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RacerBill
04-04-2005, 07:25 AM
Shelby is going to the chassis shop today for a new cage. Design will have NASCAR door bars and be as close to GT/Prod cage as I can afford.

More news and pics to follow.

------------------
Bill Stevens
Mbr 103106
BnS Racing
83 ITA Shelby Dodge Charger

ITANorm
04-05-2005, 01:06 AM
I can read the headlines now:

SHELBY AND NASCAR PAIR UP AGAIN!

Good luck, Bill. http://ITForum.ImprovedTouring.com/wink.gif

RacerBill
04-05-2005, 12:10 PM
Shelby is getting better. List of items to be done at chassis shop: fix badly rusted passenger side floor, fabricate cage including gutting driver's door for NASCAR door bars, mount window net, and mount harness and belts.

Trailer is back at the house, getting more rust repair, more paint, new 'D' rings, new lights, and a new tire rack.

I ought to post some before pictures!


------------------
Bill Stevens
Mbr 103106
BnS Racing
83 ITA Shelby Dodge Charger

RacerBill
04-06-2005, 08:01 AM
Trailer update: Old tie-down rings are gone (had to cut them off). Mounted one of the new d-rings (M&R rated at 14,000, they are going to work great!). Will mount the other three tonight.

------------------
Bill Stevens
Mbr 103106
BnS Racing
83 ITA Shelby Dodge Charger

RacerBill
04-07-2005, 08:38 AM
Progress:
Trailer - got one more tiedown installed. But got all the old clearance lights cut off, rust spots ground down, and rustoleum primer applied. Also got the hook for the safety chain.
Car - acquired u-bolt to mount the master kill switch (it will be on the cage under the a-pillar, at the bottom of the driver's window, where workers can get to it!)

------------------
Bill Stevens
Mbr 103106
BnS Racing
83 ITA Shelby Dodge Charger

RacerBill
05-25-2005, 12:37 PM
Well, it's been a while, so a detailed update would fill the site. The car is back from the chassis shop with new floor, and a new cage. Not completely satisfied with the cage. I am going to do a weld by weld inspection of it tonight, but I have found at least one joint that was only partially welded. Driver's door bars are great - triple horizontal with NASCAR style verticals. There is going to be a lot of work cutting the dash to get it to fit around the down tubes and the high mounted knee bar.

I'm not sure about the main hoop either. There is a gap from 1 3/4in to 2 1/2in from the top of the cage to the roof. And the front down tube could have been about 4in farther forward.

Oh, and the tabs on the horizontal shoulder harness bar were welded so close together that I am going to have to move them in order to mount the seat back brace.

Well, at least the work on the trailer is 95% done, and the car is back to be able to work on it again.

That and start working on sponsors - already got the Official Desert of BnS Racing lined up. At least the team will eat well!

Pictures will be uploaded to website as soon as I can compress them (1M each).


------------------
Bill Stevens
Mbr 103106
BnS Racing
83 ITA Shelby Dodge Charger
www.motorpride.com/BnSRacing

Speed Raycer
05-25-2005, 06:22 PM
Originally posted by RacerBill:
Not completely satisfied with the cage....
found at least one joint that was only partially welded...
main hoop... There is a gap from 1 3/4in to 2 1/2in from the top of the cage to the roof. And the front down tube could have been about 4in farther forward.

Oh, and the tabs on the horizontal shoulder harness bar were welded so close together that I am going to have to move them in order to mount the seat back brace.


Biting my tounge here Bill http://ITForum.ImprovedTouring.com/wink.gif



------------------
Scott Rhea
It's not what you build...
it's how you build it
http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/images/IzysLgoSm.jpg (http://www.izzyscustomcages.com)
Izzy's Custom Cages (http://www.izzyscustomcages.com)

Bill Miller
05-25-2005, 09:18 PM
Originally posted by RacerBill:
Well, it's been a while, so a detailed update would fill the site. The car is back from the chassis shop with new floor, and a new cage. Not completely satisfied with the cage. I am going to do a weld by weld inspection of it tonight, but I have found at least one joint that was only partially welded. Driver's door bars are great - triple horizontal with NASCAR style verticals. There is going to be a lot of work cutting the dash to get it to fit around the down tubes and the high mounted knee bar.

