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View Full Version : Gear Lube in trans, Brake pad replacement



Newbie
04-12-2005, 11:36 PM
I need some help again...I already bought a Hayden manual on ebay, buy it's not here yet. I've got a track day at Road America on Saturday and I'm doing a few things I need some info on.

I'm trying to refill the trans fluid, and I'm wondering if I'm trying to refill it at the right spot. I'm assuming it is the square bold on the drivers side above the starter. It's pretty hard to get a squeeze bottle of gear oil in there, and when I do, it does not want to take very much (4 oz max.). Is this the wrong fill spot, or is there something I'm doing wrong?

The other is a basic on brake pad replacement...my rear pads need replacing. I have extra Hawk blues that came with the car. I've done brake pads on a BMW, but it's probably not the same. Are there guide bolts that need to be torqued after removal? Can anyone send me a link to a web page that can walk me throught it?

Thanks,

Newbie

MaxEnergy
04-13-2005, 08:01 AM
Yes that square headed plug is the fill. And no you can't really do it with just the bottle. Easiest cheapest approach if you have no help is picking up a plastic $5-10 oil transfer pump (from autozone or pepboy type place) and pump it right in until it comes out that same hole. If you have help you can get a hose long enough to get a gravity feed while standing at the side of the car. Push the hose on the pointed spout and have your helper turn the bottle upsidedown while he tries to keep the hose pressed on the end of the bottle. You put the hose in the tranny and watch for the back flow. The car needs to be level. If you overfill it because the hose you are using fits too tightly in the tranny hole let it drain for awhile into pan then I like to but a bit of nonhardening permatex on the threads to keep it from seeping.

The pads are simple just remove the wire retainers and pull the pins and the pads come right out with a little prying then assuming the new pads are less worn you will have to push the pistons back in the caliper with a flat object. I like to use the old pad and make sure you push both pistons at the same time or one will push out when you push the other in. Pushing them in will displace fluid into your master cylinder, overflowing it making a mess if it is full already (siphon some out if necessary). Do not open the bleed valve to push the piston back into the caliper as you stand the chance of introducing air into the system. Blead the brakes all the way around starting with the right rear, left rear, right front and left front eventhough it may not need it just to get some fresher fluid near the caliper where it gets the most abuse from heat etc. Much easier than the BMW (I have both).

I like to mark the compound and original location of the pads on the back of the pad incase it can or needs to be used down the road.

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Jamie Kekeisen
86 ITS RX-7 NER
92 325IS under construction