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View Full Version : What do I look for in a trailer???



Newbie
12-15-2004, 12:01 AM
Hi all,

I bought a 2nd gen ITS RX-7 and now I need a trailer. Can somebody please tell me what I want!!!!

I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Montero Sport with the tow setup that is supposedly good for 5000 lbs. I think I'll need a brake set up to accomodate the trailer brakes. I assume an open trailer costs less, is lighter and has better wind resistance. I also assume I'll need a tire rack. What else am I missing, and about how much do these cost new or used?

My next car (wife's hand me down) is the Volvo SUV with the twin turbo engine. I could always get the hitch set up for that if the Montero is too wimpy.

Oh yea, I'm not planning on driving more than 2 hours away, but that may change as I get more into it.

Happy Holidays,

Steve

Newbie
12-15-2004, 12:05 AM
One more thing, what length should I get?

joeg
12-15-2004, 09:15 AM
Whatever you get it should have tandem axles and excellent electric brakes.

I like aluminum open trailers because you can swing them around fairly easily.

Unfortunately, they can be quite exspensive.

A winch is nice too.

its66
12-15-2004, 09:20 AM
Steve,
Get a low trailer or be prepared to have some really long ramp. My trailer is 18 feet long on the deck, with a dove tail and brakes. I added a tire rack (dont' let the wife tell you that a welder is a waste of money) for about $50 in metal. Did I mention to maek sure the trailer is LOW. The SpeedSource style splitter/airdam won't clear a trailer like mine with the standard 4-5 foot ramps. Not even with raising the tongue of the trailer. I had to build some ramp extensions that make my ramps 10 feet long. If you are coming down to pick the car up, this will make life much easier when you arrive. Imagine arrive to pick up the car only to realize that you can't get it on the trailer. (That is a story to be shared only over a few beers though) http://Forum.ImprovedTouring.com/it/smile.gif

Be easy with the Montero. It has a relatively short wheelbase, so it might be a little less stable when towing.

I found that most of the used open trailers in our area were almost the same price as a new one. And they usually needed wiring or tires or both. I paid $1300 for mine, but that was 5 years ago. at the time, most used ones were around $850-$1000, depending on the work they needed.

Are you having the car delivered, or driving to pick it up? If driving to get it, try to find a trailer to buy near the car. Towing an empty trailer long distance sucks.

Jim

planet6racing
12-15-2004, 10:10 AM
With a towing capacity of 5000#, you'll definitely want to look at the aluminum trailers. My 20' steel open trailer is listed at ~2500#, plus my car is 2350#, which doesn't leave much room for all the other stuff that goes with!

I bought my trailer from Johnson Trailer in Colfax, WI. They had, by far, the best deals I found for new trailers. If you'd like their information (no website that I know of), I can happily get it for you.

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Bill
Planet 6 Racing
bill (at) planet6racing (dot) com

Greg Gauper
12-15-2004, 10:51 AM
One other minor detail, but it's more of a convenience issue, and easily overlooked....

Try to get a trailer with the deck high enough so that the car doors can open and clear the wheel wells when it's sitting on the trailer. Saves you having to crawl in and out the window when loading the car.....

nlevine
12-15-2004, 10:59 AM
Originally posted by Newbie:
I think I'll need a brake set up to accomodate the trailer brakes.

Absolutely, and also think about a load-distributing hitch set-up as well. When I towed with a Jeep Grand Cherokee (another somewhat short-wheelbase tow vehicle), I found that the load bars helped tremendously with towing stability.

-noam

B Schley
12-15-2004, 11:08 AM
Steve-
I HIGHLY recommend a load leveling hitch. My first two years I towed with my Jeep Cherokee. It is similiar to the Montero in wheel base and tow rating. Before the hitch, I had to really make sure the trailer was loaded evenly (remember I was only towing a CRX). I figured with my steel trailer, job box for storage, and car, I was towing about 4500 lbs. The hitch made a world of difference. You could go 70 mph down Interstate 43 to Blackhawk with only one hand on the wheel. Before the load leveler, the Jeep was all over the place. Towing also puts alot of strain on that size platform. I finally said screw it and bought a year old Excursion in the spring of 2003 and thats my current tow vehicle. I agree with the previous posts. Get something low, with long ramps and a tail that is angled down rather than flat for easier loading and unloading. I have a winch, actually a boat winch, that we bolted to the front of my trailer. It makes life so much easier, especially if the unthinkable happens on the track, and the car can't be driven on the trailer. Definately go with an open trailer, and Greg makes a great point about being able to open the car doors over the trailer fenders. Hope this helps.
--Bill