I'm not sure about the main hoop either. There is a gap from 1 3/4in to 2 1/2in from the top of the cage to the roof. And the front down tube could have been about 4in farther forward.

Oh, and the tabs on the horizontal shoulder harness bar were welded so close together that I am going to have to move them in order to mount the seat back brace.

Well, at least the work on the trailer is 95% done, and the car is back to be able to work on it again.

That and start working on sponsors - already got the Official Desert of BnS Racing lined up. At least the team will eat well!

Pictures will be uploaded to website as soon as I can compress them (1M each).





You'll need to get that weld completed before it will pass tech.


------------------
MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608

RacerBill
05-26-2005, 12:05 PM
'Biting my tounge here Bill'

No kidding! I took the car to a shop that advertised in the OVR newsletter, and had done work for a friend in Cinn. Also had other SCCA cars in his shop at the same time.

I wish I could have afforded the time for two round trips from Columbus to St. Louis.

Well, there's still the 944 that will probably become a race car before it gets back on the street. And that one will be done right!





------------------
Bill Stevens
Mbr 103106
BnS Racing
83 ITA Shelby Dodge Charger
www.motorpride.com/BnSRacing

RacerBill
05-26-2005, 12:10 PM
'You'll need to get that weld completed before it will pass tech.'

I plan to do a weld by weld inspection of the entire cage!

Also, I installed the seat and the whole harness assembly last night. The shoulder strap mounts are so close to together that in addition to preventing me from mounting the seat back brace on the horizontal bar, the straps cut into my neck!

RacerBill
06-03-2005, 08:24 AM
I have posted pictures of the new cage on our team website www(dot)motorpride(dot)com/bnsracing.

Let me know what you think.

cherokee
06-03-2005, 12:56 PM
I was $100 away from buying one new in 1983. I still like those cars, just don't see many anymore. I think it looks good.

RacerBill
06-03-2005, 03:14 PM
Cherokee: Thanks. Got to go buy more parts for it right now!



------------------
Bill Stevens
Mbr 103106
BnS Racing
83 ITA Shelby Dodge Charger
www.motorpride.com/BnSRacing

RacerBill
07-15-2005, 12:54 PM
Work continues, pace increased.

Here's a look at the interior with the new cage. Well, then again, not. Guess that you'll just have to check motorpride.com/BNSRacing for the pics.

Cage is primed, interior painted, working on exterior. Need to gloss finish the cage and then the dash can go back in. Wait, I'll put the heater back before the dash, so there's more room to work.

After that comes the fun part of replacing all the fastening hardware and putting everything back.

Crew chief cleaned up all the wiring harnesses. Since the car spent about 15 years on the street, the harness under the dash has been cut and spliced all over the place. Guess I'll just plug everything back in and run my own wires to critical functions.

The paint gun and air-power sander from Harbor Freight have both paid for themselves saving hours of time.

Hope to have more pictures after Monday.



------------------
Bill Stevens
Mbr 103106
BnS Racing
83 ITA Shelby Dodge Charger
www.motorpride.com/BnSRacing

RacerBill
09-07-2005, 07:28 AM
More updates!

Check list down to 16 items!

Entry form for 9/10-11 regional going out today (late, but better late than sorry!)

Rol cage and sholder harness tabs finished last Friday.

Today's tasks include fabricating the passenger door cover, mounting the heater, dusting, and radiator - filling the system and checking for leaks.

Appointment set for an alignment before heading to Mid-Ohio Friday afternoon.

:119: (really need a smiley for the Red Mist!)

RacerBill
09-12-2005, 07:15 AM
Downdates (can't really call them updated!) Car is on the trailer, stuck in gear and front wheels will not turn. Guess I'll start looking at the spare engine/drive train.
Narration on this weekend will be on my website shortly.

