View Full Version : Tools required for replacing wheel bearings/hubs

06-21-2002, 06:36 AM
I have to replace a CV boot, so I figured this would be a good time to install the OPM hardened hubs and fresh wheel bearings I have laying around. I'm also going to install extended wheel studs at the same time, since I have good access to the hub.

I'm looking at the helm's manual, but I'm having a hard time seeing exactly what I will need to do the job. I am confident that I can separate the ball joints and remove the knuckle since I have done that before on a Honda, but I have never replaced bearings or removed hubs myself. I'm hopeing that I won't have to take this to a shop since it can't be that difficult to do. Also, if you're going to tell me that "I need a press," please be more specific. Thanks for any info. A step-by-step for dummies would suit me just fine, heh, heh.

I tried the search function and even shuffled through old posts, but I couldn't find anything with the detail I need.

06-21-2002, 08:12 AM
Uh-oh, this isn't going to turn into another Honda-Tech "How do I separate the ball joint" thread, is it? http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/wink.gif

Should only need the start 17mm and 14mm sockets (don't make me underline the importance of air tools again!) plus the ubiquitous large hammer for the removal of the upright.

Save yourself days' worth of aggrivation and take the new hub, studs, bearing, and spare upright (you do have spares, right?) to your local automotive machine shop. For the price you'll pay the shop to do it you could spend an extra hour at work instead of an entire week in the garage cursing... Besides, that bearing must take a HUGE press!

By the way, which studs did you get? Are they a quick start type with the missing threads?


Jon Nelson
06-21-2002, 10:47 AM
I'm with Tom on that one, I did do my own, but I happen to have a press.... a machine shop might be the easy way out, but go to a place you trust or a race-oriented shop that will understand why you want the bearings packed with synthetic grease.

One cool thing about replacing the hubs at the same time is that you won't have to remove the inner bearing race from the hub, that's usually the toughest part.

If you are adventureous and do a lot of work on other cars too, consider purchasing a press. You don't really need a very big one, my bearings pressed out pretty easily.

A note about wheel studs... there's a lot of misinformation about various part numbers that are cheap and easy to get, here's a rundown:

- Dorman part #??? for a chevy crapalier. Needs to have a larger hole (1/2") drilled in the hub in order to press in. DON'T DO IT!! And certainly don't press it in anyways!

- ARP metric studs, have the right thread dia/pitch, same problem as above.

- Various integra parts, ie 89 integra LS, 1994 GSR, etc. Nope. Honda has superceeded these to the same part number as the ones you have, so unless you get lucky at the dealer, you are SOL. (This with Honda Canada, I'm assuming US the same)

- Skunk2. Should fit/work just fine. Designed for Hondas!

- '96-'98 Acura TL rear studs. Work great, fit, are 10-12mm longer, and press in exactly the same way. (Thanks Gord G. for the info!!). Use Honda parts for a Honda!!!

There's quite a bit of crap floating around about people simply pressing ARP and/or other GM-fit products into the honda hubs, especially at the honda-tech forum.... don't listen.


06-21-2002, 01:02 PM
I agree, pay someone who you can trust or micro manage.


06-22-2002, 01:17 AM
Originally posted by il8apex:
Uh-oh, this isn't going to turn into another Honda-Tech "How do I separate the ball joint" thread, is it? http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/wink.gif

Yea, like I'm the only one who has ever had trouble separating ball joints http://Forums.ImprovedTouring.com/it/wink.gif

As for the studs, I'm hoping to pick up a set of H&R spacers that include the studs. I ran these spacers on my ITR and the quality was great, although I never used the studs.

Also, with respect to the spare upright, are you suggesting that I simply swap out the entire knuckle? I guess that would save me some trouble considering that I'm removing the splash guard and changing hubs, bearings, studs, and rotors at the same time.

To everyone else,

I imagine you are right. I'll have to find out how much some of the local shops would charge to do all that.

[This message has been edited by ITR#231 (edited June 22, 2002).]

07-23-2002, 03:17 AM
Can I get a confirmation that the 96-98 TL REAR studs are the correct ones to get and how much longer they really are? why is it the fronts and rears are different sizes anyway?

Jon Nelson
07-23-2002, 08:36 AM
I can't give a second opinion, just my first one, but the reason I KNOW is that I have 'em!

Acura re-called the rear hubs on the 96-98 TL's, and Gord Graham (who is a pro Acura mechanic) put me on to them. I guess he scored a bunch of these studs when he was performing the recalls on these cars. I bought some from him, but his stash didn't have quite enough to do my whole car, so I did end up ordering more from my local Acura store. They fit and worked. 10-12 mm longer than stock.

IMHO, they probably arent worth the trouble, but I started, and couldn't stop, I wanted more thread engagement for the alloy lug nuts I bought.

Hope that clarifies.

see ya,


07-23-2002, 10:13 PM
I went ahead and spent the wad on the H&R studs/spacers thinking this was my only option (I also heard bad things about Skunk2 and the other issues you mentioned about GM sizing). Can you (someone) confirm that the stud bore on a '94 DX Civic will accept the TL studs? I'm asuming most of you have CRX's, and I'm not positive that the bore is the same.


1994 Civic DX - ITA #93

Jon Nelson
07-23-2002, 11:36 PM
Try doing a cross reference at www.hondaautomotiveparts.com (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com) to check the part number of the DX studs against the CRX (88-91).

It might not prove fruitful, however, cause I dont think they use Honda part numbers.

However, I'm 99.9% sure that the bore will fit the TL studs.

If you are freindly with a Honda dealer, ask them. Otherwise, order 1 stud and try it! I actually tried this with a 94 GS-R stud (which was SUPPOSED to be longer, according to some poorly informed souls at honda-tech forum) but it was the same length as my CRX studs.

Thanks again to Gord for coming through with the info on the TL studs.

go for it!!!!!

Jon Nelson

07-24-2002, 02:49 PM
well, i orderd 32 of em from www.acuraautomotiveparts.net (http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.net) yesterday, came out to $100 even. hope they arrive soon. i wont be racing til end of august anyway.

Gord Galloway
08-02-2002, 09:01 PM
I can personally guarentee that the 96-98 3.2TL studs will fit ANY Honda. The bonus is here..(and you didn't hear this from me!) 96-98 3.2TL had a recall due to a poor splash shield/bearing seal design which lead to pre-mature failure of the bearing. The fix was a new design splash shield and NEW HUBS. There are 5 studs in each hub and they are definitly 10mm longer than a standard civic hub. See if the Acura dealer will give or sell you these studs for a reasonable price as they are used. I can personally Guarantee they will fit in all Honda's. I have them in My Crx, Jon in his Civic and a couple Integras that I race with as well as a couple of Type R's. Hope this helps!

Gordon Galloway
Honda CRXsi
IT2 #32

Gord Galloway
08-02-2002, 09:02 PM
Oh and by the way make sure you get the studs for a 3.2 TL and not a 2.5 TL as they are different and the 2.5 studs are as long as a standard Civic stud.

Gordon Galloway
Honda CRXsi
IT2 #32