6 port actuators

[Quickshoe]

Here's the scoop. I am helping out a new Group5 Rally team. 3 events and they got their first win this last weekend! I am new to 13B 6-ports so here are my questions:

Should I wire the 6 port actuators open?

The motor will spend very little time below 5000 rpm.

They currently do not function as the exhaust does not have a pressure tube thingy.

Due to time constraints and other higher priorities with the car, we have not removed the intake manifold to verify that they are even in there.

If they have been removed by previous owner, are there any intake manifold mods required, that perhaps were not done?

I suspect that they have been removed as this motor seems to be seriously down on power at low and mid-range. It has a restricitve exhaust system (#1 on priority list) and had no poop up top either.

Thanks for your help. What do the ITS guys do?

[7racing]

I ran a 6 port 13b in a GSL-SE for 1 year. We wired the ports open all the time. Makes no difference on low end, but does seem to help out in the high-end. I noticed a difference at about 6000rpm. Since you mention that the motor never runs below 5000, wire them open.

There should be a specific intake to utilize the 6-port. It's been a long time (6 years?), so I don't remember. We used the stock intake for IT, so it was whatever was used on an 85 RX7 GSL-SE.

Jeremy

[Allen Brown]

I run a GSL-SE...I've removed the actuators and 6 port sleeves. I can't say I noticed too much difference when I made that change. Slightly less pull below 5000-5500 rpm but it doesn't pull past 8000 rpm. But this is probably more of a function of how bloody small ports and the restrictive air flow meter!!

------------------
Allen Brown
#36 IT1
[email protected]

[Karl Bocchieri]

Take the lower intake manifold off completely and remove the accuators. then remove the mechanism from the manifold and punch out the brass sleeves. These sit in the airflow path so removing them would seem to help reduce turbulance. Remove the sleeves from the engine and throw them away. You will be left with a lower manifold that has 2 holes where the accuators went through to move the sleeves, you can plug these with J&B weld and 2 dimes. They make perfect size plugs, glue them in place and cover with more J&B weld. If they were working perfectly, almost none do, you would see a little more torque below 3500 to 4000 RPM. A rotary race car almost never sees RPM's below 4000.

[Quickshoe]

Thanks for the responses!

We will get the exhaust done, see how much of a change that is...and then attack the sleeves issue.

Karl,

Are there any mods required to the housings?

When the sleeves are removed are the lower tracts, in the housings, open via a port to the upper tracts?

If so, any issues with that?

This is an NA open engine mod class so we aren't limited by many stinkin' rules. No need in building some serious HP rotary as the car is competitive now, with what feels like something in the 120-140 RWHP range! I know my old 12A 1st gen would have kicked its' portly 2600# arse in a drag race even with the 2nd gen's 5.12 rear.

Thanks again!

Ray, come out of hiding. Your opinion is also valued!

[ddewhurst]

My guess is that if you e-mailed Dave Lemon of Mazdatrix or put a similar post on the Production site Dave would respond. He has some info on his site & IIRC he dosen't recomend the 6 port mods. Very little gain.....

Have Fun http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/wink.gif
David

[moto62]

Originally posted by Quickshoe:
Thanks for the responses!
Ray, come out of hiding. Your opinion is also valued.


U talkin to me? Leave the dang things alone unless you plan on removing them completely. Wire them open only because they have a way of not functioning sometimes. The sleeves will get stuck in the closed position and all the vacuum in the world open them. Hope this helps.
Ray

[Quickshoe]

Thanks for the tip David, I checked out his site and the tech tips. Now for those rear steer eliminators....

Ray,

I would love to leave them alone and get the best of both worlds. Problem is, they don't open. Therefore we have to wire them open and deal with some HP loss in an area we don't often venture or pull them out and modify the intake manifold.

[BrianB]

If the actuators are still there and if there is a lever to wire open, the valves are still in there
If so spend a few hours and take the intake manifold off and get rid of them. Follow Karl's suggestions. You'll find out why they get stuck. Lots of carbon,oil sludge. You'll see how restictive they are also.
Open the exhaust, open the intake, increase fuel pressure,advance the timing =ZOOM
B