RacerBill
09-13-2005, 08:02 AM
Updates - Where do I go from here? I had my annual tech done this past weekend while I was up in Mid-Ohio. They handed me the weight slip showing both corner and total weight. Red Mist had set in pretty good by them, so I didn't really hear the comment as I came off the scales. Looked at the slip last night, and had to look twice more. Turns out I removed a lot more rust than I had thought. GCR weight = 2430, actual weight = 2408, 28 lbs UNDER! Good news, that was with the roller wheels and tires, not the race setup, and without the front air dam. Bad news, it had a full fuel load. :(

But, and this was really a surprise, the cross corner weights are exactly 50/50!

Now I'm going to have to fool around with the weight and screw up the cross weights!

Eagle7
09-13-2005, 09:37 AM
Don't trust the cross weights at the track. The probably don't have the scales leveled.

Matt Rowe
09-13-2005, 10:12 AM
Yep, these cars are really easy to get below weight. Almost makes you wish PCA's were up and running so they could adjust us back into mid-pack ability considering the current performance envelope. (22 lbs/stock hp in ITA?)

I'm assuming you are just looking at cross weight distribution being 50/50 and not front/rear which is likely still heavily front biased. Either way, I would agree that trusting the track scales to judge corner weights might get you into trouble. I haven't seen Mid-Ohio's scale setup but unless they really keep on top of things it's very easy for something to get knocked out of aligment. It still won't change the total but the cross weights will be off.

In any case, congratualtions on getting through annual. Now the big question, have you gotten the car freed up and off the trailer yet?

RacerBill
09-13-2005, 02:38 PM
Originally posted by Matt Rowe@Sep 13 2005, 10:12 AM
Yep, these cars are really easy to get below weight. Almost makes you wish PCA's were up and running so they could adjust us back into mid-pack ability considering the current performance envelope. (22 lbs/stock hp in ITA?)

I'm assuming you are just looking at cross weight distribution being 50/50 and not front/rear which is likely still heavily front biased. Either way, I would agree that trusting the track scales to judge corner weights might get you into trouble. I haven't seen Mid-Ohio's scale setup but unless they really keep on top of things it's very easy for something to get knocked out of aligment. It still won't change the total but the cross weights will be off.

In any case, congratualtions on getting through annual. Now the big question, have you gotten the car freed up and off the trailer yet?

60067


Matt: Thanks for getting back to me.

Scales: The scales at the track are very permenantly mounted in the tech shed, but I don't know of anyone who has zeroed their own scales and then gone and checked their car on the Ohio Valley Region scales (they are not owned by the track). Also, the cross weights are 50/50. Front to rear is F63.5/R36.5.

And I put in a cage with cross bracing on the rear braces, two bars on the right side and three NASCAR bars on the left. 1.5" x .120.

As to getting the car off the trailer, my thoughts are 1) disassemble the differential/transmission, 2) disconnect/remove half shafts 3) take off the front air dam, and facia, get a tow truck with a long boom, pick up the front and pull the trailer out from under the car, put the front wheels on dollies and roll it into the garage. (Don't laugh ot #3, I'm just getting started with this and Mark Twain once said "Good judgement comes from experience. And where does experience come from? Experience comes from bad judgement") Chose one, not all, unless first one does not work!

Seriously, any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Matt Rowe
09-13-2005, 03:47 PM
Well, the locked in gear problem is not one I've had to personally deal wth, yet. Having said that I'm looking forward to the next time I load the car on the trailer.

Just throwing some ideas out there. It's possible to pull the access cover on top of the trans pretty easily and get a look at the shift mechanism. That would give you a chance to see if it somehow managed to engage two gears at once and MAYBE be able to free things up without having to pull the trans. Of course typically when I hear about locked transmissions (of other makes) it usually related to a flywheel/clutch/pilot bearing issues so seperation may be you're only choice. :blink:

In reality, I don't have a clue on this one since I've never had to deal with it, or even know of anyone who has had to deal with it for a Dodge. I wish I could be more help. But I wouldn't discount using a wrecker boom to lift the car and at least get it off the trailer to work on. You do have AAA, right?

