon in a quart can and a steady supply of sponge brushes. The beauty is that the paint goes on pretty thick, which makes it more durable than the spray bombed finish. It also dries very glossy, and smooths itself to lay very flat, virtually eliminating brush lines.

I'm pretty pleased with the final result; it's just a pain in the arse. :)

[Knestis]

http://it2.evaluand.com/gti/images/cleanfloor.jpg

I used brush Rustoleum on the last one (above) but, since the chassis is completely stripped, we're going to have someone who actually knows what they are doing spray the new car inside and out. We are going to color match the interior color to rattlecan Rustoleum white, so we can do the inevitable touch-ups. Another trick I'm doing this time is putting 3M antichip film on high wear places, like where the driver crawls over the door bars.

K

[bldn10]

Gee, what's w/ all the gray? I gather that Ryan wants his interior to go w/ his ext. color scheme - not generic primer gray. Ryan, I assume your interior is black now so I'd go w/ that but not flat; don't worry about glare, you want durability and the glossier the easier to clean. And black is a pretty universal match. IMO paint from a can is the best way on the floor - you can practically pour it on and it will fill all the little cracks and crevices that will still show if you spray it. Just plug any holes

[Matt Rowe]

Originally posted by bldn10@Nov 18 2005, 11:12 AM
Gee, what's w/ all the gray? I gather that Ryan wants his interior to go w/ his ext. color scheme - not generic primer gray. Ryan, I assume your interior is black now so I'd go w/ that but not flat; don't worry about glare, you want durability and the glossier the easier to clean. And black is a pretty universal match. IMO paint from a can is the best way on the floor - you can practically pour it on and it will fill all the little cracks and crevices that will still show if you spray it. Just plug any holes

65855


Bill, you're from Memphis and should know a black exterior is already like an oven on a sunny day, a black interior only makes it worse. :)

The generally accepted idea on color I&#39;ve always heard from "professional" builders is everything in white except flat black when you are trying to hide something clever. White does make it hard to keep clean because it does show any little bit of dirt or imperfection, but that also makes routine maintenance and emergency troublshooting easier. On the interior that&#39;s not usually as much of an issue so light grey is a good compromise in my mind. Oh and about the black thing, I was told there is a reason the rear suspensio/chassis/etc of F1 cars is all flat black, it makes it much harder to see details. Just what I&#39;ve heard. <_<

[Speed Raycer]

Flat black is next to impossible to clean if any kind of oil based fluid hits it.

[tom_sprecher]

Mine came with the interior pained with Rustoleum Hammertone Silver. Looks great, hides everything due to the multile tones of silver and texture and comes in a spray bomb at Home Depot. It seems like some pretty tough paint as it was a bitch trying to scuff it in the door jams when I painted the car. The 3M pad did not want to cut into it.

[Knestis]

Different priorities dictate different strategies but I go with white because I prefer to NOT hide anything. If dirt is less visible on a particular color, so are cracks, fluid drips, dropped bits, or crap that&#39;s going to get blown around the interior when on-track.

I&#39;ve never understood the glare issue. I always seem to be too busy looking out the windshield to have to deal with it. :)

K

[Jeremy Billiel]

What does everyone do with the wiring all over the place? Remove it from the car first or just paint the wiring?

[Geo]

I&#39;m removing mine. Almost out at this point too. I&#39;ll be painting mine soon hopefully.

[Ron Earp]

We used flat black in the last couple of cars we&#39;ve done and it is quite hard to clean. But, we cheat so much that we&#39;ve got to use flat black to hide all the questionable items in the car. :blink:

Next car I do I&#39;m going to try something along the lines of the greys or whites I&#39;ve seen mentioned on this thread. I&#39;ve sort of come to the conclusion, as some of you already knew, that the flat black is simply not very durable and needs constant attention to look decent. Plus, it is hotter than hell on a sunny day!

[joeg]

For wiring, don&#39;t paint it!!

You never know when you will need to trace a problem and OEM color coding on wires is IMPORTANT.

You are probably asking how to mask it before painting. Right?

De-clip and roll it up out of the way (as best you can) and try wrapping the bundle of wires with ALUMINUM FOIL. Works great.

Avoid masking tape.

Cheers.

