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Skid
07-02-2003, 12:29 PM
Past posts have referred to a MazdaComp roller bearing pilot bushing (i.e. the one housed in the clutch and which accepts the transmission input shaft). MazdzaComp says they have no such part other than the stock solid bushing.

Is this true or if not, can anyone give me a specific part number for this piece that I can refer them to?

Where otherwise does one source the roller bearing version?

Thanks.

bcarter
07-02-2003, 01:08 PM
Hey Skid, ya gotta use the Stock part in CC...

------------------
G. Brooke Carter
Wheat Buckley Racing
# 10 Challenge Car
2002 Class Champion
Calgary, Alberta

Skid
07-02-2003, 01:19 PM
More.... When asked about the "pilot bushing", MazdaComp refers me to part number N326-11-D03 Needle Bearing (this is D-code 114031 on diagram 1100A-1 on the Parts Catalog on the MazdzComp site). Is this the correct part and if so is there something better than than stock for replacement?

My problem is finding false neutrals too often when shifting to 3rd at high rpms.

Thanks again.

joeg
07-02-2003, 01:43 PM
Gee ...every rotary I remember taking apart had that needle bearing pilot bushing...

Skid
07-02-2003, 01:59 PM
Maybe I'm misinformed then (2nd gen advice on a 1st gen car?) and just need to inspect and replace the original.

Could someone confirm that this bearing, worn or poorly greased, could be the culprit on the shifting-to-3rd problem -- i.e. keeps clutch from releasing completely at high rpm?

Thanks

noresull
07-02-2003, 05:02 PM
The pilot bushing/bearing isn't going to prevent the clutch from disengaging, rather it will not allow the input shaft to spin at a different speed the flywheel if the shaft is binding or hanging up inside the bearing.

It could cause shift concerns, but usually throughout all the gears, not just one gear.

bcarter
07-02-2003, 09:04 PM
Hey Skid, I have the same problem with those high rpm shifts into third, I think we all do. My transmission is brand new, and it still happens. I have been told that the synchros are just too slow for the shift into third at 7500 - 8000. Gotta just take your time on the shift.

------------------
G. Brooke Carter
Wheat Buckley Racing
# 10 Challenge Car
2002 Class Champion
Calgary, Alberta

noresull
07-02-2003, 10:40 PM
Well, I pit for the guy on here, benracing, and He has a used trans and it shifts the same. Of course His reason for keeping it smooth is that He was told, sometimes slow is faster. http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/smile.gif Not sure how that works yet but We'll get more experience and be able to tell more than!

http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/smile.gif

pgipson
07-03-2003, 12:06 AM
Maybe you're thinking of the transmission tailshaft bushing that you can replace (not IT) I think that is a roller bearing.

moto62
07-03-2003, 01:49 AM
Originally posted by Skid:
More.... When asked about the "pilot bushing", MazdaComp refers me to part number N326-11-D03 Needle Bearing (this is D-code 114031 on diagram 1100A-1 on the Parts Catalog on the MazdzComp site). Is this the correct part and if so is there something better than than stock for replacement?

That part # is indeed correct for the pilot(needle) bearing.


Originally posted by Skid:
My problem is finding false neutrals too often when shifting to 3rd at high rpms.
Thanks again.

Unless there is a problem inside the tranny such as a loose shift fork or a worn bearing on the main shaft, you just have to make sure you are positive on your shifting. In other words...stuff it in there. http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/smile.gif
Ray

Allen Brown
07-03-2003, 09:51 AM
Skid, Brooke,

I don't have any of those issues....Oh ya..I never go into 2nd. Throw in some 4.88's...hah!

Tak
07-03-2003, 01:23 PM
A completely failed pilot bushing can lock the input shaft to the eccentric shaft. Been there, done that. It will cause problems on EVERY shift though, not just 2-3. I suspect you have the typical rx-7 tranny problem. Consider running Redline MTL or equivelent. These are actually inferior lubricants that help the synchros work better. Monitor the tranny oil and drain bolt magent when you change oil. If you see more than brass powder, start shopping.

One big caution on the pilot bearing--they are VERY, VERY hard to remove. Mazda has a special tool just for this--do NOT try to use a regular pilot bearing puller! (and yes, I learned that one the hard way too...)

Tachi
#29 ITA SFR