Good luck.

RacerBill
09-13-2005, 09:50 PM
Originally posted by Matt Rowe@Sep 13 2005, 03:47 PM
Well, the locked in gear problem is not one I've had to personally deal wth, yet. Having said that I'm looking forward to the next time I load the car on the trailer.

Just throwing some ideas out there. It's possible to pull the access cover on top of the trans pretty easily and get a look at the shift mechanism. That would give you a chance to see if it somehow managed to engage two gears at once and MAYBE be able to free things up without having to pull the trans. Of course typically when I hear about locked transmissions (of other makes) it usually related to a flywheel/clutch/pilot bearing issues so seperation may be you're only choice. :blink:

In reality, I don't have a clue on this one since I've never had to deal with it, or even know of anyone who has had to deal with it for a Dodge. I wish I could be more help. But I wouldn't discount using a wrecker boom to lift the car and at least get it off the trailer to work on. You do have AAA, right?

Good luck.

60092



Matt: Thanks for the advice. Hope to at least get started on it tomorrow. I'll keep you informed on the progress, hopefully with photos.

RacerBill
09-20-2005, 09:16 AM
Originally posted by RacerBill@Sep 13 2005, 09:50 PM
Matt: Thanks for the advice. Hope to at least get started on it tomorrow. I'll keep you informed on the progress, hopefully with photos.

60114


Update: New trailer ramps are on the way. Old ones were a little more than 3ft long and steel. New ramps are 6ft. long aluminum.

Harbor Freight had a fire sale on vehicle dollys, so a set of four now sits in the garage.

The plan: I have a friend in the tree trimming business who has a truck with a boom and log lifter (he says it will pick up a street Toyota). We'll sling the front of the car and get it up enough to roll the trailer out from under it, and place the locked wheels on the dollies.

Let you all know if we survive!

RacerBill
09-22-2005, 07:24 AM
:happy204:
Originally posted by RacerBill@Sep 20 2005, 09:16 AM
Update: New trailer ramps are on the way. Old ones were a little more than 3ft long and steel. New ramps are 6ft. long aluminum.

Harbor Freight had a fire sale on vehicle dollys, so a set of four now sits in the garage.

The plan: I have a friend in the tree trimming business who has a truck with a boom and log lifter (he says it will pick up a street Toyota). We'll sling the front of the car and get it up enough to roll the trailer out from under it, and place the locked wheels on the dollies.

Let you all know if we survive!

60679


:happy204: OK, we got the car off the trailer last night. Better than AAA. I have a friend at church who is in the tree trimming and removal business who just happens to have a truck with a crane that can pick up two ton logs. Wrapped a chain around the jaws, attached the chain to a sling on the frame, picked up the front and walked the car back off the trailer. Once the rear wheels were off the ramps, we removed the ramps, moved the car back another two feet and lowered the front wheels onto vehicle dollies. Took about a 1/2 hour (took our time, car didn't come near the railing on the trailer!).

Got home before the crane arrived, and there were the new trailer ramps I ordered. The ones that came with the trailer were about three feet long. New ones came from Discount Ramps (www(dot)discountramps(dot)com. Six ft. aluminum, 12 in wide, flat, rated at 2500lb per axle. Together, they weigh less than one of the old ramps. $210 plus shipping but they arrived in two days. SOOOOO much better!

Bargain number two! Looked up vehicle dollies at Harbor Freight. The website listed two sets, one set of two for $80 and one set of four for $114. Went to the local store and they just had the set of two on the showroom floor. So I asked about a set of four. The clerk said he did not think they had them, but he would check the price. When he came back, he said the did not have the price for the set of four, but the sets of two were on sale (not marked on the display models) for $40 a set. So, a set of four now sits in the garage, along with a brand new 1/2in torque wrench for tightening lug nuts.

