CIS Issues

[JamesB]

Ok so I have the motor into the car and everything running. I set the timing at 12degrees and went on to set my fuel enrichment. I hooked up the harness, set my meter to the 200mA range and I am getting a reading of 20.35. This is well out of the 1-16mA spec.

So far I have heard check the O2 sensor. But I went sniffing around and the only thing I found is if the O2 is bad that it wouldn't swing around. However, noone mentions what would happen if its reading out of spec as to what to check next.

This car is supposed to be on the track on Friday for its shakedown and right now unless I can figure out what is going on, I dont know if I will have that chance.

I could use as much help and suggestions as I can get right now.

[dave parker]

James
Only 12 degrees advance? We used to set my Golf at 28 degrees advance.
Call if you have more questions.
cheers
dave parker
wdcr ITC#97

[JamesB]

Well till I can either dyno tune or know where the car sits the last thing I want is to toast the motor before school. I am hoping to budget a little dyno tuning to find the best of all.

But any idea why I am getitng a 20.35 mA reading on the enrichments?

[racer14itc]

Originally posted by dave parker@Oct 11 2005, 03:42 PM
James
Only 12 degrees advance? We used to set my Golf at 28 degrees advance.
Call if you have more questions.
cheers
dave parker
wdcr ITC#97

62287


Hey Dave, I like the avatar! :023:

MC

[dave parker]

Mark
I thought you would. Since I am too computer challenged to figure out how to make my own I figured I would just use yours.

Besides it does look very similar to my own car in one of my favorite places to pass at Summit Point.

cheers
dave parker
wdcr ITC#97

[JamesB]

and then youll have to figure out how to change it next year when the golf is out there huh?

Ok, I got an O2 sensor I am picking up on the way home, its the bosch real deal. I will hopefully find an O2 bung so I can move it to the collector (right now its on the #4 of the header) But even then 1 cyl is better then none.

After that I will check the DPR readings and see if they changed. I could just need to really richen things up, I don't know. I would feel so much better then to get out on the track friday for the first time in the car only to find out something is wrong and kills my chances of having a car for the school.

[pfcs]

james-your posts imply that you know this, so don't think I'm discounting you.
20 mA is the lean running enrichment limit for CIS-E. Either the fuel distributor needs a big adjustment in the rich direction until this comes down into the 10mA region and starts ranging or there is a problem. If you unplug the sensor, the current should default to 10mA. If it does, try adjusting CO w/it connected-see if you can get it into spec. If it doesn't, measure the reference voltage of the oxygen sensor circuit into the ECU-disconnect the sensor from the large male connector, and check the voltage of that male connector and a good ground connection on the engine (valvecover stud). You should see less than .6V; anything more than that is a problem and probably caused by a resistive or absent ground circuit between the ECU and the engine, which will cause the ECU to track to it's full (20mA) stop. If the reference voltage is OK, you can confirm that the ECU responds to a signal by grounding that connector (the ECU will see a lean signal and increase the current to counter it, adding fuel) or, holding the connector in one hand, grab the positive terminal of the battery, driving the current the other way to zero. If the reference voltage is too high, it will still respond the same way to this test, but still won't work properly with the sensor connected, you'll need to find the grounding problem and fix it before proceding. (try watching the reference voltage while disturbing the wiring-when you improve a ground fault, you'll see the reference voltage drop to .5v or so). if the reference voltage is OK, the system goes to 10mA w/o oxygen sensor connected, and richening the airflow meter (turn clockwise) doesn't bring the current down, you need a new sensor.
ps: the only reason I'd want to have my sensor working would be so I could have a starting point for tuning. You must also be sure that the full throttle switch is working-that w/oxs disconnected, engine warm, DPR @10mA, that when you close the full throttle switch, the current jumps up (between 2 and 5 mA as I recall-depends on which ECU you have-1.8 16V preferred) You'll certainly need to adjust the thing quite rich without any (illegal?) fuel enrichment device. Having a functional oxygen sensor will also be helpful to compensate for that richness when you're off full throttle or idling. Hope this helps. regarding timing-12* is a little overadvanced if stock advance is working, and 18* too little if you are checking at full advance.