[bldn10]

Aw just keep it covered. My interior is white now, as is the entire chassis. The question from Ryan is not what WE would paint our cars but what HE should paint his. W/ orange and black exterior and an interior that is already black, I would still go w/ black unless he is going to strip it totally so he can paint everywhere. I can&#39;t imagine why he would want white w/ that color scheme.

[Marcus Miller]

Originally posted by Knestis@Nov 18 2005, 06:34 AM
I used brush Rustoleum on the last one (above) but, since the chassis is completely stripped, we&#39;re going to have someone who actually knows what they are doing spray the new car inside and out. We are going to color match the interior color to rattlecan Rustoleum white, so we can do the inevitable touch-ups. Another trick I&#39;m doing this time is putting 3M antichip film on high wear places, like where the driver crawls over the door bars.

K

65835


I&#39;m with Kirk, white is the way to go.
As a point, GM Fleet white matches Rustoleum white in the spray can.
http://images.miller-motorsports.com/misc072404/th_P7230149.JPG

Marcus, who wishes he had time to paint the interior of the new car, before the 25 hours.

[m glassburner]

This year while I was at heartland park @85 degrees outside,the temperature difference between a white roof and a black one was 9 degrees ..imho that&#39;s a lot !! :119:

[charrbq]

Since my car is white, it was pretty easy. But the interior used to be blue, so I almost got artsy. I tried Krylon spray in white to disappointing results. I used gloss white, but it came out with a rough texture and took forever to remove from the interior of all the glass. Came back with Rustoleum gloss white enamel. It looked great, but now (after 5 years) it needs redoing.
I intend to go back with the same thing, except that this time I&#39;m masking and spraying trunk paint on the high traffic areas...foot wells, etc. I&#39;ve seen a car with that done everywhere. It looked clean, but the paint is heavy and time consuming to apply.
The white is quite a bit cooler, too. In an inclosed car in the south, that&#39;s a big plus. ;)

[BobsAuto]

Originally posted by charrbq@Nov 21 2005, 08:04 PM
Since my car is white, it was pretty easy. But the interior used to be blue, so I almost got artsy. I tried Krylon spray in white to disappointing results. I used gloss white, but it came out with a rough texture and took forever to remove from the interior of all the glass. Came back with Rustoleum gloss white enamel. It looked great, but now (after 5 years) it needs redoing.
I intend to go back with the same thing, except that this time I&#39;m masking and spraying trunk paint on the high traffic areas...foot wells, etc. I&#39;ve seen a car with that done everywhere. It looked clean, but the paint is heavy and time consuming to apply.
The white is quite a bit cooler, too. In an inclosed car in the south, that&#39;s a big plus. ;)

66227



This may sound crazy, but we have been redoing cars and trucks in our boby shop and have found a wonderful paint for the interior and rockers to use as a base to prevent chipping. We&#39;ve been scuffing the old paint, spraying it with truck bed liner, scuffing again (with emery cloth) and spraying it to match the vehicle or a good corresponding color. Using white will help with your heat problem. The truck bed liner covers well and gives you a no slip surface, especially around the footwells in the race car and resists chipping which leads to rust (especially when you race in the rain. Hope this idea helps. BW, comes in spray cans and is not really all that time consuming. :)

[charrbq]

Thanks, Hadn&#39;t thought about that. Isn&#39;t it kinda thick, though. I&#39;m busy removing the undercoating this winter to reduce weight, and replacing it with a thin coat of Rustoleum black.

[JLawton]

The previous owner had done my car with the truck bed liner. It is heavy! And hard to clean if you do get grease or oil on it. Not the prettiest but does stand up well!!

[BobsAuto]

Actually, it&#39;s not that heavy if you spray thin coats (2) and then cover with your favorite color and I would suggest going to the auto parts store and getting a color in the spray bomb section specifically for cars. It&#39;s more durable. And you also have the option of just spraying the foot areas with the truck bed liner, not the entire interior. Just creates a less slippery area for you if you have to bail out quickly (which you should, hopefully, never have to do.)
Again, enjoy...and as was said earlier, it&#39;s all in the prep.

[JimLill]

What is that seemingly ubiquitous very light gray that appears inside and under the hood of so many pro racecars?