Now to work learning about transmissions.

m glassburner
09-28-2005, 02:19 PM
Wow sounds like a labor of love !! I know how you feel....I've never had the trans lock up on me ?? It does sound like two gears are selected though. Which trans are you using ?? The 525 I assume ??? the trick is gears....Send me an e-mail and we'll talk b.t.w. the omni and spares are for sale :P....good luck !!

RacerBill
10-02-2005, 11:38 PM
Originally posted by m glassburner@Sep 28 2005, 02:19 PM
Wow sounds like a labor of love !! I know how you feel....I've never had the trans lock up on me ?? It does sound like two gears are selected though. Which trans are you using ?? The 525 I assume ??? the trick is gears....Send me an e-mail and we'll talk b.t.w. the omni and spares are for sale :P....good luck !!

61366


Took off top cover of the transmission today, and compared it to the spare I have on the backup engine. All the selectors look like the transmission is in neutral. But it is still locked. :( Time for plan 'B'. We have started to disconnect wiring, plumbing, and cables to take out the engine.

RacerBill
10-06-2005, 12:50 PM
Originally posted by RacerBill@Oct 2 2005, 11:38 PM
Took off top cover of the transmission today, and compared it to the spare I have on the backup engine. All the selectors look like the transmission is in neutral. But it is still locked. :( Time for plan 'B'. We have started to disconnect wiring, plumbing, and cables to take out the engine.

61667


Update: Engine/trans out. Took bad trans off good engine. Spent about two hours cleaning one of the spare trans. Got it back onto the good engine. Will finish cleaning the engine bay today and torque all the engine/trans bolts. Plan to put the engine/trans back in on Sat.

Matt Rowe
10-06-2005, 05:10 PM
I'm guessing you didn't find anything obviously wrong with the original trans yet? Please keep us (or at least me) informed when you know what happened. And good luck getting it back together. Are you trying to make another event this season or is the weather closing in up there yet? :D

RacerBill
10-07-2005, 08:40 AM
Originally posted by Matt Rowe@Oct 6 2005, 05:10 PM
I'm guessing you didn't find anything obviously wrong with the original trans yet? Please keep us (or at least me) informed when you know what happened. And good luck getting it back together. Are you trying to make another event this season or is the weather closing in up there yet? :D

61978


Yes, we are trying to get to a Double Rergional at Nelson Ledges 10/15-16. With a little luck, we can get a half day open test on Friday, as well. Or two hours at Columbus Motor Speedway ($10, 15 minute tow. Its and oval, but at least I can drive the car and adjust the shift linkage).

I have two complete spare powertrains, so with limited time, I did the trannie swap. Have all winter to take apart the old trannie, and see what went wrong. Taking the access panel off the top did not reveal any reason why she was locked up.


Plan is to drop the engine back in tomorrow.

By the way, when I took apart the linkage, I found one ball and socket that was secured with a clip (about a half inch wide, flat bottom with a hole, u-shaped, with the top contoured to fit over the socket. Is this a dodge part, or should NAPA have them?

Also, I did not check the old trannie, but the new trannie has ATF, not oil or gear lube (agrees with Haynes manual). That OK, or should I drain and use regular 10W30?

Thanks.

Matt Rowe
10-07-2005, 09:39 AM
Originally posted by RacerBill+Oct 7 2005, 08:40 AM-->
By the way, when I took apart the linkage, I found one ball and socket that was secured with a clip (about a half inch wide, flat bottom with a hole, u-shaped, with the top contoured to fit over the socket. Is this a dodge part, or should NAPA have them?
62021
[/b]
Dodge found there were problems with those joints seperating and issued a TSB to cover installing that clip to prevent the linkage from popping apart. I don't think Napa (help! brand of parts?) would carry them but I could be wrong. Iused to get them at the dealer althogh it may be a pain to find the part number. If nothing else have them look up the TSB and the part number should be stated there.

