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View Full Version : 2nd Gen: Gut the brake prop valve?



Chris Wire
12-06-2002, 12:29 PM
I will be installing a Tilton brake proportioning valve soon and was just wondering what everyone did with the stock prop valve?

On my AS Mustang, we simply took the plug off the end and gutted the thing entirely. This turned it into nothing more than a distribution block, leaving the brake proportioning to the lever valve.

So, do I gut it entirely? Remove it and just run the lines straight from the master cylinder? We are allowed to revise the brake circuitry, so I am looking for the easiest, simplist solution.

Thanks.

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Chris Wire
Team Wire Racing
ITS Mazda RX7 #35
[email protected]

Quickshoe
12-06-2002, 07:06 PM
Chris,

Fairly recently I installed the Tilton valve (that was purchased from you) in a 2nd gen. I chose to retain the stock prop valve and installed the Tilton between it and the T for the rear.

I did this because I was concerned that w/o the stock prop valve all I was getting was adjustability and might only be able to reduce the rears to some balance around stock. By adding it to the existing system I can go from stock rear to 63% less rear(or whatever the max reduction is). The only thing I can't do is dial in more rear than stock.

If you are locking fronts first now don't go through a working stock valve.

If you trail brake and locking rears is a problem for your driving style go through the stock valve.

BTW, the Tilton metric is the correct thread but not the correct flare. You will need to have/make brake lines with the correct end on the prop end or use adapters. I didn't use adapters, I was trying to avoid that by buying metric.

C. Ludwig
12-06-2002, 08:10 PM
Mine's lying in my pile off useless parts somewhere. Sure the rules don't say you can remove it but they don't say you can gut it either. http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/wink.gif With fresh pads I run the lever in the middle position or there abouts. Once the fronts wear a bit I move the balance forward since I'm not getting as much bite anymore. After about 10 races I change fronts and then start over with the adjuster. In the rain I've moved the adjuster back about 3/4 of the way and was happy. The short version is that I'm more than pleased with the range of adjustment.

Chris

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Chris Ludwig
08 ITS RX7 CenDiv

Chris Wire
12-06-2002, 10:27 PM
Originally posted by C. Ludwig:
Sure the rules don't say you can remove it but they don't say you can gut it either. http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/wink.gif

Chris, I think that one is covered under the phrasing, "brake circuitry may be revised."

Quickshoe, sorry to hear about the flaring. I have decided to run hard line off the m/cyl to the firewall where I will convert it to -3 AN braided line. I will run that to the valve on the tunnel, then again with the braided line out to the tee fitting.

Any other suggestions are welcome. http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/smile.gif



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Chris Wire
Team Wire Racing
ITS Mazda RX7 #35
[email protected]

C. Ludwig
12-07-2002, 11:05 AM
Steve at SMC made my line from the master cylinder to the T in the rear. It's a braided line, which I guess isn't quite as good as a hard line but it's much easier...and more expensive. Anyway I sent him an old Mazda metric fitting and the fitting that fits the prop valve and he made the lines with the correct ends. I had him put a 90* on the MC end to for some reason (don't have the car in front of me to say why). I'm guessing you'd have a resource for such things but if not let me know and I can try to hunt down SMC's addy.

Chris

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Chris Ludwig
08 ITS RX7 CenDiv