[gran racing]

The previous owner had done my car with the truck bed liner. It is heavy!

Hmmm. Maybe a few coats in the trunk would be a good idea to get the weight in the rear? ;)

[Geo]

A question that has been looming for me is how to paint the underside of the roof? I have a gravity feed HVLP gun and I&#39;ve been wondering how I was going to do this. I&#39;ve thought about making a fixture that tilts the cup forward to keep paint flowing with the gun pointed up, but then when I&#39;m through with the roof I&#39;ll have to paint the foor.

Any suggestions?

[seckerich]

Originally posted by Geo@Nov 25 2005, 04:01 PM
A question that has been looming for me is how to paint the underside of the roof? I have a gravity feed HVLP gun and I&#39;ve been wondering how I was going to do this. I&#39;ve thought about making a fixture that tilts the cup forward to keep paint flowing with the gun pointed up, but then when I&#39;m through with the roof I&#39;ll have to paint the foor.

Any suggestions?

66663

Get one of the new paint cups that has disposable bags inside. Very cheap and they will paint upside down with no drips. The cup screws on to your gun. Most paint stores carry them or try Eastwood.

[Geo]

Originally posted by seckerich@Nov 25 2005, 08:19 PM
Get one of the new paint cups that has disposable bags inside. Very cheap and they will paint upside down with no drips. The cup screws on to your gun. Most paint stores carry them or try Eastwood.

66674


Oh cool. Thanks!

[Jiveslug]

Hmmm.... Interesting about the truck liner for the high-traffic areas. I may have to try that. As far as the paint itself, I DO have to worry about heat since I have several races out here in the desert, so I think black is going to be out. Gray sounds like it might be the best option... What about orange to match the exterior of the car? The only problem would be finding an orange color that is readily available for touch ups.

Anyway, thanks for the help guys. Bill, I appreciate your understanding of my asthetic needs. :D Its one thing to be fast... Its another to be fast and look good while doing it. Hehe.

[dave parker]

Originally posted by JimLill@Nov 25 2005, 03:27 PM
What is that seemingly ubiquitous very light gray that appears inside and under the hood of so many pro racecars?

66656


That is the Rustoleum "Hard Hat" Light Machine Gray that was referenced in the first reply to the question.

cheers
"dangerous" dave parker

[bldn10]

"Bill, I appreciate your understanding of my asthetic needs. :D Its one thing to be fast... Its another to be fast and look good while doing it."

Even more important IMO is looking good if you are NOT going fast!

I have always had good looking cars and one reason is that I pick a color scheme in which all colors go together; I don&#39;t even put decals on my car unless they coordinate. I would introduce a silver into your orange and black scheme as a third color, perhaps only in the graphics (numbers, class letters, stripes, etc.). That would look great w/ the orange and black and then you would have a precedent for a silver interior. Then use the orange and black as accents in the interior and you will be stylin&#39; big time. Select the colors from those available in spray cans of touch-up paint and then have your paint mixed in those colors.

[joeg]

Bill- Your car is good looking. I had the same color scheme on my rally car.

[BobsAuto]

Originally posted by Jiveslug@Nov 28 2005, 12:27 PM
Hmmm.... Interesting about the truck liner for the high-traffic areas. I may have to try that. As far as the paint itself, I DO have to worry about heat since I have several races out here in the desert, so I think black is going to be out. Gray sounds like it might be the best option... What about orange to match the exterior of the car? The only problem would be finding an orange color that is readily available for touch ups.



66836


I don&#39;t know if you have a Sanel&#39;s Auto Parts in your area, but here in NH you can order an aerosol can of your paint color when you buy your paint for the car. It takes about a pint of the paint to make the aerosol. It&#39;s great for those quick toughups between bumps and bruises. Also, you can paint your regular color over the truck bed liner after scuffing it with emery. Duplicolor truck bed liner is lighter than plastikote is as it does not have as much of the plastic plymers in it.
Good luck guys.

[bullydog]

uh guys... that bedliner material is FLAMMABLE!!

Professionally applied bedliner stuff will withstand about 250-300 before it delaminates,not sure of the melting point. The stuff-in-a-can is probably similar if a little less heat tolerant. The SIAC is, most probabaly, a solvent based polyurethane.