<!--QuoteBegin-RacerBill@Oct 7 2005, 08:40 AM
Also, I did not check the old trannie, but the new trannie has ATF, not oil or gear lube (agrees with Haynes manual). That OK, or should I drain and use regular 10W30?
62021

I run Redline MTL (manual trans lube) in my trans. Just makes for a better feel and is more stable from dead cold to high temp.

RacerBill
10-10-2005, 08:01 AM
Update: Engine and spare trannie are in the car :happy204: . Suspension is back together (I pulled the ball joints to get the axles out - pickle fork was cheaper than another alignment). Added wire ties to secure the sockets on the linkage rods from seperating from the balls. This will have to due unless I can get the part numbers of the clips (I called a Chrysler dealer and the parts department know about the clips, just don&#39;t know what the part number is, and their TB&#39;s only go back into the 90&#39;s).

The transmissions feels a lot better (I can shift into all gears). The only thing left is to fasten, connect and tighten down all the fittings that had been removed, and top off fluids. This weekend is looking better.

Having the engine/trans out gave me the opportunity to finish painting the engine bay. Looks a lot more finished.

lateapex911
10-10-2005, 10:31 PM
Originally posted by RacerBill@Oct 10 2005, 08:01 AM
Update: .... Added wire ties to secure the sockets on the linkage rods from seperating from the balls.
62184


The plastic kind?? Are you worried about heat? Saftey wire could be an alternative.

Matt Rowe
10-10-2005, 11:13 PM
Originally posted by lateapex911@Oct 10 2005, 10:31 PM
The plastic kind?? Are you worried about heat? Saftey wire could be an alternative.

62256


It&#39;s not a heat issue as much as they just don&#39;t hold up well the rigors of shifting. Safety wire has been tried by various people before but there isn&#39;t really a good way to hold things together without overly restraining the linkage.

m glassburner
10-13-2005, 03:28 PM
5w-30 mobile 1 oil works well,we&#39;ve had only had only two minor trans problems in 5 years, same trans....saftey wire also helps :023: ..p.s. change the oil after every race weekend cheap insurance.

RacerBill
05-17-2006, 10:34 PM
Well, it&#39;s been a while since I updated this thread. Going to try and post a picture of the car.

[attachmentid=430]

What do you know, it worked. This picture was taken in January or February. The shift linkage is still out in Portland OR hopefully getting fitted with heim joints in order to keep it all together. I purchased poly bushings for the front sway bar since when I took the bar out, the bushings looked pretty old and worn.

At least all of the electrics, gauges, tach, mirrors, etc are all finished. I got all the battery and master switch terminals covered, so we should be ready for annual tech.

Target date for first outing is the Cincy double regional at Mid Ohio the first week in July.

In the meanwhile, I have been doing some busy work, rebuilding a second carb, cleaning up a spare valve cover (thinking about getting the chrome redone), stuff like that. Probably get another set of rims ready. My son just talked the auto shop where he works into becoming a distributor for Tire Rack and he is getting me a new set of rains (Kumho Ecsta 700&#39;s in an odd size but the price is unbelievable, can&#39;t pass them up). His shop is in Bakersfield CA so if anyone is needing to pick up tires on the way to the track PM me and I can get you in touch with him.

Well, just thought I would update the thread. Hope to have some racing news soon.

RacerBill
06-11-2006, 10:36 PM
Well, after several months, I think that my shift linkage parts are finally going to be returned. Hopefully they will be reworked with the heim joints. I&#39;ll know better when they arrive. I will have to deal with the parts that I ordered from Chrysler later.

Looking forward towards making the Cincy regional at Mid-Ohio. :birra: :birra:

Greg Amy
06-12-2006, 08:57 AM
The shift linkage is still out in Portland OR hopefully getting fitted with heim joints...[/b]

:018:

lateapex911
06-12-2006, 11:02 AM
What Greg means is probably......

something like:

"Hey, it&#39;s great to get cars out there, and we love diversity, but........we also want guys to respect the rulebook and one another...isn&#39;t it illegal to modify (which it sounds like you are doing) shift linkages? Short shifters are not allowed, and no mods are allowed unless spelled out. Can&#39;t think of the rule that allows the addition of heim joints to the shift linages.....or are we missing something?"

