View Full Version : kill switch

chuck baader
04-20-2001, 06:54 PM
how about eliminating the alternator feedback and being able to kill the motor with the kill switch. thought i had it figured out, but was not running alt. suggestions??? thanks, chuck

James Clay
04-23-2001, 10:16 AM
Easy solution. There are two wires going to the battery - one small and one large. Use a 4 pole switch and cut both, job done.

chuck baader
04-23-2001, 03:06 PM
ok, ring up one DUH!!!! for me. one more question. have kill switch with auxillary contacts on bottom. have no idea the amperage capacity of said contacts. do you think this type of switch will work? thanks, chuck

James Clay
04-23-2001, 03:15 PM
I don't blame you - kind of surprising that it is that simple. Thank the good folks in Germany for that one. I have no idea what your switch will hold. We use the Longacre switches (no key to lose version), 4 polse have 2 big terminals and two small - one big wire and one small - haven't blown one yet!

chuck baader
04-23-2001, 04:12 PM
james, thanks, just finished..btw, called longacre week before last, they do not carry kill switches (anymore?). bummer (as opposed to bimmer) http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/smile.gif chuck

chuck baader
04-25-2001, 07:48 PM
james, checked function once again, kill switch works fine, but ignition switch will not kill motor. am i missing something? thanks, chuck....????

James Clay
04-26-2001, 09:29 AM
Shouldn't be an issue if done correctly. Switch closed, car functions as if no switch is present. Switch open - no electronics. Possibly another issue?

chuck baader
04-26-2001, 07:10 PM
james....am not running cluster! jumpered wire numbers 14/16 on blue connector (C1) to entergize alternator field, and motor continues to run. when i plug in cluster, all is well. will try to isolate resistor on circuit board this weekend and see if that works...thanks, chuck

chuck baader
04-26-2001, 09:15 PM
ok guys, finally figured out the proper procedure..on C1, the blue connector in back of the cluster, you must jumper terminals 14 and 16 with a DIODE!!! then the ignition and master kill switch work as they should, and by the way, so does the alt. 20 hours later and we have a solution. that is what makes building race cars sooooooo much fun!!!chuck

06-08-2003, 09:10 PM
So, if I understand this correctly, using one of the disconnects with alternator protection, you use the large poles for the battery cable, one set of small poles for the small wire, and the otherr set to wire the resistor? Excuse the ignorance. Mechanical makes more sense....Electrical seems more like magic to me. Thanks.


chuck baader
06-09-2003, 08:12 AM
damn, kent, two years ago and i'm supposed to remember http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/smile.gif the big wire obviously goes to the big terminal and then directly to the starter. the smaller switch is used to switch all other functions. if you use the stock cluster, the alternator,etc will work fine. if you do not use the stock cluster, see post above and use a Schotsky diode between the wire numbers listed for correct alternator function. btw, i am a mechanical engineer..electical is mostly beyond me. i was always taught that cars ran on smoke...when the smoke escaped, the car wouldn'g run http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/smile.gif if you don't have one, go to your local bmw dealer and buy the wireing book for your year modle..INVALUABLE..even i could figure out the problem..

Chuck Baader
Alabama Region Assistant Race Chair, Registrar

06-09-2003, 06:15 PM
<font face=\"Verdana, Arial\" size=\"2\">We use the Longacre switches (no key to lose version), 4 polse have 2 big terminals and two small - one big wire and one small - haven't blown one yet!</font>[/b]

James you are talking about the Longacre part number 4578 Battery disconnect switch only - 4 terminal?