ITA CRX - Emmissions Equipment removal ?

[Fleetcare]

How do I remove the charcoal canister?
http://www.want2race.net/racecar/images/emissions.jpg
Its the unit pictured on the left.
Can I just remove it or ?? And what do I do with the solinoids ( in the top right hand corner of the picture )?

Thanks
~Jonathan
http://www.want2race.net/racecar


[This message has been edited by Fleetcare (edited December 03, 2002).]

[pavis]

Any answers to this question yet???

[Knestis]

Sorry - can't help - but looking at the pictures on your site, you are going to town on that Ebay bad boy! Good work...
Kirk

[greg_umbay]

try posting the question in the tech talk section. You might have a better response. I did the same when it came to my ignition key lock question.

------------------
http://www.ita.hondapowered.com

[DB2-R81]

The system captures fuel vapour from the tank, condenses it and dumps to the TB to be burnt when fuel tank pressure exceeds ambient air pressure.

Black hose, vacuum hose from canister valve to EVAP solenoid, remove the hose unplug the solenoid and toss. There is also a vacuum hose running from the solenoid to the intake manifold, remove hose and cap vacuum port on intake manifold.

Red woven hose goes from EVAP canister to TB, returns fuel vapour and condensed vapour to TB to be burnt, remove hose and canister, toss. Cap port at TB or you will have a vacuum leak.

Red hose, breather from fuel tank, leave open has a one way valve in line to tank.

[Fleetcare]

Originally posted by DB2-R81:
The system captures fuel vapour from the tank, condenses it and dumps to the TB to be burnt when fuel tank pressure exceeds ambient air pressure.

Black hose, vacuum hose from canister valve to EVAP solenoid, remove the hose unplug the solenoid and toss. There is also a vacuum hose running from the solenoid to the intake manifold, remove hose and cap vacuum port on intake manifold.

Red woven hose goes from EVAP canister to TB, returns fuel vapour and condensed vapour to TB to be burnt, remove hose and canister, toss. Cap port at TB or you will have a vacuum leak.

Red hose, breather from fuel tank, leave open has a one way valve in line to tank.


Thanks a million!

[ITR#231]

Seems simple enough thanks to the clear instructions. But forgive my ignorance...benefit? Is this just small-change legal weight reduction?

------------------
'88 CRX Si - ITA/PS2 road racer: Handles like it's on jack stands
'98 ITR #0231 - DS autocrosser: Handles like I sold it
'02 Jeep Grand Cherokee - daily driver/tow vehicle: Handles like a jumping castle

[Fleetcare]

Originally posted by ITR#231:
Seems simple enough thanks to the clear instructions. But forgive my ignorance...benefit? Is this just small-change legal weight reduction?


a cleaner engine bay and a place to mount my catchcan

[ITR#231]

Originally posted by Fleetcare:

a cleaner engine bay and a place to mount my catchcan



Heck, good enough reason for me!



------------------
'88 CRX Si - ITA/PS2 road racer: Handles like it's on jack stands
'98 ITR #0231 - DS autocrosser: Handles like I sold it
'02 Jeep Grand Cherokee - daily driver/tow vehicle: Handles like a jumping castle

[Fleetcare]

has anyone else tried this ?
Since having done this my car doesnt run as well. the problem is i havent really run it enough before or after to judge this as the cause...

anyone ?

[jc836]

As others have noted-you must make certain that all vacuum lines are properly plugged and that the breather is working properly as well. If by chance this is still a street legal car, you may want to rethink the removal as it is not legal to disable or remove emissions components-except for a true race application.
Interesting use of the space that you propose.

------------------
'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA
'96 Civic HB Just cruising daily
'99 Prelude=a sweet song
in motion
Grandpa's toys-modded suspensions and a few other tweaks

[Fleetcare]

Originally posted by jc836:
As others have noted-you must make certain that all vacuum lines are properly plugged and that the breather is working properly as well. If by chance this is still a street legal car, you may want to rethink the removal as it is not legal to disable or remove emissions components-except for a true race application.
Interesting use of the space that you propose.


Its race only (although I am tempted to drive it in the neighborhood to see all 5 gears work). I capped everything and the car is now loosing fuel pressure quickly and having a hard time running. I may try put that stuff back when I get over the chicken pox and see if it helps.. Ill keep you guys updated

[racer-025]

Whats with the painted TB anyway?

[Fleetcare]

Originally posted by racer-025:
Whats with the painted TB anyway?

came with the car... pretty ghetto huh ?

It may get fixed oneday... doubtful though

[Richy Gonzalez]

Fleetcare,
While I don't have a clue as too what would happen with if you remove the stuff but a friend of mine, who also races a CRX in ITA, had mistakenly flip the two vacuum lines that go to the tb. The car would idle but wouldn't rev past 3/4k rpm. This might not help, but thought I would tell you. Good luck!