Or something like that, ...

RacerBill
06-12-2006, 11:23 AM
Wellllllll, I&#39;m not trying to shorten the shift, and keeping all the rod lengths the same should not do this. The problem is a safety issue. The design is so poor, that the shift linkage has fallen apart in 100% of the sessions that the car has been on the track. I have been fortunate enough and familiar enough with Mid-Ohio to know all the safe places to hide the car and not cause any incidents.

There are clips available from Chrylser, but the part number for the clips is not listed in the hard copy parts catalog.

Chrylser replaced the entire design in later years, but not for the years that are covered on the spec line. Thought that fasteners (as in holding two parts together) were open. I am still using the stock shift lever, pivot ball, long shift tube, rods, pivots, and mounting brackets. I can see where using different pivots might alter the length of throw for the shift lever, but those are remaining stock.

lateapex911
06-12-2006, 05:31 PM
Well....a rules purist could bust your chops on that kind of thing, although to be honest, we all have bigger fish to fry, LOL.

Just don&#39;t go winning right out of the box, then bragging in the impound about how it shifted so crisply and quickly, LOL.....

Matt Rowe
06-12-2006, 07:01 PM
But hardware items are replaceble. The stock pieces are heim joints, just cheap plastic ones that do not hold up to the ravages of time. So replacing a hardware item falls into the category of IISYCTYBWC. Isn&#39;t the world of liberal rules interpretation wonderful. And besides if you look at the way the car is classed he doesn&#39;t stand a chance of winning out of the box or after 5 years of constant development.

Andy Bettencourt
06-12-2006, 10:10 PM
Remember Mr Amy, just because some are doing it, doesn&#39;t make it right. This is NOT part of the new world order...

Ugh.

AB

RacerBill
06-12-2006, 11:00 PM
Well, we will have to see how this all plays out. I have ordered new original rods (with the plastic sockets) from Chrysler. After three weeks, the only parts that they have been able to find are nuts, and bushings for the pivots. Original parts may just not be available any more.

RacerBill
07-05-2006, 12:03 AM
OK, the car rolled onto and off of the trailer after a weekend at Mid-Ohio. Sure wish I could have gotten two finishes, but one will have to do.

The good! Shift linkage problems are history. that part of the car worked like a charm. Steering - seemed to be fine. Got very little understeer all weekend. If anything, it seemed a little tail happy. I guess that&#39;s a good sign.

The bad: Both days, she had bad fuel issues. Seemed to be worse on left hand turns - the engine seemed to want to stop. Wish I could go for a Weber, but may just have to go for a rebuilt 6520.

It was fun.

More story to follow!

RacerBill
07-11-2006, 12:34 PM
[attachmentid=512]OK, Here&#39;s a low res pic from Mid-Ohio

RacerBill
07-31-2006, 11:30 AM
Update on fuel issues:

I decided to take off the air cleaner and check the carb, vacume lines, etc. After consulting several different books, I think I finally got the vacume lines connected properly. But the big light bulb was a nipple on the top of the intake manifold that was supposed to have a 1/2 hose on it. Found that hose, reattached it and secured it with a hose clamp. With that large a hole in the manifold, I don&#39;t know how it was able to suck enough gas into the cylinders to fire at all.

With everything buttoned back up, I fired it up - had to back off the idle since it was set to keep the engine running running very lean. The engine runs much smoother now, without having to fool around with the accelerator. I let it run at idle for about 15 minutes and had no heat issues, even with standing still and no air flow through the radiator.

If everything goes ok, I&#39;ll take it down to Columbus Motor Speedway for an open test session, just to see how that engine takes loads.

Anyway, we got one finish in this year, and we are not last in the Area 4 Championship.