Installing crash bolts on a 2nd Gen RX7

[Sphinx]

Can anyone tell me how/where they go? My car has some nasty camber in the rear wheels that I need to try and zero out.

[C. Ludwig]

Originally posted by Sphinx@Aug 22 2005, 03:27 PM
Can anyone tell me how/where they go? My car has some nasty camber in the rear wheels that I need to try and zero out.

58821



You can't use crash bolts in the rear of an FC. There are two ways to adjust rear camber. One is with installation of a single "camber rod". It's the vertical piece at the center rear of the subframe that attaches between the subframe and the unibody. You can buy adjustable replacements through the aftermarket. Shorten it to add negative camber or lengthen it to take out camber. The other solution is what Mazdatrix sells and I believe AWR manufactures. They are two individual adjusters that replace the forward toe links that locate the inside point of the trailing arm. Check out mazdatrix.com for these pieces.

[Sphinx]

Originally posted by C. Ludwig@Aug 22 2005, 07:44 PM
You can't use crash bolts in the rear of an FC. There are two ways to adjust rear camber. One is with installation of a single "camber rod". It's the vertical piece at the center rear of the subframe that attaches between the subframe and the unibody. You can buy adjustable replacements through the aftermarket. Shorten it to add negative camber or lengthen it to take out camber. The other solution is what Mazdatrix sells and I believe AWR manufactures. They are two individual adjusters that replace the forward toe links that locate the inside point of the trailing arm. Check out mazdatrix.com for these pieces.

58823



Are you sure about that? Several companies sell them online.

Here's one, for instance:
http://www.obxracingsports.com/performance...D=4&subCat2ID=3 (http://www.obxracingsports.com/performance.cfm?catid=3&subCatID=4&subCat2ID=3)

[C. Ludwig]

Originally posted by Sphinx@Aug 22 2005, 04:15 PM
Are you sure about that? Several companies sell them online.

Here's one, for instance:
http://www.obxracingsports.com/performance...D=4&subCat2ID=3 (http://www.obxracingsports.com/performance.cfm?catid=3&subCatID=4&subCat2ID=3)

58828


Quite.


You need this...http://www.mazdatrix.com/pictures/h-susp/2cambrod.jpg

Or these...http://www.mazdatrix.com/pictures/h-susp/2camblinks.jpg

They can be ordered here...http://www.mazdatrix.com/h6_86-92.htm Which is probably not the cheapest place to get those parts but it's a start.

[bldn10]

"Shorten it to add negative camber or lengthen it to take out camber."

Chris, isn't that backwards?

ISC used to make the individual pieces but I found that they had too much slop in them. That was years ago so they may be different now if Mike still makes them.

Are you going to be at the next M-O event? Got that engine fixed?

[C. Ludwig]

Originally posted by bldn10@Aug 23 2005, 10:02 AM
"Shorten it to add negative camber or lengthen it to take out camber."

Chris, isn't that backwards?

ISC used to make the individual pieces but I found that they had too much slop in them. That was years ago so they may be different now if Mike still makes them.

Are you going to be at the next M-O event? Got that engine fixed?

58883



Don't think that's backward but I've been wrong before.

The "get me through the rest of the year" engine went together yesterday. I'm guessing it won't be as strong but I'll be racing. Was just cutting the time too close on getting everything together for a top shelf engine. So that will wait for a winter project. Going to Grattan Labor Day weekend. Will wait to see how things go there before I decide on Mid-Ohio.

[Chris Wire]

Originally posted by C. Ludwig@Aug 23 2005, 10:20 AM
Don't think that's backward but I've been wrong before.


Actually, if you shorten the rod, you raise the rear of the subframe, which draws up the inside mount of the trailing arm thus removing negative camber.

Several tuners make the adjustment rod. All I did was have ISC sell me the bushings which adapt the AM-10 rod ends I have to the mounting bolts. I also used a readily available aluminum tube, like the one below, and a camber link was born. Saved about $40 bucks in the process.

http://www.colemanracing.com/catalog/images/pn638.jpg