bldn10
12-15-2004, 01:30 PM
Steve, I second Jim's warning - the SS splitter can be a real problem. I bought a 14'+ 2' dovetail because it fits in a standard garage but I'm not sure that the dovetail helps in this situation because the point where it angles down becomes a "high center." I suggest measuring the angle of the splitter to the tire and making sure that your combination of trailer and ramps will achieve that angle. It may well be that a flat trailer and long ramps is the best way to go. Like Jim, I built some stepped extensions and they work OK.

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Bill Denton
87/89 ITS RX-7
02 Audi TT225QC
95 Tahoe
Memphis

Newbie
12-15-2004, 07:29 PM
Thanks Guys,

I'll be back with more questions after I digest these answeres.

Steve

racer_tim
12-15-2004, 08:21 PM
Steve, with what Greg said about the drivers side fender, I just build up a little 2x8x14 ramps with a plastic chauk attached to it, so I have something to "aim" for while driving the car on the trailer, and with the added 4" on the left front, the door clears the fender. If I were to do it again, I would run a 10-12 foot of 2x8 along that entire side of the trailer. Who cars if the car is "crooked" when it's on the trailer.

Just remember not to mount the tire rack too far forward. When it's full of tires, you might be overloading your tongue weight limitations of either the trailer of the hitch.

As far as load leving hitches, I don't need one. I tow with a Dodge 2500 4x4 club cab, short bed Turbo Diesel. When the truck is loaded with tools, parts, etc. and the trailer is loaded with the car, tires, and everyting, the ride height is PERFECTLY level, with the front and the rear of the truck. hehehe

I just hope that you don't have to tow over my big mountains, with either the Montero or the Jeep. Going up is hard, but coming down is even more difficult.

------------------
Tim Linerud
San Francisco Region SCCA
#95 GP Wabbit
http://linerud.myvnc.com/racing/index.html

[This message has been edited by racer_tim (edited December 15, 2004).]

JLawton
12-16-2004, 08:25 AM
One issue that's not mention above is brakes on your tow vehicle. You are going to be VERY close to max for your capacity. Yes, a load leveling hitch will help it ride better, you may have enough power to pull it, but you also need to be able to stop in an emergency situation.

I have a Ford Super Crew with 4 wheel "dinner plate" sized rotors and have scared the sh*t out of myself when trying to stop quick. Of course, I shouldn't be drafting at 80 mph on the highway!! http://Forum.ImprovedTouring.com/it/biggrin.gif

There's a reason they set the tow capacity at 5000 lbs...........

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Jeff L
#74 ITB GTi

apr67
12-16-2004, 01:24 PM
No such thing as a load leveling hitch.

But a weight distrbuting hitch does exist. And they are quite helpful. They allow you to transfer some of the toung weight to the front of your tow vehicle. This helps a lot with braking and steering.

Most WD hitches also have adjustable height ball mounts so you can get the trailer level.

Put the weight of the tires up front on the trailer, and the car may need to be further back in order to keep the toung weight right. I bought an 18' without dove tail. That allows me do put the car pretty much anywhere I need it on the trailer. And if the toung is running really high, I put the car on backwards.

I used to worry about overall weight when I towed with my Dakota V6. The more I put in the bed of the truck, the better it tows. I would imagine the same will be true for you. Load up the tow vehicle as much as you can.

B Schley
12-16-2004, 07:06 PM
I apologize for using the incorrect term, I meant WEIGHT DISTRIBUTING hitch. Just a matter of sematics, I think it was understood what I was driving at as far as helping to redistribute tongue weight.
--Bill

Newbie
12-17-2004, 01:36 AM
So what kind of car cover do I need since my car does not have windows???

x-ring
12-17-2004, 10:01 AM
To cover your car while towing? I don't think I'd try that. I made a lexan insert for my drivers window that I used for towing when it might rain. A couple if 'dzus' fasteners on tabs welded to the top of the door hold it in place.

