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zooracer
03-08-2005, 04:28 PM
I have a suzuki swift GTi in ITB and have found the car to be running lean, after inspection of spark plugs.
Now I have been told of a few solutions.
First is an external adjustable fuel regulator. These tend to run in the 200 dollar range. Not certain on how to install it, as I've been told everything from disabling the stock one (no idea how to do that...) to running it inline with the stock one. On my supercharged miata the Jackson racing regulator is plumbed after the stock on, so the fuel flows thru the stock one, to the jackson racing reg., then to the injectors.
I have also been told I could fool the computer with a coolant sensor modification, which will richen the mixture.
Any ideas on the best way to go about this?
Might just have to take it to the Baucom's at Sports Car Authority and let them have a look see.
matt

chuck baader
03-08-2005, 05:10 PM
The Swift is a fuel rail motor that has a presure regulator either attached or close to the rail. Check Summit or Jegs for an Aeromotive regulator, the A1000-6 will do the trick...then take it to the dyno for adjustment. BTW, be sure to buy the fittings as the regulator uses special fittings to change to dash lines. Hope that helps. Chuck

Joe Harlan
03-08-2005, 05:18 PM
If it is a little metal can type and you have a gauge, take a small hammer and flat punch. Hit it right in the center of the diaphragm, Little adjustments here cause it can't be undone. Sounds silly but have done this for years on street and race cars.

zooracer
03-08-2005, 07:10 PM
Yes, I was told about using a punch on the end of the regulator to increase the spring pressure.
I kinda figured I shouldnt skimp in this area of the car, but I really dont know much about this sort of thing, so maybe this quick fix is okay?
Yes , the stock reg. is connected to the end of the fuel rail (just like my miata), and even looks like the miata's.
Just like the miata, two hard lines come up from the firewall, change to soft line for several inches, then go to hard lines at the fuel rail (return and feed...)
Can I punch it while on the car? Or do I really need to remove it...
thx for the responses,
matt

Joe Harlan
03-08-2005, 07:50 PM
While it may seam like a ghetto fix it really does work if done with small adjustments.

racer-025
03-08-2005, 08:15 PM
Before I would do anything, I'd put it on a scope and check to see if any codes come up. You want to make sure everything is working properly before you start modifying things. What have you changed on the engine from stock?

BTW, Matt, I've sold all my Swift stuff and the car ended up in Bakersfield, CA.

Here is a link to a fellow in Ontario that has 2 extremely well built Suzuki Swifts. You might want to talk to him.

http://racing.kos.net/soloforums/showthrea...=&threadid=4236 (http://racing.kos.net/soloforums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4236)


[This message has been edited by racer-025 (edited March 08, 2005).]

zooracer
03-08-2005, 11:25 PM
Yes, I had seen he was selling the two road racing swifts. They are impressive cars, I guess would be in production here in the states...
Of course, I can barely afford ITB at this point...
I did finally get a reply from Ralph Radhay, who races an ITB swift in florida. He said I can order a different coolant sensor which will make it run richer. Said the engine light will stay on, but that is okay.
Said he made some HP too.
The only performance mods are a homemade air intake and SSGTI headers. It was a junkyard motor with 75K miles.
I dont have a working engine check light, so I cant check for trouble codes...
matt