Gunk under valvecover?

[jasonb]

First off, I own an 88 CRX Si that is used only as a racecar. Rarely started. Probably started it 5-10 times in the last couple months. Recently I noticed water coming out of my exhaust. Exhaust is 2.5" piping to Dynomax resonator. The water is COLD, even when the motor is completely warmed up. The more you rev it, the more water comes out. The headgasket is new, torqued down to specs. Did a compression test, 195-200 across. I checked the oil and there is no water/water wetter in it. I then pulled the oil cap and noticed the milky residue that is common to a blown headgasket. So I pulled the valvecover and noticed more of this on the underside of it. However, the residue isnt in the oil in the head. Just on the valvecover. Anyone think that maybe it could just be condensation from the motor just sitting most of the time? I have heard that this happens to alot of racecars, not sure why though. Maybe condensation/water gets trapped in the exhaust? Any of you ever experience this? I have an event in a couple weeks and am a little conserned about this. Anyways here is a picture of what the valvecover looked like when I pulled it. Motor is a d16a6. Im going to perform a leakdown test in the beginning of next week. Hopefully that will explain whats going on.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTA4ODk1NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

[Greg Gauper]

It is quite amazing how much condensation comes out of a 'cold' motor. It is also interesting how cold the oil still is even though the water temp reads 180. I have clear tubing from my valve cover breather to a catch tank. There is lots of moisture when the motor is cold. When I come off the track after a session, the tube is bone dry.

I have a temp gauge in my pan and at idle, my oil temp never gets above 140 even with the water at 180-190 for several minutes of idling. You have to put the engine under load to get the oil warm enough to boil off the condensation. 10-20 minutes of street driving or 2-3 laps on a race track to get my oil temps up to 200. Now 140 feels hot (like if you drop the drain plug in the drain pan and try and fish it out) since your house water heater is probably close to 125. But 140 is not hot enough to cook off the moisture.

Funny story, my aunt lives in northern Minnasota (on the Canada border) and she drives less than 5 miles to work. She has a block heater like most people in that area. One very cold week her car would crank and crank but would not start. Took it to the garage and they found the exhaust pipe plugged with ice. She never got the motor or exhaust hot enough to boil off the moisture.

If your compression is good, and a leak down test is good, and a pressure test of your cooling system is good, I would say you are okay. I would get the oil really hot (like a drive to the parts store for new oil) and change the oil and filter for good measure. This is one of the reasons they use miles AND/OR months for the oil change interval.

[This message has been edited by Greg Gauper (edited May 30, 2003).]

[jasonb]

Thank you Greg. I guess all I can do is the leakdown test to confirm one way or another.

[Knestis]

I owned an Audi 4000 5+5 and rusted out two rear mufflers in less than 2 years. Turns out that the car is so long that the rear muffler never got warm enough to chase the accumulated water out - so I replaced it with a length of pipe. Sounded like a rally Quattro with just the front muffler left...

Short story is make sure that your oil gets above 212* on the track and the goo will go away.

K

[joeg]

Don't worry about it.

It is actually been a cold spring.

[jasonb]

Well, it turns out it was condensation after all. I ran the motor for about 30 minutes, then checked under the valve cover and the gunk was gone. Also checked for water exiting the tailpipe and there was none.

The compression test showed I had between 195-206 compression. Leakdown test showed between 4-8% leakdown.

Taking the car to get dynoed on the 14th. I'll post results if anyone is interested.