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Silkworm
11-28-2001, 08:58 PM
I'm sure some of you run Konis, where does this white "washer" go? Koni's instructions STINK!

http://www.lcaf.com/silk/RX-7/RX7-61.jpg

Thanks,

PaulC


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NoRaceCarYet
11-28-2001, 09:29 PM
LOL!

They do stink don't they..!

The white washer is "bash protection", if the top of the shock body gets stuffed into the mounting plate it will slightly (or allot) damage the shock, so the white plastic washer is designed to protect the shock body from some contact, just slip it around the plunger shaft and there ya go.. If it gets destroyed, you may want to raize the ride height.

K

Mazmarc
11-28-2001, 09:40 PM
Paul,

Take off the camber plate and the bump stop and slip the washer over the piston so it just lays loose where the piston enters the shock body. Im not sure but I think its just a protector between the bump stop and the body of the shock.

The hole really doesnt look big enough though. Are you sure they dont go on the rear shocks?


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Marc Dana
#63 ITS Mazda Rx-7
#77 STS BMW 325I

Silkworm
11-28-2001, 09:53 PM
No, it will definitely slide over the shock tube, just a trick of the flash making it look bigger. I just didn't see a point to it because you've got the bump stop on there, and it's going to keep the shock from bottoming out at full compression, and the washer didn't seem to matter. Ok, easy enough to disassemble and put it in there http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/smile.gif

The rears have one too, but no bump stop like the fronts.

PaulC

NoRaceCarYet
11-28-2001, 09:55 PM
Where'd that yellow bump stop come from...? You might not need that with the white washer.

Think wheel travel.

[This message has been edited by NoRaceCarYet (edited November 29, 2001).]

Silkworm
11-29-2001, 06:43 PM
Well, the bumpstop came with the shocks. I figure if it becomes a question of wheel travel, an exacto knife will easily remove it, but I'll keep it for the time being. I added the plastic washer as well.

Do most of you guys run without tender springs in the rear? The 10" ERS springs don't reach the seat at full shock extension without cranking up on the spring height all the way. I'm going to just give it a shot tonight, get the subframe bolted back in and see where they sit

PaulC



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Mazmarc
11-30-2001, 05:19 PM
Paul,

I dont use helper springs at all. I use 8" springs front and rear. The front I have tie wrapped to the spring cap so they dont droop. In the rear, I dont even have a spring cap. They just compress against the top mounting plate. So when I jack the car they just drop on the adjusting collar. Sounds hokey but it works.

Remember to set your ride height with a slight rake to the rear. Around 3/4" higher.

Good luck,


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Marc Dana
#63 ITS Mazda Rx-7
#77 STS BMW 325I

[This message has been edited by Mazmarc (edited November 30, 2001).]

Karl Bocchieri
12-03-2001, 09:33 PM
Originally posted by NoRaceCarYet:
Where'd that yellow bump stop come from...? You might not need that with the white washer.

Think wheel travel.

[This message has been edited by NoRaceCarYet (edited November 29, 2001).]

You can buy different durometer stops but you have to have it in there. If the shock bottoms out before the springs bind you will trash the shock. If the springs do go into coil bind your spring rate goes from the spring rate (250 Lb/inch or whatever you use) to infinity, usually in the middle of a corner. Can you say instant massive understeer? The bump stop prevents shock damage and also lets you have a more progressive increase in rate before spring bind.
The white washer is there to prevent the top cap of the strut from comming loose. In a turn, the bump rubber is compressed between the bottom of upper spring perch and the cap that holds the strut in the housing. If you turn the wheel (steering in the turn while under full compression) the rubber can actually unscrew the cap after enough time. The washer lets the rubber slip and prevents it.

Silkworm
12-04-2001, 03:20 AM
Marc, Karl, thanks for the help!!!! That was an excellent description of why that plastic piece is there, I'd have never thought about it that way, but you're right, it could easily unscrew the top under compression.

For a first attempt, it's close, but I'll have to get it up in the air to get the front a smidge higher and the rear alot lower, then I get to cornerweight it to see what it really should be.

Thanks again!

PaulC
http://www.lcaf.com/silk/RX-7/RX7-65.jpg

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NoRaceCarYet
12-04-2001, 03:14 PM
Thanks Karl, that clears up some misinformation I had been suffering from for um, 8 years!! Makes much more sense...

eprodrx7
12-13-2001, 12:18 PM
The "bump stops" you speak of are not really bump stops although the do serve that function also. I suggest reading Carol Smith's "tune to win " on the subject for mor info. He describes them as secondary springs and explains a theory of how they can be tuned to your advantage.

JOHN

Karl Bocchieri
12-13-2001, 08:52 PM
Yes, they realy are bump stops to prevent shock damage on strut suspensions.
The Koni web site explains every thing in much greater detail than can be done here. I suggest that anyone with any shock question spend an hour and read it.

eprodrx7
12-14-2001, 09:20 AM
Yes Karl they are bump stops but look close and notice that they are cone shaped. This is for a reason. Having then come in contact with the top of the tube is intentional and usefull.