It's also handy to pop in when you are parked in the paddock and the weather goes bad. Quicker than putting the car in the trailer.


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Ty Till
#16 ITS
Rocky Mountain Division

apr67
12-17-2004, 10:30 AM
Originally posted by B Schley:
I apologize for using the incorrect term, I meant WEIGHT DISTRIBUTING hitch. Just a matter of sematics
--Bill

Bill, a little too much coffee today?

I just wanted to correct the term so that if you go to buy one you get a WD hitch and not just an adjustable ball hitch.

B Schley
12-17-2004, 10:59 AM
APR 67-
This is what I hate about e-mail/message board posting. I didn't mean to sound like a jerk, but it came off that way in print. You are correct on the proper term for that hitch, I was technically wrong. Come to think of it, I did have kind of a lousy day at work yesterday, so I was in a bit of a touchy mood.
--Bill

bldn10
12-17-2004, 12:48 PM
"my car does not have windows"

Unless I've missed out on something, you have to have the passenger side window permanently in.

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Bill Denton
87/89 ITS RX-7
02 Audi TT225QC
95 Tahoe
Memphis

x-ring
12-17-2004, 06:03 PM
...you have to have the passenger side window permanently in.



But it doesn't have to work. It would be pretty hard to talk me into replacing a bad window motor in the right side door of my race car, particularly since I travel in an enclosed trailer.


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Ty Till
#16 ITS
Rocky Mountain Division

67ITB
12-18-2004, 12:15 AM
Steve,

One thing that I haven’t seen mentioned is storage of ramps.
You want them to be as close (convenient) to the tail of the trailer as possible
And also they should have a positive means of securing them to the trailer, for both traveling and loading un-loading of the vehicle.
I have seen people just lay them flat on the trailer deck and could only imagine what would happen in an accident

A few years back I lost one on the (un-named) Highway and I don’t know what was worse, trying to find a replacement for it or the fact that I probably ruined someone’s day

jc836
12-18-2004, 05:14 AM
Our experience has been with an R&R aluminum trailer behind an '03 Dakota 4.7 with full tow package. The open trailer is a good choice for me even though this one is actually 20' of deck and dovetail. The ramps are 5' and act as a front airdam. I still find that a pair of 2'x8'x6' extensions are best for our CRX. I don't have an airdam on the car but assume that all will be fine unless it is ground touching http://Forum.ImprovedTouring.com/it/smile.gif. Keep in mind the price of trailers has gone up a lot since I bought mine. The price of both steel and aluminum is one issue to think about.
Towing a 1300Lb trailer w 2100Lb car has been a lot of fun. No real surprises except one. Dodge built the truck with a HD package that actually does not have the correct spring rates in the rear for the load capacity the is listed. They even refuse to retrofit the Durango springs. The truck is rated for 6010 and we are not at the limit when the car is loaded and the bed filled. Remember that we are talking overall GVRW not just tongue and bed weights. The size of the trailer has actually ben abenefit and if you can house one this long you will find that it helps with distribution at the tongue a lot better than a 14-16 will. Then again you can do a load distribution hitch. Not to be long winded-but I agree that brakes and a quality controller for both axles is very important. The truck brakes should also be capable of doing their job under the load imposed. I have several acquaintances who tow box trailers with Durangos and Jeeps. They have done a few things to make it easy and safe. I'm not sure about your Montero. If it is comparable to a Ranger then you should seriously consider an aluminum trailer in a length for the RX-7 or 1 size longer at most.
THese thoughts are based on our towing to both The Glen and Pocono along with trips (1 hour) to BeaveRun. Mid Ohio is no more difficult than BeaveRun. The hills here will slow you down, so keep that in mind if you have to traverse like we do.
Final thought-I agree that a winch (we have a Superwinch and battery) is very useful and also helps hold the car on the trailer (aux tiedown point). If you price an R&R or TrailerWorld aluminum trailer and their resale values you will be pleasantly surprised. BriMar is a good choice for steel if new.
Happy holidays



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Grandpa's toys-modded suspensions and a few other tweaks
'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA #99
'99 Prelude=a sweet song
'03 Dodge Dakota Club Cab V8-Patriot Blue gonna tow