And it is heavy... the SIAC is probably 70% solids at probably probably 10-13 gal/lb wet. Figure a good gallon on the car, less offers little more protection than paint. If you need the scuff resistance, try some of that SEM or Dupont Chip guard (spray bomb), you can get both under and over the paint.

BTW, if you are sold on the bedliner route, use a urethane based paint (Dupont Nason) to tint it.. Or, I can get a application-designed topcoat for you. (water-based).

Eh_Tony!!!

IMHO, leave the bedliner stuff for the enclosed trailer floor, works great there!!!

[bldn10]

"Bill- Your car is good looking. I had the same color scheme on my rally car."

Thanks. I just added some "view vehicles" including some variations on a previous design that is still my favorite.

[BobsAuto]

uh guys... that bedliner material is FLAMMABLE!!
Thank you. You just prompted me to get the specs on all the paints we use for auto body work. My husband has done it for years and I handle the books and am learning quickly the do&#39;s and don&#39;t&#39;s of the business.
Interesting about that. We have put hot exhaust parts that fell off a 4x4 into the back of our truck with no problems. I thank you for that info.
quote=bullydog,Nov 29 2005, 06:45 PM]

Figure a good gallon on the car, less offers little more protection than paint. !![/quote]

To do just the footwells would take less than a spray can of the bedliner. Maybe 1/4 of a can. In our shop, we use it for the rockers and use less than 2 cans (2 pints) and then use the acrylic enamel over it in the matching or contrasting color the customer wants. It works great. You don&#39;t need to use gallons. Too much is overkill.

quote=bullydog,Nov 29 2005, 06:45 PM]

IMHO, leave the bedliner stuff for the enclosed trailer floor, works great there!!!

66995!![/quote]

Yes, it would be perfect in the trailer, you are right. For a matter of fact, we are going to try it on our wheelchair ramp into our house as that gets terribly slippery in the rain. We&#39;ll let you know how it works. Since we already have the stuff, why not try it?

[charrbq]

The bed liner seems like it would be about the same weight and consistancy as the stuff I took off the floor to begin with. It took weeks, cold weather, hammer, chisel, scrapers, carb cleaners, toluene, acetone, IPA, ventilation, rubber gloves, respirator, chiropractor services, and a partridge in a pear tree to remove. I think I&#39;ll just stick to the fresh white paint and mask off the high traffic areas in trunk paint. It won&#39;t be as heavy, will look good, and improve the grip of my racing slippers on the floor.

[gran racing]

A question about priming the interior - is it important? I&#39;m not talking about bare metal, as I realize that should be primed before painting it.

If a person is spraying the car, priming it really does not take much extra effort or money. But if you do it out of a can...

Just curious what your thoughts are.

[lateapex911]

There are two big reasons to prime...

1- Bare metal requires a primer that inhibits oxidation. Body shops use etching primers on bare metals, then go to sandable primers.

2- Sealing and adhesion. Top coats adhere to primer better, and certain primers have sealing properties. In body work, the previous history of the cars paint can be unknown, and there can be some incompatable paints down there that could cause issues with the new paints, so primer/sealers are used. If smoothness is an issue, then a primer/surfacer could be used over that. Then color and clear.

Thats the proper way...

In the spray can world, it really isn&#39;t that important. Test a small are if you decide to go without a primer. Look for weird "fisheyes"..areas where the paint has adhesion and flowout troubles. It looks like...fisheyes..duh! ...or crazing ...or wrinkling or just weirdness. It could be caused by wax, grease, or the dreaded silicones from earlier products that are in the paints structure. Use a good degreaser ("PreKleeno" is the R&M version...or any real paint cleaner..NAPA sells one that&#39;s fine) first, of course, and buff the shine off with a green or red scotch brite pad and you should be fine without a primer.

If you do all that, and you still get "fisheyes"...it could be embedded silicones, and that could mean that you have to go all the way to bare metal. It&#39;s rare, and I doubt you care that much, LOL.
;)

(If anyone has seen Dave&#39;s car (which I will point out was the highest finshing Prelude in ITB at the ARRCs) you know why fisheyes in the interior won&#39;t cause him a loss of sleep!)