------------------
Richy Gonzalez
GB Racing - #24 ITA CRX (http://groups.msn.com/TheGonzalezFamilyRichySheilaandNyah/projectitacrx.msnw)
Racecar Sponsor: LAMIN-X Protective Films (http://www.lamin-x.com)

[Fleetcare]

Originally posted by Richy Gonzalez:
Fleetcare,
While I don't have a clue as too what would happen with if you remove the stuff but a friend of mine, who also races a CRX in ITA, had mistakenly flip the two vacuum lines that go to the tb. The car would idle but wouldn't rev past 3/4k rpm. This might not help, but thought I would tell you. Good luck!



Thanks Richy!I will look at that soon!

[pavis]

I took out the charcoal canister (left the "solenoid" and capped line there) the other day and haven't had any major problems but have yet to get the car up to race speed. One caveat: I have a fuel cell so the breather line to the charcoal canister really makes no difference.
I'd be interested to hear if putting your emissions stuff back on makes a difference.

[Domino]

I trust that when you removed the solenoids you didn't remove the entire bracket and disconnect the MAP sensor and vacuum line. The MAP sensor is the larger connector under the purge-cut solenoid connector. The only vacuum line that needs to stay connected is one attached to the top of the TB. This line is associated with the MAP sensor.

[Fleetcare]

Originally posted by Domino:
I trust that when you removed the solenoids you didn't remove the entire bracket and disconnect the MAP sensor and vacuum line. The MAP sensor is the larger connector under the purge-cut solenoid connector. The only vacuum line that needs to stay connected is one attached to the top of the TB. This line is associated with the MAP sensor.


I am confused. I took out all the solinoids and capped the lines.. which one is the map sensor? This is probably the problem

[Domino]

Originally posted by Fleetcare:

I am confused. I took out all the solinoids and capped the lines.. which one is the map sensor? This is probably the problem

The whole solenoid bracket is actually two pieces. All that should be removed is the right-hand piece. It is held-on to the rest of the bracket via a large screw. You can see the gold screw at the top right of the picture. Once you unscrew it you will have to disconnect the thin connector and pull it off of the its holding tab. If you follow the path of the wires from the solenoid backward you can't miss. (both the MAP sensor and purge-cut connector are visible at the top of the picture)

Once you do that then you can cover the male connector with a piece of duct tape. Now, the only thing left connected is the big MAP sensor. The only vacuum line that should be left connected is the gray one you see going into the top of the TB. Follow that line from the TB and it connects to the bottom of the MAP sensor. Let me know how it turns out.



[This message has been edited by Domino (edited January 14, 2003).]

[Fleetcare]

Originally posted by Domino:
The whole solenoid bracket is actually two pieces. All that should be removed is the right-hand piece. It is held-on to the rest of the bracket via a large screw. You can see the gold screw at the top right of the picture. Once you unscrew it you will have to disconnect the thin connector and pull it off of the its holding tab. If you follow the path of the wires from the solenoid backward you can't miss. (both the MAP sensor and purge-cut connector are visible at the top of the picture)

Once you do that then you can cover the male connector with a piece of duct tape. Now, the only thing left connected is the big MAP sensor. The only vacuum line that should be left connected is the gray one you see going into the top of the TB. Follow that line from the TB and it connects to the bottom of the MAP sensor. Let me know how it turns out.

[This message has been edited by Domino (edited January 14, 2003).]

Thanks.. In a really stupid move I threw away my map sensor!

[Domino]

Originally posted by Fleetcare:
Thanks.. In a really stupid move I threw away my map sensor!

I think you found your problem. Better get one before Roebling. Hope to see you there!

[Fleetcare]

Originally posted by Domino:
I think you found your problem. Better get one before Roebling. Hope to see you there!

A million thank you's!
I reconnected it and it ran like a champ! until it broke a cv joint http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/frown.gif

Thanks again

[Domino]

Originally posted by Fleetcare:
A million thank you's!
I reconnected it and it ran like a champ! until it broke a cv joint http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/frown.gif

Thanks again

Glad to hear it!

[HiRcc#21]

Johnathan-
I have done the conversion your talking about. I have pics if you want them.
I have done this to several crx/civics I have built for my customers here in ohio.
you can email me if you want the pics or advice on further building your car.
I don't know if I can help you, but I'll try.
email:[email protected]
or you can call my business line (866) 438-3966 (Street-N-Track Autosports, LLC.)
I'd be glad to help you.

[HiRcc#21]

Ok guys-
Here is what I did. Since Johnathan needed help,I put together a very technical manual with pics and all, for any of you out there who are considering doing this step in your ITA car.
Just drop me an email and let me know...
[email protected]

[This message has been edited by HiRcc#21 (edited February 11, 2003).]