To use a O.E. or high performance clutch?

[gran racing]

Unfortunately my clutch went in this weekend's event. At least I had enough left that I was able to finish the race. So, obviously I need a new clutch. I was using a centerforce clutch, but am a bit disappointed with how long it lasted! It was installed in 2001 and only had about 7 or 8 HPDEs on it. It is only used at the track. The car is a 1987 Honda prelude si and has a stock engine. Because I do not have any engine mods / significant HP mods. and do not need to worry about standing starts, am I better off using a O.E. clutch? Several people stated that it should last longer and there really isn't a need to use a high performace clutch. Others say definately us a high performace clutch. I need to spend $300 or less for the clutch / kit. I know that limits my choices. Thanks for the advice.

[Tom Blaney]

Stick with the stock pressure plate, and perhaps a little more high perf. clutch disk. One with stiffer springs. Don't go with a solid center disk they are really hard on the car and driver and since you don't have gobs of hp or torque it's money well spent somewhere else.

[bill f]

I can offer a suggestion that I use, but for different model car. It is usable for any vehicle, of course.

Use the stock pressure plate...it is usually rated at something beyond the potential of the engine. Use a stronger disc, but the strength is usually needed in the center springs as they weaken with age and usage (harder shifts, higher revs). These center hub springs are used/needed for absorption of shock from the shift that would otherwise be transmitted to the drivetrain. Sort of like being hit directly with a hammer, verses cushining it with a pillow.

The only other problem that I have encountered has been the endurance of the stock lining. When higher revs are used, the lining seems to want to disintegrate, fracturing at the rivit holes. This is obvious since the fragments show the curved rivit holes. Bear in mind, that with normal usage (minimal slipping), no power shifts, and clean shifts between gears, the lining will last forever. It only wears away with slipping. I've had discs with three hard seasons of 8,000RPM use that have the printing still evident on them. They were modified as I describe below.

One possible solution to the lining problem stated above, was to send the stock disc to a rebuilder (used discs were used too). The springs were replaced with stronger ones, and the lining was replaced with the attachment method of BONDING, instead of rivits. This accomplished two things. First, the lining was held over a complete surface (greater surface ares), not specific points...never disintegrated again. Secondly, the heating process used for the bonding agent weakened the Marchelle (sp) springs, flattening the disc. The effect of this is to quicken the shift, since there is less motion to take up with the compression of the Marchelle spring.

The Marchelle spring function is to allow the vehicle to be moved smoothly from rest, with a longer, progressive take-up of the pedal.

It only takes as few days to do in the shop (same as the delivery time for an after market product), and it virtually lasts forever.

Hope this broadens your opportunities for replacement.

Good racing. Bill