[gran racing]

Here I was reading your reply and thinking that this was great information, then...highest finishing Prelude?!? :bash_1_: Oh, that&#39;s messed up! Hey, it was really pretty at one point. When I did the bodyshop sponsor deal, I brought the car home and didn&#39;t even want to race it anymore.

Ah, you&#39;re so jealous Jake!! My Dupli-color and bondo heart goes out to ya.

[Conover]

I was over at RCR last week nosing around, and I noticed that they paint all thier interiors either White or grey gloss, and use black wrinkle paint on areas that could be sources of glare, rear hat tray, dash, A-pillar bars, and so-on. I think that the wrinkle paint is probably more cleanable than plain flat black.

[BobsAuto]

I&#39;ll just stick to the fresh white paint and mask off the high traffic areas in trunk paint. It won&#39;t be as heavy, will look good, and improve the grip of my racing slippers on the floor.

67089
[/quote]

The trunk paint is also available in a wrinkle paint which is also good in high traffic areas. I saw mention of getting an orange that could be easily matched. Nason puts out a great industrial acrylic enamel....easy to use, shines really good, pretty chip resistant and comes in a state orange color used on the state vehicles here in NH. It is also economical and can be also put in the aerosol cans as I mentioned before. :happy204:

[Jiveslug]

Originally posted by Bob&#39;sAuto@Dec 13 2005, 03:28 PM
I&#39;ll just stick to the fresh white paint and mask off the high traffic areas in trunk paint.

67089


Yeah, thats kind of what I was thinking. Ill probably do the interior of the car a lightish grey color and then put some grippy stuff down in the footwell area (and any others that see high traffic). Thanks for the help everyone!

Ryan

[cpa7man]

Originally posted by lateapex911@Dec 12 2005, 01:23 AM
There are two big reasons to prime...

1- Bare metal requires a primer that inhibits oxidation. Body shops use etching primers on bare metals, then go to sandable primers.

2- Sealing and adhesion. Top coats adhere to primer better, and certain primers have sealing properties. In body work, the previous history of the cars paint can be unknown, and there can be some incompatable paints down there that could cause issues with the new paints, so primer/sealers are used. If smoothness is an issue, then a primer/surfacer could be used over that. Then color and clear.

Thats the proper way...


67892


I&#39;m building a car now as well, I&#39;ve been looking in on this thread from time to time. Very good info, but I&#39;m a paint moron.

I&#39;m going to soda blast, so I&#39;ll have bare metal. That light grey or a white sounds good for the interior. I&#39;ll need to spray the entire car and a full set of fiberglass fenders, I and was going to use an HPLV sprayer. My questions:
What primer would you recommend? (epoxy or ??, brand)
Then should I spray the interior with a different paint type?

The car will be professionally painted (I think) after the cage is installed and I mount the fiberglass.

[bldn10]

"full set of fiberglass fenders"

I hope you are talking about a prod car not IT.

[joeg]

I use Glasurit epoxy and their 22 line for single stage top coats of exterior surfaces.

Good paint; ex$pensive paint--especially all the hardners and reducers.

I would avoid blasting the interior unless the car is already stripped to a bare shell.

It&#39;s too much of a mess to clean up otherwise.


I would just scuff the interior paint (assuming you have removed all carpeting, tar, glue, etc.), etch or epoxy spot prime any bare metal and go right to top coat--Krylon is fine!

[cpa7man]

Originally posted by joeg@Jan 26 2006, 04:08 PM
I use Glasurit epoxy and their 22 line for single stage top coats of exterior surfaces.

Good paint; ex$pensive paint--especially all the hardners and reducers.

I would avoid blasting the interior unless the car is already stripped to a bare shell.

It&#39;s too much of a mess to clean up otherwise.
I would just scuff the interior paint (assuming you have removed all carpeting, tar, glue, etc.), etch or epoxy spot prime any bare metal and go right to top coat--Krylon is fine!

72291


Thanks for the reply, yes car is stripped nothing left except pedals and steering wheel. Yes the car will be an EP car, my last one had a little mishap.

[JLawton]

Originally posted by bldn10@Jan 26 2006, 10:40 AM
"full set of fiberglass fenders"


72277



I was wondering when that was gonna come up?

DUCK AND COVER!!!